Luke Smalley (June 6, 1955 – May 17, 2009) was an American photographer known for capturing boys in adolescence and as a talented art director famous for creating "playful images that explored the intersections between fashion and masculinity". His work, which pairs a coolly minimalist aesthetic with a retro nostalgia, centers around his tongue-in-cheek take on the journey for truth inside the lives of small town youth, especially athletic, all-American, young men. Many of the photographs are homoerotic, yet sexually ambivalent and never perverse. Images from his earlier collections were inspired by fitness manuals and yearbooks . This is not surprising since Smalley graduated with a degree in sports medicine from

Pepperdine University Pepperdine University () is a private university, private Christianity, Christian research university affiliated with the Churches of Christ, with its main campus in Los Angeles County, California, United States. Pepperdine's main campus consists ...

and worked for a number of years as a model and personal trainer. Smalley shot his artistic portraits in his home state of Pennsylvania. He used real high school athletes as models, who engaged in unusual competitions reinvented by the photographer, who also designed and crafted some of the outfits and equipments.

Early life

Smalley was born on June 6, 1955, to parents Thomas J. Smalley Sr. and Julia Svatosky Smalley in

Pennsylvania Pennsylvania, officially the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, is a U.S. state, state spanning the Mid-Atlantic (United States), Mid-Atlantic, Northeastern United States, Northeastern, Appalachian, and Great Lakes region, Great Lakes regions o ...

. He graduated from Rice Avenue Union High School in 1973. Following high school, he attended

Hunter College Hunter College is a public university in New York City, United States. It is one of the constituent colleges of the City University of New York and offers studies in more than one hundred undergraduate and postgraduate fields across five schools ...

and

Northeastern University Northeastern University (NU or NEU) is a private university, private research university with its main campus in Boston, Massachusetts, United States. It was founded by the Boston Young Men's Christian Association in 1898 as an all-male instit ...

, before graduating with a degree in sports medicine from

. For the next several years, he worked as a model and personal trainer in California. His true love was photography, and he eventually became an independent

Fine art In European academic traditions, fine art (or, fine arts) is made primarily for aesthetics or creative expression, distinguishing it from popular art, decorative art or applied art, which also either serve some practical function (such as ...

and

commercial Commercial may refer to: * (adjective for) commerce, a system of voluntary exchange of products and services ** (adjective for) trade, the trading of something of economic value such as goods, services, information or money * a dose of advertising ...

photographer.

Work

Smalley attained some notoriety outside of leading men's-wear image makers, and his commercial photography has appeared in both mainstream and niche market publications. He frequently collaborated and was friends with British designer Kim Jones. His art photography frequently featured the northwestern Pennsylvania town he called home until his death. He had gallery showings on both coasts and had four books of his photography published. After Smalley's sudden death the Smalley Partnership was formed for the purpose of continuing Luke Smalley's photographic legacy. The art gallery ClampArt, in the Chelsea district of New York City, currently represents the efforts of the Smalley Partnership
ClampArt

Clients

Smalley's photographs were used by: * ''

America The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 U.S. state, states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 ...

'' *

American Eagle Outfitters American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. is an American clothing and accessories retailer headquartered at SouthSide Works in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. It was founded in 1977 by brothers Jerry and Mark Silverman as a subsidiary of Retail Ventures, Inc ...

* ''

The New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''NYT'') is an American daily newspaper based in New York City. ''The New York Times'' covers domestic, national, and international news, and publishes opinion pieces, investigative reports, and reviews. As one of ...

'' and ''T: The New York Times Style Magazine'' * ''

Tokion ''Tokion'' is a Japanese-based magazine covering art, fashion, music and film first published in Japan in 1996, followed by United States, UK, and Hong Kong editions. The magazine's makers also produced the annual Creativity Now Conference, a wee ...

'' They also appeared in several progressive men's fashion publications: * ''

Another Man ''Another Man'' is an international fashion and culture menswear biannual magazine. It was launched in 2005 by Jefferson Hack. Ben Cobb is Editor-In-Chief of ''Another Man,'' having joined the title as Editor in 2010. He became Editor-in-Chief ...

'' * ''

Arena Homme + ''Arena Homme +'' is a fashion magazine for men published biannually since 1994. The first issue was published in Spring/Summer 1994. ''Premiere Issues''. Retrieved 29 January 2016. The founding editor-in-chief is Kathryn Flett. It is published b ...

'' * '' Dazed & Confused'' * ''Ten'' Magazine * '' V'' and '' VMAN'' magazines * '' Vogue Hommes International''

Bibliography

* ** According to Smalley, "The photographs in the gymnasium were taken primarily in western Pennsylvania between 1988 and 2000, though many people looking at them think their quirky compositions date them from the turn of the 20th century. When editing and sequencing the book, I wanted to resist any antique design conceits and, instead, present the images in a clean and direct manner." ** His first book, ''Gymnasium'' was selected by

AIGA The American Institute of Graphic Arts (AIGA) is a professional organization for design. Its members practice all forms of communication design, including graphic design, typography, interaction design, user experience, branding and identity. The ...

as one of the bes
50 Books/50 Covers
in 2001. ** He used real athletes from various

and

Ohio Ohio ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. It borders Lake Erie to the north, Pennsylvania to the east, West Virginia to the southeast, Kentucky to the southwest, Indiana to the ...

high schools to act out a series of scenarios. The young athletes wore period outfits, used vintage equipment, and competed in unique competitions. Smalley crafted some of the outfits and equipment, taking care to design them with an authentic antique feel. * ** British menswear designer, Kim Jones, remembers collaborating with Smalley: "I remember shooting in an old Amish village with Luke during the winter — I think it must have been 15 degrees. The model, Ambrose Olsen, was freezing and shaking in the cold — he later told me that he wouldn’t have done it for anyone else except Luke because he was such a great guy." He continued, "Luke cared so much about everything in his work that everyone involved wanted to make anything happen for him. He was such a great talent who was underestimated by many, but I’m sure future generations will appreciate everything he’s done." * ** Smalley revisits themes of adolescent growing pains acted out under the guise of earnest athleticism. He painstakingly coordinated the creation of the work, often making his own athletic equipment, props, and costumes. Instead of the anachronistic, turn-of-the-century black-and-white photos in ''Gymnasium'', this book features all new color photos taken in northwestern Pennsylvania. * ** According to the publisher, "Girls left behind. Guys making bad choices. In his third book… photographer Luke Smalley continues his journey for truth inside the lives of small town youth. This poignant photo novella tells the story of consequence when innocence takes a wrong turn. Girls getting ready, girls getting anxious. Boys bored. Wide-eyed, raw off the football field. As in his past volumes, humor pervades: the sobering boys' plight is juxtaposed at Smalley's bemusement of the girls' preoccupation of what to wear."

Exhibitions

* 2002, Wessel + O’Connor Gallery, New York City, ''Gymnasium'' * November 29, 2007 – February 2, 2008, Wessel + O’Connor Gallery,

Brooklyn Brooklyn is a Boroughs of New York City, borough of New York City located at the westernmost end of Long Island in the New York (state), State of New York. Formerly an independent city, the borough is coextensive with Kings County, one of twelv ...

New York New York most commonly refers to: * New York (state), a state in the northeastern United States * New York City, the most populous city in the United States, located in the state of New York New York may also refer to: Places United Kingdom * ...

, ''Exercise at Home'' * October 25–November 6, 2008, The David Gallery, Los Angeles, California, ''Exercise at Home'' * November 5 - December 19, 2009, ClampArt, New York City, ''Sunday Drive: A Memorial Exhibition'' * April 2 – May 9, 2015, ClampArt, New York City, ''Luke Smalley: Retrospective'' * November 29, 2018 – January 19, 2019, ClampArt, New York City, ''Luke Smalley: Exercise at Home''

Death

Smalley died unexpectedly on Sunday, May 17. 2009 at the age of 53. He is survived by two sisters, three brothers, four nieces, and four nephews. He is buried in St. John the Evangelist Catholic Church cemetery in Girard, Pennsylvania.