Lei (Hawaii)
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A lei () is a
garland A garland is a decorative braid, knot or wreath of flowers, leaves, or other material. Garlands can be worn on the head or around the neck, hung on an inanimate object, or laid in a place of cultural or religious importance. In contemporary times ...
or
wreath A wreath () is an assortment of flowers, leaves, fruits, twigs, or various materials that is constructed to form a ring shape. In English-speaking countries, wreaths are used typically as household ornaments, most commonly as an Advent and C ...
common in The Pacific Islands of
Polynesia Polynesia ( , ) is a subregion of Oceania, made up of more than 1,000 islands scattered over the central and southern Pacific Ocean. The indigenous people who inhabit the islands of Polynesia are called Polynesians. They have many things in ...
and also in Asia (
Philippines The Philippines, officially the Republic of the Philippines, is an Archipelagic state, archipelagic country in Southeast Asia. Located in the western Pacific Ocean, it consists of List of islands of the Philippines, 7,641 islands, with a tot ...
). More loosely defined, a lei is any series of objects strung together with the intent to be worn. Lei of various styles are given as gifts to honour people throughout the Pacific, being presented, for example, to visiting dignitaries, graduates, or to loved ones who are departing. Lei gained popularity in the
United States The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 U.S. state, states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 ...
due to the common practice of presenting one to arriving or leaving tourists in Hawaiʻi. Sampaguita leis are also used in the Philippines for religious reasons, typically worn to their Anito or religious statues.


Symbolism

A lei can be given to someone for a variety of reasons. Most commonly, these reasons include peace, love, honor, or friendship. Common events during which leis may be distributed include graduations, weddings, and school dances. Often the composition of a lei determines its significance. A lei made using a hala fruit, for instance, is said to be connected to love, desire, transition, and change.


Materials

A ''lei'' may be composed of a pattern or series of just about anything, but most commonly consists of fresh natural foliage such as flowers, leaves, vines, fern fronds, and seeds. The most commonly used flowers are those of plumerias,
tuberose ''Agave amica'', formerly ''Polianthes tuberosa'', the tuberose, is a perennial plant in the family Asparagaceae, subfamily Agavoideae, extracts of which are used as a Note (perfumery), note in perfumery. Now widely grown as an ornamental plant, ...
, carnations,
orchid Orchids are plants that belong to the family Orchidaceae (), a diverse and widespread group of flowering plants with blooms that are often colourful and fragrant. Orchids are cosmopolitan plants that are found in almost every habitat on Eart ...
s, and '' pikake'', though '' maile'' leaves,
fern The ferns (Polypodiopsida or Polypodiophyta) are a group of vascular plants (plants with xylem and phloem) that reproduce via spores and have neither seeds nor flowers. They differ from mosses by being vascular, i.e., having specialized tissue ...
s, and '' '' leaves are extremely popular as well as traditional among ''hula'' dancers. Other types of ''lei'' may include sea or land shells, fish teeth, bones, feathers, plastic flowers, fabric, paper (including
origami ) is the Japanese art of paper folding. In modern usage, the word "origami" is often used as an inclusive term for all folding practices, regardless of their culture of origin. The goal is to transform a flat square sheet of paper into a ...
and monetary bills), candy, or anything that can be strung together in a series or pattern and worn as a wreath or a necklace. The Hawaiian island of
Niʻihau Niihau (Hawaiian language, Hawaiian: ), anglicized as Niihau ( ), is the seventh largest island in Hawaii and the westernmost of the main islands. It is southwest of Kauai, Kauai across the Channels of the Hawaiian Islands#Kaulakahi Channel, Ka ...
is famous for its lei made of tiny gem-like shells (''pūpū'').


Crafting

The eight most common methods of making ''lei'' are: ''Haku'': three-ply
braid A braid (also referred to as a plait; ) is a complex structure or pattern formed by interlacing three or more strands of flexible material such as textile yarns, wire, or hair. The simplest and most common version is a flat, solid, three-strand ...
incorporating additional materials. A method of making a lei by using a base material, such as softened tree bark or long leaves, and braiding it while adding the decorative plant material into each wrap of the braid. Normally used for flowers and foliage with long pliable petioles or stems. ''Hili'': braid or plait with only one kind of material. Most commonly made from three or more strands of supple vine or fern braided together. ''Hilo'': twist, double helix, intertwine. A method of making a lei by twisting two strands together to form a "rope". The popular and simple ''lei lāī'' ('' '' leaf lei) is made using this method. ''Hipuu / nipuu'': a method of making a ''lei'' by knotting the stems of the decorative plant material and stringing the next stem through the knot. It requires a very long stem on the decorative material. Similar to a daisy chain. ''Humu'' / ''humuhumu'': sew to a backing, usually using a basting stitch. A method of making a ''lei'' by sewing the decorative material to a backing such as ''hala'', ''lai'', paper, or felt. Each successive row of lei material is overlapped on the previous to create a scale-like effect.
Bougainvillea ''Bougainvillea'' ( , ) is a genus of thorny ornamental vines, bushes, and trees belonging to the family, Nyctaginaceae. They are native to Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru, and Argentina. There are between 4 and 22 species in the genus. The i ...
''lei'' and feather hat ''lei'' often are made with this method. ''Kui'': pierce, piercing stitch. A method of making a ''lei'' by sewing or piercing the decorative material with a needle and stringing it onto a thread. This is probably the style with which most Westerners are familiar. This method is commonly used to string flowers such as plumeria,
rose A rose is either a woody perennial plant, perennial flowering plant of the genus ''Rosa'' (), in the family Rosaceae (), or the flower it bears. There are over three hundred Rose species, species and Garden roses, tens of thousands of cultivar ...
,
carnation ''Dianthus caryophyllus'' ( ), commonly known as carnation or clove pink, is a species of ''Dianthus'' native to the Mediterranean Basin, Mediterranean region. Its exact natural range is uncertain due to extensive cultivation over the last 2,00 ...
, etc. ''Wili'': wind, twist, crank, coil. A corkscrew-type twist, as found in a pig's tail and the seed pod of the '' wiliwili'' tree. A method of making a ''lei'' by winding fiber around successive short lengths of the decorative material. Sometimes base materials such as '' hala'', ''lai'', strands of raffia, or even strips of paper are used to make wrapping easier. ''Haku mele'': to braid a song. A song composed out of affection for an individual is considered a ''lei''. ''Lei'' may be open or closed, depending on circumstance. These leis are traditionally constructed using natural foliage.


Historical context

Leis were originally worn by ancient
Polynesians Polynesians are an ethnolinguistic group comprising closely related ethnic groups native to Polynesia, which encompasses the islands within the Polynesian Triangle in the Pacific Ocean. They trace their early prehistoric origins to Island Sout ...
and some
Asian people "Asian people" (sometimes "Asiatic people")United States National Library of Medicine. Medical Subject Headings. 2004. November 17, 200Nlm.nih.gov: ''Asian Continental Ancestry Group'' is also used for categorical purposes. is an umbrella term ...
as part of custom. They were often used by
Native Hawaiians Native Hawaiians (also known as Indigenous Hawaiians, Kānaka Maoli, Aboriginal Hawaiians, or simply Hawaiians; , , , and ) are the Indigenous Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiʻi was settled at least 800 years ago by Polynesian ...
to signify their ranks and royalty. They are also worn as a form of honor to each other and their gods. The religion of the Native Hawaiians as well as the
hula Hula () is a Hawaiian dance form expressing chant (''oli'') or song (Mele (Hawaiian language), ''mele''). It was developed in the Hawaiian Islands by the Native Hawaiians who settled there. The hula dramatizes or portrays the words of the oli ...
custom is tied into the leis that they wore.
Native Hawaiians Native Hawaiians (also known as Indigenous Hawaiians, Kānaka Maoli, Aboriginal Hawaiians, or simply Hawaiians; , , , and ) are the Indigenous Polynesian people of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiʻi was settled at least 800 years ago by Polynesian ...
, who are Polynesian, brought the tradition of lei making and wearing with them to the Hawaiian islands when they arrived. On the first of every May, an event called Lei Day is celebrated to honor the act of lei making and the custom surrounding it.


Customs

There are many customs and protocols associated with the giving, receiving, wearing, storing, and disposing of lei. A story that originated during World War II tells of a hula dancer who dared to give a lei to a US soldier along with a kiss, leading it to become a tradition of lei distribution in modern times. To this day, leis remain a notable aspect of Hawaiian culture. Traditionalists give a lei by bowing slightly and raising it above the heart, allowing the recipient to take it, as raising the hands above another's head, or touching the face or head, is considered disrespectful. By tradition, only open lei are given to a pregnant or nursing woman. If due to allergies or other reasons a person cannot wear a lei which has just been given (for instance a musician who would tangle the lei in their guitar strap), the lei is displayed in a place of honor, such as the musician's music stand or microphone stand. Lei should never be thrown away casually, or tossed into the trash. Traditionally they should be returned to the place they were gathered, or if that is not possible, they should be returned to the earth by hanging in a tree, burying, or burning. A lei represents love, and to throw one away represents throwing away the love of the giver. Many types of lei can be left in a window to dry, allowing the natural fragrance to fill the room. This technique is often used in cars as well.


Polynesia

In
Polynesian culture Polynesian culture is the culture of the indigenous peoples of Polynesia who share common traits in language, customs and society. The development of Polynesian culture is typically divided into four different historical eras: * Exploration and ...
s, a lei is something that is created by someone and given to another with the intent to decorate that person for an emotional reason—usually as a sign of affection. Common reasons include greeting, farewell, affection or
love Love is a feeling of strong attraction and emotional attachment (psychology), attachment to a person, animal, or thing. It is expressed in many forms, encompassing a range of strong and positive emotional and mental states, from the most su ...
, friendship, appreciation, congratulation, recognition, or to otherwise draw attention to the recipient. In
Samoa Samoa, officially the Independent State of Samoa and known until 1997 as Western Samoa, is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania, in the South Pacific Ocean. It consists of two main islands (Savai'i and Upolu), two smaller, inhabited ...
, similar garlands fashioned of entire flowers, buds, seeds, nuts, plant fibers, leaves, ferns, seashells, or flower petals are called "asoa" or "ula", while single flowers or clusters worn in the hair or on the ear are called ''sei''. In
Tahiti Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
such garlands are referred to as "hei" and in the
Cook Islands The Cook Islands is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania in the South Pacific Ocean. It consists of 15 islands whose total land area is approximately . The Cook Islands' Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) covers of ocean. Avarua is its ...
they are called an "ei".
Tonga Tonga, officially the Kingdom of Tonga, is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania. The country has 171 islands, of which 45 are inhabited. Its total surface area is about , scattered over in the southern Pacific Ocean. accordin ...
ns are known for creating unique "kahoa" leis made of chains of flat, crescent or triangular arrangements made of flower petals and leaves sewn onto a leaf or cloth backing. In
Niue Niue is a self-governing island country in free association with New Zealand. It is situated in the South Pacific Ocean and is part of Polynesia, and predominantly inhabited by Polynesians. One of the world's largest coral islands, Niue is c ...
the iconic lei is the kahoa hihi which made from strings of tiny, distinctively yellow snail (hihi) shells. Many modern Polynesian celebrations include the giving and receiving of leis in various forms, including recent adaptations of the flower/plant lei in which candy, folded currency bills, rolls of coinage, and even spam musubi are tied into garlands. "Non-traditional" materials such as cloth ribbon, sequins, cellophane wrap, curling ribbon, and yarn are often used to fashion leis in various forms today.


Hawaiʻi

Among residents of Hawaii, the most popular occasions at which nā lei can be found are birthdays, graduations, weddings, funerals, retirement parties, and bridal showers. It is not uncommon for a high school or college graduate to be seen wearing so many nā lei that they reach their ears or higher. On May 1 each year, Hawaiians celebrate " Lei Day", first conceived in 1927 by poet Don Blanding. At the time, Blanding was employed by the '' Honolulu Star Bulletin'', and he shared his idea with
columnist A columnist is a person who writes for publication in a series, creating an article that usually offers commentary and opinions. Column (periodical), Columns appear in newspapers, magazines and other publications, including blogs. They take the ...
Grace Tower Warren, who came up with the phrase, "May Day is Lei Day". The Hawaiian song, "May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii" was composed in
1927 Events January * January 1 – The British Broadcasting ''Company'' becomes the BBC, British Broadcasting ''Corporation'', when its Royal Charter of incorporation takes effect. John Reith, 1st Baron Reith, John Reith becomes the first ...
by Ruth and Leonard "Red" Hawk. At the 81st Annual Mayor's Lei Day Celebration at Kapiʻolani Park in 2008, Honolulu set the record for the World's Longest Lei. Unofficially, the lei measured in length, more than a mile. Notable Hawaiian artisans of feather lei (lei hulu) making include Mary Louise Kekuewa, and Johanna Drew Cluney. All of the major islands celebrate Lei Day, and each island is symbolized in pageantry by a specific type of lei and a color. *
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
: red, ōhia lehua ('' Metrosideros polymorpha'') *
Maui Maui (; Hawaiian language, Hawaiian: ) is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago, at 727.2 square miles (1,883 km2). It is the List of islands of the United States by area, 17th-largest in the United States. Maui is one of ...
: pink, lokelani ('' Rosa damascena'') * Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina ('' Heliotropium anomalum'' var. ''argentum'') * Lānai: orange, kaunaoa ('' Cuscuta sandwichiana'') *
Oahu Oahu (, , sometimes written Oahu) is the third-largest and most populated island of the Hawaiian Islands and of the U.S. state of Hawaii. The state capital, Honolulu, is on Oahu's southeast coast. The island of Oahu and the uninhabited Northwe ...
: yellow or gold, ilima ('' Sida fallax'') *
Molokai Molokai or Molokai ( or ; Molokaʻi dialect: Morotaʻi ) is the fifth most populated of the eight major islands that make up the Hawaiian Islands archipelago in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is 38 by 10 miles (61 by 16 km) at its g ...
: green, kukui ('' Aleurites moluccanus'') *
Kauai Kauai (), anglicized as Kauai ( or ), is one of the main Hawaiian Islands. It has an area of 562.3 square miles (1,456.4 km2), making it the fourth-largest of the islands and the 21st-largest island in the United States. Kauai lies 73 m ...
: purple, mokihana ('' Melicope anisata'') *
Niihau Niihau (Hawaiian language, Hawaiian: ), anglicized as Niihau ( ), is the seventh largest island in Hawaii and the westernmost of the main islands. It is southwest of Kauai, Kauai across the Channels of the Hawaiian Islands#Kaulakahi Channel, Ka ...
: white, pūpū o Niihau (Niihau shells)


Philippines

The old custom for welcoming guests in the Philippines is by giving a flower necklace made of sampaguita, the country's national flower. However, in the recent years, more affordable options has emerged. This became popular over time as fresh flowers are hard to maintain especially during long events. One of the popular modern option are rosette leis, it is made of
Brocade Brocade () is a class of richly decorative shuttle (weaving), shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian langua ...
cut into necklace of various designs and a center piece flower petals made of satin ribbon.


Gallery

File:Prince Alexander Liholiho with leis.jpg, Prince Alexander Liholiho wearing a lei garland File:Queen Emma wearing lei pupu o Niihau.jpg, Queen Emma is wearing multiple strands of lei pūpū o
Niihau Niihau (Hawaiian language, Hawaiian: ), anglicized as Niihau ( ), is the seventh largest island in Hawaii and the westernmost of the main islands. It is southwest of Kauai, Kauai across the Channels of the Hawaiian Islands#Kaulakahi Channel, Ka ...
File:Hawaiian lei venders, c. 1901.jpg, Hawaiian lei vendors, c. 1901. File:Close up giant parol inspired rosette leis vp leni robredo.jpg, alt=Pink and gold rosette leis for VP Leni, Giant-parol inspired rosette leis given to then Vice President Leni Robredo donated b
Letrato Arts and Crafts Philippines
File:Kukui nut lei.jpg, Young hula dancers wearing kukui nut lei in preparation for a performance on
Molokai Molokai or Molokai ( or ; Molokaʻi dialect: Morotaʻi ) is the fifth most populated of the eight major islands that make up the Hawaiian Islands archipelago in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It is 38 by 10 miles (61 by 16 km) at its g ...
. File:Canoe lei.jpg, Lei of plumeria flowers and umi'umi-o-dole'' (
Spanish moss Spanish moss (''Tillandsia usneoides'') is an Epiphyte, epiphytic flowering plant that often grows upon large trees in tropical and subtropical climates. It is native to much of Mexico, Bermuda, the Bahamas, Central America, South America (as far ...
) on an outrigger canoe at a blessing. File:Flower wreaths (Cook Islands).jpg, Lei for sale in the
Cook Islands The Cook Islands is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania in the South Pacific Ocean. It consists of 15 islands whose total land area is approximately . The Cook Islands' Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) covers of ocean. Avarua is its ...
File:2017 Pacific Islands Forum Opening Ceremony (36867027022).jpg, Delegates at the 2017 Pacific Islands Forum File:Gg-visit-cook-islands-pacific-visits-formal-ariki.jpg, Anand Satyanand and Lady Satyanand wear lei while visiting the Cook Islands File:Gg-visit-cook-islands-pacific-visits-pm-cook.jpg, New Zealand Governor General and members of the
Cook Islands The Cook Islands is an island country in Polynesia, part of Oceania in the South Pacific Ocean. It consists of 15 islands whose total land area is approximately . The Cook Islands' Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) covers of ocean. Avarua is its ...
cabinet wear lei at a meeting. File:Labour-Pacific-Launch-21 (36689535431).jpg, Prime Minister of New Zealand
Jacinda Ardern Dame Jacinda Kate Laurell Ardern ( ; born 26 July 1980) is a New Zealand politician and activist who was the 40th prime minister of New Zealand and Leader of the New Zealand Labour Party, leader of the Labour Party from 2017 to 2023. She was ...
and Pasifika Members of Parliament wear lei at an event. File:Royal Tongan Wedding of 1976.jpg, Royal Tongan Wedding of 1976 File:Pink rosette leis in giant parul design for VP Leni Robredo.jpg, alt=Pink and gold rosette leis, A giant-lantern inspired rosette leis in pink and gold color. Given to Former Vice President Maria Leonor Robredo during the Manalakaran people's rally.


See also

* * * *


References


Sources


"Finding a lei-making class in Hawaii"
Featured article in the ''
Los Angeles Times The ''Los Angeles Times'' is an American Newspaper#Daily, daily newspaper that began publishing in Los Angeles, California, in 1881. Based in the Greater Los Angeles city of El Segundo, California, El Segundo since 2018, it is the List of new ...
''.


Further reading

*


External links

{{Commons category, Lei (Hawaii)
History of the Lei


(archived 8 December 2012)
Lei History
(archived 8 December 2015)
Leis over time


(archived 26 August 2007)
The Feather Lei
A story by Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi about the art of feather lei making in Hawaii. Published by '' Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine'' Nov/Dec 2009 (archived 12 November 2009)
Leis in the Philippines
Hawaii culture History of Oceanian clothing Necklaces Symbols of Hawaii Tourism in Hawaii