Jan Hojer
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Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional
rock climber Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...
specializing in
sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
,
bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
, and
competition climbing Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing, rock-climbing competition held indoor climbing, indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition ...
. He is known for winning one
World Cup A world cup is a global sporting competition in which the participant entities – usually international teams or individuals representing their countries – compete for the title of world champion. The event most associated with the name is ...
and two
European Championships A European Championship is the top level international sports competition between European athletes or sports teams representing their respective countries or professional sports clubs. In the plural, the European Championships also refers t ...
in
competition bouldering Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead ...
. In May 2010, he climbed '' Action Directe'', one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several boulder problems.


Climbing career


Competition climbing

Hojer started participating in German
Lead climbing Lead climbing (or leading) is a technique in rock climbing where the 'lead climber' Glossary of climbing terms#clip in, clips their rope to the climbing protection as they ascend a pitch (climbing), pitch of the climbing route, while their 'seco ...
youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in
bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015. In 2015 and 2017 he won the
Climbing European Championships The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992. Championships 1 ...
in Bouldering. Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in
Wrocław Wrocław is a city in southwestern Poland, and the capital of the Lower Silesian Voivodeship. It is the largest city and historical capital of the region of Silesia. It lies on the banks of the Oder River in the Silesian Lowlands of Central Eu ...
, Poland. Hojer has won
national championships A national championship(s) is the top achievement for any sport or competition, contest within a league of a particular nation or nation state. The title is usually awarded by contests, ranking systems, stature, ability, etc. This determines the be ...
in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed. In 2019 Hojer qualified for the
2020 Summer Olympics The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...
through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in
Toulouse Toulouse (, ; ; ) is a city in southern France, the Prefectures in France, prefecture of the Haute-Garonne department and of the Occitania (administrative region), Occitania region. The city is on the banks of the Garonne, River Garonne, from ...
. Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.


Rock climbing

He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the
sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
route, '' Action Directe''. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor
bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
problems at the grade of . In 2018, he made the third ascent of the
deep-water soloing Deep-water soloing (DWS), also known as psicobloc (from "psycho-bouldering"), is a form of free solo climbing where any fall should result in the climber landing safely into deep water below the climbing routes, route. DWS is therefore considere ...
route, ''
Es Pontàs Es Pontàs ("the big bridge" in the Catalan language) is a natural arch made from limestone in the southeastern part of the island of Mallorca in Spain. The arch is located on the coastline between the Cala Santanyí and Cala Llombards in the muni ...
'' at .


Results


Climbing World Cup


Climbing World Championships


Climbing European Championships


Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup


Bouldering


Rock climbing


Redpointed routes

: :* ''
Es Pontàs Es Pontàs ("the big bridge" in the Catalan language) is a natural arch made from limestone in the southeastern part of the island of Mallorca in Spain. The arch is located on the coastline between the Cala Santanyí and Cala Llombards in the muni ...
'' - Mallorca ( ESP) - October, 2018 : :*'' Action Directe'' -
Frankenjura Franconian Switzerland (, ) is an upland in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany and a popular tourist retreat. Located between the River Pegnitz in the east and the south, the River Regnitz in the west and the River Main in the north, its relie ...
( DEU)- May 22, 2010 : :* ''Pati noso'' - Siurana ( ESP) - April 27, 2011 :* ''Bah Bah Black Sheep'' -
Céüse Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - July 22, 2010


Boulder problems

: :* ''Quoi de Neuf'' -
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - November 21, 2017 :* ''From Dirt Grows the Flowers'' - Chironico ( CHE) - March 8, 2015 :*'' The Story of Two Worlds'' - Cresciano ( CHE) - April 11, 2014 :* ''Le Marathon de Boissy'' -
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - March 2014 - First ascent. :* ''Trip Hop'' -
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - October 2013 :* ''The Big Island'' -
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - January 2013. : :* ''Jour de Chasse'' -
Fontainebleau Fontainebleau ( , , ) is a Communes of France, commune in the Functional area (France), metropolitan area of Paris, France. It is located south-southeast of the Kilometre zero#France, centre of Paris. Fontainebleau is a Subprefectures in Franc ...
(
FRA Fra is a title of a friar. Fra or FRA may also refer to: Codes * fra, the ISO 639-2 code for the French language * FRA, the ISO 3166-1 alpha-3 code for France * FRA, the IOC country code for France at the Olympics * Framingham station, Amtra ...
) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb. :* ''
Dreamtime The Dreaming, also referred to as Dreamtime, is a term devised by early anthropologists to refer to a religio-cultural worldview attributed to Australian Aboriginal religion and mythology, Australian Aboriginal mythology. It was originally u ...
'' - Cresciano ( CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
/ref>


References


External links

*
Jan Hojer on digitalrock.de

Hojer's ascents on 8a.nu
* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Hojer, Jan 1992 births Living people German rock climbers World Games silver medalists for Germany World Games medalists in sport climbing Sportspeople from Cologne Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics Olympic sport climbers for Germany IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Boulder climbers German competition climbers Medalists at the 2017 World Games