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Luis Estévez (c. 1930 – November 28, 2014) was a Cuban-born American fashion designer and costume designer, active between 1951 until 1997. According to the ''
New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'', "Luis Estevez always did make a lady look like a vamp", known for his high slits, slinky dresses and dramatic necklines. Estévez was a founding member of
Council of Fashion Designers of America The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA), founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert, and headquartered in Manhattan, is a not-for-profit trade association comprising a membership of over 450 American fashion and accessory ...
(CFDA).


Early life and education

Luis Estévez de Gálvez was born in c.1930 in
Havana Havana (; Spanish: ''La Habana'' ) is the capital and largest city of Cuba. The heart of the La Habana Province, Havana is the country's main port and commercial center.
,
Cuba Cuba ( , ), officially the Republic of Cuba ( es, República de Cuba, links=no ), is an island country comprising the island of Cuba, as well as Isla de la Juventud and several minor archipelagos. Cuba is located where the northern Caribbea ...
to a wealthy Spanish-Cuban family. His father, Luis “Buffalo” Estévez, was an engineer, his mother, Gloria Cortínas Benítez de Gálvez, was a
socialite A socialite is a person from a wealthy and (possibly) aristocratic background, who is prominent in high society. A socialite generally spends a significant amount of time attending various fashionable social gatherings, instead of having tradit ...
, and his grandfather was a Cuban sugar magnate. His family had many generations of distinguished relatives and were descend from the De Gálvez family, whom the city of
Galveston Galveston ( ) is a coastal resort city and port off the Southeast Texas coast on Galveston Island and Pelican Island in the U.S. state of Texas. The community of , with a population of 47,743 in 2010, is the county seat of surrounding Gal ...
,
Texas Texas (, ; Spanish language, Spanish: ''Texas'', ''Tejas'') is a state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States. At 268,596 square miles (695,662 km2), and with more than 29.1 million residents in 2 ...
was named and from a founder of the city of
St. Augustine Augustine of Hippo ( , ; la, Aurelius Augustinus Hipponensis; 13 November 354 – 28 August 430), also known as Saint Augustine, was a theologian and philosopher of Berber origin and the bishop of Hippo Regius in Numidia, Roman North Afri ...
. His mother frequently had American magazines and adored French haute couture; she encouraged and influenced his love of fashion and drawing. At age 10, Estévez was sent to
Pennsylvania Pennsylvania (; (Pennsylvania Dutch: )), officially the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, is a state spanning the Mid-Atlantic, Northeastern, Appalachian, and Great Lakes regions of the United States. It borders Delaware to its southeast, Ma ...
to live with his aunt and her family because multiple kidnapping attempts were made on him in Cuba. He attended college-preparatory school in
Delaware Delaware ( ) is a state in the Mid-Atlantic region of the United States, bordering Maryland to its south and west; Pennsylvania to its north; and New Jersey and the Atlantic Ocean to its east. The state takes its name from the adjacen ...
at
Sanford School The Sanford School is a private school for co-ed students in PreK through high school, located in Hockessin, Delaware. Originally known as "Sunny Hills School", it was founded on September 23, 1930, by Sanford and Ellen Sawin, in memory of their ...
, graduating in 1947. He went on to study architecture at the
University of Havana The University of Havana or (UH, ''Universidad de La Habana'') is a university located in the Vedado district of Havana, the capital of the Republic of Cuba. Founded on January 5, 1728, the university is the oldest in Cuba, and one of the firs ...
, and upon leaving college, moved to New York City. He never graduated from the University of Havana. In New York City Estévez started to focus on fashion and he attended the Traphagen School of Fashion, graduating in 1951 in costume design. While in school he got a job in window display at the
Lord & Taylor Lord & Taylor was the oldest brick and mortar department store in the United States, in business from 1826 to 2020. The brand was purchased during former owner Le Tote's 2020 liquidation bankruptcy and relaunched by new owner, Saadia Group, as a ...
department store; the job did not pay much but it gave him experience. His mother, who divorced his father, financially supported Estévez, which allowed him to enjoy New York nightlife and meet New York society, including at the nightclub El Morocco. He started dating Bahamian-American model Betty Dew at this time; she was a regular guest at the El Morocco nightclub. Lilly Daché, milliner and fashion designer, hired Estévez to create a few designs while he was in school but he realized he was not yet experienced enough in his career and quit that job.


Career

Estévez and his girlfriend Dew took a 1951 boat trip to France together, where he befriended more established designers including
Hubert de Givenchy Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy (; 21 February 1927 – 10 March 2018) was a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded the luxury fashion and perfume house of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the p ...
,
Jacques Fath Jacques Fath (6 September 1912 in Maisons-Laffitte, France – 13 November 1954 in Paris, France) was a French fashion designer who was considered one of the three dominant influences on postwar haute couture, the others being Christian Dior and ...
, and French Vogue editor
Françoise de Langlade Françoise de Langlade (1921 – June 17, 1983) was a magazine editor with Conde Nast Publications and the wife of fashion designer Oscar de la Renta. He got an internship at the house of
Jean Patou Jean Patou (; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Early life Patou was born in Paris, France in 1887. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his ...
and the couple stayed in France for one year. In 1952, Estévez returned to New York City and joined Pat Hartley, a ready-to-wear fashion company. By 1955, Estévez launched his own label ''Grenelle-Estévez'' and a ready-to-wear collection with Fred Greenberg, Robert Greenberg and Ben Papell. His signature-style clothing was form-fitting cocktail and evening dresses designed with figure flattering shape, unusual angles, and noticeable necklines. His ready-to-wear clothing was moderately priced when compared to haute couture clothing, making it easy to sell in stores. One year later in 1956, at age 26, he became the youngest designer to win the
Coty Award The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards (awarded 1943–1984) were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty, Inc. to promote and celebrate American fashion, and encourage design during the Second World War. In 1985, the Coty A ...
. Estévez was very popular, and often had celebrities in his social circles. He and Dew built a hillside home in
Acapulco Acapulco de Juárez (), commonly called Acapulco ( , also , nah, Acapolco), is a city and major seaport in the state of Guerrero on the Pacific Coast of Mexico, south of Mexico City. Acapulco is located on a deep, semicircular bay and has ...
,
Mexico Mexico ( Spanish: México), officially the United Mexican States, is a country in the southern portion of North America. It is bordered to the north by the United States; to the south and west by the Pacific Ocean; to the southeast by Guate ...
in 1957, named Le Cumbre. The Acapulco home was a popular party choice in the 1960s for celebrities, politicians, and socialites. In 1960, Estévez created a black dress based on the
John Singer Sargent John Singer Sargent (; January 12, 1856 – April 14, 1925) was an American expatriate artist, considered the "leading portrait painter of his generation" for his evocations of Edwardian-era luxury. He created roughly 900 oil paintings and mor ...
painting ''
Portrait of Madame X ''Madame X'' or ''Portrait of Madame X'' is a portrait painting by John Singer Sargent of a young socialite, Virginie Amélie Avegno Gautreau, wife of the French banker Pierre Gautreau. ''Madame X'' was painted not as a commission, but at the re ...
'' (1884). Dina Merrill modeled the Estévez dress for photographer
Milton H. Greene Milton H. Greene (March 14, 1922 – August 8, 1985) was an American fashion and celebrity photographer and film and television producer, best known for his photo shoots with Marilyn Monroe. Early life Greene was born Milton H. Greengold ...
published in ''Life'' magazine on 11 January 1960. In the 1960s and 1970s Estévez designed swimwear for Sea Darlings of California, a Los Angeles-based company. In 1965, he moved to the
Hollywood Hills The Hollywood Hills are a residential neighborhood in the central region of Los Angeles, California. Geography The Hollywood Hills straddle the Cahuenga Pass within the Santa Monica Mountains. The neighborhood touches Studio City, Unive ...
in California, and began working more closely with Hollywood actors and actresses. By 1972, he was designing under a private label with actress
Eva Gabor Eva Gabor ( ; February 11, 1919 – July 4, 1995) was a Hungarian-American actress, businesswoman, singer, and socialite. She voiced Duchess and Miss Bianca in the animated Disney Classics, ''The Aristocats'' (1970), '' The Rescuers'' (1977), ...
and for
Universal Studios Universal Pictures (legally Universal City Studios LLC, also known as Universal Studios, or simply Universal; common metonym: Uni, and formerly named Universal Film Manufacturing Company and Universal-International Pictures Inc.) is an Americ ...
designing costumes for film and television. He dressed many important people in his career including
Betty Ford Elizabeth Anne Ford (; formerly Warren; April 8, 1918 – July 8, 2011) was the first lady of the United States from 1974 to 1977, as the wife of President Gerald Ford. As first lady, she was active in social policy and set a precedent as a pol ...
, Lynda Bird Johnson,
Nancy Reagan Nancy Davis Reagan (; born Anne Frances Robbins; July 6, 1921 – March 6, 2016) was an American film actress and First Lady of the United States from 1981 to 1989. She was the second wife of president Ronald Reagan. Reagan was born in Ne ...
, Eva Gabor,
Marlene Dietrich Marie Magdalene "Marlene" DietrichBorn as Maria Magdalena, not Marie Magdalene, according to Dietrich's biography by her daughter, Maria Riva ; however Dietrich's biography by Charlotte Chandler cites "Marie Magdalene" as her birth name . (, ; ...
,
Grace Kelly Grace Patricia Kelly (November 12, 1929 – September 14, 1982) was an American actress who, after starring in several significant films in the early to mid-1950s, became Princess of Monaco by marrying Prince Rainier III in April 1956. Kell ...
,
Zsa Zsa Gabor Zsa Zsa Gabor (, ; born Sári Gábor ; February 6, 1917 – December 18, 2016) was a Hungarian-American socialite and actress. Her sisters were actresses Eva and Magda Gabor. Gabor competed in the 1933 Miss Hungary pageant, where she ...
,
Natalie Wood Natalie Wood ( Zacharenko; July 20, 1938 – November 29, 1981) was an American actress who began her career in film as a child and successfully transitioned to young adult roles. Wood started acting at age four and was given a co-starring r ...
,
Carol Channing Carol Elaine Channing (January 31, 1921 – January 15, 2019) was an American actress, singer, dancer and comedian who starred in Broadway theatre, Broadway and film musicals. Her characters usually had a fervent expressiveness and an easily id ...
, among others. His label ''Estévez'' closed in 1968, and he went into working freelance. In the 1970s Estévez also designed men's clothing for Jaymar. In 1975, Estévez met with Betty Ford in
Palm Springs Palm Springs (Cahuilla: ''Séc-he'') is a desert resort city in Riverside County, California, United States, within the Colorado Desert's Coachella Valley. The city covers approximately , making it the largest city in Riverside County by lan ...
, while she was serving as the First Lady of the United States. Ford and Estévez discussed the creation of a line of clothing for Ford that could later be released as part of his own label, after she wore it. He created many original pieces for Ford, which were publicly worn at many formal events. He primarily worked with private clients starting in 1977. In the 1980s he opened the Estévez boutique on
Melrose Place ''Melrose Place'' is an American prime time television soap opera that aired on Fox from July 8, 1992, to May 24, 1999, for seven seasons. The show follows the lives of a group of young adults living in an apartment complex on Melrose Place, in ...
in Los Angeles, partnering with Allan Carr. The boutique remained open until 1992. After the closure of the boutique he moved to Miami, Florida. In 1996, Estévez returned to California in Montecito in
Santa Barbara County Santa Barbara County, California, officially the County of Santa Barbara, is located in Southern California. As of the 2020 census, the population was 448,229. The county seat is Santa Barbara, and the largest city is Santa Maria. Santa Barba ...
. With a new set of investors, he opened a new boutique which closed within one year due to a legal dispute with the investors. That same year in 1997, he retired from fashion design.


Death and legacy

Estévez died 28 November 2014 in
Miami Miami ( ), officially the City of Miami, known as "the 305", "The Magic City", and "Gateway to the Americas", is a coastal metropolis and the county seat of Miami-Dade County in South Florida, United States. With a population of 442,241 at th ...
, Florida. Estévez's work is featured in various public museum collections including the
Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York City, colloquially "the Met", is the largest art museum in the Americas. Its permanent collection contains over two million works, divided among 17 curatorial departments. The main building at 100 ...
,
Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum The Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum is the presidential museum and burial place of Gerald Ford, the 38th president of the United States (1974–1977), and his wife Betty Ford. It is located near the Pew Campus of Grand Valley State Universi ...
,
Rhode Island School of Design Museum The Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design (RISD Museum) is an art museum integrated with the Rhode Island School of Design, in Providence, Rhode Island, US. The museum was co-founded with the school in 1877, and still shares multiple build ...
,
Library of Congress The Library of Congress (LOC) is the research library that officially serves the United States Congress and is the ''de facto'' national library of the United States. It is the oldest federal cultural institution in the country. The librar ...
, among others. Estévez's work is said to have influenced designers
Michael Kors Michael David Kors (born Karl Anderson Jr. August 9, 1959) is an American fashion designer. He is the chief creative officer of his brand, Michael Kors, which sells men's and women's ready-to-wear, accessories, watches, jewelry, footwear, and ...
and Zac Posen. In 2019, Estévez's work was featured in a group exhibition ''The Traphagen School: Fostering American Fashion'' at the Museum at FIT in New York City.


Personal life

In 1953, Estévez married Bahamian-American model Betty Dew. Additionally, he had many affairs with both men and women despite being married to Dew, and was known to have had affairs with fashion designer Halston and actress
Ethel Merman Ethel Merman (born Ethel Agnes Zimmermann, January 16, 1908 – February 15, 1984) was an American actress and singer, known for her distinctive, powerful voice, and for leading roles in musical theatre.Obituary '' Variety'', February 22, 1984. ...
. He was open about being
bisexual Bisexuality is a romantic or sexual attraction or behavior toward both males and females, or to more than one gender. It may also be defined to include romantic or sexual attraction to people regardless of their sex or gender identity, wh ...
. Estévez and Dew divorced in 1984, after several years of living apart many months out of the year. For two years in the 1980s, he was married to Blanche “Skip” Gonzales Hathaway. She was the widow of film director
Henry Hathaway Henry Hathaway (March 13, 1898 – February 11, 1985) was an American film director and producer. He is best known as a director of Westerns, especially starring Randolph Scott and John Wayne. He directed Gary Cooper in seven films. Backgro ...
.


Awards

* 1956 – Winnies, Coty Award * 1990 – Hispanic Designers’, Lifetime Achievement Award, Hispanic Designers Gala.


References


External links

*
Luis Estevez profile
online at the
National Museum of American History The National Museum of American History: Kenneth E. Behring Center collects, preserves, and displays the heritage of the United States in the areas of social, political, cultural, scientific, and military history. Among the items on display is t ...
,
Smithsonian Institution The Smithsonian Institution ( ), or simply the Smithsonian, is a group of museums and education and research centers, the largest such complex in the world, created by the U.S. government "for the increase and diffusion of knowledge". Founded ...
{{DEFAULTSORT:Estevez, Luis 1930 births 2014 deaths American people of Cuban descent American fashion designers People from Havana University of Havana alumni Traphagen School of Fashion alumni American costume designers American people of Spanish descent Queer artists Bisexual men LGBT fashion designers LGBT people from Cuba LGBT Hispanic and Latino American people