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fluid dynamics In physics, physical chemistry and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids – liquids and gases. It has several subdisciplines, including (the study of air and other gases in motion ...
, the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface gravity waves on
beach A beach is a landform alongside a body of water which consists of loose particles. The particles composing a beach are typically made from Rock (geology), rock, such as sand, gravel, shingle beach, shingle, pebbles, etc., or biological s ...
es and
coast A coast (coastline, shoreline, seashore) is the land next to the sea or the line that forms the boundary between the land and the ocean or a lake. Coasts are influenced by the topography of the surrounding landscape and by aquatic erosion, su ...
al structures. The parameter is named after the Spanish engineer Ramón Iribarren Cavanilles (1900–1967), who introduced it to describe the occurrence of wave breaking on sloping beaches. The parameter used to describe breaking wave types on beaches; or wave run-up on – and reflection by – beaches, breakwaters and dikes. Iribarren's work was further developed by Jurjen Battjes in 1974, who named the parameter after Iribarren.


Definition

The Iribarren number which is often denoted as ''Ir'' or ''ξ'' – is defined as: :\xi = \frac, with L_0 = \frac\, T^2, where ''ξ'' is the Iribarren number, is the angle of the seaward slope of a structure, ''H'' is the wave height, ''L''0 is the deep-water
wavelength In physics and mathematics, wavelength or spatial period of a wave or periodic function is the distance over which the wave's shape repeats. In other words, it is the distance between consecutive corresponding points of the same ''phase (waves ...
, ''T'' is the period and ''g'' is the
gravitational acceleration In physics, gravitational acceleration is the acceleration of an object in free fall within a vacuum (and thus without experiencing drag (physics), drag). This is the steady gain in speed caused exclusively by gravitational attraction. All bodi ...
. Depending on the application, different definitions of ''H'' and ''T'' are used, for example: for periodic waves the wave height ''H''0 at deep water or the breaking wave height ''H''b at the edge of the surf zone. Or, for random waves, the
significant wave height In physical oceanography, the significant wave height (SWH, HTSGW or ''H''s) is defined traditionally as the mean ''wave height'' (trough (physics), trough to crest (physics), crest) of the highest third of the ocean surface wave, waves (''H''1/ ...
''H''s at a certain location.


Breaker types

The type of breaking wave – spilling, plunging, collapsing or surging – depends on the Iribarren number. According to , for periodic waves propagating on a plane beach, two possible choices for the Iribarren number are: :\xi_0 = \frac or \xi_b = \frac, where ''H''0 is the offshore wave height in deep water, and ''H''b is the value of the wave height at the break point (where the waves start to break). Then the breaker types dependence on the Iribarren number (either ''ξ''0 or ''ξ''b) is approximately:


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Other

* * * * * {{Physical oceanography Water waves Dimensionless numbers of fluid mechanics Coastal engineering