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Lao Gan Ma (; also called Laoganma) or Old Godmother is a brand of
chili sauce Chili sauce and chili paste are condiments prepared with chili peppers. Chili sauce may be hot, sweet or a combination thereof, and may differ from hot sauce in that many sweet or mild varieties exist, which is typically lacking in hot sauce ...
s made in
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
.The illiterate woman behind the Laoganma chili sauce excelene salsaempire|Economy|People|WantChinaTimes.com
The product is sold in China and over 30 other countries. Lao Gan Ma is credited with popularizing Chinese
chili oil Chili oil is a condiment made from vegetable oil that has been infused with chili peppers. Different types of oil and hot peppers are used, and other components may also be included. It is commonly used in Chinese cuisine, Mexico, Italy, and el ...
and chili crisp toppings in the Western world, and have inspired many
Chinese-American Chinese Americans are Americans of Chinese ancestry. Chinese Americans constitute a subgroup of East Asian Americans which also constitute a subgroup of Asian Americans. Many Chinese Americans have ancestors from mainland China, Hong Kong ...
chili-based toppings.


History

Tao Huabi is said to have invented the sauce in 1984 and in 1989, she set up a noodle restaurant in Guiyang, Guizhou; when she noticed the popularity of her hot sauces, she converted the restaurant into a specialty shop to sell her sauces, particularly chili oil sauce. In 1994, she borrowed two houses of the CPC Yunguan Village Committee in the Nanming District and employed 40 people to work in her new sauce factory.


Difficulties with counterfeiters

Despite the brand's success upon launch, it struggled with counterfeits with similar packaging in China. They proliferated due to the Chinese government turning down Lao Gan Ma's application to trademark the product. After the trademark request was denied, counterfeit Lao Gan Ma came to prominence. Tao countered these competitors by utilizing a branch of third-party private enterprises to target them. In 2001, the high court of Beijing ruled that other similar products could not use the "Lao Gan Ma" name nor imitate its packaging; Tao received 400,000 yuan in compensation. The trademark application was later approved in 2003 after a lengthy lawsuit against a counterfeiter based in
Hunan Hunan is an inland Provinces of China, province in Central China. Located in the middle reaches of the Yangtze watershed, it borders the Administrative divisions of China, province-level divisions of Hubei to the north, Jiangxi to the east, Gu ...
. Tao Huabi is the owner of the company, and her son Li Guishan became the first president of the company. ''Women of China'' magazine reported in January 2011 that the company's assets were 1.3 billion yuan (US$190 million) and that the company had 2,000 employees at that time. The sauce is produced commercially by Laoganma Special Flavour Foodstuffs Company, which was established in 1997. By 2022, the condiment became more common in locations outside of China.


Recipe dispute

After 2016, Lao Gan Ma's sales in China declined for two years in a row. According to reports, Lao Gan Ma's annual income reached 4.549 billion yuan in 2016, 4.447 billion yuan in 2017, and 4.389 billion yuan in 2018. It was speculated that this was due to a change in the recipe in 2011, where after the company was taken over by Tao's son, the pepper variety was changed from Guizhou Chili to Henan Chili. Guizhou chilies are large in size, full in body, and contain more water, making them more suitable for making hot sauce, lending the sauce an aroma other than the spicy flavor. According to some, Lao Gan Ma lost its unique flavor after the change to Henan chilies. In 2019, Tao Huabi became the manager of the company again, and Lao Gan Ma switched back to Guizhou chili.


Disputes and fraud cases with Tencent

In March 2019, three scammers forged a contract with Lao Gan Ma Company and signed a false contract with
Tencent Tencent Holdings Ltd. ( zh, s=腾讯, p=Téngxùn) is a Chinese Multinational corporation, multinational technology Conglomerate (company), conglomerate and holding company headquartered in Shenzhen. It is one of the highest grossing multimed ...
to defraud Tencent of advertising fees related to video game SpeedDrifters through commercial cooperation. In this contract, Lao Gan Ma needs to pay Tencent the company's promotion fees. Tencent subsequently urged Lao Gan Ma to pay the outstanding debt many times, but was unable to obtain a response. On April 24, 2020, Tencent requested the seizure of a total of 16,240,600 yuan in assets of Lao Gan Ma Company (approximately US$2.26 million). After investigation, Laoganma discovered that someone had used the company's seal to forge contracts to defraud Tencent of promotion fees. On July 1, 2020, all three scammers were arrested and the case was solved. Lao Gan Ma and Tencent announced a settlement over the incident.


Product

A variety of flavors are produced, such as Spicy Chili Crisp, Chili Oil with Black Bean, Fried Chili in Oil, Hot Chili Sauce, and Spicy Bean Paste, among others. The Lao Gan Ma products are based on traditional chili sauces found in
Guizhou cuisine Guizhou cuisine, or Qian cuisine, consists of cooking traditions and dishes from Guizhou Province in southwestern China. Guizhou cuisine shares many features with Sichuan cuisine and Hunan cuisine, especially in bringing the sensation of ...
.


Factories

The town of Changmingzhen,
Guiding County Guiding County () is a county of south-central Guizhou, China. It is under the administration of the Qiannan Buyei and Miao Autonomous Prefecture. The county seat is located in the town of Chengguan. The town of Changmingzhen (昌明镇) has a L ...
,
Qiannan Buyei and Miao Autonomous Prefecture Qiannan Bouyei people, Buyei and Miao people, Miao Autonomous Prefecture ( zh, s=黔南布依族苗族自治州 , p=Qiánnán Bùyīzú Miáozú Zìzhìzhōu; Buyei language, Buyei: ''Qianfnanf Buxqyaix Buxyeeuz ziqziqzouy''; Hmu language, Hmu: ' ...
, has a Lao Gan Ma factory that opened during the
COVID-19 pandemic in China The COVID-19 pandemic in China is part of the worldwide pandemic of coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2). China was the first country to experience an outbreak of the di ...
.


See also

* List of Chinese sauces *
List of condiments A condiment is a supplemental food (such as a sauce or powder) that is added to some foods to impart a particular flavor, enhance their flavor, or, in some cultures, to complement the dish, but that cannot stand alone as a dish. The term ''cond ...
*
List of hot sauces This is a list of commercial hot sauces. Variations on a company's base product are not necessarily common, and are not always included. Scoville heat ratings vary depending on batch. However, many companies do not disclose numeric ratings for ...


References


External links

* {{Hot sauces Brand name condiments Chili sauce and paste Chinese brands Chinese condiments Chinese sauces Condiment companies of China