Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian
competition climber
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly ...
who has won multiple
competition speed climbing
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead ...
events and set multiple
world records
A world record is usually the best global and most important performance that is ever recorded and officially verified in a specific skill, sport, or other kind of activity. The book ''Guinness World Records'' and other world records organizatio ...
. She was the world record holder in women's speed climbing until 6 August 2021, setting the record at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow (6.964).
Her first participation in
World Cup
A world cup is a global sporting competition in which the participant entities – usually international teams or individuals representing their countries – compete for the title of world champion. The event most associated with the name is ...
was in 2012 in
Chamonix
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (; ; (no longer in use)), more commonly known simply as Chamonix (), is a communes of France, commune in the departments of France, department in the regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the f ...
where she ranked 18th. Her performance at the
IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 qualified her for a spot in the
2020 Summer Olympics
The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...
. There, she did not qualify for the final after failing to push the button at the top of the wall in her second try, leaving her with her initial time of 7.65 at the end, which was not enough to stay in the top 10 until the end of the qualification, as she did not show good enough results in the lead and bouldering events. In an interview with ''Sport-Express'' she stated that the Russians did not know about the opportunity to do test climbs before the actual qualification climbs; the organizers forbade test climbs for speed climbers during the qualification event. She explained that test climbs are important to understand the friction of the
holds and the climate of the surroundings.
«Мои слезы стали рекламой скалолазания». Скалолазка Каплина — о не нажатой в Токио кнопке
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Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
Source:
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Speed
References
External links
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Kaplina, Yulia
Living people
1993 births
Russian female climbers
Russian rock climbers
World Games gold medalists for Russia
World Games medalists in sport climbing
Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics
21st-century Russian sportswomen
IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Speed climbers
Russian competition climbers
Medalists at the 2013 World Games
Medalists at the 2017 World Games