Janga (mountain)
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Janga ( ka, ჯანღა ) or Jangi-Tau () or Dzhangi-Tau () is a
summit A summit is a point on a surface that is higher in elevation than all points immediately adjacent to it. The topographic terms acme, apex, peak (mountain peak), and zenith are synonymous. The term (mountain top) is generally used only for ...
in the central part of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. Mountain has three peaks - the main peak Jangi-Tau with elevation above sea level , West Peak with elevation and East Peak with elevation Mountain lies on the
border Borders are generally defined as geography, geographical boundaries, imposed either by features such as oceans and terrain, or by polity, political entities such as governments, sovereign states, federated states, and other administrative divisio ...
of
Svaneti Svaneti (Svan language, Svan: შუ̂ან, ლემშუ̂ანიერა; ''shwan, lemshwaniera'', and Suania in ancient sources; ka, სვანეთი ) is a historic province in the northwestern part of Georgia (country), Georg ...
(
Georgia Georgia most commonly refers to: * Georgia (country), a country in the South Caucasus * Georgia (U.S. state), a state in the southeastern United States Georgia may also refer to: People and fictional characters * Georgia (name), a list of pe ...
) and
Kabardino-Balkaria Kabardino-Balkaria (), officially the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, is a republic of Russia located in the North Caucasus. As of the 2021 Census, its population was 904,200. Its capital is Nalchik. The area contains the highest mountain in ...
(
Russia Russia, or the Russian Federation, is a country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia. It is the list of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the world, and extends across Time in Russia, eleven time zones, sharing Borders ...
). The slopes of the mountain are heavily glaciated. They are most famous for the dormant volcanoes that are hidden under the ice caps.


History

On September 12, 1888, English climber John Garforth Cockin with Swiss guides
Ulrich Almer Ulrich Almer (8 May 1849 in Grindelwald – 4 September 1940) was a Swiss mountain guide. He made many premieres in the Alps with his father Christian Almer, one of the great guides of the golden age of mountaineering, and was one of the first Swi ...
and Christian Roth, were the first to climb East Janga, who had climbed the main ridge a few days earlier, and later -
Ushba Ushba ( ka, უშბა) is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 highe ...
and
Dykh-Tau Dykh-Tau or Dykhtau (; , derived from Turkic "dik dagh" which means 'Jagged Mount'), is the second-highest mountain in Russia and Europe with an elevation of 5,205 m (17,077 ft) above sea level. It is located in Kabardino-Balkaria, Russia; its ...
.J. G. Cockin, « ''Shkara, Janga, and Ushba'' », ''The Alpine Journal'', vol. XVI, n° 122, novembre 1893, pp. 477-494 - reproduced in Douglas W. Freshfield,
The exploration of Caucasus
', E. Arnold, 1896, Volume II, pp. 38-58
The most difficult, 5 B category ( Russian Grading) route (south-western wall) was first traced by Georgian mountaineers (Grisha Gulbani - group leader Giorgi Berdzenishvili, Jokia Gugava, Sozar Gugava, Ilo Kavlashvili, Suliko Khabeishvili). The first ascent to the main Janga also belongs to foreign climbers.Jangha
The Olympians Club of Georgia
On July 23, 1935, they climbed the peak of the north-eastern ridge (5 A category, Russian Grading ) to R. Schwarzgruber (group leader) v. Marini, f. Peringer et al. Thaler. Only one route passes through the Khalde Glacier. In 1965, Givi Kartvelishvili (group leader), Tamaz Bakanidze, Nugzar Bakradze, Besik Bakradze, Tengiz Berishvili and Dimitri Sharashenidze reached the peak of the main wall through the south wall of the USSR championship program. West Janga is the most inaccessible among the peaks of the array. It cannot be taken from the north due to "frost and avalanche" danger. There are two routes from Khalde Glacier (1960 - Otar Khazaradze, 1964 - I. Reformatorski).


References

Mountains of Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti Mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria Georgia (country)–Russia border International mountains of Europe Five-thousanders of the Caucasus {{Georgia-geo-stub