Jakob Schubert
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Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an
Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...
n professional
rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...
, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021) and World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in
Lead climbing Lead climbing is a climbing style, predominantly used in rock climbing. In a roped party one climber has to take the lead while the other climbers follow. The ''lead climber'' wears a harness attached to a climbing rope, which in turn is connect ...
. He has redpointed to . In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Shubert had won the most men’s IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history.


Biography

He started climbing in 2003, when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in the World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven world Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering. In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in
Arco ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six). In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in
Paris Paris () is the capital and most populous city of France, with an estimated population of 2,165,423 residents in 2019 in an area of more than 105 km² (41 sq mi), making it the 30th most densely populated city in the world in 2020. ...
. In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time. In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and home town, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athle ...
(36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Skofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup. Schubert's performance at the
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 1 ...
qualified him for a place at the
Tokyo 2020 Olympics The , officially the and also known as , was an international multi-sport event held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some preliminary events that began on 21 July. Tokyo was selected as the List of Olympic Games h ...
where he won Bronze.


Rankings


Climbing World Cup


Climbing World Championships

Youth Adult


Climbing European Championships


Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup


Lead


Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup


Lead


Bouldering


Rock climbing


Redpointed routes

: :* ''Perfecto Mundo'' - Margalef ( ESP) - November 9, 2019 - Third ascent (first by
Alexander Megos Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb on the first try without prior practice or advice) a route graded . He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notor ...
) : :* ''Neanderthal'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - December 28, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''El Bon Combat'' -
Cova de I'Ocell Cova or COVA may refer to: Places and jurisdictions Algeria * Cova, North Africa, the Ancient Roman city and modern Catholic titular see located at modern Ziama Mansouriah Cape Verde * Cova Figueira, a small city in the island of Fogo * Cov ...
( ESP) - December 1, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''Stoking the Fire'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - January 5, 2018 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013) :* ''La Planta da Shiva'' -
Villanueva del Rosario Villanueva del Rosario is a town and municipality in the province of Málaga in the autonomous community of Andalusia in southern Spain. It is located off the motorway from Málaga to Granada and Seville. It is situated in the northeast of the pr ...
( ESP) - January 4, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra :* ''Fight or flight'' - Oliana ( ) - December 31, 2014 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011) :* ''Catxasa'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - January 9, 2018 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''Seleccio Anal'' - Oliana ( ESP) - January 8, 2017 :* ''Pachamama'' - Oliana ( ESP) - January 2, 2017 - Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009) :* ''Joe Mama'' - Oliana ( ESP) - December 27, 2016 - Second ascent after Chris Sharma :* ''Kangroo Limb'' - Flatanger ( NOR) - May 29, 2016 - Second ascent after Adam Ondra :* ''Companion of Change'' -
Zillertal The Ziller Valley (german: Zillertal) is a valley in Tyrol, Austria that is drained by the Ziller River. It is the widest valley south of the Inn Valley (german: Inntal) and lends its name to the Zillertal Alps, the strongly glaciated section of ...
(
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) * Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations * Arr ...
) - November 18, 2015 - First ascent :* ''Papichulo'' - Oliana ( ESP) - April 27, 2011 - Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008) : :* ''Kein Licht Kein Schatten'' -
Ötztal The Ötztal is an alpine valley located in Tyrol, Austria. The Ötztaler Ache river flows through the valley in a northern direction. The Ötztal separates the Stubai Alps in the east from the Ötztal Alps in the west. The valley is long. The no ...
( ) - November 8, 2016 - First ascent :* ''Kraftplatzl'' - Berglsteiner See (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) * Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations * Arr ...
) - October 15, 2016 - Second Ascent after David Lama :* ''Direct open your mind'' - Santa Linya ( ESP) - January 3, 2013 :* ''Fuck the System'' - Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013 :* ''Analogica Natural'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - January 2, 2013 :* ''Seleccio Natural'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 28, 2012 :* ''Ciudad de Dios'' - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 24, 2012 :* ''Martin Krpan'' - Misja Pec ( ) - November 21, 2011 :* ''Hades'' - Nassereith, Götterwand (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) * Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations * Arr ...
) - May 30, 2010 - First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 :* ''Underground'' - Massone,
Arco ARCO ( ) is a brand of gasoline stations currently owned by Marathon Petroleum after BP sold its rights. BP commercializes the brand in Northern California, Oregon and Washington, while Marathon has rights for the rest of the United States an ...
(
ITA Ita or ITA may refer to : Places and jurisdictions * ITA, ISO 3166-1 country code for Italy * Ita (Africa), an ancient city and former bishopric in Roman Mauretania, presently a Latin Catholic titular see * Itá, Paraguay People * Ita (prin ...
) - March 30, 2010 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998


Onsight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related to rock climbing and mountaineering. The specific terms used can vary considerably between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases d ...
ed routes

: :* ''Aitzol'' - Margalef ( ESP) - April 23, 2011 :


Boulder problems

:8C (V15) :*''Sierra Madre'' - Zillertal (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) * Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations * Arr ...
) - November 20, 2018 : 8B+ (V14) :*''Witness the fitness'' - Cova de Ocell ( ESP) - January 13, 2019 - flashed :*''Hide and Sick'' - Maltatal (
AUT AUT may refer to the following. Locations *Austria (ISO 3166-1 country code) * Agongointo-Zoungoudo Underground Town, Benin *Aktio–Preveza Undersea Tunnel, Greece *Airstrip on Atauro Island, East Timor (IATA airport code) Organizations * Arr ...
) - March 25, 2018 :*''Off the Wagon -'' Val Bavona ( CHE) January 10, 2020 :


See also

*
List of grade milestones in rock climbing In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent ...
*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advance ...
* Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals


References


External links

* * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Schubert, Jakob Austrian rock climbers Living people 1990 births Sportspeople from Innsbruck Competitors at the 2013 World Games World Games silver medalists Competitors at the 2009 World Games Olympic sport climbers of Austria Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics Medalists at the 2020 Summer Olympics Olympic bronze medalists for Austria Olympic medalists in sport climbing