Leopoldo Gasparotto
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Leopoldo Gasparotto, better known as Poldo Gasparotto (30 December 1902 – 22 June 1944) was an Italian mountaineer and Resistance leader during
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
.


Biography

The son of
Luigi Gasparotto Luigi Gasparotto (31 May 1873 – 29 June 1954) was an Italian lawyer and politician. He served several times as a government minister and was one of the founders of the Labour Democratic Party. He was also president of Fiera Milano. Biograp ...
and Maria Biglia, he was born in
Milan Milan ( , , ; ) is a city in northern Italy, regional capital of Lombardy, the largest city in Italy by urban area and the List of cities in Italy, second-most-populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of nea ...
into a
Friulian Friulian may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to the Friuli region in northeast Italy. * Sometimes, by improper extension, something of, from, or related to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia Friuli-Venezia Giulia () is one of the 20 regions o ...
family of progressive ideas; before the advent of
Fascism Fascism ( ) is a far-right, authoritarian, and ultranationalist political ideology and movement. It is characterized by a dictatorial leader, centralized autocracy, militarism, forcible suppression of opposition, belief in a natural social hie ...
his father had been deputy and minister in the
Bonomi I Cabinet The Bonomi I government of Italy held office from 4 July 1921 until 26 February 1922, a total of 237 days, or 7 months and 22 days. Government parties The government was composed by the following parties: Composition References {{Governme ...
with the Italian Democratic Social Party. After graduating in law at the
University of Milan The University of Milan (; ), officially abbreviated as UNIMI, or colloquially referred to as La Statale ("the State niversity), is a public university, public research university in Milan, Italy. It is one of the largest universities in Eu ...
, he carried out his
military service Military service is service by an individual or group in an army or other militia, air forces, and naval forces, whether as a chosen job (volunteer military, volunteer) or as a result of an involuntary draft (conscription). Few nations, such ...
in the
mountain artillery Mountain guns are artillery pieces designed for mountain warfare and other areas where wheeled transport is not possible. They are generally capable of being taken apart to make smaller loads for transport by horses, humans, mules, tractors, or t ...
, with the rank of
Lieutenant A lieutenant ( , ; abbreviated Lt., Lt, LT, Lieut and similar) is a Junior officer, junior commissioned officer rank in the armed forces of many nations, as well as fire services, emergency medical services, Security agency, security services ...
. A passionate
mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
, he was also appointed an "academic" of the
Italian Alpine Club The Club Alpino Italiano is the senior Italian alpine club which stages climbing competitions, operates alpine huts, marks and maintains paths, and is active in protecting the Alpine environment. It was founded in Turin in 1863 by the then fin ...
(an honor reserved for members who had achieved exceptional mountaineering feats without the help of
mountain guide A mountain guide is a specially trained and experienced professional mountaineer who is certified by local authorities or mountain guide associations. They are considered to be high-level experts in mountaineering, and are hired to instruct or ...
s) and became a mountaineering instructor in the military school of
Aosta Aosta ( , , ; ; , or ; or ) is the principal city of the Aosta Valley, a bilingual Regions of Italy, region in the Italy, Italian Alps, north-northwest of Turin. It is situated near the Italian entrance of the Mont Blanc Tunnel and the G ...
. However, his firm anti-fascist convictions prevented him from rising in rank, as he refused to join either the Fascist University Group or the Fascist union. During the interwar period, Gasparotto worked as a
lawyer A lawyer is a person who is qualified to offer advice about the law, draft legal documents, or represent individuals in legal matters. The exact nature of a lawyer's work varies depending on the legal jurisdiction and the legal system, as w ...
but became known for his role as a creator of new
climbing route A climbing route () is a path by which a Climbing, climber reaches the top of a mountain, a rock face or an ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing-route database. De ...
s in the
Alps The Alps () are some of the highest and most extensive mountain ranges in Europe, stretching approximately across eight Alpine countries (from west to east): Monaco, France, Switzerland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Germany, Austria and Slovenia. ...
, and in 1929 he travelled to the
Caucasus The Caucasus () or Caucasia (), is a region spanning Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It is situated between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, comprising parts of Southern Russia, Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. The Caucasus Mountains, i ...
, where he made the
first ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...
of Mount Giulchi (4,400 meters) and the first ski ascent of
Mount Elbrus Mount Elbrus; ; is the highest mountain in Russia and Europe. It is a dormant stratovolcano rising above sea level, and is the highest volcano in Eurasia, as well as the tenth-most prominent peak in the world. It is situated in the south ...
. In 1933 he made the first solo ascent of the east side of
Mont Blanc Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount E ...
, and in 1934 he explored and climbed in
Greenland Greenland is an autonomous territory in the Danish Realm, Kingdom of Denmark. It is by far the largest geographically of three constituent parts of the kingdom; the other two are metropolitan Denmark and the Faroe Islands. Citizens of Greenlan ...
, discovering the Milano and Roma glaciers and the Savoia peninsula, which he christened with their names. After the
fall of Fascism The Fall of the Fascist regime in Italy, also known in Italy as (, ; ), came as a result of parallel plots led respectively by Count Dino Grandi and King Victor Emmanuel III during the spring and summer of 1943, culminating with a successfu ...
on 25 July 1943, Gasparotto (who had joined the underground
Justice and Freedom In its broadest sense, justice is the idea that individuals should be treated fairly. According to the ''Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy'', the most plausible candidate for a core definition comes from the ''Institutes'' of Justinian, a ...
movement in the 1930s and the Action Party in 1942), along with his father and other Milanese anti-fascists including Alfredo Pizzoni, who acted as spokesman, founded an "Inter-Party Committee" that asked General Vittorio Ruggero, commander of the territorial defense of Milan, to organize the defence of the city against the Germans and to provide weapons to the anti-fascists, offering to fight the Nazis alongside the soldiers. Gasparotto and Pizzoni also planned to establish a "National Guard" made of volunteers that would defend the city. After the proclamation of the
armistice of Cassibile The Armistice of Cassibile ( Italian: ''Armistizio di Cassibile'') was an armistice that was signed on 3 September 1943 by Italy and the Allies, marking the end of hostilities between Italy and the Allies during World War II. It was made public ...
on 8 September, Gasparotto was among the founders of the
National Liberation Committee The National Liberation Committee (, CLN) was a political umbrella organization and the main representative of the Italian resistance movement fighting against the occupying forces of Nazi Germany and the fascist collaborationist forces of the ...
of Milan; along with his father, Pizzoni,
Riccardo Lombardi Riccardo Lombardi (16 August 1901 – 18 September 1984) was an Italian politician. Early life Lombardi was born in Regalbuto, in the province of Enna (now in the province of Catania), in 1901. He studied at the Pennisi College of Acireale. Af ...
and
Girolamo Li Causi Girolamo Li Causi (1 January 1896 – 14 April 1977) was an Italian politician and a leader of the Italian Communist Party who was a prominent figure in the struggle for land reform and against the Mafia in Sicily. He labelled large estates (the ...
, he again requested weapons from General Ruggero, who tried to buy time, and along with
Mario Martinelli Mario Martinelli (12 May 1906 – 21 May 2001) was an Italian resistance member during the Fascist Italy and a conservative politician who was a member of Christian Democracy. He was the undisputed leader of the party in the Como region. He held ...
and others he set up a recruiting center for the National Guard, which in a few hours was able to gather some seven hundred volunteers. General Ruggero, however, was eventually persuaded not to take any action against the Germans, and instead forbade civilians from using weapons, under penalty of death, and banned public gatherings. On 10 September, he informed the members of the National Liberation Committee that his troops would not interfere with the German occupation of the city, which indeed occurred on the following day almost without a shot fired. Gasparotto and the other anti-fascists, left without weapons and without the support of the Army, were forced to go into hiding. After taking his pregnant wife and child to
Switzerland Switzerland, officially the Swiss Confederation, is a landlocked country located in west-central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the east. Switzerland ...
, Gasparotto returned to
Lombardy The Lombardy Region (; ) is an administrative regions of Italy, region of Italy that covers ; it is located in northern Italy and has a population of about 10 million people, constituting more than one-sixth of Italy's population. Lombardy is ...
, where he started to organize partisan groups in the Val Codera and
Val Brembana Val Brembana () is a valley in Lombardy, Northern Italy. It takes its name from the river flowing in it, the Brembo. Geography The Bergamo Alps form the valley's northern limits, notably the Tre Signori and Diavolo di Tenda Peaks, while at sou ...
and on the mountains north of
Lake Como Lake Como ( , ) also known as Lario, is a lake of glacial origin in Lombardy, Italy. It has an area of , making it the third-largest lake in Italy, after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore. At over deep, it is one of the deepest lakes in Europe. ...
; before long he became the commander of the
Justice and Freedom In its broadest sense, justice is the idea that individuals should be treated fairly. According to the ''Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy'', the most plausible candidate for a core definition comes from the ''Institutes'' of Justinian, a ...
Brigades of Lombardy, with the ''
nom de guerre A ''nom de guerre'' (, 'war name') is a pseudonym chosen by someone to use when they are involved in a particular activity, especially fighting in a war. In Ancien régime, ''ancien régime'' Kingdom of France, France it would be adopted by each n ...
'' "Rey". On 11 December 1943, however, he was arrested by the Nazis in Milan and imprisoned in the
San Vittore prison San Vittore is a prison located in the city center of Milan, Italy. Its construction started in 1872 and was opened on 7 July 1879. The prison has place for 600 inmates, but it had 1036 prisoners in 2017. History The construction of the new pri ...
in Milan, where he was savagely tortured but revealed nothing of what the Resistance was organizing. From Milan he was transferred to the
Verona Verona ( ; ; or ) is a city on the Adige, River Adige in Veneto, Italy, with 255,131 inhabitants. It is one of the seven provincial capitals of the region, and is the largest city Comune, municipality in the region and in Northeast Italy, nor ...
prison, and then to the Fossoli transit camp, where he was tortured again, with no more success. Even while in the camp, he managed to remain in contact with the Emilian partisans, and began to organize a mass escape of prisoners. However, the plan was discovered by the Nazis, who began to crack down on its suspected organizers. On 22 June 1944 Gasparotto was shot by the Nazis, together with other prisoners, in circumstances that were never fully clarified. He was posthumously awarded the
Gold Medal of Military Valor The Gold Medal of Military Valor () is an Italian medal established on 21 May 1793 by King Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia for deeds of outstanding gallantry in war by junior officers and soldiers. The face of the medal displayed the profile o ...
.Quirinale
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References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Gasparotto, Leopoldo 1902 births 1944 deaths Italian resistance movement members Italian partisans Italian people executed by Nazi Germany Italian anti-fascists Recipients of the Gold Medal of Military Valor Italian mountain climbers People executed by Nazi Germany occupation forces