Hisn Akkar
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Gibelacar (), also known by its original Arabic name Hisn Ibn Akkar () or its modern Arabic name Qal'at Akkar (), is a fortress in the village of
Akkar al-Atiqa Akkar al-Atika (; also spelled Akkar al-Atiqa or Aakkar El Aatiqa) is a town and municipality located in the Akkar Governorate in northern Lebanon. It is about north of Beirut. Akkar al-Atika contains the 11th-century fortress of Gibelacar (Hisn ...
in the
Akkar Governorate Akkar Governorate () is the northernmost governorate of Lebanon. It comprises the single district of Akkar, which in turn is subdivided into 121 municipalities. The capital is at Halba. It covers an area of and is bounded by the Mediterranean ...
in northern
Lebanon Lebanon, officially the Republic of Lebanon, is a country in the Levant region of West Asia. Situated at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Basin and the Arabian Peninsula, it is bordered by Syria to the north and east, Israel to the south ...
. The fortress dates back to the
Fatimid The Fatimid Caliphate (; ), also known as the Fatimid Empire, was a caliphate extant from the tenth to the twelfth centuries CE under the rule of the Fatimid dynasty, Fatimids, an Isma'ili Shi'a dynasty. Spanning a large area of North Africa ...
era in the early 11th century. It was captured and utilized by the
Crusaders The Crusades were a series of religious wars initiated, supported, and at times directed by the Papacy during the Middle Ages. The most prominent of these were the campaigns to the Holy Land aimed at reclaiming Jerusalem and its surrounding ...
in the early 12th century until it was captured and strengthened by the
Mamluks Mamluk or Mamaluk (; (singular), , ''mamālīk'' (plural); translated as "one who is owned", meaning "slave") were non-Arab, ethnically diverse (mostly Turkic, Caucasian, Eastern and Southeastern European) enslaved mercenaries, slave-sold ...
in the late 13th century. It became the headquarters of the
Sayfa Yusuf Sayfa Pasha (; – 22 July 1625) was a chieftain and ''multazim'' (tax farmer) in the Tripoli region who frequently served as the Ottoman ''beylerbey'' (provincial governor) of Tripoli Eyalet between 1579 and his death. Yusuf or his f ...
clan, whose members, chief among them Yusuf Pasha, served as the governors and tax farmers of the
Tripoli Eyalet Tripoli Eyalet (; ) was an eyalet of the Ottoman Empire. The capital was in Tripoli, Lebanon. Its reported area in the 19th century was . It extended along the coast, from the southern limits of the Amanus mountains in the north, to the gorge o ...
and its
sanjak A sanjak or sancak (, , "flag, banner") was an administrative division of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottomans also sometimes called the sanjak a liva (, ) from the name's calque in Arabic and Persian. Banners were a common organization of nomad ...
s from 1579 through the mid-17th century.


Location

Gibelacar is located in Jabal Akkar, the northernmost slopes of the
Mount Lebanon Mount Lebanon (, ; , ; ) is a mountain range in Lebanon. It is about long and averages above in elevation, with its peak at . The range provides a typical alpine climate year-round. Mount Lebanon is well-known for its snow-covered mountains, ...
range. It is 27 kilometers south of the
Krak des Chevaliers Krak des Chevaliers (; , ; or , ; from , ) is a medieval castle in Syria and one of the most important preserved medieval castles in the world. The site was first inhabited in the 11th century by Kurds, Kurdish troops garrisoned there by ...
in
Syria Syria, officially the Syrian Arab Republic, is a country in West Asia located in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Levant. It borders the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Turkey to Syria–Turkey border, the north, Iraq to Iraq–Syria border, t ...
, at the opposite end of the
Homs Gap The Homs Gap () (also called the Akkar Gap and known in Arabic as al-Buqay'a) is a relatively flat passage in the Orontes River Valley of southern Syria. Nicknamed the "gateway to Syria," the gap separates the An-Nusayriyah Mountains and Jabal Z ...
.Kennedy, pp. 67–68. Gibelacar is situated on a narrow ridge formed by the two ravines of the Nahr Akkar stream. Though largely ruined, the remains of the fortress extend the entire length of the 200-meter ridge. Its tower, which stands at the southern end of the ridge, is still well-preserved. The site has an elevation of 700 meters above sea level and has a commanding view over the mountain road leading to the fortress.


History


Arab origins

Gibelacar was referred to by the
Arabs Arabs (,  , ; , , ) are an ethnic group mainly inhabiting the Arab world in West Asia and North Africa. A significant Arab diaspora is present in various parts of the world. Arabs have been in the Fertile Crescent for thousands of yea ...
as . The fortress secured the Hims–Tripoli Gap and overlooked the northernmost slopes of
Mount Lebanon Mount Lebanon (, ; , ; ) is a mountain range in Lebanon. It is about long and averages above in elevation, with its peak at . The range provides a typical alpine climate year-round. Mount Lebanon is well-known for its snow-covered mountains, ...
. According to Arabic sources, the fortress's namesake and founder was Muhriz ibn Akkar, who built it in .Deschamps 1973, p. 307. Hisn Ibn Akkar remained in the hands of Muhriz's family until 1019. Later, during a rebellion against the
Fatimid Caliphate The Fatimid Caliphate (; ), also known as the Fatimid Empire, was a caliphate extant from the tenth to the twelfth centuries CE under the rule of the Fatimids, an Isma'ili Shi'a dynasty. Spanning a large area of North Africa and West Asia, i ...
in 1024, it was captured by
Salih ibn Mirdas Abu Ali Salih ibn Mirdas (), also known by his ''Arabic name#Laqab, laqab'' (honorific epithet) Asad al-Dawla ('Lion of the State'), was the founder of the Mirdasid dynasty and emir of Ancient City of Aleppo, Aleppo from 1025 until his death in ...
, the preeminent chieftain of the
Banu Kilab The Banu Kilab () was an Arab tribe in the western Najd (central Arabian Peninsula, Arabia) where they controlled the horse-breeding pastures of Dariyya from the mid-6th century until at least the mid-9th century. The tribe was divided into ten br ...
tribe and founder of the
Mirdasid dynasty The Mirdasid dynasty (), also called the Banu Mirdas, was an Arab Shia Muslim dynasty which ruled an Aleppo-based emirate in northern Syria and the western Jazira (Upper Mesopotamia) more or less continuously from 1024 until 1080. History Do ...
. Fatimid authority was restored in 1033 when the governor of
Tripoli Tripoli or Tripolis (from , meaning "three cities") may refer to: Places Greece *Tripolis (region of Arcadia), a district in ancient Arcadia, Greece * Tripolis (Larisaia), an ancient Greek city in the Pelasgiotis district, Thessaly, near Larissa ...
seized the fortress from the Mirdasids. This came after the Fatimid army defeated the Kilab and killed Salih at the
Battle of al-Uqhuwana The Battle of al-Uqhuwana () was fought at a place east of Lake Tiberias in May 1029 between the Fatimid Caliphate under general Anushtakin al-Dizbari and a coalition of Syrian Bedouin tribes. The latter was represented by the Tayy tribe of Pal ...
in May 1029. The
Seljuk Seljuk (, ''Selcuk'') or Saljuq (, ''Saljūq'') may refer to: * Seljuk Empire (1051–1153), a medieval empire in the Middle East and central Asia * Seljuk dynasty (c. 950–1307), the ruling dynasty of the Seljuk Empire and subsequent polities * S ...
ruler of
Damascus Damascus ( , ; ) is the capital and List of largest cities in the Levant region by population, largest city of Syria. It is the oldest capital in the world and, according to some, the fourth Holiest sites in Islam, holiest city in Islam. Kno ...
,
Tutush I Abu Sa'id Taj al-Dawla Tutush (; died 25 February 1095) or Tutush I, was the Seljuk emir of Damascus from 1078 to 1092, and sultan of Damascus from 1092 to 1094. Years under Malik Shah Tutush was a brother of the Seljuk sultan Malik-Shah I. In ...
, captured the fortress in 1094.


Crusader control and constructions

By the time of the Crusader invasion of Tripoli's countryside in the early 12th century, Hisn Ibn Akkar was in the hands of Tughtakin, the Burid ruler of Damascus. The Crusaders conquered Tripoli in 1109 and were poised to capture the important fortress of Rafaniyya (Raphanea) to the north of Hisn Ibn Akkar. To prevent this, Tughtakin made an agreement with the Crusaders, giving them Hisn Ibn Akkar in exchange for desisting from attacking Rafaniyya. Nearby Hisn al-Akrad (known by Crusaders as ''Krak des Chevaliers'') was made to pay tribute to the Crusaders, but the latter nonetheless seized the fortress in 1110. Hisn Ibn Akkar was called ''Guibelacard'' by the Crusaders as early as 1143, but was officially renamed ''Gibelacar'' in an 1170 edict. For much of the first half of the 12th century, Gibelacar was controlled by the Puylaurens, a large baronial family of the
County of Tripoli The County of Tripoli (1102–1289) was one of the Crusader states. It was founded in the Levant in the modern-day region of Tripoli, Lebanon, Tripoli, northern Lebanon and parts of western Syria. When the Crusades, Frankish Crusaders, mostly O ...
. The fortress served as the family's feudal seat until circa 1167, when it was captured by the
Zengid The Zengid or Zangid dynasty, also referred to as the Atabegate of Mosul, Aleppo and Damascus (Arabic: أتابكة الموصل وحلب ودمشق), or the Zengid State (Old Anatolian Turkish: , Modern Turkish: ; ) was initially an '' Atabegat ...
lord Nur ad-Din. In January 1169 or between December 1169 and January 1170, the Crusaders recaptured Gibelacar and imprisoned its Zengid governor Qutlug al-Alamdar.Deschamps 1973, p. 308. The County of Tripoli was then held in regency by King
Amalric I of Jerusalem Amalric (; 113611 July 1174), formerly known in historiography as , was the king of Jerusalem from 1163 until his death. He was, in the opinion of his Muslim adversaries, the bravest and cleverest of the crusader kings. Amalric was the younger ...
while its count
Raymond III of Tripoli Raymond III (1140 – September/October 1187) was count of Tripoli from 1152 to 1187. He was a minor when Nizari Assassins murdered his father, Count Raymond II of Tripoli. His cousin, King Baldwin III of Jerusalem, who was staying ...
was held captive by Zengid forces. The fortress was destroyed in a massive earthquake that began on 29 June 1170 and whose after shocks lasted until 24 July. Afterward, King Amalric assigned control of Gibelacar to the
Knights Hospitallers The Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem, commonly known as the Knights Hospitaller (), is a Catholic military order. It was founded in the crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem in the 12th century and had headquarters there u ...
with instructions to restore its fortifications. However, this assignment may not have been official as contemporary court records indicate Gibelacar was still directly under the jurisdiction of the County of Tripoli. At the beginning of the 13th century, control of Gibelacar passed to the Crusader lord of
Nephin Nephin or Nefin (), at 806 metres (2646 ft), is the highest standalone mountain in Ireland and the second-highest peak in Connacht (after Mweelrea). It is to the west of Lough Conn in County Mayo. Location It lies in the centre of Gl ...
, Raynouard III, who acquired it as a result of his marriage in 1203/04 to an Isabelle, daughter of Gibelacar's previous lord, a certain Astafort. Raynouard's control was confirmed by Raymond III, who had since been restored as the count of Tripoli. However, because the transfer was done without the approval of Raynouard's lord,
Bohemond IV of Antioch Bohemond IV of Antioch, also known as Bohemond the One-Eyed (; 11751233), was Count of Tripoli from 1187 to 1233, and Prince of Antioch from 1201 to 1216 and from 1219 to 1233. He was the younger son of Bohemond III of Antioch. The dying Raymond ...
, the latter opposed the move and a civil war ensued. Bohemond razed Nephin, captured Raynouard and released him in exchange for handing over Gibelacar in 1205. Raynouard subsequently left for
Cyprus Cyprus (), officially the Republic of Cyprus, is an island country in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. Situated in West Asia, its cultural identity and geopolitical orientation are overwhelmingly Southeast European. Cyprus is the List of isl ...
, where he died.


Mamluk capture

The fortress remained in the hands of Bohemond IV's royal successors until the
Mamluk Mamluk or Mamaluk (; (singular), , ''mamālīk'' (plural); translated as "one who is owned", meaning "slave") were non-Arab, ethnically diverse (mostly Turkic, Caucasian, Eastern and Southeastern European) enslaved mercenaries, slave-so ...
sultan
Baybars Al-Malik al-Zahir Rukn al-Din Baybars al-Bunduqdari (; 1223/1228 – 1 July 1277), commonly known as Baibars or Baybars () and nicknamed Abu al-Futuh (, ), was the fourth Mamluk sultan of Egypt and Syria, of Turkic Kipchak origin, in the Ba ...
wrested control of it soon after capturing the Krak des Chevaliers on 8 April 1271. Baybars personally commanded the march toward Gibelacar on 28 April and experienced great difficulty in transporting his siege engines through the mountainous forests surrounding the fortress. The Mamluks' bombardment commenced on 2 May and during the fighting, a Mamluk emir, Rukn al-Din al-Mankurus al-Dawadari, was killed by a Crusader projectile while praying. By 4 May the defenders were virtually defeated, but held out until surrendering on 11 May in exchange for safe passage to Tripoli. Baybars had his signature leopard emblem sculpted on a frieze on Gibelacar's main tower.Deschamps 1973, pp. 308–309.


Headquarters of the Sayfa clan

In the 1520s
Yusuf Sayfa Yusuf Sayfa Pasha (; – 22 July 1625) was a chieftain and ''multazim'' (tax farmer) in the Tripoli region who frequently served as the Ottoman ''beylerbey'' (provincial governor) of Tripoli Eyalet between 1579 and his death. Yusuf or his f ...
, an Ottoman ''
levend Levend or levendi (Arabic ''lawend'') was a name for irregular soldiers. The term originated with the Ottoman Navy, but eventually spread to encompass most irregular troops. The origin of the term is probably from Italian ''levanti'', and was u ...
'' (irregular soldier) of Turkmen origins, or his family, established themselves in Hisn Ibn Akkar, which had become the fortified center of its own village by then. From there the family became a local power, subordinate first to the Shu'aybs, lords of
Arqa Arqa (; ) is a Lebanese village near Miniara in Akkar Governorate, Lebanon, 22 km northeast of Tripoli, near the coast. The town was a notable city-state during the Iron Age. The city of ''Irqata'' sent 10,000 soldiers to the coalition a ...
, and later the Assafs, Turkmen lords of
Ghazir Ghazir () is a town and municipality in the Keserwan District of the Keserwan-Jbeil Governorate of Lebanon. It is located north of Beirut. It has an average elevation of 380 meters above sea level and a total land area of . Ghazir is divided ...
. In 1579 Yusuf was appointed governor of a new
eyalet Eyalets (, , ), also known as beylerbeyliks or pashaliks, were the primary administrative divisions of the Ottoman Empire. From 1453 to the beginning of the nineteenth century the Ottoman local government was loosely structured. The empire was a ...
(province) centered in Tripoli and grew increasingly independent of the Assafs. In addition to his lack of a strong local following in the area of the type possessed by the long-established Assafs and his intimate familiarity with the local chieftains, Yusuf was also appointed because of the relative ease of access of his Hisn Ibn Akkar stronghold from the major cities of the Syrian interior through the Homs Gap; the Ottomans would thus have the ability to intervene against Yusuf or his family in case they became recalcitrant, unlike other local chiefs whose strongholds were nestled deep in the Mount Lebanon range. Hisn Ibn Akkar was one of several targets of an Ottoman imperial expedition in 1585. The assault was led by Yusuf's replacement as governor of Tripoli, Ja'far Pasha. Afterward, the Sayfas became once again fiscally subordinate to the Assafs until Yusuf had the last Assaf chieftain Muhammad assassinated in 1590.


References


Bibliography

* * * * {{coord, 34.5250, N, 36.2417, E, source:wikidata, display=title 11th-century fortifications Akkar District Castles and fortifications of the Knights Hospitaller Castles in Lebanon Fatimid fortifications