Kurumdy Mountain is a mountain in the

Pamir Mountains The Pamir Mountains are a Mountain range, range of mountains between Central Asia and South Asia. They are located at a junction with other notable mountains, namely the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun Mountains, Kunlun, Hindu Kush and the Himalaya ...

Central Asia Central Asia is a region of Asia consisting of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. The countries as a group are also colloquially referred to as the "-stans" as all have names ending with the Persian language, Pers ...

, in the eastern section of the

Trans-Alay Range The Trans-Alay or Trans-Alai Range (, ; , , or , ; , ) is the northernmost range of the Pamir Mountain System. Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, the range has been divided between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Geography The Trans-Alay i ...

. Kurumdy (Kurumdy I summit) has an elevation of above

sea level Mean sea level (MSL, often shortened to sea level) is an mean, average surface level of one or more among Earth's coastal Body of water, bodies of water from which heights such as elevation may be measured. The global MSL is a type of vertical ...

and sits on the international border between

Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyzstan, officially the Kyrgyz Republic, is a landlocked country in Central Asia lying in the Tian Shan and Pamir Mountains, Pamir mountain ranges. Bishkek is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Kyrgyzstan, largest city. Kyrgyz ...

and

China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...

Location

Kurumdy is located in the eastern part of the

in the

. It is 22 km east of the Kyzyl-Art Pass. On the northern side flows the East Kyzilsy Glacier with a length of 3,7 km and an area of 69,4 km².Sowjet. Enzyklopedia (russ.): Курумды
/ref> The Kurumdy Glacier with a length of and area of is located on the south side and flows to the west. Since territorial changes in 2011, it has been a three state summit between

and

Tajikistan Tajikistan, officially the Republic of Tajikistan, is a landlocked country in Central Asia. Dushanbe is the capital city, capital and most populous city. Tajikistan borders Afghanistan to the Afghanistan–Tajikistan border, south, Uzbekistan to ...

and

Climbing history

There is some uncertainty concerning the

first ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...

. An ascent by E. Timashev and party from the south apparently reached the main summit in 1932. However, other sources surmise this party only made it to Kurumdu West (6154 m). On October 1, 2001, Michael Mihajlov and Vitaliy Akimov reached the Kurumdy I summit by climbing a major north ridge. This would be the first ascent if the 1932 ascent was only to Kurumdu West. The first

traverse Traverse may refer to: Places * Traverse, Michigan, an unincorporated community * Traverse City, Michigan * Traverse County, Minnesota, a county in Minnesota Other * Traverse (climbing), moving horizontally on a climbing or mountaineering route ...

(East-West, 15 days) was accomplished in the summer of 2015 by the Austrians Markus Gschwendt and Katharina Pfnaisl. This was the second ascent of the main summit (6614 m, 5 August 2015). As well as this, they traversed several other 6000 m peaks, two of which were unclimbed at this time. For the ascent they used a very steep slope east of the Kurumdy east summits (6384 m, Peak Kathi 6259 m). The descent was done by crossing the west summits (6554 m, 6283 m) and then following a north ridge to Golova Orla 5440 m from where they reached the Basecamp (3770 m)

Information for visitors

The area requires a border permit to visit. Approach from the north,

: Airport in

Osh Osh is a city in Kyrgyzstan. Osh or OSH may also refer to: * Osh (food), in Tajik and Uzbek cuisines * Osh (singer) (born 1995), English singer and rapper * OSH, the IATA code for Wittman Regional Airport near Oshkosh, Wisconsin, United States ...

, Taxi to Sari Tash, with Horses to the basecamp on the northern side of the East Kyzilsy Glacier at 3770 m. Water quality can be a problem. Bring a water filter system. There is no easy line to the summit. Success depends on snow conditions and weather.

References

{{Reflist, refs= {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib , author = Kleslo, Michal , year = 2009 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200924000/Asia-Kyrgyzstan-Pamir-Zaalayskiy-Range-Kurumdy-East-North-Rib , access-date = 15 April 2019 NOTE: While Klesno is the author, the 1932 claim is contained within an editor's note. {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Traverse of Kurumdy and Unclimbed Satellite Peaks , author = Gschwendt, Markus , year = 2016 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213636/Traverse-of-Kurumdy-and-Unclimbed-Satellite-Peaks , access-date = 15 April 2019 {{cite journal , journal = Alpine Journal , publisher = Alpine Club , title = Six and Seventhousanders of the TIen Shan and the Pamirs , page = 126 , author1 = Gippenreiter, Yevgeniy , author2 = Shataev, Vladimir , url = http://alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20122-130%20Gippenreiter%20USSR.pdf , access-date = 15 April 2019 {{cite peakbagger , pid=13164 , name=Gora Kurumdy, Tajikistan, accessdate=15 April 2019 Mountains of Kyrgyzstan Mountains of Tajikistan International mountains of Asia Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border Six-thousanders of the Pamir

Location

Climbing history

Information for visitors

See also

References