Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto
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Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (born February 9, 1987 – February 5, 2021) was a Chilean
architect An architect is a person who plans, designs, and oversees the construction of buildings. To practice architecture means to provide services in connection with the design of buildings and the space within the site surrounding the buildings that h ...
, rock climber and
mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
. He held a Guinness World Record for making the first
enchainment In mountaineering and climbing, enchainment (an anglicisation of the French language, French word , meaning "linking") is climbing two or more mountains or climbing routes on a mountain in one outing (often over the course of a day or a series of ...
of
Lhotse Lhotse ( ; ; ) is the List of highest mountains#List, fourth-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. At an elevation of above sea level, the main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of Chin ...
and
Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
without oxygen in 2019.


Biography

In 2012, he graduated as an architect from the
Diego Portales University Diego Portales University (, UDP) is one of the first private universities founded in Chile and is named after the Chilean statesman Diego Portales. UDP has campuses in the Barrio Universitario de SantiagoA literal translation is the Santiago ...
and later devoted himself to taking mountaineering and rescue courses. He created the DeporteLibre Foundation, a non-profit organization that creates public sports infrastructure in abandoned spaces. Mohr was behind the development of one of the foundation's facilities, Parque de Escalada Los Silos, a free outdoor climbing gym in
Santiago Santiago (, ; ), also known as Santiago de Chile (), is the capital and largest city of Chile and one of the largest cities in the Americas. It is located in the country's central valley and is the center of the Santiago Metropolitan Regi ...
. Los Silos is the highest urban climbing park in Latin America.


Mountaineering

In 2017, Mohr and Sebastián Rojas summitted
Annapurna Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...
, becoming the first Chileans to achieve this feat.  In 2019, Mohr was registered in the Guinness Records for being the first person to summit
Lhotse Lhotse ( ; ; ) is the List of highest mountains#List, fourth-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. At an elevation of above sea level, the main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of Chin ...
and
Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
without having to return to the Base camp in less than a week, without the help of Sherpas and without oxygen.  In October of the same year, he made an ascent of
Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapur ...
, also without supplementary oxygen and without the help of Sherpas. After these ascents, Mohr began to outline a project to climb to the highest summit of each of Chile's sixteen regions and build mountain shelters in all of them, declaring that “as an architect I want to design and build shelters in the highest mountains from each region to expand mountaineering in Chile", also developing mountaineering workshops and training for local communities with the aim of generating a system that allows the local administration of each refuge and generating activities that promote mountain culture, with the support of the Ministry of National Assets, the National Institute of Sports and the National Tourism Service.


Final climb

In late 2020, Mohr traveled to K2 with
Sergi Mingote Sergi Mingote i Moreno (9 March 1971 – 16 January 2021) was a Spanish mountaineer. He was also a lecturer and executive coach for The International School of Coaching. He held a diploma in managerial function from ESADE and Master in Internatio ...
in an attempt to make the first successful winter ascent of the mountain. Mohr was on the mountain with Mingote when he fell and died on January 16, 2021. After the death of his partner, Mohr decided to continue his attempt with the Italian mountaineer
Tamara Lunger Tamara Lunger (born 6 June 1986) is an Italian mountaineer, who started her career as a ski mountaineer. Early life Lunger was born in Bolzano; she is the daughter of the ski mountaineer Hansjörg Lunger. She started ski mountaineering in 2002 a ...
, who later could not continue either. Mohr then followed the route of ascent alongside Pakistani mountaineers
Muhammad Muhammad (8 June 632 CE) was an Arab religious and political leader and the founder of Islam. Muhammad in Islam, According to Islam, he was a prophet who was divinely inspired to preach and confirm the tawhid, monotheistic teachings of A ...
and Sajid Ali Sadpara and Icelander
John Snorri Sigurjónsson John Snorri Sigurjónsson (20 June 1973 – 5 February 2021) was an Icelandic mountaineer. In May 2017, he became the first Icelander to summit Lhotse in the Himalayas, which is 8,516 meters high and the fourth highest mountain in the world. On ...
. Sajid, Muhammad's 20-year-old son, was forced to return from the so-called '
bottleneck Bottleneck may refer to: * the narrowed portion (neck) of a bottle Science and technology * Bottleneck (engineering), where the performance of an entire system is limited by a single component * Bottleneck (network), in a communication network * ...
' area of K2 due to a malfunctioning oxygen regulator. On Friday, February 5, when the trio was preparing to conquer the summit, they lost contact with their GPS devices, presumably frozen by the extreme cold in the area. On Saturday the 6th, the three mountaineers were reported missing and the search began with the help of helicopters from the Pakistani army that reached up to 7000 meters, but due to adverse weather conditions they had to suspend the rescue without seeing Mohr and his companions. He was declared dead on February 18, 2021. Mohr would be one of five climbers to lose their lives on K2 during the 2020–2021 winter season. In July 2021, Mohr's body was found on K2. In accordance with his family's wishes, his body remains on the mountain.


See also

*
Atanas Skatov Atanas Georgiev Skatov (; 11 March 1978 – 5 February 2021) was a Bulgarian mountaineer, vegan and agronomist in plant protection. Biography Skatov was born in Sliven, Bulgaria. In 2001, he graduated from the Agricultural University of Plo ...
*
Ali Sadpara Muhammad Ali Sadpara (; – ) was a Pakistani high-altitude mountaineer. He was part of the team (which included Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon) that completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016. Thro ...
*
Sergi Mingote Sergi Mingote i Moreno (9 March 1971 – 16 January 2021) was a Spanish mountaineer. He was also a lecturer and executive coach for The International School of Coaching. He held a diploma in managerial function from ESADE and Master in Internatio ...
* John Snorri


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Mohr Prieto, Juan Pablo 1987 births 2021 deaths 2020s missing person cases Chilean mountain climbers Formerly missing people Missing person cases in Pakistan Deaths on K2 Summiters of Mount Everest Sport deaths in Pakistan Sportspeople from Santiago, Chile Diego Portales University alumni