Gian Paolo Barbieri
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Gian Paolo Barbieri or Giampaolo Barbieri (1935 – 17 December 2024) was an Italian
fashion photographer Fashion photography is a genre of photography that portrays clothing and other fashion items. This sometimes includes haute couture garments. It typically consists of a fashion photographer taking pictures of a dressed model in a photographic stu ...
.


Life and career

Born on the Via Mazzini in Milan, Barbieri's family were fabric wholesalers, and his father owned a department store. He performed in amateur dramatics in the mid-1950s, forming "The Trio", a performance troupe with his friends. Barbieri also had a non-speaking role in
Luchino Visconti Luchino Visconti di Modrone, Count of Lonate Pozzolo (; 2 November 1906 – 17 March 1976) was an Italian filmmaker, theatre and opera director, and screenwriter. He was one of the fathers of Italian neorealism, cinematic neorealism, but later ...
's film ''Medea''. He was influenced by cinema at an early age and photographed models in 1960s Rome, part of the social scene that was portrayed in
Federico Fellini Federico Fellini (; 20 January 1920 – 31 October 1993) was an Italian film director and screenwriter. He is known for his distinctive style, which blends fantasy and baroque images with earthiness. He is recognized as one of the greatest and ...
's 1960 film ''
La Dolce Vita ''La Dolce Vita'' (; Italian for 'the sweet life' or 'the good life'Kezich, 203) is a 1960 satirical comedy-drama film directed by Federico Fellini and written by Fellini, Ennio Flaiano, Tullio Pinelli, and Brunello Rondi. The film stars M ...
''. A self-taught photographer, his first professional work was an apprenticeship to the ''
Harper's Bazaar ''Harper's Bazaar'' (stylized as ''Harper's BAZAAR'') is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. Bazaar has been published in New York City since November 2, 1867, originally as a weekly publication entitled ''Harper's Bazar''."Corporat ...
'' photographer Tom Kublin, who died twenty days later. In 1963 Barbieri had some images published in the Italian fashion magazine ''Novità'', which became ''
Vogue Italia ''Vogue Italia'' is the Italian edition of '' Vogue'' magazine owned by Condé Nast International. In publication since 1964, it has been called the top fashion magazine in the world. The publication is currently edited by Francesca Ragazzi and ...
'' in 1965. Barbieri also shot for the American and French editions of ''Vogue''. The role of fashion editor had not been fully created in the 1960s, and Barbieri had to find the best setting for his photographs and create the hairstyles, makeup, and jewellery. This could lead to the use of unusual materials, a notable example being earrings made with table tennis balls painted in a
mother-of-pearl Nacre ( , ), also known as mother-of-pearl, is an organicinorganic composite material produced by some molluscs as an inner shell layer. It is also the material of which pearls are composed. It is strong, resilient, and iridescent. Nacre is ...
colour. Barbieri opened his own studio in Milan in 1964, and began to work closely with
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (RTW)also called ''prêt-à-porter'', or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual useis the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a partic ...
fashion designers a few years later. His creative relationship with Walter Albini led to an appreciation of the role of the stylist, and Barbieri and the fashion designer Valentino were responsible for innovations in modern fashion advertising campaigns. Notable models that Barbieri has photographed include Mirella Petteni,
Jerry Hall Jerry Faye Hall (born July 2, 1956) is an American model and actress. She began modeling in the 1970s and became one of the most sought-after models in the world. She transitioned into acting, appearing in the 1989 film ''Batman''. Hall was the ...
,
Veruschka Vera Lehndorff (German: Vera Anna Gottliebe Gräfin von Lehndorff; born 14 May 1939), known professionally as Veruschka, is a German aristocrat, model, actress and artist. She is considered the "first German supermodel.“ Early life and ances ...
,
Monica Bellucci Monica Anna Maria Bellucci (; born 30 September 1964) is an Italian actress and model who began her career as a fashion model before working in Italian, American, and French films. She has an eclectic filmography in a range of genres and langua ...
and
Audrey Hepburn Audrey Kathleen Hepburn ( Ruston; 4 May 1929 – 20 January 1993) was a British actress. Recognised as a film and fashion icon, she was ranked by the American Film Institute as the third-greatest female screen legend from the Classical Holly ...
. Barbieri has worked for fashion designers
Armani Giorgio Armani S.p.A. (), commonly known as Armani, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in Milan by Giorgio Armani which designs, manufactures, distributes and retails haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, accessories, and ...
,
Versace Gianni Versace S.r.l. (), usually referred to as Versace ( ), is an Italian luxury elite fashion company founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as '' haute couture'' under it ...
and
Ferré Ferré is a surname. Notable people with the surname include: In arts and entertainment * Boulou Ferré (born 1951), French virtuoso jazz musician * Géant Ferré ("Iron Giant"), ring name of French-American wrestler André the Giant, André R ...
, and
Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana (), also known by initials D&G, is an Italian Luxury goods, luxury fashion house founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The house specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, accessories, ...
, Pomellato, and
Giuseppe Zanotti Giuseppe Zanotti is an Italian luxury footwear and fashion designer known for his sculptural, jeweled heels, luxury sneakers, handbags, jewelry, and leather ready-to-wear. His wholly owned company, Vicini S.p.A., manufactures his eponymous label, ...
. In the 1990s Barbieri became a travel photographer. An exhibition of Barbieri's work was curated by the English fashion photographer
David Bailey David Royston Bailey (born 2 January 1938) is an English photographer and director, most widely known for his fashion photography and portraiture, and role in shaping the image of the Swinging Sixties. Bailey has also directed several televisio ...
, shown at the
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (abbreviated V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and named after Queen ...
in London and the Kunstforum in Vienna. Barbieri photographed in analog and did not retouch his pictures. One of his early cameras was a Reflex Voigtländer 35mm. In 1968 he was awarded the Biancamano Prize as Best Italian Photographer and was named one of the 14 best international fashion photographers by the German magazine ''
Stern The stern is the back or aft-most part of a ship or boat, technically defined as the area built up over the sternpost, extending upwards from the counter rail to the taffrail. The stern lies opposite the bow, the foremost part of a ship. O ...
'' in 1978. Barbieri died in Milan on 17 December 2024, at the age of 89.Celebrated photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri dies in Milan
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Books

*''Fiori della mia vita'', Silvana (2016) *''Flowers'', Silvana (2016) *''Skin'', Silvana (2015) *''Dark Memories'', Skira (2013) *''Gian Paolo Barbieri'', Federico Motta (2007) *''Catalogo Mostra Palazzo Reale'' (2007) *''Body Haiku'', Dolci Japan gallery (2007) *''Sud'', Pomellato (2006) *''Exotic Nudes'', Taschen (2003) *''Innatural'', Contrasto (2001) *''A History of Fashion'', Photology (2001) *''Equator'', Taschen (1999) *''Tahiti Tattoos No. 2'', Taschen (1998) *''Madagascar'', Taschen (1997) *''Pappa e Ciccia'', Pappa & Ciccia Editori (1991) *''The maps of desire'', Pomellato (1989) *''Tahiti Tattoos No. 1'', Fabbri (1989) *''Barbieri'', Fabbri (1988) *''Venti Anni di Vogue Italia 1964–1984'', Edizioni Condé Nast (1984) *''Silent Portraits'', Massimo Baldini (1984) *''I grandi fotografi'', gruppo editoriale Fabbri (1982) *''Artificial'', FotoSelex (1982)


Publications

* '' Novità'' ** 1963: July, November ** 1964: February, July, September, October, November ** 1965: September * ''
Vogue Italia ''Vogue Italia'' is the Italian edition of '' Vogue'' magazine owned by Condé Nast International. In publication since 1964, it has been called the top fashion magazine in the world. The publication is currently edited by Francesca Ragazzi and ...
'' ** 1965: November ( Isa Stoppi), December (Mirella Petteni) ** 1966: January, February, November, December ** 1967: November, December ** 1968: January, February, April, May, June, September, October ** 1969: January, February, March, July ** 1971: April ** 1972: May, October, December ** 1973: June, September, October, December ** 1974: March, June, September, November ** 1975: March, April, June, September, October, November, December ** 1976: September, October, December ** 1977: March, April, May, November, December ** 1978: April, May, June, November, December ** 1979: January, March, July, December ** 1980: February, March, May, June, October, December ** 1981: February, May, September, October, December ** 1982: June, September ** 1983: January ** 1985: March ** 2013: March * ''Linea Italiana'' ** 1966: Spring-Summer ** 1967: Autumn-Winter ** 1968: Spring-Summer * ''Vogue Paris'' ** 1974 m: June * ''Vogue Giappone'' ** 2017: January * '' Progresso Fotografico'' ** 1981: January * '' Photo Italia'' ** 1989: number 165 ** 1990: number 180 ** 2001: number 11 * ''
IO Donna ''IO Donna'' () is a weekly women's magazine and Saturday supplement of the Italian daily newspaper ''Corriere della Sera''. The magazine is the first supplement of a daily which focuses on women readers. It has been in circulation since 1996 and ...
'' ** 1997: March, April, July ** 1998: July, November ** 1999: December * '' GQ'' ** 2000: July, September, October, November ** 2001: February, March, August, September, October, November ** 2002: June, July ** 2003: January, March, May, November ** 2004: February, June ** 2005: April, May, August, November ** 2006: February, May ** 2014: July * ''GQ Russia'' ** 2011: March * '' Vanity Fair'' ** 2004: March, May ** 2005: May, October ** 2006: July, November ** 2008: August, September ** 2009: July * '' Glamour'' ** 2015: October


References


External links


Official website

London: ‘Follow your own style’
on ''
British Journal of Photography The ''British Journal of Photography'' (BJP) is a magazine about photography, published by 1854 Media. It includes in-depth articles, profiles of photographers, analyses, and technological reviews. History The magazine was established in Liverpoo ...
''
Biography of Gian Paolo Barbieri
{{DEFAULTSORT:Barbieri, Gian Paolo 1935 births 2024 deaths Photographers from Milan Italian fashion photographers Travel photographers Vogue (magazine) people