John Sherman (climber)
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John Sherman (born 1959), nicknamed Verm (short for "Vermin") is an American
rock climber Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...
and a pioneer in the promotion and development of the climbing discipline of
bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
. He is also a climbing writer and outdoor photographer, and the originator of the V-grade system (after his nickname), for grading the technical difficulty of boulder problems, which has since become one of the dominant grading systems worldwide.


Climbing career

Sherman started climbing at age 15 at Indian Rocks. He came to prominence as one of the developers of the important
Hueco Tanks Hueco Tanks is an area of low mountains and historic site in El Paso County, Texas, in the United States. It is located in a high-altitude desert basin between the Franklin Mountains (Texas), Franklin Mountains to the west and the Hueco Mountains ...
bouldering area in Texas, where he made over 400
first free ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused ...
s in the 1980s and early 1990s. As well as being an early adopter of bouldering as a sport, through his books and writings, Sherman played an important role in the promotion and development of the sport around the world. Sherman was the author of the notable 1991 bouldering guidebook, ''Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide'', which launched the important V-grade rating system. In 1992, Sherman and Bruce Pottenger designed the first commercially available
bouldering pad Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help se ...
with the "nylon sleeve, carrying straps, dual-density replaceable foam" that would become the standard design in bouldering, which they sold as the "Kinnaloa Sketchpad". Sherman was a highly visible 'enigmatic' and 'colorful' character in the climbing world throughout the 1980s and 1990s. In 2000, when reviewing Sherman's book, ''Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories'', for the '' American Alpine Journal'', climbing writer David Stevenson said: "If you’re of the opinion that Sherman is a raving lunatic, he’d probably be the last to argue with you. In fact, you’d do well to remember that he’s the one who very self-consciously gave you that impression in the first place. Don’t let the hyperbolic style fool you—this is one very smart guy", and also: "In Sherman we see the embodiment of both Royal Robbins and
Warren Harding Warren Gamaliel Harding (November 2, 1865 – August 2, 1923) was the 29th president of the United States, serving from 1921 until his death in 1923. A member of the Republican Party, he was one of the most popular sitting U.S. presidents w ...
, a pair whose individual values are generally understood to be mutually exclusive. But Sherman somehow takes Harding’s semper farcimas and combines it with Robins pure, ground-up ethic. I suppose one of the tricks to reading Sherman is to know when he’s joking and when he’s serious: the answer is usually both a and b." In 1988, Sherman appeared in the spring catalog for mountaineering retailer
Patagonia Patagonia () is a geographical region that includes parts of Argentina and Chile at the southern end of South America. The region includes the southern section of the Andes mountain chain with lakes, fjords, temperate rainforests, and glaciers ...
in a photograph where he is shown drinking a bottle of Coopers Best Extra stout beer while
free solo climbing Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipmen ...
–in his sandals–the
sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
route ''Lord of the Rings'' , in the Mount Arapiles, Australia; the image became popular amongst climbers, and Patagonia reproduced it in subsequent catalogs and also made it into a standalone poster.


Personal life

Sherman grew up in
Berkeley, California Berkeley ( ) is a city on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay in northern Alameda County, California, United States. It is named after the 18th-century Anglo-Irish bishop and philosopher George Berkeley. It borders the cities of Oakland, Cali ...
and earned a degree in geology at
University of Colorado Boulder The University of Colorado Boulder (CU Boulder, CU, or Colorado) is a public research university in Boulder, Colorado, United States. Founded in 1876, five months before Colorado became a state, it is the flagship university of the University o ...
. For many years, he pursued a mostly seasonal career working as a 'wellsite geologist' for oil exploration companies, which he attributed to giving him the financial freedom to indulge his passion for continuous travel.


Published works

* * * *


See also

* John Gill, a pioneer in modern bouldering *
Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes and for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is considered ...
, a pioneer in modern bouldering


References


External


Official websiteWatch John “Verm” Sherman’s Bouldering Come Back
''Gripped Magazine'' (2017) {{DEFAULTSORT:Sherman, John Living people 1959 births American rock climbers Boulder climbers 21st-century American non-fiction writers 20th-century American non-fiction writers University of Colorado Boulder alumni 21st-century American geologists 20th-century American geologists People from Berkeley, California Climbing and mountaineering writers