Kanchenjunga
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Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the
Himalayas The Himalayas, or Himalaya ( ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the Earth's highest peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest. More than list of h ...
, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of
Nepal Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China Ch ...
and
Sikkim Sikkim ( ; ) is a States and union territories of India, state in northeastern India. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the east, Koshi Province of Nepal in the west, and West Bengal in the ...
state of
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
, with the West and Kangbachen peaks located in Nepal's Taplejung District and the Main, Central and South peaks directly on the border. Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world. However, precise calculations and meticulous measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that
Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Nepal and Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. The Indian side of the mountain is off limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a
UNESCO World Heritage Site World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
.


Etymology

''Kangchenjunga'' is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield, Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the
Royal Geographical Society The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), often shortened to RGS, is a learned society and professional body for geography based in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1830 for the advancement of geographical scien ...
, and provides the most accurate English rendition of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century. Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga, Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzönga. The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name 'Kanchinjínga', meaning "the five treasures of the high snow", as originating from the Tibetan words "gangs" , meaning snow and ice; "chen", meaning great; "mdzod", meaning treasure; and "lnga", meaning five. The local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise
salt In common usage, salt is a mineral composed primarily of sodium chloride (NaCl). When used in food, especially in granulated form, it is more formally called table salt. In the form of a natural crystalline mineral, salt is also known as r ...
,
gold Gold is a chemical element; it has chemical symbol Au (from Latin ) and atomic number 79. In its pure form, it is a brightness, bright, slightly orange-yellow, dense, soft, malleable, and ductile metal. Chemically, gold is a transition metal ...
, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.


Geography

The ''Kangchenjunga Himal'' section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over . In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of
Nepal Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China Ch ...
and
Sikkim Sikkim ( ; ) is a States and union territories of India, state in northeastern India. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China in the north and northeast, Bhutan in the east, Koshi Province of Nepal in the west, and West Bengal in the ...
state of
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
, with the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District, and three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border. Kanchenjunga rises about south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range, about east-southeast of
Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
in a straight line. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern
West Bengal West Bengal (; Bengali language, Bengali: , , abbr. WB) is a States and union territories of India, state in the East India, eastern portion of India. It is situated along the Bay of Bengal, along with a population of over 91 million inhabi ...
. Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that
Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain after Everest and K2 of Karakoram. Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain
massif A massif () is a principal mountain mass, such as a compact portion of a mountain range, containing one or more summits (e.g. France's Massif Central). In mountaineering literature, ''massif'' is frequently used to denote the main mass of an ...
. The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the table at the end of this section. The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers. The main ridge intersects with other ridges running roughly from east to west to form a giant cross. These ridges contain a host of peaks between . The northern section includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal–Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III. This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge. The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu. Four main
glacier A glacier (; or ) is a persistent body of dense ice, a form of rock, that is constantly moving downhill under its own weight. A glacier forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. It acquires ...
s radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers. The glaciers spread over the area above approximately , and the glacialized area covers about in total. There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between 1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to
global warming Present-day climate change includes both global warming—the ongoing increase in global average temperature—and its wider effects on Earth's climate system. Climate change in a broader sense also includes previous long-term changes ...
. Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the
Brahmaputra River The Brahmaputra is a trans-boundary river which flows through Southwestern China, Northeastern India, and Bangladesh. It is known as Brahmaputra or Luit in Assamese language, Assamese, Yarlung Tsangpo in Lhasa Tibetan, Tibetan, the Siang/Dihan ...
basin, which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins. Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above located in the basin of the Kosi River, which is among the largest tributaries of the
Ganges The Ganges ( ; in India: Ganga, ; in Bangladesh: Padma, ). "The Ganges Basin, known in India as the Ganga and in Bangladesh as the Padma, is an international which goes through India, Bangladesh, Nepal and China." is a trans-boundary rive ...
. The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the
Ganges Basin The Ganges ( ; in India: Ganga, ; in Bangladesh: Padma, ). "The Ganges Basin, known in India as the Ganga and in Bangladesh as the Padma, is an international which goes through India, Bangladesh, Nepal and China." is a trans-boundary rive ...
. Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29th by
topographic prominence In topography, prominence or relative height (also referred to as autonomous height, and shoulder drop in US English, and drop in British English) measures the height of a mountain or hill's summit relative to the lowest contour line encircling ...
, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of , along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet. It is, however, the fourth-most-prominent peak in the Himalayas, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya, Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa, respectively.


Protected areas

The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct
ecoregion An ecoregion (ecological region) is an ecological and geographic area that exists on multiple different levels, defined by type, quality, and quantity of environmental resources. Ecoregions cover relatively large areas of land or water, and c ...
s: the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands. The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal, India,
Bhutan Bhutan, officially the Kingdom of Bhutan, is a landlocked country in South Asia, in the Eastern Himalayas between China to the north and northwest and India to the south and southeast. With a population of over 727,145 and a territory of , ...
and
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
, and comprises 14
protected area Protected areas or conservation areas are locations which receive protection because of their recognized natural or cultural values. Protected areas are those areas in which human presence or the exploitation of natural resources (e.g. firewood ...
s with a total of : * Nepal: Kanchenjunga Conservation Area * Sikkim, India: Khangchendzonga National Park, Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary, Fambong Lho Wildlife Sanctuary, Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary, Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary and Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary *
Darjeeling Darjeeling (, , ) is a city in the northernmost region of the States and union territories of India, Indian state of West Bengal. Located in the Eastern Himalayas, it has an average elevation of . To the west of Darjeeling lies the Koshi Pr ...
, India: Jore Pokhri Wildlife Sanctuary, Singalila National Park, Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary, Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary and Neora Valley National Park * Bhutan: Torsa Strict Nature Reserve These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant
plant Plants are the eukaryotes that form the Kingdom (biology), kingdom Plantae; they are predominantly Photosynthesis, photosynthetic. This means that they obtain their energy from sunlight, using chloroplasts derived from endosymbiosis with c ...
species such as
rhododendron ''Rhododendron'' (; : ''rhododendra'') is a very large genus of about 1,024 species of woody plants in the Ericaceae, heath family (Ericaceae). They can be either evergreen or deciduous. Most species are native to eastern Asia and the Himalayan ...
s and
orchid Orchids are plants that belong to the family Orchidaceae (), a diverse and widespread group of flowering plants with blooms that are often colourful and fragrant. Orchids are cosmopolitan plants that are found in almost every habitat on Eart ...
s and many
endangered An endangered species is a species that is very likely to become extinct in the near future, either worldwide or in a particular political jurisdiction. Endangered species may be at risk due to factors such as habitat loss, poaching, inv ...
flagship species such as snow leopard (''Panthera uncia''), Asian black bear (''Ursus thibetanus''), red panda (''Ailurus fulgens''), white-bellied musk deer (''Moschus leucogaster''), blood pheasant (''Ithaginis cruentus'') and chestnut-breasted partridge (''Arborophila mandellii'').


Climbing routes

There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kangchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000.


Climbing history


Early reconnaissances and attempts

* Between April 1848 and February 1849,
Joseph Dalton Hooker Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker (30 June 1817 – 10 December 1911) was a British botanist and explorer in the 19th century. He was a founder of geographical botany and Charles Darwin's closest friend. For 20 years he served as director of the Ro ...
explored parts of northern Sikkim and eastern Nepal, mainly to collect plants and study the distribution of Himalayan flora. He was based in Darjeeling, and made repeated excursions in the river valleys and into the foothills of Kangchenjunga up to an elevation of . * In spring 1855, the German explorer Hermann von Schlagintweit travelled to Darjeeling but was not allowed to proceed further north due to the Third Nepal–Tibet War. In May, he explored the Singalila Ridge up to the peak of Tonglo for a meteorological survey. * In 1879, Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen-gyatso crossed into Tibet west of "Kanchanjinga" via eastern Nepal and the Tashilhunpo Monastery en route to
Lhasa Lhasa, officially the Chengguan District of Lhasa City, is the inner urban district of Lhasa (city), Lhasa City, Tibet Autonomous Region, Southwestern China. Lhasa is the second most populous urban area on the Tibetan Plateau after Xining ...
. They returned along the same route in 1881. * In 1883, a party of William Woodman Graham together with two
Swiss Swiss most commonly refers to: * the adjectival form of Switzerland * Swiss people Swiss may also refer to: Places * Swiss, Missouri * Swiss, North Carolina * Swiss, West Virginia * Swiss, Wisconsin Other uses * Swiss Café, an old café located ...
mountaineers climbed in the area of Kangchenjunga. They were the first who ascended Kabru within below the summit. They crossed the Kang La pass and climbed a peak of nearly from which they examined Jannu. They concluded it was too late in the year for an attempt and returned once again to Darjeeling. * Between October 1885 and January 1886, Rinzin Namgyal surveyed the unexplored north and west sides of Kangchenjunga. He was the first native surveyor to map the circuit of Kangchenjunga and provided sketches of each side of the peak and the adjoining valleys. He also defined the frontiers of Nepal, Tibet and Sikkim in this area. * In 1899, British mountaineer Douglas Freshfield set out with his party comprising the Italian photographer Vittorio Sella. They were the first mountaineers to examine the lower and upper ramparts, and the great western face of Kangchenjunga, rising from the Kangchenjunga Glacier. * The 1905 Kanchenjunga Expedition was headed by
Aleister Crowley Aleister Crowley ( ; born Edward Alexander Crowley; 12 October 1875 – 1 December 1947) was an English occultist, ceremonial magician, poet, novelist, mountaineer, and painter. He founded the religion of Thelema, identifying himself as the pr ...
who had been part of the team attempting the 1902 ascent of K2. The team reached an estimated elevation of on the southwest side of the mountain before turning back. The exact height reached is somewhat unclear; Crowley stated that on 31 August, "We were certainly over and possibly over ", when the team was forced to retreat to Camp 5 by the risk of avalanche. On 1 September, they evidently went further; some members of the team, Reymond, Pache and Salama, "got over the bad patch" that had forced them to return to Camp 5 the day before, and progressed "out of sight and hearing" before returning to Crowley and the men with packs, who could not cross the dangerous section unassisted with their burdens. It is not clear how far Reymond, Pache and Salama had ascended—but in summarizing, Crowley ventured "We had reached a height of approximately ." Attempting a "mutinous" late-in-the-day descent from Camp 5 to Camp 3, climber Alexis Pache who earlier that day had been one of three to ascend possibly higher than any before, and three local porters, were killed in an avalanche. Despite the insistence of one of the men that "the demon of Kangchenjunga was propitiated with the sacrifice", Crowley decided the accident and its ramifications made it impossible to continue the expedition. * In 1907, two
Norwegians Norwegians () are an ethnic group and nation native to Norway, where they form the vast majority of the population. They share a common culture and speak the Norwegian language. Norwegians are descended from the Norsemen, Norse of the Early ...
set about climbing ''Jongri'' via the Kabru glacier to the south, an approach apparently rejected by Graham's party. Progress was very slow, partly because of problems with supplies and porters, and presumably also lack of fitness and acclimatisation. However, from a high camp at about they were eventually able to reach a point below the summit before they were turned back by strong winds. * In 1929, German Paul Bauer led an expedition team that reached on the northeast spur before being turned back by a five-day
storm A storm is any disturbed state of the natural environment or the atmosphere of an astronomical body. It may be marked by significant disruptions to normal conditions such as strong wind, tornadoes, hail, thunder and lightning (a thunderstor ...
.Bauer, P. (1955). ''Kangchenjunga Challenge''. William Kimber, London. * In May 1929, the American E. F. Farmer left Darjeeling with native porters, crossed the Kang La into Nepal and climbed up towards the ''Talung Saddle''. When his porters refused to go any further, he climbed alone further upwards through drifting mists but did not return. * In 1930, Günter Dyhrenfurth led an international expedition comprising the German Uli Wieland, Austrian and Englishman Frank Smythe who attempted to climb Kangchenjunga. They failed because of poor weather and snow conditions. * In 1931, Paul Bauer led a second German expedition team who attempted the northeast spur before being turned back by bad weather, illnesses and deaths. The team, including Peter Aufschnaiter, retreated after climbing 300 m higher than the 1929 attempt. * In 1954, John Kempe led a party comprising John W. Tucker, S. R. Jackson, G. C. Lewis, T. H. Braham and medical officer Donald Stafford Matthews. They explored the upper Yalung glacier with the intention to discover a practicable route to the great ice-shelf that runs across the southwest face of Kangchenjunga. This reconnaissance led to the route used by the successful 1955 expedition.


First ascent

In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May. The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon. The team first made an attempt on the line which John Kempe's party had reconnoitered the previous year. Because of the difficulties on that line they turned to the Yalung Face, which had first been explored by Aleister Crowley's party in 1905. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around , covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow,
glacier A glacier (; or ) is a persistent body of dense ice, a form of rock, that is constantly moving downhill under its own weight. A glacier forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. It acquires ...
and one
icefall An icefall is a portion of certain glaciers characterized by relatively rapid flow and chaotic crevassed surface, caused in part by gravity. The term ''icefall'' is formed by analogy with the word ''waterfall'', which is a similar phenomenon of ...
; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May. Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.


Other notable ascents

* 1973: Yutaka Ageta and Takeo Matsuda of the Japanese expedition summited Kangchenjunga West by climbing the southwestern ridge. Matsuda never returned to camp and his body was never found. The expedition concluded that he had fallen during descent when he was separated from Ageta. * 1977: The second ascent of Kangchenjunga, by an Indian Army team led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. They completed the northeast spur, the difficult ridge that defeated German expeditions in 1929 and 1931. * 1978: and made the first successful ascents of the summits Kangchenjunga South on 19 May; and Wojciech Brański, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech on 22 May on Kangchenjunga Central. * 1979: The third ascent on 16 May, and the first without oxygen, by Doug Scott, Peter Boardman and
Joe Tasker Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British Climbing, climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest. Early life Born into a Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten ...
, establishing a new route on the North Ridge. * 1985: The first winter attempt, by a team of three led by the American Chris Chandler, from the north side. Chandler died on the unsuccessful attempt. * 1986: The first ascent in winter, by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki on 11 January 1986, they followed the route from the SW which was pioneered during the original first ascent. * 1992: Carlos Carsolio made the only summit that year. It was in a solo climb without supplementary oxygen. * 1995: Benoît Chamoux, Pierre Royer and their Sherpa guide Riku disappeared on 6 October near the summit. * 1998: Ginette Harrison was the first woman to climb Kangchenjunga's North Face. * 2009: Edurne Pasaban, a Spanish mountaineer, reached the summit, becoming the first woman to summit twelve eight-thousanders. * In May 2009: Kinga Baranowska was the first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. * In 2011, Tunç Fındık became the first Turkish man to reach the peak of Kangchenjunga, his seventh eight thousander, with Swiss partner Guntis Brandts via the British 1955 SW Face route. * In May 2011, Indian mountaineers Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas successfully scaled Kangchenjunga Main. * In May 2013, five climbers including Hungarian Zsolt Erőss and Péter Kiss reached the summit, but disappeared during the descent. * In May 2014, Bulgarian Boyan Petrov reached the peak without the use of supplemental oxygen. * In May 2014, Chhanda Gayen was the first Indian woman to summit. She was killed by an avalanche on the descent. * In May 2022, Indian Narayanan Iyer died during a summit push on the mountain. Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more than 20% of people have died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.


In myth

The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called ''Dzö-nga'' or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yeti or
rakshasa Rākshasa (, , ; ; "preservers") are a race of usually malevolent beings prominently featured in Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Folk Islam. They reside on Earth but possess supernatural powers, which they usually use for evil acts such as ...
. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon". For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people and Limbu people, and those of the
Tibetan Buddhist Tibetan Buddhism is a form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet, Bhutan and Mongolia. It also has a sizable number of adherents in the areas surrounding the Himalayas, including the Indian regions of Ladakh, Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Arunachal Prades ...
cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong. In 1962, a Tibetan
Lama Lama () is a title bestowed to a realized practitioner of the Dharma in Tibetan Buddhism. Not all monks are lamas, while nuns and female practitioners can be recognized and entitled as lamas. The Tibetan word ''la-ma'' means "high mother", ...
by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga, to "open the way" to Beyul Demoshong.


In literature

* In '' The Epic of Mount Everest'', first published in 1926, Sir Francis Younghusband: "For natural beauty Darjiling (
Darjeeling Darjeeling (, , ) is a city in the northernmost region of the States and union territories of India, Indian state of West Bengal. Located in the Eastern Himalayas, it has an average elevation of . To the west of Darjeeling lies the Koshi Pr ...
) is surely unsurpassed in the world. From all countries travellers come there to see the famous view of Kangchenjunga, in height, and only distant. Darjiling (Darjeeling) itself is above sea-level and is set in a forest of oaks, magnolia,
rhododendron ''Rhododendron'' (; : ''rhododendra'') is a very large genus of about 1,024 species of woody plants in the Ericaceae, heath family (Ericaceae). They can be either evergreen or deciduous. Most species are native to eastern Asia and the Himalayan ...
s, laurels and sycamores. And through these forests, the observer looks down the steep mountain-sides to the Rangeet River only above sea-level, and then up and up through tier after tier of forest-clad ranges, each bathed in a haze of deeper and deeper purple, till the line of snow is reached; and then still up to the summit of Kangchenjunga, now so pure and ethereal we can scarcely believe it is part of the solid earth on which we stand; and so high it seems part of the very sky itself." * In 1999, official
James Bond The ''James Bond'' franchise focuses on James Bond (literary character), the titular character, a fictional Secret Intelligence Service, British Secret Service agent created in 1953 by writer Ian Fleming, who featured him in twelve novels ...
author Raymond Benson published '' High Time to Kill''. In this story, a
microdot A microdot is text or an image substantially reduced in size to prevent detection by unintended recipients. Microdots are normally circular and around in diameter but can be made into different shapes and sizes and made from various materials s ...
containing a secret formula for aviation technology is stolen by a society called the Union. During their escape, their plane crashes on the slopes of Kangchenjunga. James Bond becomes part of a climbing expedition in order to retrieve the formula. * '' The Inheritance of Loss'' by Kiran Desai, which won the 2006
Man Booker Prize The Booker Prize, formerly the Booker Prize for Fiction (1969–2001) and the Man Booker Prize (2002–2019), is a prestigious literary award conferred each year for the best single work of sustained fiction written in the English language, wh ...
, is set partly in Kalimpong, a hill station situated near Kangchenjunga. * In ''
Legend of the Galactic Heroes , sometimes abbreviated as ''LOTGH'', ''LOGH'', ''LGH'' or in Japanese (and also depicted as ''Heldensagen vom Kosmosinsel'' in the anime intro), is a series of Epic (genre), epic science fiction novels written by Yoshiki Tanak ...
'' by Yoshiki Tanaka, which won the
Seiun Award The is a Japanese speculative fiction award given each year for the best science fiction works and achievements during the previous calendar year. Organized and overseen by , the awards are given at the annual Nihon SF Taikai, Japan Science Fic ...
for Best Novel of the Year in 1988 and was adapted into an
anime is a Traditional animation, hand-drawn and computer animation, computer-generated animation originating from Japan. Outside Japan and in English, ''anime'' refers specifically to animation produced in Japan. However, , in Japan and in Ja ...
series by Kitty Films, the capital and holiest temple of the Terraist Cult is on Earth beneath the rubble of Kangchenjunga. * Michelle Paver's 2016 ghost story novel ''Thin Air'' concerns a fictional expedition to climb Kangchenjunga in 1935, and an earlier (also fictional) expedition in 1906. * The book ''Round Kangchenjunga: A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration'' by Douglas Freshfield gives a complete account of his travel around Kangchenjunga. * Susan Jagannath's book ''Chasing Himalayan Dreams: A trek in the Shadow of Kanchenjunga and Everest'' details her 61 km, six-day trek up and around Kangchenjunga. *
Kate Bush Catherine Bush (born 30 July 1958) is an English singer, songwriter, record producer, and dancer. Bush began writing songs at age 11. She was signed to EMI Records after David Gilmour of Pink Floyd helped produce a demo tape. In 1978, at the ...
's song "Wild Man": "Well, the first verse of the song is just quickly going through some of the terms that the Yeti is known by and one of those names is the Kangchenjunga Demon. He's also known as Wild Man and Abominable Snowman. (...) I don't refer to the Yeti as a man in the song. But it is meant to be an empathetic view of a creature of great mystery really. And I suppose it's the idea really that mankind wants to grab hold of something ike the Yetiand stick it in a cage or a box and make money out of it. And to go back to your question, I think we're very arrogant in our separation from the animal kingdom and generally as a species we are enormously arrogant and aggressive. Look at the way we treat the planet and animals and it's pretty terrible isn't it?" (John Doran, "A Demon in the Drift: Kate Bush Interviewed". ''
The Quietus ''The Quietus'' is a British online music and pop culture magazine founded by John Doran and Luke Turner. The site is an editorially independent publication led by Doran with a group of freelance journalists and critics. Content ''The Quietu ...
'', 2011.)


See also

* List of deaths on Kangchenjunga *
List of elevation extremes by country The following sortable table lists land surface elevation extremes by country or dependent territory. Topographic elevation is the vertical distance above the reference geoid, a mathematical model of the Earth's sea level as an equipotential ...
* Sacred mountains of India


References


Further reading

* Paul Bauer "The German Attack on Kangchenjunga", ''The Himalayan Journal'', 1930 Vol. II. * Paul Bauer 1937. ''Himalayan Campaign''. Blackwell is the story of Bauer's two attempts in 1929 and 1931, republished as ''Kangchenjunga Challenge'' (William Kimber, 1955). * Paul Bauer 1931. Um Den Kantsch: der zweite deutsche Angriff auf den Kangchendzönga, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 81, No. 4 April 1933, pp. 362–363 * Paul Bauer; Sumner Austin 1938. Himalayan Campaign: The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 91, No. 5: 478 * '' The Times Literary Supplement'', Thursday, 9 April 1931. "Kangchenjunga", Paul Bauer. * Im Kampf um den Himalaja, Paul Bauer. The Kangchenjunga Adventure, F. S. Smythe, Himalaya: Unsere Expedition, G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 1930 * Peter Boardman 1982. ''Sacred Summits: A Climber's Year''. Includes the 1979 ascent of Kangchenjunga with
Joe Tasker Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British Climbing, climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest. Early life Born into a Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten ...
and Doug Scott. Also in ''The Himalayan Journal'' Vol 36. * An Adventure to Kangchenjunga, Hugh Boustead, ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 69, No. 4 (Apr. 1927), pp. 344–350 * Recent Heroes of Modern Adventure, T. C. Bridges; H. Hessell Tiltman, ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 81, No. 6 June 1933, p. 568 * Joe Brown, ''The Hard Years'', tells his version of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955. * J. Norman Collie, F.R.S. The Geographer at High Altitudes, ''Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges''. Edinburgh: David Douglas. 1902. * Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth "The International Himalayan Expedition, 1930", ''The Himalayan Journal'', April 1931, Vol. III. Details their attempt on Kangchenjunga. * Charles Evans ''Kangchenjunga The Untrodden Peak'', Hodder & Stoughton, Leader of the 1955 expedition. Principal of the University College of North Wales, Bangor. Foreword by His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, K.G. * Charles Evans 1956. "Kangchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak". '' The Times Literary Supplement''. * Douglas Freshfield "The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga". ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 19, No. 4 April 1902, pp. 453–472 *
Joseph Dalton Hooker Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker (30 June 1817 – 10 December 1911) was a British botanist and explorer in the 19th century. He was a founder of geographical botany and Charles Darwin's closest friend. For 20 years he served as director of the Ro ...
1855. ''Himalayan Journals''. Assistant-director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. * C. K. Howard-Bury. 1922. "The Mount Everest Expedition". ''The Geographical Journal'' 59 (2): 81–99. * ''The Imperial Gazetteer of India''. Vol. XXVI, ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 79, No. 1 January 1932, pp. 53–56 * Irving, R. L. G. 1940. ''Ten Great Mountains''. London, J. M. Dent & Sons * John Angelo Jackson 1955. ''More than Mountains'' Book containing data on the 1954 Kangchenjunga reconnaissance. Jackson was also a team member of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955, also relates the ''
Daily Mail The ''Daily Mail'' is a British daily Middle-market newspaper, middle-market Tabloid journalism, tabloid conservative newspaper founded in 1896 and published in London. , it has the List of newspapers in the United Kingdom by circulation, h ...
'' "Abominable Snowman" or Yeti Expedition, when the first trek from Everest to Kangchenjunga was accomplished

Relevant pages 97 onwards with two detailed maps. * John Angelo Jackson 2005. ''Adventure Travels in the Himalaya''. Indus Publishing. Recounts in more detail the first ascent of Kangchenjunga. * Narendra Kumar (mountaineer), Colonel Narinder Kumar 1978. ''Kangchenjunga: First ascent from the north-east spur''. Vision books. Includes the second ever ascent of Kangchenjunga and the first from the northeast spur on the Indian side of the mountain. See also ''Himalayan Journal'' Vol. 36 and 50th Anniversary Edition * "General Bruce's Illness a Serious handicap" ''The Times'', (British) World Copyright, Lt. R. F. Norton, 19 April 1924. Expedition in the Kangchenjunga area. * Simon Pierse 2005. ''Kangchenjunga: Imaging a Himalayan Mountain''. University of Wales, School of Art Press, . An anthology of word and image published to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the first ascents of Kangchenjunga. Well illustrated with reproductions of paintings, prints and photographs describing the climbing history and cultural significance of the mountain. Preface by George Band. * F. S. Smythe ''The Kangchenjunga Adventure'', 1930 to 1931. Victor Gollancz, Ltd. Smythe was the team member responsible for writing and sending the dispatches to The Statesman in Calcutta, (Mr. Alfred Watson Editor), who transmitted the dispatches to
The Times ''The Times'' is a British Newspaper#Daily, daily Newspaper#National, national newspaper based in London. It began in 1785 under the title ''The Daily Universal Register'', adopting its modern name on 1 January 1788. ''The Times'' and its si ...
(editors Deakin & Bogaerde), during the expedition of 193
example
* '' The Times Literary Supplement'', Thursday, 11 December 1930. "The Kangchenjunga Adventure", F. S. Smythe. * H. W. Tilman ''The ascent of Nanda Devi'', 7 June 1937, Cambridge University Press. Relates the story of their intention to climb Kangchenjunga. * Lieut. Col. H. W. Tobin "Exploration and Climbing in The Sikkim Himalaya", ''The Himalayan Journal'', April 1930 Vol. II. Provides the early exploration and climbing attempts on Kangchenjunga. * "Account of a Photographic Expedition to the Southern Glaciers of Kangchenjunga in the Sikkim Himalaya", N. A. Tombazi, ''The Geographical Journal'', Vol. 67, No. 1 January 1926, pp. 74–76 * Laurence Waddell 1899. ''Among The Himalayas''. Travels in Sikkim. Book includes the exploration of the south of Kangchenjunga. * Pema Wangchuk and Mita Zulca ''Khangchendzonga: Sacred Summit''. The book details the stories and legends celebrated by the communities living in the Kangchenjunga's shadow, goes over the exploits of the early explorers and mountaineers. Chapters cover what Khangchendzonga means to Buddhism, mapping, early explorers, Alexander Kellas, early expeditions, the first ascent in 1955, the Indian Army ascent (1977), the second British ascent (1979), women climbers, the Tiger climbers, the yeti and more. Profusely illustrated with many period photos. * Lou Whittaker, ''Memoirs of a Mountain Guide'', 1994 The above ''Himalayan Journal'' references were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.


External links


Kangchenjunga page on Himalaya-Info.org (German)

Kangchenjunga page on Summitpost.org


for a more detailed up to date account of the mountain's history and ascents.
"Kāngchenjunga, India/Nepal" on Peakbagger
* Photos.
Glacier Research Image Project
presents photos tracking 24 years of changes in glaciers at Kangchenjunga. * Statistics of Kangchenjunga. {{Authority control Mountain ranges of Nepal Landforms of Sikkim Eight-thousanders of the Himalayas Sacred mountains of India India–Nepal border International mountains of Asia Seven Third Summits Highest points of Indian states and union territories Tourism in Northeast India Highest points of countries Mountains of Koshi Province Sacred mountains of Nepal Articles containing video clips