A Grigri (styled as GriGri or GRIGRI) is an assisted braking

belay device A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the righ ...

manufactured by

Petzl Petzl is a French manufacturer of climbing gear, caving gear, work-at-height equipment, and headlamps based in Crolles (near Grenoble), France. The company was created by the cave explorer Fernand Petzl in the mid-1970s. Their three speci ...

designed to help secure rock-climbing, rappelling, and rope-acrobatic activities. Its main characteristic is a clutch that assists in braking under a shock load. The success of this device has led to ''grigri'' becoming a

common name In biology, a common name of a taxon or organism (also known as a vernacular name, English name, colloquial name, country name, popular name, or farmer's name) is a name that is based on the normal language of everyday life; and is often con ...

for devices of this type. In 2011 a new version, the Grigri 2, was released to replace the original 1991 model. Petzl released the Grigri+ in 2017, adding new safety features to the original design. However this made the device heavier and many climbers felt the new safety features (specifically the anti panic handle which stopped the device from lowering when the handle was pulled too far back) got in the way of normal operation when lowering. 2019 saw the release of an updated version of the device, simply called the Grigri. It is named for the African amulet gris-gris, believed to protect the wearer from evil.

Mechanism of operation

The Grigri works by pinching the rope when it is moving quickly (like in a fall), making it an

assisted braking belay device A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. With the right ...

. This function distinguishes it from traditional belay devices such as a Sticht plate or an ATC, whose braking mechanisms depend entirely on the user controlling the rope in a specific manner to increase or decrease friction. Inside the Grigri, the rope runs along a

cam Cam or CAM may refer to: Science and technology * Cam (mechanism), a mechanical linkage which translates motion * Camshaft, a shaft with a cam * Camera or webcam, a device that records images or video In computing * Computer-aided manufacturin ...

; the cam allows the rope to pass if moving slowly but rotates when the rope moves more quickly, blocking further movement by pinching the rope against the inside of the device.

Uses and limitations

Petzl recommends the device for lead belaying and top-rope belaying, according to EN 15151 standard. When used correctly, the Grigri's camming mechanism can assist in holding a climber that is working a route, or hanging on the rope while trying to figure out a climb. When belaying, the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or similar device is used. While paying slack out into the system, if the device is held open by pressing on the cam and the climber falls, the device will lock as long as the belayer is holding the brake strand. However, the device will not lock should the belayer let go of the brake strand while holding the cam in the open position. Each generation of the GriGri has a lower limit for the rope diameter for which the cam will engage, and an upper limit for maximum rope diameter to allow for feeding. - The original Grigri is stamped MIN 10 MAX 11. - The manufacturer recommends the GriGri 2 to be used only with 8.9 to 11mm diameter ropes. - Grigri+ and Grigri (2019) expand that lower range to be used with 8.5 to 11mm diameter ropes, with the 'sweet spot' being 8.9 to 10.5mm. This device has just one place for installing rope and it can't be used in climbing with

half rope Kernmantle rope () is rope constructed with its interior core protected by a woven exterior sheath designed to optimize strength, durability, and flexibility. The core fibers provide the tensile strength of the rope, while the sheath protects the ...

. This device is not suitable for left-handed belay technique. There is a sharp edge on the side that will fray rope if used left-handed, but a smooth flange to protect the rope while belaying right-handed. However, there are special techniques that allow left-handed belayers to use this device, like reorienting it to face the other way. File:Red GriGri front side.jpg, Red GriGri front side, edition circa 2022–2023 File:Back side of red GriGri circa 2022–2023 version.jpg, Back side of GriGri edition circa 2022–2023

Big wall use

While the Grigri was designed as a

belay In climbing and mountaineering, belaying comprises techniques used to create friction within a climbing protection system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies ...

device, some

big wall climber Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long and sheer multi-pitch routes (of ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. Big wall routes are sustained and ...

s (such as those climbing Yosemite's

Half Dome Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three s ...

El Capitan El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...

) have invented novel ways to extend its use and compromise its safety. For example, some big wall rope soloists use the Grigri (sometimes slightly modified) as a self-feeding hands-free

self-belay Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i.e. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, th ...

device. It has also seen use by the second to self-belay while jumaring the rope as one half of the ascender pair. The manufacturer holds uses outside of those validated come with considerable risks, and its official documentation goes so far as to expressly prohibit certain uses.

Parts of the GriGri and GriGri+

There are seven parts that the GriGri and the GriGri+ have in common. * Moving side plate * Cam * Cam axle * Friction plate * Handle * Fixed side plate * Attachment holes The GriGri+ has two additional components: * Selector knob * Lock button

References

External links

Grigri (rock-climbing)Video: Belaying the leader with a GrigriPetzl GriGri Review
with videos {{DEFAULTSORT:Grigri (Climbing) Caving equipment Climbing equipment Mountaineering equipment