Jeanne S. Campbell
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Jeanne S. Campbell (1919–2002) was an American fashion designer active from the 1940s to the 1970s. She was part of the
American sportswear Sportswear is an American fashion term originally used to describe separates, but which since the 1930s has come to be applied to day and evening fashions of varying degrees of formality that demonstrate a specific relaxed approach to their desig ...
movement alongside
Bonnie Cashin Bonnie Cashin (September 28, 1908 – February 3, 2000) was an American fashion designer. Considered a pioneer in the design of American sportswear, she created innovative, uncomplicated clothing that catered to the modern, independent woman begi ...
and
Claire McCardell Claire McCardell (May 24, 1905 – March 22, 1958) was an American fashion designer of ready-to-wear clothing in the twentieth century. She has been credited with the creation of American sportswear. Early life McCardell was the eldest of four ...
.


Biography

Jeanne grew up in Pittsburgh, and studied at the Pittsburgh Art Institute. After graduating, she opened her own business in
Clearwater, Florida Clearwater is a city and the county seat of Pinellas County, Florida, United States, west of Tampa, Florida, Tampa and north of St. Petersburg, Florida, St. Petersburg. To the west of Clearwater lies the Gulf of Mexico and to the southeast lies T ...
, near her family's summer home. Following the outbreak of
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
, Jeanne joined the Civil Aeronautics Administration as a
cartographer Cartography (; from , 'papyrus, sheet of paper, map'; and , 'write') is the study and practice of making and using maps. Combining science, aesthetics and technique, cartography builds on the premise that reality (or an imagined reality) can ...
, where she met her future husband, Lieutenant Edward A. Campbell. They had a son and daughter, Edward and Jean. Jean described her mother as being strong-willed and stern but nontraditional, and fiercely ambitious, maintaining a well-groomed appearance while also being prepared to do hard work herself, such as putting up a ceiling. In 1964, Jeanne divorced Edward Campbell, and moved to
Westhampton, New York Westhampton is a Hamlet (New York), hamlet and census-designated place (CDP) in Suffolk County, New York, Suffolk County, New York (state), New York, United States. The population was 3,079 at the 2010 census. Westhampton is in the Administrative ...
, where she ran a bed-and-breakfast business from a house that they had converted there. She continued to commute from Westhampton to work until her retirement in 1977, while maintaining the bed-and-breakfast business until shortly before her death. Jeanne Campbell died in 2002 following a stroke, aged 82, at her daughter's home in
Oxford, New York Oxford is a town in Chenango County, New York, United States. The town contains a village A village is a human settlement or community, larger than a hamlet but smaller than a town with a population typically ranging from a few hu ...
, survived by her children and her ex-husband.


Career

The Campbells relocated to New York after the War, and Jeanne started working as a designer for a company called Loomtags. During her time there she won a 1951 Merit Award from '' Mademoiselle'', and was recruited the same year to design for Sportswhirl under the "Jeanne Campbell for Sportwhirl” label. Campbell was known for her classic, understated designs that were designed to be stylish rather than trendy, and described her work as "a no-age, no-price look, and it's up to the person who wears it to make the look.” One of her signature designs was the
sheath dress In fashion, a sheath dress is a fitted, straight cut dress, often nipped at the waistline with no waist seam. When constructing the dress, the bodice and skirt are joined together by combining the skirt darts into one dart: this aligns the skirt ...
, which she is credited with popularizing. She was credited with helping popularize the market for affordable separates in the mid-20th century. Her designs were modeled on magazine covers such as ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** '' Vogue Adria'', a fashion magazine for former Yugoslav countries ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ' ...
'', ''
Harper's Bazaar ''Harper's Bazaar'' (stylized as ''Harper's BAZAAR'') is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. Bazaar has been published in New York City since November 2, 1867, originally as a weekly publication entitled ''Harper's Bazar''."Corporat ...
'' and '' Glamour'', and worn by
Ava Gardner Ava Lavinia Gardner (December 24, 1922 – January 25, 1990) was an American actress during the Golden Age of Hollywood. She first signed a contract with Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer in 1941 and appeared mainly in small roles until she drew critics' att ...
,
Lynda Bird Johnson Lynda Bird Johnson Robb (born March 19, 1944) is the elder daughter of the 36th U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson and former First Lady Lady Bird Johnson. She served as chairwoman of the Board of Reading is Fundamental, the nation's largest child ...
, and
Liza Minnelli Liza May Minnelli ( ; born March 12, 1946) is an American actress, singer, and dancer. Known for her commanding stage presence and powerful alto singing voice, Minnelli has received numerous accolades including an Academy Award, a BAFTA Award, ...
. In 1961, ''
Life Life, also known as biota, refers to matter that has biological processes, such as Cell signaling, signaling and self-sustaining processes. It is defined descriptively by the capacity for homeostasis, Structure#Biological, organisation, met ...
'' cited Campbell as one of the leading designers of junior fashion alongside
Anne Fogarty Anne Fogarty (February 2, 1919 – January 15, 1980) was an American fashion designer, active 1940–1980, who was noted for her understated, ladylike designs that were accessible to American women on a limited income.Anne Klein and Eloise Curtis; specifically noting Campbell's unusual colour use and surprising fabrics as well as her affordability. The four women were also noted as being multiple award-winning "influential stylesetters" who, by wearing their own clothes, proved that wearing "junior fashion" was not about being young, but having the right attitude and personal style. Campbell was awarded the 1955
Coty Award The Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards (awarded 1943–1984) were created in 1942 by the cosmetics and perfume company Coty to promote and celebrate American fashion, and encourage design during the Second World War. In 1985, the Coty Awards we ...
for her knit sheaths, and the 1958 American Sportswear Designer of the Year Award from ''
Sports Illustrated ''Sports Illustrated'' (''SI'') is an American sports magazine first published in August 1954. Founded by Stuart Scheftel, it was the first magazine with a circulation of over one million to win the National Magazine Award for General Excellen ...
''. The latter award, which was voted for by six hundred fashion retailers and executives, was the first time that all the winners of the Sports Illustrated Award had been women, with the other recipients being
Bonnie Cashin Bonnie Cashin (September 28, 1908 – February 3, 2000) was an American fashion designer. Considered a pioneer in the design of American sportswear, she created innovative, uncomplicated clothing that catered to the modern, independent woman begi ...
and the swimwear designer Rose Marie Reid, who each received a newly-designed trophy depicting a wire
dress form A dress form is a Three-dimensional space, three-dimensional model of the human torso used for fitting clothes, clothing that is being designed or sewing, sewed. When making a piece of clothing, it can be put on the dress form so that one can s ...
. Campbell's trophy was inscribed "To the women's sportswear designer who, during the past year, has made the most significant contribution to American sportswear through a specific collection, idea or innovation." Later, in 1970, she was one of 15 American designers to be named by ''
Women's Wear Daily ''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides i ...
'' as the Women of the Year. Campbell retired from Sportwhirl in 1977, but continued to support young designers both in New York at the
Parsons School of Design The Parsons School of Design is a private art and design college under The New School located in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of New York City. Founded in 1896 after a group of progressive artists broke away from established Manhattan art ...
as an instructor and judge, and regularly traveling abroad as a consultant to fashion industries and a fashion design tutor in
Barbados Barbados, officially the Republic of Barbados, is an island country in the Atlantic Ocean. It is part of the Lesser Antilles of the West Indies and the easternmost island of the Caribbean region. It lies on the boundary of the South American ...
and Peru. When she died, Parsons established a scholarship in her name.


References


External links

* {{DEFAULTSORT:Campbell, Jeanne 1919 births 2002 deaths American women fashion designers American fashion designers People from Pittsburgh