Hazel Findlay
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Hazel Findlay (born May 1989) is a British traditional climber,
sport climber Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors t ...
and
big wall climber Big wall climbing is a type of rock climbing where a climber ascends a long multi-pitch route, normally requiring more than a single day to complete the climb. Big wall routes require the climbing team to live on the route often using portaledges ...
. She was the first female British climber to climb a route graded E9, and a route graded . She did the third ascent of the
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
traditional route ''Magic Line'' . She has free climbed
El Capitán El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about from base to summit along its tallest ...
four times on four different routes and made many first female ascents on other routes. ''Climbing'' magazine gave her their Golden Piton award for traditional climbing in 2013.


Biography

Findlay was born in 1989,. the daughter of climber Steve Findlay. She began climbing on the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire with her father when she was six years old.. She became a six-time junior national rock climbing champion, but gave up indoor competitive climbing in favour of trad climbing. She is a graduate of the
University of Bristol The University of Bristol is a Red brick university, red brick Russell Group research university in Bristol, England. It received its royal charter in 1909, although it can trace its roots to a Society of Merchant Venturers, Merchant Venturers' sc ...
, where she studied philosophy.. She lives in North Wales.


Notable climbs

Findlay made the 3rd ascent of Magic Line (2nd ascent placing the gear) 5.14c/bc+ (E10) Findlay made the first female ascent of a British E9 grade climb with her June 2011 climb of Dave Birkett's route ''Once Upon a Time in the South West'' (E9 6c) at Dyer's Lookout in
Devon Devon ( , historically known as Devonshire , ) is a ceremonial and non-metropolitan county in South West England. The most populous settlement in Devon is the city of Plymouth, followed by Devon's county town, the city of Exeter. Devon is ...
.. She is the first British woman to free climb
El Capitán El Capitan ( es, El Capitán; "the Captain" or "the Chief") is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about from base to summit along its tallest ...
in
Yosemite National Park Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ...
, which she has done four times: she made the first female ascent of ''Golden Gate'' in 2011,. the first female ascent of ''Pre-Muir Wall'' in 2012, and an ascent of ''Freerider'' in only three days in 2013. In 2017 she free-climbed the ''
Salathé Wall The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original technical climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbi ...
''. She was the first person to free-climb ''Adder Crack'' (5.13a), in
Squamish, British Columbia Squamish (; Sḵwx̱wú7mesh sníchim: Sḵwx̱wú7mesh, ; 2016 census population 19,512) is a community and a district municipality in the Canadian province of British Columbia, located at the north end of Howe Sound on the Sea to Sky Highway. ...
, in 2012. With Jack Geldard, she made the first ascent of the front face of the Aiguille de Saussure, a spire in the
Mont Blanc massif The Mont Blanc massif (french: Massif du Mont-Blanc; it, Massiccio del Monte Bianco) is a mountain range in the Alps, located mostly in France and Italy, but also straddling Switzerland at its northeastern end. It contains eleven major indepen ...
,
Chamonix Chamonix-Mont-Blanc ( frp, Chamôni), more commonly known as Chamonix, is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924. In 2019, it ha ...
, France, also in 2012. A more complete list of Hazel's ascents can be found o
theCrag
She was the first person to climb 'Tainted Love' in Squamish (5.13d). Other first female ascents of trad routes by Findlay include: *''Air Sweden'' (5.13b R) in Indian Creek, Utah, in April 2010. *''69'' (5.13b/c) in Squamish, later in 2010. *''San Simeon'' (E8) in Pembrokeshire, in May 2011. * ''The Doors'' (approx 5.13) in Cadarese,
Italy Italy ( it, Italia ), officially the Italian Republic, ) or the Republic of Italy, is a country in Southern Europe. It is located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, and its territory largely coincides with the homonymous geographical ...
, in 2012. *''Chicama'' (E9 6c) in
Anglesey Anglesey (; cy, (Ynys) Môn ) is an island off the north-west coast of Wales. It forms a Local government in Wales, principal area known as the Isle of Anglesey, that includes Holy Island, Anglesey, Holy Island across the narrow Cymyran Strai ...
, in early 2013. *First ascent of ''Tainted Love'' (5.13d R, 8b+, E9) in Squamish, in April 2018.. *''Magic Line'' (5.14c R, 8c+, E10) in
Yosemite Yosemite National Park ( ) is an American national park in California, surrounded on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The park is managed by the National Park Service and covers an ar ...
, on 26 November 2019. *''Mission Impossible'' (E9 7a) on
Gallt yr Ogof Gallt yr Ogof is a mountain in Snowdonia, North Wales. It is a subsidiary top of Glyder Fawr, and is the most easterly point in the Glyderau mountain range, not including the hill Cefn y Capel. Gallt yr Ogof is 763 metres high. It is a sister p ...
, Wales, on 22 September 2020. As well as trad climbing, Findlay has also climbed
sport climbing Sport climbing (or Bolted climbing) is a form of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors (or bolts), permanently fixed into the rock for climber protection, in which a rope that is attached to the climber is clipped into the anchors ...
routes; most notably: *In 2014, she climbed ''Fish Eye'' in
Oliana Oliana is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir. There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence of ...
,
Spain , image_flag = Bandera de España.svg , image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg , national_motto = '' Plus ultra'' ( Latin)(English: "Further Beyond") , national_anthem = (English: "Royal March") , ...
, reaching a difficulty level of 8c/5.14b. Although not a first female ascent (the route had been climbed in 2010 by Daila Ojeda) it was the highest level attained by a British female climber. *In 2017, she climbed ''Mind Control'' (8c), also in Oliana. *In 2022, she climbed Esclatamasters (9a) in Spain


Awards and sponsorship

''Climbing'' magazine gave Findlay their Golden Piton award for trad climbing in 2013, citing climbs including ''Chicama'' and ''Freerider''.. She is professionally sponsored by
Black Diamond Equipment Black Diamond Equipment is a manufacturer of equipment for climbing, skiing, and mountain sports, based in Utah, United States. The company also has a global office in Innsbruck, Austria. The company is owned by Clarus Corporation, which also ...
,
La Sportiva La Sportiva is a footwear brand founded in 1928 by Narciso Delladio in Italy. He started his business by manufacturing boots and clogs for farmers and lumberjacks. In World War II, he helped to provide Italy's soldiers with custom mountaineerin ...
, Sea to Summit, Motion Nutrition


References


External links

*
Hazel Findlay's profile on theCrag
{{DEFAULTSORT:FIndlay, Hazel 1989 births Living people British rock climbers Alumni of the University of Bristol Female climbers