A ''kontusz'' (, ; ; ; originally from , ) is a type of outer garment worn by the Hungarian and Polish–Lithuanian male

nobility Nobility is a social class found in many societies that have an aristocracy. It is normally appointed by and ranked immediately below royalty. Nobility has often been an estate of the realm with many exclusive functions and characteristics. T ...

. It became popular in the 16th century and came to the

Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth The Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, also referred to as Poland–Lithuania or the First Polish Republic (), was a federation, federative real union between the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland, Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania ...

rule via Hungary from Turkey. In the 17th century, worn over an inner garment ('' żupan''), the ''kontusz'' became a notable element of male Polish national and Zaporozhian Cossack attire. The ''kontusz'' was a long robe, usually reaching to below the knees, with a set of decorative buttons down the front. The sleeves were long and loose, on hot days worn untied, thrown on the back. In winter a fur lining could be attached to the ''kontusz'', or a delia worn over it. The ''kontusz'' was usually of a vivid colour, and the lining was of a contrasting hue. The ''kontusz'' was tied with a long, wide sash called a '' pas kontuszowy''. The ''kontusz'' was more of a decorative garment than a practical one. Tradition states that the first ''kontusze'' were worn by szlachta who captured them from

Ottomans Ottoman may refer to: * Osman I, historically known in English as "Ottoman I", founder of the Ottoman Empire * Osman II, historically known in English as "Ottoman II" * Ottoman Empire The Ottoman Empire (), also called the Turkish Empir ...

to display as loot, which itself possibly originated from Mongol Haiqing which had openings in armpit. Throwing ''kontusz'' sleeves on one's back and stroking one's moustache was considered to be a signal of readiness for a fight. In 1776,

Sejm The Sejm (), officially known as the Sejm of the Republic of Poland (), is the lower house of the bicameralism, bicameral parliament of Poland. The Sejm has been the highest governing body of the Third Polish Republic since the Polish People' ...

deputies from different

voivodeships of Poland A voivodeship ( ; ; plural: ) is the highest-level Administrative divisions of Poland, administrative division of Poland, corresponding to a province in many other countries. The term has been in use since the 14th century and is commonly tran ...

were obliged to wear different coloured żupany and ''kontusze'' denoting their

voivodeship A voivodeship ( ) or voivodate is the area administered by a voivode (governor) in several countries of central and eastern Europe. Voivodeships have existed since medieval times and the area of extent of voivodeship resembles that of a duchy in ...

s. In Poland, the ''kontusz'' was worn mainly by the nobility, but it was also adopted by the Zaporozhian cossacks when Ukraine and Ruthenia were under Polish rule.

Sources

* Jan Samek: ''Polskie Rzemiosło Artystyczne'', Wydawnictwa Artystyczne i Filmowe, Warszawa 1984,

External links

Short description, sketch
Polish clothing Lithuanian clothing Lithuanian nobility Belarusian clothing Ukrainian folk clothing Coats (clothing) Turkish inventions {{Poland-hist-stub

See also

Sources

External links