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The term jama ( Hindustani: जामा, جام ; Bengali: জামা; Odia: ଜାମା ) refers to a long coat which was popular in
]Some styles of the jama were tight around the torso but flared out like a skirt to below the knees or the ankles.
* The chakman jama, ended at around the knees. The sleeves tended to be full. The jama was fastened to either side with strings with some styles also opening at the front. What was originally male dress was also adopted by women who wore the jama with a scarf and tight fitting pajamas. The ties of the upper half of the jama are taken under the armpit and across the chest.
* ''Chakdar jama'' Jama with chaks (slits) was a particular style of jama. It was the pointed jama which was like the standard Mughal jama but the skirt fell in four to six points instead of the circular hem of the Mughal jama. This jama may be derived from the Rajput court's takauchiah and therefore could be of local origin.
* During the Sikh Empire, Sikh reign the jama was no longer flowing but shorter and often tucked up around the waist to allow freedom of movement. A similar dress, called the ''chola'', was worn by the Sikhs Gurus.
* During the 19th and 20th centuries A.D. the jama was reduced to a shirt like garment in the northern (upper) parts of British India.
* Farzi (coat) was a coat with short sleeves and
File:The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi.jpg, The commander of the Imperial Guard of Delhi
File:Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II.jpg, Ghulam Murtaza Khan The Delhi Darbar of Akbar II
File:Asifportrait2 - Asuf ud Daula.jpg, NAWAB OF OUDH, ASAF-UD-DAULA, LUCKNOW, INDIA, CIRCA 1785–90
File:Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad.jpg, Nawab Shuja al-Daula and his heir Asaf al-Daula in Faizabad
File:Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India.jpg, Three men in traditional dress, mosaic, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India
File:Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh.jpg, Raja Ravi Varma, Maharaja Fateh Singh
File:The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735 Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris.jpg, The vizier Qamar ud-Din circa 1735
File:Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas.jpg, Akbar and Tansen visit Haridas
File:The Adventures of Akbar artillery.jpg,
File:Navratri Garba.jpg, Man on the left in Gujarati jama/angarkha
South Asia
South Asia is the southern Subregion#Asia, subregion of Asia that is defined in both geographical and Ethnicity, ethnic-Culture, cultural terms. South Asia, with a population of 2.04 billion, contains a quarter (25%) of the world's populatio ...
during the early modern era.
Styles
]Some styles of the jama were tight around the torso but flared out like a skirt to below the knees or the ankles.
* The chakman jama, ended at around the knees. The sleeves tended to be full. The jama was fastened to either side with strings with some styles also opening at the front. What was originally male dress was also adopted by women who wore the jama with a scarf and tight fitting pajamas. The ties of the upper half of the jama are taken under the armpit and across the chest.
* ''Chakdar jama'' Jama with chaks (slits) was a particular style of jama. It was the pointed jama which was like the standard Mughal jama but the skirt fell in four to six points instead of the circular hem of the Mughal jama. This jama may be derived from the Rajput court's takauchiah and therefore could be of local origin.
* During the Sikh Empire, Sikh reign the jama was no longer flowing but shorter and often tucked up around the waist to allow freedom of movement. A similar dress, called the ''chola'', was worn by the Sikhs Gurus.
* During the 19th and 20th centuries A.D. the jama was reduced to a shirt like garment in the northern (upper) parts of British India.
* Farzi (coat) was a coat with short sleeves and fur
A fur is a soft, thick growth of hair that covers the skin of almost all mammals. It consists of a combination of oily guard hair on top and thick underfur beneath. The guard hair keeps moisture from reaching the skin; the underfur acts as an ...
collars, opened in front. The length was shorter than Jama. Farzi was a winter's garment. Mughal emperors
The emperors of the Mughal Empire, who were all members of the Timurid dynasty ( House of Babur), ruled the empire from its inception on 21 April 1526 to its dissolution on 21 September 1857. They were supreme monarchs of the Mughal Empire i ...
and courtiers were wearing it over the Jama, fastened with a decorated piece of cloth, i.e., Katzeb
''Katzeb'' (''kamarband, Kayabandh, Cummerbund'') was an article of dress encircling the body, at the waist with ends hanging in the front. It was a kind of sash also called ''patka''.
Name
''Katzeb'' is a compound word. The Sanskrit word ''Ka ...
around the waist area with loosely hanging ends.
*Hindu and Muslim Jamas – Hindus and Muslims were wearing the same garment with little different styles, Hindus were fastening the Jama on the left side of the body, and the Muslims tied it on the right-hand side.
''Nimjama'' ''(Neema or Nima)'' was an undergarment
Underwear, underclothing, or undergarments are items of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, although they may comprise more than a single layer. They serve to keep outer clothing from being soiled ...
for the upper body
Body may refer to:
In science
* Physical body, an object in physics that represents a large amount, has mass or takes up space
* Body (biology), the physical material of an organism
* Body plan, the physical features shared by a group of anim ...
. The courtiers
A courtier () is a person who attends the royal court of a monarch or other Royal family, royalty. The earliest historical examples of courtiers were part of the retinues of rulers. Historically the court was the centre of government as well as ...
wore it underneath the costumes
Costume is the distinctive style of clothing, dress and/or cosmetics, makeup of an individual or group that reflects class, gender, occupation, ethnicity, nationality, activity or epoch—in short, culture.
The term also was traditionally used ...
, such as Jama (coat). The style was similar to a vest
A waistcoat ( UK and Commonwealth, or ; colloquially called a weskit) or vest ( US and Canada) is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men's formal wear. It ...
half sleeves garment. Nimajama was aided with strings to tie in front; the length was up to the knees only, shorter than the Jama. It was an indispensable part of the Mughal attire.
Photo gallery
Mughal Army
The army of the Mughal Empire was the force by which the Mughal emperors established their empire in the 16th century and expanded it to its greatest extent at the beginning of the 18th century. Although its origins, like the Mughals themselve ...
artillery
Artillery consists of ranged weapons that launch Ammunition, munitions far beyond the range and power of infantry firearms. Early artillery development focused on the ability to breach defensive walls and fortifications during sieges, and l ...
men during the reign of Akbar
Akbar (Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar, – ), popularly known as Akbar the Great, was the third Mughal emperor, who reigned from 1556 to 1605. Akbar succeeded his father, Humayun, under a regent, Bairam Khan, who helped the young emperor expa ...
.
File:Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho).jpg, Officer of the Mughal Army, c.1585 (colour litho)
Modern use
InGujarat
Gujarat () is a States of India, state along the Western India, western coast of India. Its coastline of about is the longest in the country, most of which lies on the Kathiawar peninsula. Gujarat is the List of states and union territories ...
, the jama began to lose popularity by the end of the 19th century A.D. However, men in parts of Kutch still wear the jama also known as the angarkha
Angarkha is an outer robe with long sleeves which was worn by men in South Asia. By the 19th-century it had become the generally accepted attire of an educated man in public. It had evolved from the Persian cape ''balaba'' or ''chapkan'' as a ...
which has an asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips. However, some styles fall to below the knees.
See also
* Dashiki *Kaftan
A kaftan or caftan (; , ; , ; ) is a variant of the robe or tunic. Originating in Asia, it has been worn by a number of cultures around the world for thousands of years. In Russian usage, ''kaftan'' instead refers to a style of men's long suit ...
* Robe
A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word ''robe'' derives from Middle English ''robe'' ("garment"), borrowed from Old French ''robe'' ("booty, spoil ...
* Tunic
A tunic is a garment for the torso, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the ankles. It might have arm-sleeves, either short or full-length. Most forms have no fastenings. The name deri ...
* Terlig
* Angarkha
Angarkha is an outer robe with long sleeves which was worn by men in South Asia. By the 19th-century it had become the generally accepted attire of an educated man in public. It had evolved from the Persian cape ''balaba'' or ''chapkan'' as a ...
* Kurta
A ''kurta'' is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, (subscription required) Quote: "A loose shirt or tunic worn by men and women." Quote: "Kurta: a loose shirt without a collar, worn by women and men from South ...
* Katzeb
''Katzeb'' (''kamarband, Kayabandh, Cummerbund'') was an article of dress encircling the body, at the waist with ends hanging in the front. It was a kind of sash also called ''patka''.
Name
''Katzeb'' is a compound word. The Sanskrit word ''Ka ...
* Farzi (coat)
References
{{Punjabi clothing Mughal clothing