Lipstick Effect
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The lipstick effect is the hypothesis that when facing an
economic crisis A financial crisis is any of a broad variety of situations in which some financial assets suddenly lose a large part of their nominal value. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, many financial crises were associated with banking panics, and ma ...
, consumers will be more willing to buy less costly
luxury goods In economics, a luxury good (or upmarket good) is a good (economics), good for which demand (economics), demand increases more than what is proportional as income rises, so that expenditures on the good become a more significant proportion of ove ...
. The concept was publicized in 2008 when
Leonard Lauder Leonard Alan Lauder (March 19, 1933 – June 14, 2025) was an American billionaire, philanthropist, and art collector. Together, he and his brother, Ronald Lauder, were the sole heirs to The Estée Lauder Companies cosmetics fortune, founded by ...
said that he noted his company's sales of lipstick rose after the 2001 terrorist attacks. The lipstick index is an indicator derived from this hypothetical effect and first was used to describe increased sales of cosmetics during the
early 2000s recession The early 2000s recession was a major decline in economic activity which mainly occurred in developed countries. The recession affected the European Union during 2000 and 2001 and the United States from March to November 2001. The United King ...
. Analysis and subsequent recessions have provided evidence controverting Lauder's claims, though related indices have been proposed for other cosmetics, including
nail polish Nail polish (also known as nail varnish in British English or nail enamel) is a lacquer that can be applied to the human Nail (anatomy), fingernails or toenails to decorate and protect the nail plates. The formula has been revised repeatedly t ...
and
mascara Mascara (, ) is a Cosmetics, cosmetic commonly used to enhance the upper and lower eyelashes. It is used to darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, powder, or cream—the modern mascara p ...
.


Description

The lipstick effect theory contends that consumers will be more willing to buy less costly
luxury goods In economics, a luxury good (or upmarket good) is a good (economics), good for which demand (economics), demand increases more than what is proportional as income rises, so that expenditures on the good become a more significant proportion of ove ...
when they are facing an
economic crisis A financial crisis is any of a broad variety of situations in which some financial assets suddenly lose a large part of their nominal value. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, many financial crises were associated with banking panics, and ma ...
. Instead of buying expensive purses and fur coats, for example, people will buy expensive
cosmetics Cosmetics are substances that are intended for application to the body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance. They are mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either Natural product, natural source ...
, such as high-end brands of
lipstick Lipstick is a cosmetics, cosmetic product used to apply coloration and texture to lips, often made of wax and oil. Different pigments are used to produce color, and minerals such as silica may be used to provide texture. The use of lipstick ...
. The underlying assumption is that a certain portion of consumers will still buy luxury goods even during a bad economy. When consumer trust in the economy is dwindling, consumers will buy goods that have less impact on their available funds. Outside the cosmetics market, consumers might be tempted to purchase other high-end goods such as expensive beers, or smaller, less costly electronic gadgets.


History

Juliet Shor in her book ''The Overspent American'' talks to consumers' purchase of higher-priced, more prestigious lipsticks—specifically
Chanel Chanel ( , ) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by Coco Chanel in Paris. It is privately owned by French brothers, Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, through the holding company Chanel Limited, established in 2018 and headquarte ...
—that are used in public compared to lower-priced, less prestigious brands that are used in the privacy of the bathroom.
Leonard Lauder Leonard Alan Lauder (March 19, 1933 – June 14, 2025) was an American billionaire, philanthropist, and art collector. Together, he and his brother, Ronald Lauder, were the sole heirs to The Estée Lauder Companies cosmetics fortune, founded by ...
, chairman of Estée Lauder, believed that higher lipstick sales indicated unwillingness to buy dresses. Lauder said that after the 2001 terrorist attacks, a "Leading " of lipstick sales across all Estée Lauder brands went up. Across the country, lipstick sales were up 11% in the last quarter of 2001, echoing the 25% increase in cosmetic sales during the
Great Depression The Great Depression was a severe global economic downturn from 1929 to 1939. The period was characterized by high rates of unemployment and poverty, drastic reductions in industrial production and international trade, and widespread bank and ...
. Lauder made the claim that lipstick sales could be an
economic indicator An economic indicator is a statistic about an Economics, economic activity. Economic indicators allow analysis of economic performance and predictions of future performance. One application of economic indicators is the study of business cycles. ...
, in that purchases of cosmetics—
lipstick Lipstick is a cosmetics, cosmetic product used to apply coloration and texture to lips, often made of wax and oil. Different pigments are used to produce color, and minerals such as silica may be used to provide texture. The use of lipstick ...
in particular—tend to be inversely
correlated In statistics, correlation or dependence is any statistical relationship, whether causal or not, between two random variables or bivariate data. Although in the broadest sense, "correlation" may indicate any type of association, in statistic ...
to economic health.


Testing

Subsequent recessions, including the
late-2000s recession The Great Recession was a period of market decline in economies around the world that occurred from late 2007 to mid-2009.
, provided controverting evidence to Lauder's claims, as sales fell with reduced economic activity in that recession. Conversely, lipstick sales have experienced growth during periods of increased economic activity. Usefulness of the lipstick index as an economic indicator is low. The increased sales of cosmetics in 2001 has since been attributed to increased interest in celebrity-designed cosmetics brands.


Legacy

In the 2010s, many media outlets reported that with the rise of nail art as
fad A fad, trend, or craze is any form of collective behavior that develops within a culture, a generation, or social group in which a group of people enthusiastically follow an impulse for a short time period. Fads are objects or behaviors tha ...
in English-speaking countries and as far afield as Japan and the Philippines, nail polish had replaced lipstick as the main affordable indulgence for women in place of bags and shoes during recession, leading to talk of a ''
nail polish Nail polish (also known as nail varnish in British English or nail enamel) is a lacquer that can be applied to the human Nail (anatomy), fingernails or toenails to decorate and protect the nail plates. The formula has been revised repeatedly t ...
index''. Similar sentiment was noted during the
coronavirus pandemic The COVID-19 pandemic (also known as the coronavirus pandemic and COVID pandemic), caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2), began with an disease outbreak, outbreak of COVID-19 in Wuhan, China, in December ...
, when the mandated use of face masks to prevent the spread of the disease resulted in an increase of eye makeup purchases, suggesting a ''
mascara Mascara (, ) is a Cosmetics, cosmetic commonly used to enhance the upper and lower eyelashes. It is used to darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, powder, or cream—the modern mascara p ...
index''.{{Cite web , last=Scott , first=Fiona Sinclair , date=6 May 2020 , title=Our grooming habits are changing , url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/beauty-makeup-shopping-coronavirus/index.html , access-date=2020-05-11 , website=CNN , language=en


References

Economics effects Cosmetics Lipstick