Great Divide Trail

The Great Divide Trail (GDT) is a hiking trail in the Canadian Rockies, made up of several trails connected by roads and wilderness routes. It closely follows the Great Divide between Alberta and British Columbia, crossing it more than 30 times. Its southern terminus is at the Canada–US border (where it connects with the Continental Divide Trail), and its northern terminus is at Kakwa Lake, north of Jasper National Park. The trail is long and ranges in elevation from to . Although the idea and first trail work goes back to the 1960s, the project went dormant for decades until the early 2000s.

History

The first record of the Great Divide Trail appears in 1966, when the Girl Guides of Canada proposed the idea of a trail running the length of the BC–Alberta border through the Rocky Mountains. In 1970, Jim Thorsell published the ''Provisional Trail Guide and Map for the Proposed Great Divide Trail''. Thorsell's route comprised roughly the middle 50% of the modern trail, from Banff's southern boundary at Palliser Pass to Berg Lake. Parks Canada approved the project, with the objective of completing the GDT in five years.

Outside of the national parks, the route south of Palliser Pass was originally mapped in 1974 by six University of Calgary students with support from the Alberta Wilderness Association and the Federal Opportunities for Youth Program. Mary Jane Cox, Jenny Feick, Chris Hart, Dave Higgins, Cliff White, and Dave Zevick surveyed an estimated along the proposed GDT route through public lands. Despite initially low enthusiasm from the Alberta and BC governments, whose representatives cited a lack of interest in the trail and a priority on resource development, the group founded the Great Divide Trail Association (GDTA) and began trail construction in the summer of 1976. By the mid-1980s, with funding from the Alberta government, crews had built 90 km of trail from North Fork Pass to Fording River Pass. When support from the province of Alberta ended, and logging and off-road vehicle use destroyed trails, work ceased, and the GDTA became inactive.

In 2000, Dustin Lynx revived the GDT by releasing his guidebook ''Hiking Canada's Great Divide Trail''. By 2004, a group known as the Friends of the Great Divide Trail began to work on the GDT once again, particularly in the unprotected Alberta Crown Forest Reserve lands between Crowsnest Pass and Banff National Park. In 2013, the Friends of the Great Divide Trail re-activated the GDTA as a nonprofit corporation headquartered in Calgary. Since then, the association has conducted annual maintenance and trail-building throughout the length of the GDT.

Geology

The Great Divide Trail is entirely within the Continental Ranges of the Canadian Rocky Mountains and traverses all but their southernmost extent, which stretches well into Montana. These ranges are bounded on the east by the Interior Plains and on the west by the Rocky Mountain Trench. North of Jarvis Creek, just 10km beyond the GDT's northern terminus, the Continental Ranges end and the Hart Ranges begin.

The GDT passes through mountains that are largely composed of sedimentary rock. Limestone, shale, and quartzite are very common along the trail and date from the late Neoproterozoic to the Cretaceous, far younger than the granite and gneiss commonly found in the American Rockies. The exception is in Waterton Lakes National Park, which has some of the oldest rock in the Canadian Rockies, from the Purcell Supergroup.

The Canadian Rockies did not experience additional volcanic uplift, and so the GDT travels through generally lower-elevation valleys and passes than the CDT in the American Rockies. However, the deeper valleys and steep mountain walls caused by heavy glaciation give the Canadian Rockies, particularly the large mountains along the divide, comparable or even greater prominence than the highest American peaks.

Points of interest

There are unique rocks visible from or near the GDT in Waterton Lakes National Park in the Clark Range (Section A). Among the typical layers of limestone and dolomite, there are red and green siltstones called argillite, black bands of igneous Purcell Sill, and stromatolites: fossils of cyanobacteria colonies.

Upper Waterton Lake, at the southern terminus (Section A), is the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies at . It is a finger lake: glaciers carved its present deep, steep-sided shape out of an ancestral river valley, deposited a dam of debris at the northern end of the valley while retreating, and filled the valley with meltwater.

Mount Assiniboine (Section C) on the divide between Banff National Park and Mount Assiniboine Park is an example of a glacial horn, or pyramidal peak. It was shaped by cirque glaciers that eroded its flat, steep sides, and is frequently referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Rockies". With an elevation of , it is one of the ten tallest peaks in the Canadian Rockies.

The Burgess Shale of the Waputik Mountains in Yoho National Park (the Kiwetinok alternate of Section D) is a formation containing large numbers of exceptionally well-preserved fossils dating to over 500 mya. From his discovery of the fossils in 1909 until 1924, Charles Walcott collected 65,000 specimens. The vast diversity of soft-bodied organisms preserved in the formation has been highly informative to paleontology and paleoclimatology.

There are extensive karst systems on or just off the GDT through the Palliser Formation, in and around southern Jasper National Park (Section E). Caves, sinkholes, and slot canyons are formed by slightly acidic surface water dissolving passages in the limestone layers. Examples include caves at the head of Cataract Valley and at the outlet of Medicine Lake, down the Watchtower Access Trail. During most years, the entire flow of the Maligne River drains through underground passages from the lake and emerges in Maligne Canyon, away.

Maligne Canyon itself is an accessible example of a karst slot canyon just off the GDT, at the north end of Section E. It is up to deep and just across at some points. Other examples directly on the GDT include Turbine Canyon in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, near the south end of Section C; Mistaya Canyon, cut into the Eldon Formation at the north end of Section D; and just north of the Owen Creek trailhead in section E.

Maligne Lake (Section E) is the longest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies, at . It was formed after the Last Glacial Maximum, , when the glaciers (diminished but still present at the south end of the lake) rapidly receded, then briefly re-advanced to deposit a large terminal moraine, before retreating to the large mountains beyond Coronet Creek. That moraine now forms the north shore of Maligne Lake.

Mount Robson is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies (elevation ) and the most prominent anywhere in the Rocky Mountains ( from base to peak). Its height is due to its location at the base of a syncline. While nearby mountains are tilted by tectonic forces deforming the rocks, Robson's layers remained relatively horizontal and thus more stable and resistant to erosion. While the highest mountains are usually directly on the continental divide, Mount Robson is several kilometres southwest of the divide, completely within British Columbia. The junction between the North Boundary Trail and the Berg Lake Trail (the transition between Sections F and G) is at the northern base of the Robson Massif.

Route

While portions of the GDT are recognized and supported by the province of Alberta, the GDTA continues to work towards a formal designation, including by Parks Canada, for the long-term protection of the trail. According to the GDTA:

The GDT is officially signed in portions of Sections A, B, D, and G, but elsewhere the GDT is not officially signed. Much of the trail within national and provincial parks is well marked but not identified as the GDT. The route is actually made up of several separate trail systems joined together by ATV tracks, roads, and wilderness routes. The GDT varies from being a well-developed, signed trail to an unmarked, cross-country wilderness route where navigation skills are required.

Since the trail follows the Canadian Rocky Mountains, it runs generally northwest–southeast, with the northern terminus being further north—equivalent to 5° of latitude—and west of the southern terminus. The GDT passes through five national parks, nine provincial parks, four wilderness areas, and four forest districts. The trail is commonly broken up into seven sections, A–G, based on access and resupply.

Section A

Section A runs approximately from the GDT's southern terminus at the Canada–United States border (which is also the northern terminus of the Continental Divide Trail) to the hamlet of Coleman, near Crowsnest Pass.

The southern travel through Waterton Lakes National Park, where much of the area below the treeline burned in the 2017 Kenow Wildfire. This part of the trail visits several notable places, including the Waterton Townsite, Carthew Summit, and the second highest point on the GDT: Lineham Ridge, at .

The rest of the section is mostly in either Castle Wildland Provincial Park or Castle Provincial Park. The trail crosses or straddles the divide frequently, until it descends from La Coulotte Ridge. The northern take a mix of multi-use trails and roads east of the divide.

Alternate routes in Section A include Mt. Rowe-Sage Pass and Barnaby Ridge. Both feature long ridge walks, the latter with short sections classed as scrambling.

Section B

This section connects Crowsnest Pass in the south to Kananaskis in the north. Nearly all of it is in public lands, with no designated campgrounds and no specific permits required.

The section has undergone extensive route improvements since 2013, particularly the High Rock Trail near the south end. The trail was built to keep the route just east of the divide, avoiding private land, including the Line Creek Mine, on the British Columbia side. It passes features such as Window Mountain Lake and Domke Ridge.

The High Rock Trail reconnects with the original GDT, built in the 1970s and 1980s, near where it re-entered Alberta at North Fork Pass. During the next north of this junction, the route passes points of interest, including Tornado Saddle and the Beehive Natural Area.

North of Fording River Pass, the trail crosses into British Columbia and soon begins the longest road walk on the GDT, at nearly ; this can be largely avoided by taking the Coral Pass alternate route. The north end of the road reaches Elk Lakes Provincial Park and, after crossing West Elk Pass, ends the section at Kananaskis Lakes in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.

Section C

In contrast to section B, the section C is entirely within provincial and national parks, requiring permits nearly the entire way. Because the GDT in this section uses some of the most popular hiking trails in Canada, it can be competitive to obtain certain campsites.

In the south, the section starts at Kananaskis Lakes, before climbing over the divide into Height of the Rockies Provincial Park. This, the only area that does not require permits, ends in less than at the Banff National Park boundary at Palliser Pass. Passing Marvel Lake, the route enters Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park at Wonder Pass, visiting Mount Assiniboine and Lake Magog before returning to Banff at Sunshine Meadows.

Over the next , the trail passes through the Egypt Lakes area until leaving Banff and entering Kootenay National Park at Ball Pass to begin the Rockwall. After crossing Goodsir Pass and descending to the Trans-Canada Highway, section C ends in the hamlet of Field, BC. Notable alternates in this section are the Northover Ridge and South Kananaskis Pass routes.

Section D

This is the southernmost section of the GDT with substantial stretches of unmaintained trail. The GDTA describes Section D, at , as the shortest section. Although Section F is about , the northern end is from a trailhead, so completing it requires a greater hiking distance.

From Field, the main route takes an overgrown road up the Amiskwi River to Amiskwi Pass and requires the first significant unbridged river crossings that a northbound hiker will encounter. The popular Kiwetinok Alternate also goes north from Field. It takes maintained trail to Burgess Pass, the Iceline Trail, and Kiwetinok Pass. An off-trail route then reconnects with the main trail at the Amiskwi River about into the section.

From Amiskwi Pass, the route leaves Yoho National Park and follows a gravel road down to the Blaeberry River. From there, hikers use the David Thompson Heritage Trail to reach Howse Pass, where they re-enter Banff National Park. Since 2019, the GDTA has been active in maintaining the stretch of trail outside those National Parks by clearing the DTHT and the Collie Creek Trail, building bridges, and establishing campgrounds.

The northern follow the Howse River out to the Icefield Parkway and Saksatchewan River Crossing.

Section E

This section between Saskatchewan Crossing and the town of Jasper has a mix of high-popularity recreation areas and remote wilderness. Section E is the only section that never crosses the Divide, remaining well east in Alberta. It contains both the highest () and lowest () points on the GDT.

Northbound hikers leave Highway 11 at the Owen Creek trailhead and, once over Owen Pass, exit Banff National Park for the third and final time. For the next , the route uses unsigned but maintained trail in the Job/Cline Public Land Use Zone, and unmaintained trail in the White Goat Wilderness Area. Permits for specific campsites are not required. Highlights in this area include Michelle Lakes, the highpoint of the GDT at an unnamed pass, and Pinto Lake.

At Cataract Pass, the route crosses into Jasper National Park and uses the Brazeau and Poboktan trail network, crossing Jonas Shoulder and Maligne Pass. North of the pass, the trail down the Maligne Valley to Maligne Lake had been unmaintained by Parks Canada for about a decade, leading to rougher hiking and camping conditions. In 2022, Parks Canada began once more to include the trail on official maps, renovate campgrounds, and allow the Friends of Jasper National Park and the GDTA to clear deadfall and overgrowth on the trail. This has improved trail conditions, although there are still unbridged water crossings.

At the north end of Maligne Lake, the GDT uses the popular Skyline Trail and a short stretch of day-use trails or roads to reach the Athabasca River and Jasper.

Section F

The southern end of this section is the townsite of Jasper, but unlike most other sections, the northern end is not near a trailhead but rather at the junction between the North Boundary Trail and Robson Pass Trail to Berg Lake, the original northern terminus of the GDT. Section F uses trails that weave along the boundary of Jasper National Park and Mount Robson Provincial Park.

Northbound, the section starts with approximately along Highway 16 to Yellowhead Pass, before turning northwest up the Miette River. The trail criss-crosses the Divide at a series of low-elevation passes below treeline—Centre (), Grant (), and Colonel ()—to get to the Moose River valley. There, an access trail returns to Highway 16, but the section continues up the Moose River, fording it several times on the way up to Moose Pass. Once over the pass, the trail drops down to the Smoky River and the end of Section F.

Since a flood in 2021 closed the Berg Lake access trail, the GDTA has suggested alternatives to finishing at Mount Robson: the Moose River Trail approximately two-thirds of the way through Section F, the trail from Blueberry Lake to the Holmes River Forest Service Road approximately into Section G, and simply combining Sections F and G into a continuous hike.

Section G

The most northern and remote section of the GDT, Section G is a stretch of infrequently maintained trails and wilderness routes. This distance does not include the exit from the GDT's northern terminus at Kakwa Lake.

From the northern end of Section F, the route continues northwest on the North Boundary Trail, classified as low-priority for maintenance by Jasper National Park, necessitating significant fords of Gendarme, Carcajou, and Chown Creeks.

Crossing Bess Pass leaves the Smoky River watershed and Jasper National Park for Jackpine Pass and Blueberry Lake. The Blueberry Creek access trail drops steeply down from Blueberry Lake to the Holmes River FSR, where the GDTA and Robson Backcountry Adventures operate a resupply service. Hikers not needing to resupply cross into the Willmore Wilderness Park and the Jackpine River valley.

The main route descends to follow the river downstream, while the Perseverance and Loren Lake High Routes remain largely above treeline and rejoin after approximately . Shortly after this junction, the GDT leaves the Jackpine to ascend Big Shale Hill and follow the divide through passes below Mount Talbot, Mount Forget, Mount Morkill, Mount Fetherstonhaugh, and Casket Mountain. A junction with the Sheep Creek trail, which exits at Grande Cache, Alberta, provides an alternate route to pavement.

Near Surprise Pass, the trail leaves the Willmore and enters Kakwa Park in BC. The main route descends to Cecilia Lake; the Surprise Pass alternate remains in the alpine and rejoins near Providence Pass, where another alternate branches off shortly. Kakwa Pass is the final pass for northbound hikers. The trail descends to Kakwa Lake, which has a free, first-come first-served public cabin maintained by volunteer hosts.

From Kakwa Lake, there are two options for exiting the GDT by ground. The most common choice starts with a hike to the nearest vehicle-accessible road at Bastille Creek, and another on the Walker Forest Service Road to reach pavement at Highway 16. Alternatively, hikers can take a mix of trails east to the Lick Creek trailhead in Alberta.

References

Citations

Bibliography

External links

GDTA
website

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Banff National Park
Canadian Rockies
Great Divide of North America
Hiking trails in Alberta
Hiking trails in British Columbia
Jasper National Park
Kootenay National Park
Waterton Lakes National Park
Yoho National Park