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A Hawaiian quilt is a distinctive
quilt A quilt is a multi-layered textile, traditionally composed of two or more layers of fabric or fiber. Commonly three layers are used with a filler material. These layers traditionally include a woven cloth top, a layer of padding, batting or w ...
ing style of the
Hawaiian Islands The Hawaiian Islands () are an archipelago of eight major volcanic islands, several atolls, and numerous smaller islets in the Pacific Ocean, North Pacific Ocean, extending some from the Hawaii (island), island of Hawaii in the south to nort ...
that uses large radially symmetric applique patterns. Motifs often work stylized botanical designs in bold colors on a white background. Hawaiian quilt
appliqué Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique ...
is made from a single cut on folded
fabric Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, and different types of fabric. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is no ...
. Quilting stitches normally follow the contours of the appliqué design.


History

Hawaiian quilting derives from the
kapa moe Kapa is a Textile, fabric made by native Hawaiians from the bast fibres of certain species of trees and shrubs in the orders Rosales and Malvales. The bark is beaten and felted to achieve a soft texture and dye stamped in geometric patterns. Des ...
, an indigenous bed cover textile. Kapa was constructed from the inner bark of local trees. Traditional kapa was beaten and
felt Felt is a textile that is produced by matting, condensing, and pressing fibers together. Felt can be made of natural fibers such as wool or animal fur, or from synthetic fibers such as petroleum-based acrylic fiber, acrylic or acrylonitrile or ...
ed, then
dyed Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular ch ...
in geometric patterns. Quilting may have begun in the Hawaiian islands with the arrival of
missionaries A missionary is a member of a religious group who is sent into an area in order to promote its faith or provide services to people, such as education, literacy, social justice, health care, and economic development.Thomas Hale 'On Being a Miss ...
and Western fabrics in the 1820s. The climate of Hawaii is unsuitable for
cotton Cotton (), first recorded in ancient India, is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure ...
cultivation and kapa is unsuitable for quilting so all Hawaiian quilts are constructed from imported material. The earliest written reference comes from
Isabella Bird Isabella Lucy Bishop (; 15 October 1831 – 7 October 1904) was an English explorer, writer, photographer and naturalist. Alongside fellow Englishwoman Fanny Jane Butler, she founded the John Bishop Memorial Hospital in Srinagar in modern-da ...
who visited Hawaii in 1870 and wrote a travelogue ''Six Months in the Sandwich Islands''.


Flag quilts

Another Hawaiian quilt style is the Hawaiian flag quilt, also known as ''Ku’u Hae Aloha'' ("My Beloved Flag" or "Lost Beloved Flag") quilts. The typical flag quilt includes four Hawaiian flags surrounding the coat of arms of the Hawaiian Royal Family or crown.Hammond, Joyce D., "Hawaiian Flag Quilts: Multivalent Symbols of a Hawaiian Quilt Tradition" (1993). Anthropology. Paper 14. http://cedar.wwu.edu/anthropology_facpubs/14 Flag quilts combine pieced work with appliquéd motifs, unlike other traditional Hawaiian quilts, which do not use pieced work. Flag quilts may have originated as early as 1843, when
Lord George Paulet Lord George Paulet CB (12 August 1803 – 22 November 1879) was a British officer of the Royal Navy. He entered the navy shortly after the end of the Napoleonic Wars and after some years obtained his own command. He served off the Iberian Peni ...
claimed the Hawaiian Islands for the British and ordered all Hawaiian flags destroyed. Many of these flag quilts date back to the overthrow of the monarchy, when displaying the Hawaiian flag was considered treason. Quilts bearing symbols of the monarchy were a form of silent resistance. File:Ku'u Hae Aloha (My Beloved Flag), Hawaiian cotton quilt from Waimea, before 1918, Honolulu Academy of Arts.jpg, K''uʻu Hae Aloha (My Beloved Flag)'', Hawaiian cotton quilt from Waimea, before 1918,
Honolulu Museum of Art The Honolulu Museum of Art (formerly the Honolulu Academy of Arts) is an art museum in Honolulu, Hawaii, Hawaii. The museum is the largest of its kind in the state, and was founded in 1922 by Anna Rice Cooke. It has one of the largest single co ...
File:Ua Mau Ke Ea O Ka Aina I ka Pono-Halepualani, Hawaiian quilt, Honolulu Museum of Art 5469.1.JPG, '' Ua Mau Ke Ea O Ka Aina I ka Pono-Halepualani'', Hawaiian quilt, silk satin, wool batting, cotton, Honolulu Museum of Art File:Na Kihapai Nani Lua 'Ole O Edena a Me Elenale (The Beautiful Unequaled Gardens of Eden and of Elenale), Hawaiian cotton quilt, before 1918, Honolulu Academy of Arts.jpg, ''Na Kihapai Nani Lua ʻOle O Edena a Me Elenale (The Beautiful Unequaled Gardens of Eden and of Elenale)'', Hawaiian cotton quilt, before 1918, Honolulu Museum of Art


Other styles

Hawaiian quilters have also made quilts using other styles and techniques, such as embroidery and
crazy quilting The term "crazy quilting" is often used to refer to the textile art of crazy patchwork and is sometimes used interchangeably with that term. Crazy quilting does not actually refer to a specific kind of quilting (the needlework which binds two or ...
. The most famous Hawaiian crazy quilt is the one made by
Queen Liliuokalani Queen most commonly refers to: * Queen regnant, a female monarch of a kingdom * Queen consort, the wife of a reigning king * Queen (band), a British rock band Queen or QUEEN may also refer to: Monarchy * Queen dowager, the widow of a king * Q ...
during her internment after the overthrow of the monarchy.


Value

Antique Hawaiian flag quilts fetch higher prices than applique quilts: high quality flag quilts may be valued at $40,000 - $60,000 while applique quilts sell for $9000 – $15,000. Factors that affect price include the quality of the original construction, preservation of the item's color and physical integrity, and
provenance Provenance () is the chronology of the ownership, custody or location of a historical object. The term was originally mostly used in relation to works of art, but is now used in similar senses in a wide range of fields, including archaeology, p ...
."Why Hawaiian Quilts?" '' Antiques Road Show

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See also

*
Hawaiian art The Hawaiian archipelago consists of 137 islands in the Pacific Ocean that are far from any other land. Polynesians arrived there one to two thousand years ago, and in 1778 Captain James Cook and his crew became the first Europeans to visit Hawa ...


References

* Serrao, Poakalani, ''The Hawaiian quilt, A spiritual experience, Reflection on its history, heritage, designing, quilting methods and patterns'', Honolulu, Mutual Pub., 1997. * Severson, Don R., ''Finding Paradise, Island Art in Private Collections'', University of Hawaii Press, 2002, 237-254.


Footnotes


External links


The Queen's QuiltBishop Museum Quilt DatabaseA Stitch in Time
Article about Hawaiian quilters by Cheryl Tsutsumi. ''
Maui No Ka 'Oi Magazine Maui (; Hawaiian: ) is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago, at 727.2 square miles (1,883 km2). It is the 17th-largest in the United States. Maui is one of Maui County's five islands, along with Molokai, Lānai, K ...
'' Vol. 12 No.6 (November 2008). {{Layered textiles Quilting
Quilts A quilt is a multi-layered textile, traditionally composed of two or more layers of fabric or fiber. Commonly three layers are used with a filler material. These layers traditionally include a woven cloth top, a layer of padding, batting or w ...