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Elizabeth Burkner Robbins is an American rock climber, outdoor equipment designer and co-founder of Royal Robbins Inc. In 1967, she became the first woman to climb a Grade VI route when she summitted
Half Dome Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three s ...
's Northwest Face. She and her husband
Royal Robbins Royal Robbins (February 3, 1935 – March 14, 2017) was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing. After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, Robbins went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent o ...
developed Royal Robbins Inc., an outdoor equipment manufacturer and clothing company.


Biography

Elizabeth Burkner grew up in
Modesto, California Modesto ( ; ) is the county seat and largest city of Stanislaus County, California, United States. With a population of 218,069 according to 2022 United States Census Bureau, U.S. Census Bureau estimates, it is the List of cities and towns in Ca ...
. Her father Earl Burkner owned a paint company in Modesto, and she grew up in a middle class household. Elizabeth was an only child.


Climbing

In 1960, Burkner took a break from her studies at
University of California, Berkeley The University of California, Berkeley (UC Berkeley, Berkeley, Cal, or California), is a Public university, public Land-grant university, land-grant research university in Berkeley, California, United States. Founded in 1868 and named after t ...
to work at the
Ahwahnee Hotel The Ahwahnee is a grand hotel in Yosemite National Park, California, on the floor of Yosemite Valley. It was built by the Yosemite Park and Curry Company and opened for business in 1927. The hotel is constructed of steel, stone, concrete, w ...
in
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is a national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service ...
. There, she began learning to rock climb and met Royal Robbins, a well-known mountain climber, in Yosemite’s Camp 4. For the next several years, Liz and Royal would make a number of first ascents across the Yosemite Valley. On November 17, 1963, the couple married in San Francisco. After their honeymoon, Elizabeth and Royal returned to Modesto where Royal learned how to mix paints at Elizabeth's father's paint company. Royal's time at Valley Paints was short lived as he soon yearned to return to climbing. Royal Robbins would later support himself giving climbing lectures and Liz Robbins returned to her father's paint store where she sold paints and coatings in between climbing expeditions. In 1965, the couple moved to Switzerland where Royal worked at the
Leysin American School Leysin American School (also referred to as LAS), founded in 1960 by Fred and Sigrid Ott, is a co-educational private boarding school located in the alpine village of Leysin, Vaud, Switzerland. As of 2024, it is home to 300 students from over 60 ...
and set many first ascents across Europe. In 1967, the couple returned to California and started a climbing school. That year, Liz and Royal summitted
Half Dome Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three s ...
's Northwest Face. In doing so, Liz Robbins became the first woman to successfully complete a Grade VI climbing route. That same year, Liz and Royal made the first ascent of ''Nutcracker Suite'' on Ranger Rock. It is well regarded by climbers as being the first climb in the United States to be completed without pegs or expansion bolts, preventing scarring of the rock. The climb made a strong impression on the Robbinses, who would then advocate for "clean climbing" and leaving a limited environmental impact.


Business

In 1969 Liz and Royal Robbins opened their first outdoor equipment company, Mountain Paraphernalia. The shop opened in the basement of Liz Robbins's father's home in Modesto, California. The company quickly became known among climbers and outdoor enthusiasts for their European imports of climbing boots and English hiking sweaters. While selling climbing and outdoor equipment at Mountain Paraphernalia, Liz Robbins decided to try designing clothing as the types of clothes she was looking for while mountain climbing did not exist. She reached out to a friend, Susie Tompkins Buell for help. Working with Buell's pattern maker, in 1975 Liz Robbins designed her first-ever piece of clothing, the Billy Goat Short. It would go on to become a best seller, and encourage the couple to shift their product line to clothing from outdoor equipment. Liz Robbins became the company's lead designer. The company would change names several times before settling on Royal Robbins Inc. in 1982. The company would go on to produce a number of well regarded items for climbers and mountaineers, and the Robbins family would raise two children together. Royal and Liz Robbins ran the business until 1999 when they appointed Dan Costa as CEO. In 2001, the couple sold their interest in the company to Costa. In 2015, Liz Robbins returned to Royal Robbins Inc. as a technical advisor.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Robbins, Liz Living people Date of birth missing (living people) American mountain climbers 20th-century American women 21st-century American women 20th-century American designers 21st-century American designers American female climbers American rock climbers Sportspeople from Modesto, California