Hubble (climb)

''Hubble'' is a short bolted sport climb at the limestone crag of Raven Tor in Millers Dale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When ''Hubble'' was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of ; and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b.

History

Hubble was an aid climbing practice route that used skyhooks to pass the first two bolts, which English climbers Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt started working on in 1989. Moon and Moffatt had returned from a summer in France establishing some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world on the limestone walls of Buoux, including ''Agincourt'' and ''Maginot Line'', both at ; they wanted to set these new grade standards at home. Moon rebuilt the individual moves of ''Hubble'' in his basement and practiced them with Moffatt, in particular using a new device called a "Moon Board", which was not dissimilar to Wolfgang Gullich's new campus board training device.

Moon spent eight straight days completing the first redpoint of the route, which he did on 14 June 1990, on one of the rare occasions when the route was completely dry. Moon later said, "The year before, I had already redpointed a couple of 8c's in France. I already knew that ''Hubble'' was more difficult than all my hardest lines like ''Agincourt'' or ''Maginot Line''. That’s why I rated it E9/7b. It was the first route in Great Britain that was given a 7b as technical difficulty". Moon also said that Moffatt had come close to redpointing it earlier, but lost interest when Moon completed it. ''Hubble'' is widely regarded as the world's first consensus climbing route.

First 9a

Climbers have speculated whether ''Hubble'' was actually the world's first-ever sport climb at grade , instead of Wolfgang Güllich's 1991 ascent of Action Directe, which is considered the first – and is still the "benchmark" – for the grade.

German Alex Megos is one of the few, with British climber Buster Martin, who have climbed ''Hubble'' and ''Action Directe''; he felt ''Hubble'' was very short and probably an in the right conditions (i.e. fully dry), although Megos caveated himself by noting that grading is not an exact science, and is subject to the climber's own style and preferences. Czech climber Adam Ondra had a brief attempt at ''Hubble'' when conditions were not perfect (the route is usually damp) and said: "Personally, I would like to see the impressive ''Action Directe'' as the first 9a, nevertheless, when I consider it objectively, the first one is in fact ''Hubble'', that’s a pity because it’s quite short and slimy".

The short nature of the route had led some, including Moon himself, to describe ''Hubble'' as "bouldering on a rope", and speculated that the short 4-move crux makes ''Hubble'' really a bouldering problem with a circa bouldering grade. Ondra himself said, "Maybe it would be more accurate to label the route as an bouldering problem; that would make it the first 8B+ in the world – 10 years before the one that we consider to be the first today Dreamtime'', by Fred Nicole from 2000; although Nicole's Radja from 1996 is now considered the first 8B+ (V14) boulder route]".

The later discovery of the possibility of a Glossary of climbing terms#knee bar, kneebar rest at the crux is considered to have also likely softened ''Hubbles grade to its original grade of .

Route

''Hubble'' is described as starting from a big Glossary of climbing terms#flake, flake, after which most climbers reach for a large pinch hold. Shorter climbers can use an intermediate hold and a foothold to get the pinch. From the pinch, the climber reaches right to an undercut, moves their feet above a lip in a high step while bringing the left hand into a two-finger pocket undercut.

Then comes the circa bouldering crux move, for which the climber slaps right for a slopey crimp, then to a large pinch, and then an undercut crimp. There is another high step to bring the feet above another lip and slap for a rough crimp. This is the 4-move bouldering crux section of the route, after which is a section to finish.

More recent ascents of ''Hubble'' (e.g Matthew Wright and Buster Martin in 2020), have seen some climbers use a kneebar short rest – a modern sport climbing technique – at the crux section that can soften the difficulty slightly, although still maintaining the route at a consensus level.

Ascents

''Hubble'' has been ascended by:

* 1st. Ben Moon, 14 June 1990
* 2nd. Malcolm Smith, 1992
* 3rd. John Gaskins, 1994
* 4th. Richard Simpson (disputed), 2005
* 5th. Steve Dunning, 2009
* 6th. Steve McClure, 2009
* 7th. Alexander Megos, 31 May 2016
* 8th. William Bosi, 2016
* 9th. Pete Dawson, 2019
* 10th. Mathew Wright, 2 October 2020
* 11th. Buster Martin, 13 October 2020
* 12th. Toby Roberts, 28 October 2021

Filmography

* Sean McColl's 2014 inspection:
* Alex Megos's 2016 ascent:

See also

*History of rock climbing
*List of grade milestones in rock climbing
*''Silence'', first climb in the world with a potential grade of
*''La Dura Dura'', second climb in the world with a consensus grade of
*''Jumbo Love'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of
*'' Realization/Biographie'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of
*'' Action Directe'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of

References

Further reading

*{{cite book , url=https://shop.thebmc.co.uk/product/peak-limestone-north/ , title=Peak Limestone North , publisher=British Mountaineering Council , isbn=9780903908382 , first=Niall , last=Grimes , accessdate=31 December 2021

External links

Hubble
''theCrag'' (2023)
Alex Megos Formula: Gravity (featuring Alex on Hubble, 8c+)
(2016, episode 3), Red Bull

Sport climbing routes
1990s in sport climbing
Climbing areas of England
Mountains and hills of the Peak District
Climbing in the United Kingdom