The klemheist knot or French Machard knot is a type of
friction hitch that grips the rope when weight is applied, and is free to move when the weight is released. It is used similarly to a
Prusik knot or the
Bachmann knot to ascend or descend a
climbing
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders) to small boulders. Climbing is done for locom ...
rope. One advantage is that
webbing
file:Webbing.jpg, red, blue and black nylon webbing as used in auto racing harnesses
Webbing is a strong Textile, fabric weaving, woven as a flat strip or tube of varying width and fibres, often used in place of rope. It is a versatile componen ...
can be used as an alternative to cord. The Klemheist is easier to slide up than a Prusik. The klemheist is also a way to attach a snubber to the anchor rope of small boats, with the advantage that it is easy to undo.
[Eric Vola, �]
Le nœud Machard et son histoire
», site du CAF-Marseille, 2015
Sometimes the knot name is misspelled as "kleimheist", with an extra "i".
Technique
Make a secure loop of a cord (see
Double fisherman's knot) that is definitely narrower than the rope. Wrap from one end around the rope two or three times in a direction that will be down. The loose end is then threaded through the starting end, and carefully tightened to leave the wraps neat. In use, strain must be taken only on the hanging end. If the knot slips when load is placed on the hanging loop, re-tie around the climbing rope another time or two, until there is no slippage. Holding around the wraps will let you slide the knot up or down. Making the wraps slide when the hitch is under tension will create friction heat on the rope and the knot.
See also
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List of knots
This list of knots includes many alternative names for common knots and lashings. Knot names have evolved over time, and there are many conflicting or confusing naming issues. The overhand knot, for example, is also known as the thumb knot. The ...
*
List of friction hitch knots
A list is a Set (mathematics), set of discrete items of information collected and set forth in some format for utility, entertainment, or other purposes. A list may be memorialized in any number of ways, including existing only in the mind of t ...
References
External links
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Chockstone: Friction KnotsMark Adams's "Son of a Hitch: A Genealogy of Arborists’ Climbing Hitches"
Climbing knots
Caving equipment
Rappelling equipment
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