Haramosh Peak (), also known as Haramosh or Peak 58, is a

Karakoram The Karakoram () is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range is withi ...

range Range may refer to: Geography * Range (geographic), a chain of hills or mountains; a somewhat linear, complex mountainous or hilly area (cordillera, sierra) ** Mountain range, a group of mountains bordered by lowlands * Range, a term used to i ...

mountain located in

Gilgit-Baltistan Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative units of Pakistan, administrative territory and consists of the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region, which has b ...

Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...

. The 7,409-meter Haramosh Peak is situated roughly 65 kilometers (40 miles) to the east of

Gilgit Gilgit (; Shina language, Shina: ; ) is a city in Pakistani-administered Gilgit-Baltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan in the disputed Kashmir region.The application of the term "administered" to the various regions of Kashmir and a mention of the Kas ...

, within the south-central part of the

Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains The Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains are a subrange of the Karakoram range. They are located in the Bagrot Valley in the Gilgit and Nagar districts of the Gilgit-Baltistan region, Pakistan. Geography Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains are bordered by ...

, which is a subrange of the Karakoram range. This mountain rises steeply above the north bank of the

Indus River The Indus ( ) is a transboundary river of Asia and a trans-Himalayas, Himalayan river of South Asia, South and Central Asia. The river rises in mountain springs northeast of Mount Kailash in the Western Tibet region of China, flows northw ...

, just upstream from its confluence with the

Gilgit River The Gilgit River () is a tributary of the Indus River, flowing through various districts of Pakistan's Gilgit-Baltistan region, including Gupis-Yasin, Ghizer and Gilgit. The Gilgit River originates from Shandur Lake and proceeds to join the I ...

. The Haramosh massif consists of two main summits: Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak. The Haramosh Peak was first successfully climbed in 1958 by an Austrian team comprising Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl.

Climbing history

Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 when a

Swiss Swiss most commonly refers to: * the adjectival form of Switzerland * Swiss people Swiss may also refer to: Places * Swiss, Missouri * Swiss, North Carolina * Swiss, West Virginia * Swiss, Wisconsin Other uses * Swiss Café, an old café located ...

team explored the area. Subsequently, in 1955, a

German German(s) may refer to: * Germany, the country of the Germans and German things **Germania (Roman era) * Germans, citizens of Germany, people of German ancestry, or native speakers of the German language ** For citizenship in Germany, see also Ge ...

team investigated a potential northeastern route to the mountain. However, it was in 1957 that Haramosh became the site of an ill-fated expedition. A team from

Oxford University The University of Oxford is a collegiate research university in Oxford, England. There is evidence of teaching as early as 1096, making it the oldest university in the English-speaking world and the second-oldest continuously operating u ...

, consisting of Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot, and Rae Culbert, attempted to conquer the peak but faced a series of mishaps and misfortunes during their ascent. This expedition led to the loss of Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert's lives, while Tony Streather and John Emery survived. Emery, however, endured severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes as a result of the ordeal. The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's ''The Last Blue Mountain''. Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by three

Austrian Austrian may refer to: * Austrians, someone from Austria or of Austrian descent ** Someone who is considered an Austrian citizen * Austrian German dialect * Something associated with the country Austria, for example: ** Austria-Hungary ** Austria ...

mountaineers: Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy. According to the Himalayan Index, there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (

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, Southwest Face).

References

Sources

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External links

Picture of the Haramosh south face

ranked by local relief and steepness (Reduced Spire Measure) features Haramosh as the world #17. {{Authority control Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan