The is a

mountaineering Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become mounta ...

and

climbing Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders) to small boulders. Climbing is done for locom ...

organisation based in

Tokyo Tokyo, officially the Tokyo Metropolis, is the capital of Japan, capital and List of cities in Japan, most populous city in Japan. With a population of over 14 million in the city proper in 2023, it is List of largest cities, one of the most ...

, Japan.

History

The Japanese Alpine Club was founded in October 1905 as the first mountaineering club in Asia. In late 19th century modern alpinism had been imported from Europe to Japan. The founding of JAC was inspired by the English

Alpine Club Alpine clubs are typically large social clubs that revolve around climbing, hiking, and other outdoor activities. Many alpine clubs also take on aspects typically reserved for local sport associations, providing education and training courses, se ...

. In 1936 a JAC expedition made first ascent of

Nanda Kot Nanda Kot ( Kumaoni-नन्दा कोट) is a mountain peak of the Himalaya range located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand state in India. It lies in the Kumaon Himalaya, just outside the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi ...

(6,861 m / 22,510 ft) in Garhwal Himalaya. This is the first assault by the Japanese in the greater range of Himalaya. The most famous JAC expedition was 1956 the first ascent of

Manaslu Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...

(8,163 m / 26,781 ft). Toshio Imanishi (Japan) and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa (Nepal) reached the summit on May 9, 1956. The club has a special focus on expeditions and exploration of remote areas. The JAC publishes the yearly magazine '' Japanese Alpine News'' (JAN).

Expeditions (selection)

* 1956: First ascent of

(8,163 m / 26,781 ft) by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa. * 1970: First ascent Southeast Ridge of

Makalu Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...

(8,485 m / 27,838 ft) by Yuichi Ozaki and Hajime Tanaka. * 1980: North face of

Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...

, by Japanese Couloir (FA) and Hornbein Couloir. * 1992: First ascent of

Namcha Barwa Namcha Barwa or Namchabarwa (; Chinese: 南迦巴瓦峰, Pinyin: ''Nánjiābāwǎ Fēng'') is a mountain peak lying in Tibet in the region of Pemako. The traditional definition of the Himalaya extending from the Indus River to the Brahmaputra ...

(7,782 m / 25,531 ft). * 1996: First ascent of Ultar II (7,388 m / 24,238 ft) by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka.Japanese Alpine Club
''JAC Expeditions''
, Retrieved 30 June 2015.

References

External links

{{Authority control Sports governing bodies in Japan Mountaineering in Japan Climbing and mountaineering organizations Alpine clubs 1905 establishments in Japan