Jabal Marrah
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The Marrah Mountains or Marra Mountains (
Fur A fur is a soft, thick growth of hair that covers the skin of almost all mammals. It consists of a combination of oily guard hair on top and thick underfur beneath. The guard hair keeps moisture from reaching the skin; the underfur acts as an ...
, Fugo Marra; , Jebel Marra) are a range of volcanic peaks in a
massif A massif () is a principal mountain mass, such as a compact portion of a mountain range, containing one or more summits (e.g. France's Massif Central). In mountaineering literature, ''massif'' is frequently used to denote the main mass of an ...
that rises up to . They are the highest mountains in
Sudan Sudan, officially the Republic of the Sudan, is a country in Northeast Africa. It borders the Central African Republic to the southwest, Chad to the west, Libya to the northwest, Egypt to the north, the Red Sea to the east, Eritrea and Ethiopi ...
.


Geography

The mountains are located in the center of the
Darfur Darfur ( ; ) is a region of western Sudan. ''Dār'' is an Arabic word meaning "home f – the region was named Dardaju () while ruled by the Daju, who migrated from Meroë , and it was renamed Dartunjur () when the Tunjur ruled the area. ...
region of
Sudan Sudan, officially the Republic of the Sudan, is a country in Northeast Africa. It borders the Central African Republic to the southwest, Chad to the west, Libya to the northwest, Egypt to the north, the Red Sea to the east, Eritrea and Ethiopi ...
on the border of the states of
South Darfur South Darfur State ( Wilāyat Ǧanūb Dārfūr; Janob Darfor) is one of the States of Sudan, wilayat or states of Sudan. It is one of the five states that compose the Darfur, region of Darfur in western Sudan. Overview Prior to the creation of t ...
and
Central Darfur Central Darfur State () is a state in south-western Sudan, and one of five comprising the Darfur region. It was created in January 2012 as a result of the ongoing peace process for the wider Darfur region. The state capital is Zalingei. The sta ...
, with a smaller part of the range in the state of
North Darfur North Darfur State ( Wilāyat Šamāl Dārfūr; ''Shamal Darfor'') is one of the wilayat or states of Sudan. It is one of the five states composing the Darfur region. It has an area of 296,420 km2 and an estimated population of approximat ...
. The highest point is Deriba Caldera. The upper reaches of the massif is a small area of temperate climate with high rainfall and permanent springs of water amidst the dry savanna and scrub of the
Sahel The Sahel region (; ), or Sahelian acacia savanna, is a Biogeography, biogeographical region in Africa. It is the Ecotone, transition zone between the more humid Sudanian savannas to its south and the drier Sahara to the north. The Sahel has a ...
below. Apart from the
Aïr Mountains The Aïr Mountains or Aïr Massif (Air Tamajeq language, Tamajăq: ''Ayǝr''; Hausa language, Hausa: Eastern ''Azbin'', Western ''Abzin'') is a triangular massif, located in northern Niger, within the Sahara. Part of the West Sa ...
in Niger which are on the border of the Sahara proper, the Marrah Mountains are the only major mountain range in the otherwise flat Sahel, rising up to above the plain, but are relatively unknown owing to lack of development and political conflict in the region. The last eruption occurred around 1500 BC. The centre of activity was Deriba Caldera, and involved
caldera A caldera ( ) is a large cauldron-like hollow that forms shortly after the emptying of a magma chamber in a volcanic eruption. An eruption that ejects large volumes of magma over a short period of time can cause significant detriment to the str ...
collapse following the eruption of
pumice Pumice (), called pumicite in its powdered or dust form, is a volcanic rock that consists of extremely vesicular rough-textured volcanic glass, which may or may not contain crystals. It is typically light-colored. Scoria is another vesicula ...
and
pyroclastic flow A pyroclastic flow (also known as a pyroclastic density current or a pyroclastic cloud) is a fast-moving current of hot gas and volcanic matter (collectively known as tephra) that flows along the ground away from a volcano at average speeds of b ...
s which travelled over from the volcano. The vegetation was described by Gerald Wickens.


Description of the lakes

The two lakes at Deriba, as described by Hobbs' 1918 notes, were presumably the only two in Jebel Marra. Hobbs situated them at an altitude of approximately 518 m (1700 feet, as indicated in his note) above the plain and 1,463 m (4,804 feet) above sea level (modern measurements, however, indicate 2100 m). They were described as being located within a vast amphitheatre, approximately 4.8 to 6.4 km (3 to 4 miles) in diameter, formed by a continuous circular (or slightly oval) range of steeply sloping heights, varying from about 244 to 610 m (800 to 2,000 feet) above the surrounding area. The larger lake, known as the "''female''", lay in the northeast corner of the amphitheatre. It measured approximately in length, in width, and had a circumference of about . Its water, with a high salinity, appeared murky green and emitted an unpleasant odour. Although time constraints prevented soundings, it was inferred that the lake was shallow except in its northern part. The smaller lake, dubbed as "male", situated around south, had fresher water. Its dimensions were approximately in length, in width, with a circumference of about . Rising nearly vertically from the water's edge, the crater walls reached heights of around , except for the northern rim, which sloped gently. Like its counterpart, this lake exhibited a greenish hue and a faint sulphuric aroma. Since the first exploration by Hobbs and Gillan in 1918 (Gillan 1918, Hobbs 1918.), Jebel Marra has been visited by many geologists, botanists and zoologists. In 1964 an expedition made the first biological survey of the streams and two Deriba lakes. The hydrobiological importance of Jebel Marra stems from the isolation of these waters near the geographical centre of the African continent, coupled with the known chemical differences between the various streams and lakes (Hunting Technical Services, 1958). During the five-week expedition, numerous samples were collected from various sites, including the two saline crater lakes. Chemical analyses were conducted both in the field and at the University of Khartoum. The team also conducted the first bathymetric survey of the lakes, using a calibrated echo sounder and an inflatable rubber dinghy. The larger lake was found to be shallow, with a maximum depth of , while the smaller lake featured unique characteristics, including a conical funnel. Further investigation, including depth checks using a variety of methods, revealed evidence of significant water level rises in both lakes in relatively recent times. Clear evidence of former beach levels suggested abrupt rises, probably caused by large landslides on the unstable inner walls of the crater. Evidence from dead trees and comparison with historical maps and photographs revealed changes in lake dimensions and levels over time. The study concluded by suggesting a steady rise in the level of the great lake due to the influx of sediment, which could lead to its eventual disappearance.


History

During the
War in Darfur The War in Darfur, also nicknamed the Land Cruiser War, was a major armed conflict in the Darfur region of Sudan that began in February 2003 when the Sudan Liberation Movement/Army, Sudan Liberation Movement (SLM) and the Justice and Equalit ...
, the Marrah Mountains came under the control of the rebel
Sudan Liberation Movement/Army The Sudan Liberation Movement/Army ( ''Ḥarakat Taḥrīr as-Sūdān''; abbreviated SLM, SLA, or SLM/A) is a Sudanese rebel group active in Darfur, Sudan. It was founded as the Darfur Liberation FrontFlint, Julie and De Waal, Alexander (20 ...
faction loyal to
Abdul Wahid al Nur Abdul (also transliterated as Abdal, Abdel, Abdil, Abdol, Abdool, or Abdoul; , ) is the most frequent transliteration of the combination of the Arabic word '' Abd'' (, meaning "Servant") and the definite prefix '' al / el'' (, meaning "the"). It ...
. The mountains remained one of the group's most important strongholds, housing several of its bases, as of 2021.


Geology

Jebel Marra, an extinct late Tertiary volcanic massif with a peak elevation of , extends north-south for about , widens to , and continues north for another . The Tagabo Hills and the Meidob Plateau, to the north-east of the range, are thought to be of volcanic origin. The plateau rests on Archean rocks on an uplift between the Chad and Middle Nile basins and extends westwards to the Sudanese border, forming an undulating peneplain called the Basement Complex, with elevations ranging from in the east to in the west. Isolated hills and ridges, such as the Tebella Massif, possibly remnants of an older erosional surface, dot the peneplain. To the southeast and south of Jebel Marra, the plateau maintains an elevation of , revealing Archaean rocks beneath sand and clay deposits at distances of from the base of the mountain. Similar features are observed in the west, including small plateaus and inselbergs such as the Dagu Hills and the Gennung at . The eastern and northern regions of Zalingei are dominated by acid crystalline schists and gneisses, while the western counterpart consists mainly of paraschists, calc-silicate gneisses and other rock formations. South of the Tebella massif, the Wadi Debarei basin appears to be a clinal trough intruded and occupied by foliated unfoliated granite. Geologists from the Sudan Geological Survey have recently carried out work near El Fasher and Nyala, but their results are not yet published. Jebel Nyala, the Dagu Jebels and the Wana Hills show granitic and gneissic compositions, while the areas between El Fasher and Nyala show predominantly quartzose rocks. About east of Jebel Marra, the Archaean rocks are covered by Nubian sandstones, with evidence of a westward extension near El Geneina. Recent geological surveys suggest the extensive presence of Nubian sandstones southwest of El Fasher under wind-borne sands, challenging previous beliefs. Limestone near Zalingei, derived from calcareous waters from springs, is the only recorded sedimentary deposit within the Archaean outcrop. Andrew (1948)Andrew, G. 1948 Geology of the Sudan, in Agriculture in the Sudan, J. pp. 84-129. Geoffrey Cumberledge, suggests that volcanic activity in Jebel Marra began in the Upper Tertiary (Miocene). The Deriba crater, thought to be a recent culmination, has a diameter of over and contains two lakes with distinct saline characteristics. Lava peaks surround the crater, one of which may be the highest point in the range. The volcanic history shows periods of continuous lava eruption, erosion and explosive events that shaped the existing large crater. Outlying volcanic areas and an intrusive phase represented by dykes near Kutum remain topics for further study. The region is characterised by widespread surficial deposits of fluviatile and aeolian origin, with the Wadi 'Azum and its tributaries showing broad channels and terraces. The eastward and southeastward flowing rivers have sandy beds that change to silts within of their sources. A large silt or clay plain north-east of Kutum is thought to be a playa, while a former erg, the qoz, retains dune relief, immobilised by the prevailing savannah. The W. Ibra conveys river runoff south of Jebel Marra, and the Qoz Dango continues the extension of the erg, with no western counterpart on the volcanic highlands. In summary, the geological and topographical features of Jebel Marra include its volcanic origin, diverse rock compositions, sedimentary deposits and history of volcanic activity. Ongoing geological surveys and the need for further investigation underline the complex nature of this region.


Footnotes


References

* {{Highest points of Africa Mountain ranges of Sudan Volcanoes of Sudan Volcanic fields Sahel Darfur