History
Julien moved to the United States "as cook to the celebrated Dubuque, who was a refugee from the French Revolution." Prior to 1793, Julien had served as "steward to the Hon. M. LeTombe, consul of the French Republic."Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), July 19, 1793 Other friends and associates included Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. The Restorator opened in July 1793: "a resort where the infirm in health, the convalescent, and those whose attention to studious business occasions a lassitude of nature; can obtain the most suitable nourishment. ... Spirits are not to be used; ... and all gaming is disallowed. ... Excellent wines and cordials, good soups and broths, pastry in all its delicious variety, alamode beef, bacon, poultry, and generally, all other refreshing viands, will be kept in due preparation: and a bill of fare will be kept ... from which each visitor may command whatever may best suit his appetite." The business first stood on Congress Street "opposite the Quaker's meeting house" in the Financial District, then in 1794 settled on Milk Street (corner of Congress St.) in "the house lately occupied by Mr. Thomas Clements."Boston Restorator. American Apollo (Boston), Aug. 21, 1794 The building had been erected in 1670-1671 by Henry Bridgham. Julien's was "agreeably situated to receive the fresh air -- which is so necessary for the convalescent and strangers." The establishment was referred to as "Julien's," the "Boston Restorator," "Mr. Julien's French Restorator," "Julien's Restorator," or "The Restorator." According to food historians Julien's "public eating house ... was famous for his soups and stews, and he was nicknamed the Prince of Soups''.' He is credited with introducing to America the julienne soup, a composition of vegetables in long, narrow strips. Julien specialized in making turtle soup." Julien's advertisements for the soup emphasized medical justifications: "Turtle soup. Much has been said on its efficacy in purifying the blood by Tissot in his celebrated dissertation on the subject, and by Buffon, the great naturalist, who discovered the beneficial nature of amphibious animals. Those who use this soup must not expect that it be made strong with spice, but from ingredients clear and light." "Many celebrated physicians have recommended it. ... As the first establishment of a restorator in Paris was not forIn imitation of Mr. Julien, I mean to open a house of public entertainment, where every intellectual epicure may be gratified with his favourite dish. The moralist shall be feasted with ethics, the philologist with criticism, and the weak and delicate palates of beaus and ladies shall be indulged with remarks on dress and fashion. After the sumptuous repasts afforded by the '' Tatler'', ''Spectator'', ''Guardian'', ''Rambler'', &c. every succeeding candidate for public favour, in this province, must appear to disadvantage; nor have I the presumption to imagine, that I can produce any thing which can vie, in point of excellence, with the choice dishes of those able caterers. But as the situation and habits of the new world differ considerably from those of the old, if I should be so fortunate as to hit the taste of my customers, I shall have no mean opinion of my cookery. ...Events that took place at the Restorator included a July 4th dinner of the "officers of the first regiment" in 1798; and anniversary celebrations of the Boston Franklin Typographical Association, 1803–1805. Julien died in 1805, and was buried in the Central Burying Ground. His wife Hannah Julien continued at the Restorator through at least 1813. Around 1816 it was "continued under the management of a countryman of Mr. Julien," Frederick Rouillard, until 1823. The building was demolished in 1824, and in 1825 Edward H. Robbins built on the old site of the Restorator a multi-functional assembly space, Julien Hall, named in honor of the now-defunct restaurant.Caleb Snow. History of Boston, 3rd ed. 1838.
References
Further reading
* Arthur W. Brayley. "An originator of soups." Boston Cooking School Magazine. v.10, no.9, April 1906External links