The Inventory of Elizabeth I recorded the costume and gold and silver plate belonging to

Elizabeth I Elizabeth I (7 September 153324 March 1603) was List of English monarchs, Queen of England and List of Irish monarchs, Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death in 1603. She was the last and longest reigning monarch of the House of Tudo ...

in several inventories, and other documents, including rolls of New Year's Day gifts. Arthur Jefferies Collins published the ''Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth I: The Inventory of 1574'' from manuscripts in 1955. The published inventory describes jewels and silver-plate belonging to Elizabeth with detailed references to other source material. Two inventories of Elizabeth's costume and some of her jewellery were published by

Janet Arnold Janet Arnold (6 October 1932 – 2 November 1998) was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. She is best known for her series of works called ''Patterns of Fashion'', which included accurate scale sew ...

in ''Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocke'd'' (Maney, 1988).

Introduction

In 1574 the office of the Jewel House was located in a two-storey building on the south side of the White Tower. This contained the records of the jewels and packing materials for sending jewels to court. The 1574 inventory was made by John Astley, Master and Treasurer of the Jewel House. The Master had an annual salary of £50 and was able to exact payments from goldsmiths appointed to work for the Jewel House, and those who transported plate from the House to diplomats. The post was lucrative, but some of the perquisites of the role were exaggerated or overstated by Sir Gilbert Talbot, who was made Master in 1660 and in 1680 wrote a treatise entitled ''Of the Jewel house''. In the inventory the items were listed in categories; below an outline of the main categories is given with some examples of the 1,605 entries. The sources used by Collins were

British Library The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom. Based in London, it is one of the largest libraries in the world, with an estimated collection of between 170 and 200 million items from multiple countries. As a legal deposit li ...

Harley MS The Harleian Library, Harley Collection, Harleian Collection and other variants () is one of the main "closed" collections (namely, historic collections to which new material is no longer added) of the British Library in London, formerly the libra ...

1560 and Stowe MS 555 (see external links for digitised manuscripts). The manuscripts represent the "Quenis Majesties juelles plate and other stuff" in 1574 and additions by gift or purchase over the next 20 years which were kept in the

Jewel House The Jewel House is a vault housing the British Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom, Crown Jewels in the Waterloo Block (formerly a barracks) at the Tower of London. It was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1994 and refurbished in 2012. Regalia ...

at the

Tower of London The Tower of London, officially His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, is a historic citadel and castle on the north bank of the River Thames in central London, England. It lies within the London Borough of Tower Hamle ...

. Collins also collated information from other books and manuscripts to cross-reference information about the objects listed. Gifts of plate to the queen passed from the

Privy Chamber A privy chamber was the private apartment of a royal residence in England. The Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber were noble-born servants to the Crown who would wait and attend on the King in private, as well as during various court activities, f ...

to the Jewel House. Some pieces were melted down and others were given as

diplomatic gift A diplomatic gift is a gift given by a :diplomat, politician or leader when visiting a foreign country. Usually the gift is reciprocated by the host. The use of diplomatic gifts dates back to the ancient world and givers have competed to outdo e ...

s. When the queen travelled, the towns she visited often gave her gifts of

silver-gilt Silver-gilt or gilded/gilt silver, sometimes known in American English by the French language, French term vermeil, is silver (either pure or sterling silver, sterling) which has been gilding, gilded. Most large objects made in goldsmithing tha ...

cups.

Costume inventories

published an annotated wardrobe inventory now in the British Library, (Stowe MS 557), consulting also a duplicate copy at the

National Archives National archives are the archives of a country. The concept evolved in various nations at the dawn of modernity based on the impact of nationalism upon bureaucratic processes of paperwork retention. Conceptual development From the Middle Ages i ...

, and another inventory held by the

Folger Shakespeare Library The Folger Shakespeare Library is an independent research library on Capitol Hill in Washington, D.C., United States. It has the world's largest collection of the printed works of William Shakespeare, and is a primary repository for rare materia ...

, MS V. b.72. The inventory includes some of the queen's jewels. Janet Arnold also published a surviving wardrobe book which records gifts, fabrics issued to the gentlewomen who made Elizabeth's hoods, and losses of jewelled buttons and aglets from her clothes. Entries were signed by the gentlewomen and

chamberer A chamberer was a female attendant of an English queen regnant, queen consort, or princess. There were similar positions in aristocratic households. Chamberers at court At court, the position was similar to a male groom of the privy chamber. The n ...

s and can be very detailed: Elizabeth lost a pendant pearl from one three fish that comprised a jewel called the "monster while visiting

Wanstead Park Wanstead Park is a municipal park covering an area of about 140 acres (57 hectares), in Wanstead, in the London Borough of Redbridge. It is also a district of the London Borough of Redbridge, which was in Essex until 1965. It is administered as ...

on 25 February 1584.

Outline of the 1574 inventory of plate

Gold plate

*''Juelles of Golde'' **no. 1 The imperial crown of England. **no. 2 The

sceptre A sceptre (or scepter in American English) is a Staff of office, staff or wand held in the hand by a ruling monarch as an item of regalia, royal or imperial insignia, signifying Sovereignty, sovereign authority. Antiquity Ancient Egypt and M ...

of gold with a dove. **no. 3 The globe or round ball ( orb) with a cross. **no. 4 The queen's crown (intended for a

queen consort A queen consort is the wife of a reigning king, and usually shares her spouse's social Imperial, royal and noble ranks, rank and status. She holds the feminine equivalent of the king's monarchical titles and may be crowned and anointed, but hi ...

). **no. 5 The queen's sceptre with a dove intended for a queen consort). One sceptre was repaired by Cornelis Hayes for the coronation of

Anne Boleyn Anne Boleyn (; 1501 or 1507 – 19 May 1536) was List of English royal consorts, Queen of England from 1533 to 1536, as the Wives of Henry VIII, second wife of King Henry VIII. The circumstances of her marriage and execution, by beheading ...

, and later issued to Dorothy Bulstrode for a

masque The masque was a form of festive courtly entertainment that flourished in 16th- and early 17th-century Europe, though it was developed earlier in Italy, in forms including the intermedio (a public version of the masque was the pageant). A mas ...

Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I. She was List of Scottish royal consorts, Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and List of English royal consorts, Queen of Engl ...

, and a gold wing was lost. **no. 6 A pair of

bracelets A bracelet is an article of jewellery that is worn around the wrist. Bracelets may serve different uses, such as being worn as an ornament. When worn as ornaments, bracelets may have a supportive function to hold other items of decoration, ...

with six rubies and seven large pearls and five smaller pearls, with red laces. *Cups and bowls British Museum Royal Gold Cup

**no. 48 The St Agnes cup. A cup of gold with imagery the knop a crown imperial and about border of the cover and the foot a crown garnished with 61 pearls. **no. 49 A jewelled gold cup given to

James VI of Scotland James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 March 1603 until ...

at the christening of Prince Henry at Stirling Castle on 30 August 1594. **no. 75 A cup of "assaye" of gold fair wrought and enamelled. Given to

Christian IV of Denmark Christian IV (12 April 1577 – 28 February 1648) was King of Denmark and King of Norway, Norway and List of rulers of Schleswig-Holstein, Duke of Holstein and Schleswig from 1588 until his death in 1648. His reign of 59 years and 330 days is th ...

on 5 August 1606. *Candlesticks **no. 77: Four gold candlesticks for a table with "H" and "R" enamelled in red. Three were gifts to Henry VIII from Catherine of Aragon. *

Goblet A chalice (from Latin 'cup', taken from the Ancient Greek () 'cup') is a drinking cup raised on a stem with a foot or base. Although it is a technical archaeological term, in modern parlance the word is now used almost exclusively for the ...

s and jugs *

Salt cellar A salt cellar (also called a salt, salt-box) is an article of tableware for holding and dispensing salt. In British English, the term can be used for what in North American English are called salt shakers. Salt cellars can be either lidded or op ...

s **no. 83 A salt called the "

Morris Dance Morris dancing is a form of English folklore, English folk dance. It is based on rhythmic stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers in costume, usually wearing bell pads on their shins, their shoes or both. A ban ...

" decorated with precious stones and pearls with 5 morris dancers, a drummer, and a lady. The salt was taken to

The Hague The Hague ( ) is the capital city of the South Holland province of the Netherlands. With a population of over half a million, it is the third-largest city in the Netherlands. Situated on the west coast facing the North Sea, The Hague is the c ...

in October 1625 by the

Duke of Buckingham Duke of Buckingham, referring to the market town of Buckingham, England, is an extinct title that has been created several times in the peerages of England, Great Britain, and the United Kingdom. There were creations of double dukedoms of Bucki ...

and pawned. *Orange-strainers * Trenchers *Spoons and forks *Basins,

ewer In American English, a pitcher is a container with a spout used for storing and pouring liquids. In English-speaking countries outside North America, a jug is any container with a handle and a mouth and spout for liquid – American "pitchers" wi ...

s and lairs **no. 125 A gold basin with the arms of

Jane Seymour Jane Seymour (; 24 October 1537) was Queen of England as the third wife of King Henry VIII from their marriage on 30 May 1536 until her death the next year. She became queen following the execution of Henry's second wife, Anne Boleyn, who was ...

with gold roses enamelled red and white, and the border of the cover engraved with roses, a bird with a ring in its mouth, and a worm or serpent. Presented to the

Constable of Castile Constable of Castile () was a title of a military nature created by John I, King of Castile in 1382, as a result of the Third Fernandine War against the Portuguese and the English. The post substituted the title of ''Alférez Mayor del Reino'' ...

in 1604. *Glasses *Casting-bottles ** no. 148 A casting bottle with the queen's arms. Dorothy Silking, a

of Anne of Denmark was accused of taking this bottle.

Silver, silver-gilt, and parcel-gilt plate

*Crosses *Book-covers **nos. 152 and 153 The covering of a Bible of silver and gilt fair wrought, and the covering of a Book of Common Prayer. These book covers were later weighed by the auditor

Francis Gofton Sir Francis Gofton (died 1628) was an English courtier and administrator. He was an auditor of royal accounts and jewels, Chief Auditor of the Imprest from 1597 and Auditor of Mint from August 1603. Gofton acquired the manor of Heathrow, and house ...

. *A

baptismal font A baptismal font is an Church architecture, ecclesiastical architectural element, which serves as a receptacle for baptismal water used for baptism, as a part of Christian initiation for both rites of Infant baptism, infant and Believer's bapti ...

**no. 159 The silver-gilt font was decorated with pomegranates (the emblem of

Catherine of Aragon Catherine of Aragon (also spelt as Katherine, historical Spanish: , now: ; 16 December 1485 – 7 January 1536) was List of English royal consorts, Queen of England as the Wives of Henry VIII, first wife of King Henry VIII from their marr ...

), roses, and "antique" (renaissance style) decoration. It was made for

Mary I of England Mary I (18 February 1516 – 17 November 1558), also known as Mary Tudor, was Queen of England and Ireland from July 1553 and Queen of Spain as the wife of King Philip II from January 1556 until her death in 1558. She made vigorous ...

in 1555. *Church plate *

Mitre The mitre (Commonwealth English) or miter (American English; American and British English spelling differences#-re, -er, see spelling differences; both pronounced ; ) is a type of headgear now known as the traditional, ceremonial headdress of ...

s *Cups and cups of assay **no. 215 An "Antique" (renaissance style) gilt cup with a cover with a letter "D". Given in 1604 to Jean Grusset Richardot, President of the Privy Council of the

Netherlands , Terminology of the Low Countries, informally Holland, is a country in Northwestern Europe, with Caribbean Netherlands, overseas territories in the Caribbean. It is the largest of the four constituent countries of the Kingdom of the Nether ...

. **no. 225 Two great gilt cups with German knights in armour on their covers with shields and

halberd A halberd (also called halbard, halbert or Swiss voulge), is a two-handed polearm that was in prominent use from the 13th to 16th centuries. The halberd consists of an axe blade topped with a spike mounted on a long shaft. It may have a hook or ...

s. These had belonged to the

Duke of Northumberland Duke of Northumberland is a noble title that has been created three times in English and British history, twice in the Peerage of England and once in the Peerage of Great Britain. The current holder of this title is Ralph Percy, 12th Duke of N ...

. With other pieces, they were given to Alessandro Roveda, a Spanish representative at the Somerset House Conference on 22 August 1604. **no 356 A cup called a "colloke" made of serpentine with a silver-gilt cover, given by Sir John Mason as a New Year's gift in 1562. The silver was sent to the

mint Mint or The Mint may refer to: Plants * Lamiaceae, the mint family ** ''Mentha'', the genus of plants commonly known as "mint" Coins and collectibles * Mint (facility), a facility for manufacturing coins * Mint condition, a state of like-new ...

to be made into coin in 1600. *Bowls *Bowls (gilt) *Bowls (

parcel-gilt Gilding is a decorative technique for applying a very thin coating of gold over solid surfaces such as metal (most common), wood, porcelain, or stone. A gilded object is also described as "gilt". Where metal is gilded, the metal below was tradi ...

and silver) *Pots (gilt) *Pots (parcel-gilt and silver) **no. 539 Two gilt pots with rings around their bellies and angels and ciphers (initials) around their necks. Given to

Juan Fernández de Velasco, 5th Duke of Frías ''Juan'' is a given name, the Spanish and Manx versions of ''John''. The name is of Hebrew origin and has the meaning "God has been gracious." It is very common in Spain and in other Spanish-speaking countries around the world and in the Philipp ...

, in August 1604 at the Somerset House Conference. *

Flagon A flagon () is a large leather, metal, glass, plastic or ceramic vessel, used for storing and pouring drink, whether this be water, ale, or another liquid. They are generally not intended to be drunk from directly, like a cup. A flagon is typica ...

s and casting bottles (gilt) *Flagons of glass or stone bound in velvet *Spice plates * Spice boxes *Candlesticks and snuffers *Spoons *Goblets and glasses *Jugs *Tankards and Hanse pots **no. 872 A silver gilt tankard set with cameo heads, given in July 1579 to Edward Darcy, groom of the Privy Chamber, on his marriage to a daughter of Thomas Astley, another groom. **no. 874 A silver gilt jug shaped like a lion. **no. 876 A silver gilt jug shaped like an owl. *Cruises (A type of tankard) *Stoneware jugs *Salt cellars **no. 998 A basin of silver-gilt designed by

Hans Holbein the younger Hans Holbein the Younger ( , ; ; – between 7 October and 29 November 1543) was a German-Swiss painter and printmaker who worked in a Northern Renaissance style, and is considered one of the greatest portraitists of the 16th century. He ...

for

. Declared unserviceable and sold in 1620. *Basins, fountains, ewers and gilt lairs (a lair was a kind of ewer) *Basins and ewers (parcel-gilt and silver) *

Chafing dish A chafing dish is a metal cooking or serving pan on a stand with an alcohol burner holding chafing fuel below it. It is used for cooking at table, notably in gueridon service, or as a food warmer for keeping dishes at a buffet warm. Historica ...

es *Trenchers *Knives *'Vessell' (gilt, parcel-gilt and silver) ** Two great gilt laires or water pots. Made by Cornelis Hayes for Henry VIII,

James VI and I James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and King of Ireland, Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 M ...

gave them to

Juan Fernández de Velasco y Tovar, 5th Duke of Frías Juan Fernández de Velasco, 5th Duke of Frías ( – 15 March 1613) was a Spanish nobleman and diplomat. Biography Juan Fernández de Velasco was the son of Íñigo Fernández de Velasco; and of Maria Angela de Aragón y Guzmán El Bueno. He i ...

, in 1604. *Kitchen plate **no. 1305 An instrument of silver to roast puddings and apples. Melted down for coinage in October 1600. *Orange strainers **no. 1314 A strainer for oranges with a long steel writhen pole. **no. 1320 A strainer for oranges of silver and gilt with two crystals in the handle, given by

Sir George Howard Field marshal (United Kingdom), Field Marshal Sir George Howard Order of the Bath, KB Privy Council of Great Britain, PC (17 June 1718 – 16 July 1796) was a British military officer and politician. After commanding the Buffs (Royal East Ken ...

Master of the Armouries The Royal Armouries is the United Kingdom's national collection of arms and armour. Once an important part of England's military organization, it became the United Kingdom's oldest museum, and one of the oldest museums in the world. It is als ...

, in 1573. *Perfume pans **no. 1322 A perfume pan of silver and gilt with pillars of crystal part broken, and a clock plated with gold and enamelled. Melted down in October 1600.

"Sundry parcelles"

*no. 1375 A gunpowder flask taken from the body of James IV at the

Battle of Flodden The Battle of Flodden, Flodden Field, or occasionally Branxton or Brainston Moor was fought on 9 September 1513 during the War of the League of Cambrai between the Kingdom of England and the Kingdom of Scotland and resulted in an English victory ...

Plate received on 10 January 1574 from the grooms of the Privy Chamber

*no. 1398 A cup of gold with cover holding an escutcheon given by the townsmen of Sandwich on 31 August 1573.

Accessions in 1575, 1576, 1577

*no. 1429 Thirteen hooks of silver gilt made to fasten hangings in the queen's privy chamber, placed in the keeping of Dorothy Habington, the sister of

Edward Habington Edward Habington, Abington, or Abingdon (1553?–1586), was one of the conspirators in the Babington Plot. Habington, born about 1553, was the eldest son of John Habington of Hindlip, Worcestershire, by his wife Catherine, daughter of John Wyke ...

. *no. 1433 Four gold toothpicks given by Mistress Elizabeth Snowe (died 1587), a gentlewoman in the Privy Chamber. *no. 1440 A cup of agate set with rubies and emeralds given by Thomas Wilson, and delivered to Jewel House from the Privy Chamber by Henry Middlemore, groom of the privy chamber, the father of

Mary Middlemore Mary Middlemore (died 1618) was a Courtier and Maid of Honour to Anne of Denmark, subject of poems, and treasure hunter. Family background Mary Middlemore was the eldest daughter of Henry Middlemore of Enfield, a groom of the privy chamber to Que ...

a maid of honour to Anna of Denmark. *no. 1453 A jug of crystal with silver gilt with a phoenix at the top given by Lord Henry Seymour. Anna of Denmark had this jug during her

lying-in Lying-in is the term given to the European forms of postpartum confinement, the traditional practice involving long bed rest before and after giving birth. The term and the practice it describes are old-fashioned or archaic, but lying-in u ...

while pregnant with Princess Sophia.

Additions recorded to 12 August 1594

*no. 1483 Three gilt bowls with covers given by the town of Yarmouth in August 1578. Elizabeth did not visit the town because of an outbreak of plague. *no. 1484 A fair standing bowl with a silver cover decorated with scenes of the story of

Joseph Joseph is a common male name, derived from the Hebrew (). "Joseph" is used, along with " Josef", mostly in English, French and partially German languages. This spelling is also found as a variant in the languages of the modern-day Nordic count ...

given by the members of the Dutch church in

Norwich Norwich () is a cathedral city and district of the county of Norfolk, England, of which it is the county town. It lies by the River Wensum, about north-east of London, north of Ipswich and east of Peterborough. The population of the Norwich ...

on 19 August 1578. *no. 1485 A cup with a cover of silver gilt given by the town of

Thetford Thetford is a market town and civil parishes in England, civil parish in the Breckland District of Norfolk, England. It is on the A11 road (England), A11 road between Norwich and London, just east of Thetford Forest. The civil parish, coverin ...

in August 1578. *no. 1515 A basket of silver to use to clear away dining utensils, presented by

Francis Drake Sir Francis Drake ( 1540 – 28 January 1596) was an English Exploration, explorer and privateer best known for making the Francis Drake's circumnavigation, second circumnavigation of the world in a single expedition between 1577 and 1580 (bein ...

at a banquet at

Deptford Deptford is an area on the south bank of the River Thames in southeast London, in the Royal Borough of Greenwich and London Borough of Lewisham. It is named after a Ford (crossing), ford of the River Ravensbourne. From the mid 16th century ...

in 1581. *no. 1521 A double porringer and 4 silver boxes with silver gilt covers given by

Blanche Parry Blanche Parry (1507/8–12 February 1590) of Newcourt in the parish of Bacton, Herefordshire, in the Welsh Marches, was a personal attendant of Queen Elizabeth I, who held the offices of Chief Gentlewoman of the Queen's Most Honourable Privy C ...

. *no. 1541 A great standing cup gilt, with a cover, the body garnished with "sundry vermin as snakes ewetes (newts) frogs and others", and laid with colours, the cover garnished with sundry men and beasts hunting with a stag at the top, supplied by Alderman Martin. This cup, probably made in Germany, was admired in the Tower of London by Lupold von Wedel in November 1584. It was a gift at the baptism of Prince Henry in August 1594.

Jewels of Elizabeth I and the inventories

Portraits of Elizabeth depict jewels, and may indicate how they were worn. Her ruff in a portrait c.1595 is decorated with 25 red arrows of rubies feathered with pearls, and tall jewelled spikes top her hair echoing obelisks embroidered on her dress. Some of the jewellery shown in portraits reflects the pieces described in the inventories, a theme explored by the costume historian

, and the jewellery historian

Diana Scarisbrick Diana Mary Innes Scarisbrick (née Wood; 8 October 1928 – 30 December 2024) was an English art historian specialising in the history of jewellery and engraved gems. Life and career Born 8 October 1928 at Echuca, Victoria, Australia, to Engli ...

. On 21 May 1559 Elizabeth selected a group of jewels from the Tower of London for a celebration with French ambassadors for the

Treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis The Treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis in April 1559 ended the Italian Wars (1494–1559). It consisted of two separate treaties, one between England and France on 2 April, and another between France and Spain on 3 April. Although he was not a signatory ...

. These included two diamond-set brooches depicting David And Goliath, one with Goliath's armour composed of diamonds (a diamond-set example held by the

Green Vault The Green Vault (; ) is a museum located in Dresden, Germany, which contains the largest treasure collection in Europe. The museum was founded in 1723 by Augustus the Strong of Poland and Saxony, and features a variety of exhibits in styles from B ...

Dresden Dresden (; ; Upper Saxon German, Upper Saxon: ''Dräsdn''; , ) is the capital city of the States of Germany, German state of Saxony and its second most populous city after Leipzig. It is the List of cities in Germany by population, 12th most p ...

is later), a jewel depicting several figures with the motto ''In Petra Christi sancta fient foedera'', with chains set with gems and other jewels. It is not clear whether Elizabeth intended these items as gifts or wore them herself, but they were not included among the gifts listed by the Venetian ambassador. Elizabeth took an interest in the making of jewels in London, in 1587 asking

John Spilman Sir John Spilman (also spelt Spielman) (died 1626) was a Lindau, Holy Roman Empire-born businessman who founded the first commercially successful paper-mill in England, establishing a factory on the River Darenth in Dartford, Kent in 1588.Dartford ...

, her household goldsmith, to employ English and foreign ("stranger") diamond cutters, ruby cutters, agate cutters, clockmakers, goldsmiths, and wire workers. When Elizabeth bought two expensive uncut diamonds in 1596, crystal substitute stones were made to set in a pattern piece of gold jewellery for her approval. James VI and Anna of Denmark's agents in London bought a sapphire engraved with Elizabeth's portrait in 1599. A lady in waiting, and keeper of her jewellery,

, made an inventory in 1587, now held by the

, listing 628 pieces, which passed into the custody of Mary Radcliffe.

Jewels as gifts

Elizabeth received gifts of jewels from courtiers at New Year, and from diplomats. Lady Mary Sidney gave Elizabeth a pelican jewel as a New Year's Day gift in 1573, possibly as a reproach for Elizabeth's perceived ingratitude for nursing her in 1562 when she had smallpox and Sybil Penn died. Elizabeth soon gave the pelican brooch to Sidney's sister, the Countess of Huntingdon. Lady Stafford gave Elizabeth another gold pelican jewel in 1580, and two other pelican jewels appear in the inventories. At the

Union of the Crowns The Union of the Crowns (; ) was the accession of James VI of Scotland to the throne of the Kingdom of England as James I and the practical unification of some functions (such as overseas diplomacy) of the two separate realms under a single ...

, a "jewell of golde like a Pellican garnished with diamondes of sondrie sortes and bigness, under her feete three rubies and a triangle diamond" was issued to Sir George Home for James VI and I. In January 1585

Catherine Howard, Countess of Nottingham Catherine Howard, Countess of Nottingham ( Carey; – 25 February 1603), was a cousin, lady-in-waiting, and close confidante of Elizabeth I of England. She was in attendance on the queen for 44 years. Life Catherine Carey was the eldest daugh ...

gave her "a jewel of gold being a dolphin fully garnished with sparks of ruby with a personage upon his back having a lute in his hand", a representation of the classical myth of

Arion Arion (; ) was a kitharode in ancient Greece, a Dionysiac poet credited with inventing the dithyramb. The islanders of Lesbos claimed him as their native son, but Arion found a patron in Periander, tyrant of Corinth. Although notable for his mu ...

Ambrose Dudley, 3rd Earl of Warwick Ambrose Dudley, 3rd Earl of Warwick, Knight of the Garter, KG (c. 1530 – 21 February 1590) was an English peerage, nobleman and general, and an elder brother of Queen Elizabeth I's favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. Their ...

gave her a jewel in the form of bay leaves with roses, a spider and a bee, in 1572. The Spanish ambassador, Antonio de Guarás, noted that in 1577 he gave Mary a jewel that was recognised to refer to

Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was List of Scottish monarchs, Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legit ...

. It depicted Elizabeth enthroned with a queen in chains, and France and Spain submerged by Neptune. Elizabeth was given jewels during country house entertainments staged during her progresses. At the Ryecote Entertainment, the gifts represented the military activities of the sons of Sir Henry Norris. At the Harefield Entertainment in August 1602 Elizabeth was presented with a diamond feather (or heart) and an anchor. The two jewels were said to be worth £600 and £1000. When

Christopher Hatton Sir Christopher Hatton (12 December 1540 – 20 November 1591) was an English politician, Lord Chancellor of England and a favourite of Elizabeth I of England. He was one of the judges who found Mary, Queen of Scots guilty of treason. Early ...

was unable to join her on a progress, he gave her a jewel featuring a bagpipe, which she wore on her ruff. This was an allusion to shepherds and sheep, Elizabeth's nickname for Hatton was "her mutton", as she herself explained to

Sir Robert Cecil Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury, (1 June 156324 May 1612) was an English statesman noted for his direction of the government during the Union of the Crowns, as Tudor England gave way to Stuart period, Stuart rule (1603). Lord Salisbury ser ...

Jewels in the Stowe inventory

The inventory has three sections of jewels, the first group has 77 items kept by Elizabeth's lady in waiting Mary Radcliffe, the second section lists 19 jewels kept by the Countess of Suffolk and transferred to

Thomas Gorges Sir Thomas Gorges (1536 – 30 March 1610) of Longford Castle in Wiltshire, was a courtier and Groom of the Chamber to Queen Elizabeth I. Via his great-grandmother Lady Anne Howard, a daughter of John Howard, 1st Duke of Norfolk, he was a ...

, Master of the Wardrobe, to make the inventory, and the third section lists 32 jewels kept by Mary Radcliffe passed to Gorges. After the inventory was taken by the auditor

, Gorges returned the jewels to Radcliffe on 28 May 1603. The entries have annotations in various hands which help to track the transfer of pieces to Anne of Denmark or their sale after the

. Some entries are given below, abridged and with modernised spelling:

Stowe inventory, first section

* Item, small

aglet An aglet ( ) or aiglet is a small sheath, often made of plastic or metal, attached at each end of a shoelace, a cord, or a drawstring. An aglet keeps the fibers of the lace or cord from unraveling; its firmness and narrow profile make it eas ...

s of gold, 46 pairs. Delivered 30 January 1604 to "Mr Robert Jessi". This may be the Scottish goldsmith

Robert Jousie Robert Jousie (or Joussie or Jowsie or Jossie; died 1626) was a Scottish textile merchant, financier, and courtier. He was involved in the collection and administration of the English subsidy of James VI. Jousie supplied fabrics used at the bapt ...

who was connected with King James' wardrobe. * 3A jewel of gold like an Angel, the body mother of pearl, the wings garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, and two antiques like horses under it garnished with like sparks of rubies and diamonds. Delivered 30 January 1604.

Stowe inventory, second section

* A jewel of gold like a circle of Pansies, Daisies, and other flowers, garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies, with a butterfly of mother of pearl and a crab holding the same. * A jewel of gold like a Pelican garnished with diamonds of sundry sorts.

Stowe inventory, third section

* 1A jewel of gold having two hands, one holding a sword, the other a trowel, both garnished with sparks of diamonds, and between the hands a garnishment of opal. This had been a New Year's Day gift in 1587. The device is a well-known

emblem An emblem is an abstract art, abstract or representational pictorial image that represents a concept, like a moral truth, or an allegory, or a person, like a monarch or saint. Emblems vs. symbols Although the words ''emblem'' and ''symbol'' ...

for peace and appears in Geoffrey Whitney's ''Choice of Emblems'' (London, 1586). * 7A jewel of gold like a Daisy and small flowers about it garnished with sparks of diamonds and rubies with her Majesty's picture graven on a garnet, and a sprig of three branches garnished with sparks of rubies, a pearl at the top, and a small pendant of sparks of diamonds. A New Year's day gift in 1593.

Missing jewels in the Folger inventory

The Folger inventory (MS V.b.72) lists 22 jewels known to have been lost from Elizabeth's wardrobe. These include: * A button of gold with five pearls lost from her Majesty's kirtle at a play at

Richmond Richmond most often refers to: * Richmond, British Columbia, a city in Canada * Richmond, California, a city in the United States * Richmond, London, a town in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames, England * Richmond, North Yorkshire, a town ...

at Christmas 1595 * 0Item, a diamond from a jewel like a heart fully garnished with diamonds, lost by her Majesty 14 February 1596

Elizabeth I and French jewellery

, like

, bought jewellery in Paris. The diplomat

Nicholas Throckmorton Sir Nicholas Throckmorton (or Throgmorton; c. 1515/151612 February 1571) was an English diplomat and politician, who was an ambassador to France and later Scotland, and played a key role in the relationship between Elizabeth I of England ...

sent her a list of questions about prospective purchases in 1562, which give useful information about jewels worn in the 1560s and contemporary attitudes to purchasing and material literacy. Throckmorton discussed the borders and "billements" worn with hoods, noting that the length of a French style billement was different to those worn in England. There could be girdles and necklace chains in matching sets with the billements and borders. Some items were destined as gifts, and Throckmorton contrasted the cost of making, the "fashioning", with the weight of precious metal. Simple forms made by casting were much cheaper. His questions for Elizabeth were: * "How many borders, upper and nether, shall be bought?" * "What number shall be engraved and "sicelled" which is the most costly fashion, and how many cast in the mold and wrought slightly which will be better cheap?" * "Whether all the borders shall be enamelled, or some not?" * "To know the length of the said borders, because the fashion is different here to there in the length of the "billements"" * "Whether to every border there shall be a chain for the neck, and a girdle with a pendant and a vase, or at least to know how many chains and girdles with vases shall be provided." * "How many chains shall be provided for men, to be given in reward, and of what value, which ought rather to be of more show than fashion, because the fashion, if it be costly will eat up the weight?" * "How many pomanders (as you term them) called here of gold shall be provided, and whether there shall be any sweet paste put in them?" * "Whether any bracelets shall be provided, and how many pairs?" * "How many carcanets shall be provided?" This purchase of jewels and gold chains was first mooted for the time of the progress in the summer of 1561, for Elizabeth and the ladies of the court. Later, the Parisian jewellery may have been intended to be

diplomatic gifts A diplomatic gift is a gift given by a :diplomat, politician or leader when visiting a foreign country. Usually the gift is reciprocated by the host. The use of diplomatic gifts dates back to the ancient world and givers have competed to outdo ea ...

at the "interview", the planned meeting between Mary, Queen of Scots, and Elizabeth in England which never took place. The

Earl of Pembroke Earl of Pembroke is a title in the Peerage of England that was first created in the 12th century by King Stephen of England. The title, which is associated with Pembroke, Pembrokeshire in West Wales, has been recreated ten times from its origin ...

became involved in buying the jewels and chains in Paris and there was some difficulty in obtaining credit from the Italian financier Guido Cavalcanti. One French piece listed in the queen's inventory was "a chain of Paris work being white and tawny "bugle" slightly garnished with gold".

John Dymocke and Eric XIV of Sweden

William Cecil had previously written to Throckmorton in May 1561, before Mary had returned to Scotland from France, asking him to find a goldsmith in Paris to bring or send items for Elizabeth and her ladies to "be gay in this Court towards the progress". Cecil wrote about a jewellery purchase connected to a visit by Elizabeth's suitor,

Eric XIV of Sweden Erik XIV or Eric XIV (13 December 153326 February 1577) became King of Sweden following the death of his father, Gustav I, on 29 September 1560. During a 1568 rebellion against him, Erik was incarcerated by his half-brother John III. He w ...

. Anything unsold in England would be custom free. John Dymocke, who had been a soldier and a royal usher, had a licence to import jewels. He discussed patterns drawn on parchment with

Kat Ashley Katherine Ashley (née Champernowne; – 18 July 1565), also known as Kat Ashley or Astley, was the first close friend, governess, and Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth I of England. Sh ...

and Elizabeth. Elizabeth was interested in a jewel with a large ruby and pearl pendant, and Dymocke claimed she jokingly said the King of Sweden would buy it for her. Dymock went to Sweden with a portrait painter. He gave Eric XIV a pair of

perfumed gloves Perfumed gloves, also referred to as sweet gloves, are perfumed gloves, often embroidered, introduced to England from Spain and Venice. They were popular as gifts in the 16th and 17th-centuries. Stories describe them as a conveyance of poison for J ...

, and discussed jewels and Elizabeth's marriage plans, although he was not an accredited diplomat. There was a scandal and Kat Ashley and the

Dorothy Bradbelt were banished from court for a time.

Elizabeth's jewels after her death

Wien Schatzkammer Deutscher Orden - Natternzungenkredenz

Elizabeth had a quantity of old jewels from the Tower of London appraised for sale in October 1600 by the goldsmiths Hugh Kayle,

, and Leonard Bushe. The consignment included a number of unmounted precious stones and counterfeit imitations including "Dutch agates", gold rings and buttons set with stones and cameos, pearls, gold chains, beads, billements for headdresses, seven clocks, and scrap "broken" gold and silver. Some of the pearls had been sewn on a gown of Elizabeth, or perhaps a gown of

. The goldsmiths William Herrick and

reset a number of Elizabeth's gems on a gold circlet or coronet which Anne of Denmark wore to her English coronation on 25 July 1603. On 12 January 1604 Herrick and Spilman were asked to assess and make an inventory of jewels that had belonged to Queen Elizabeth. King James had already given many pieces to the queen, Princess Elizabeth, and

Arbella Stuart Lady Arbella Stuart (also Arabella, or Stewart; 1575 – 25 September 1615) was an English noblewoman who was considered a possible successor to Queen Elizabeth I of England. During the reign of King James VI and I (her first cousin), she marrie ...

and others. Some of the remaining jewels had been transferred from the keeping of Mary Radcliffe to the Countess of Suffolk. Several pieces were sold or exchanged with the goldsmith and financier

Peter Vanlore Sir Peter Vanlore (c. 1547 – 6 September 1627) was a Dutch (ethnic group), Dutch-born English people, English merchant, jeweller and moneylender in Elizabethan era, Elizabethan and house of Stuart, Stuart England. Biography He was born ...

. A list of jewels in the possession of Anne of Denmark in 1606 was published by Diana Scarisbrick, and includes several items formerly in Elizabeth's collection. In December 1607, King James retrieved some of Elizabeth's jewels from the Jewel House and sent them to William Herrick and

to be refurbished. He gave his wife

a cup made of unicorn's horn with a gold cover (believed to guard against poison) set with diamonds and pearls, a gold jug or ewer, a salt with a branch set with sapphires and serpent's tongues (really fossilized

shark teeth Sharks continually shed their teeth; some Carcharhiniformes shed approximately 35,000 teeth in a lifetime, replacing those that fall out. There are four basic types of shark teeth: dense flattened, needle-like, pointed lower with triangular up ...

, also a safeguard against poisoning), and a crystal chess board with topaz and crystal pieces.Frederick Devon, ''Issues of the Exchequer During the Reign of James I'' (London, 1836), pp. 305-6. Later in the reign of James other lists of jewels were made, including those annexed to the crown in 1606, and those sent to Spain in 1623 at the time of the

Spanish Match The Spanish match was a proposed marriage between Prince Charles I of England, Charles, the son of King James VI & I of Kingdom of Scotland and Kingdom of England, England, and Infante, Infanta Maria Anna of Spain, the daughter of Philip III of ...

. These were printed in Thomas Rymer's ''Foedera''.

References

Bibliography

External links

British Library, Stowe MS 555, inventory of jewels and other goods of Queen Elizabeth I, 1574-1594

British Library Digitised Manuscripts: Harley MS 1650, inventory of Queen Elizabeth I’s jewels and plate

The Folger inventory (MS V.b.72): Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded, searchable transcript

The Stowe inventory, text from John Nichols, ''The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth'', vol. 3 (London, 1823), Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded

Art in Context, Dress and Jewelry in Portraits of the Elizabethan Period: Yale Centre for British Art

Cassandra J. Auble, "The Cultural Significance of Precious Stones in Early Modern England", June 2011, thesis, University of Nebraska - Lincoln
{{DEFAULTSORT:Inventory Of Elizabeth I Elizabeth I 16th century in England 1574 in England Harleian Collection 16th-century documents Crown jewels Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom National symbols of the United Kingdom Tower of London Material culture of royal courts