The term "gauge" is used in knitting to describe the fineness size of

knitting Knitting is a method for production of textile Knitted fabric, fabrics by interlacing yarn loops with loops of the same or other yarns. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done Hand knitting, by hand or Knitting machi ...

machines. It is used in both

hand knitting Hand knitting is a form of knitting, in which the knitted fabric is produced by hand using needles. Types Flat knitting Flat knitting uses two straight needles to make generally two-dimensional (flat) pieces. Flat knitting is usually used to ...

and machine knitting. The phrase in both instances refers to the number of stitches per inch rather than the size of the finished article of clothing. The gauge is calculated by counting the stitches (for hand knitting) or needles (on a knitting machine bed) across a number of inches, then dividing by the sample's width in inches.

Gauge on knitting machines

There are two types of classification of Knitting Gauges or Unit of Measure: *A – Used for Cotton Fully fashion flat machines (Bentley – Monk, Textima, Sheller, etc.) where "Gauge" is measured in 1.5 inches (2.54 cm). The machine's gauge is expressed by the number of needles needed to achieve that gauge. *B – Used for hand, mechanical, or modern Electronic Flat Machines (Stoll, Shima, Protti, etc.), where gauge is measured in 1-inch (2.5 cm) increments. The machine's gauge is again measured by the number of needles required to achieve that number.

Factors that affect knitting gauge

The gauge of a knitted fabric depends on the pattern of stitches in the fabric, the kind of

yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. '' Thread'' is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern ...

, the size of

knitting needle A knitting needle or knitting pin is a tool in hand-knitting to produce knitted fabrics. They generally have a long shaft and taper at their end, but they are not nearly as sharp as sewing needles. Their purpose is two-fold. The long shaft '' ...

s, and the ''tension'' of the individual knitter (i.e., how much yarn they allow between stitches). * For example, ribbing and cable patterns tend to "pull in", giving more stitches over an identical width than stockinette, garter, or seed stitch. Even the same stitch produced in two different ways may produce a different gauge. *

Yarn weight Yarn weight refers to the thickness of yarn used by knitters, weavers, crocheters and other fiber artists. Importance Changing yarn weight or needle size can have a significant impact on the finished project, so standardized systems have been ...

is a factor; thicker

s with less loft overall produce larger stitches than thinner yarns (reducing the number of stitches per width and length). * Larger knitting needles also produce larger stitches, giving fewer stitches and rows per inch. Changing needle size is the best way to control one's own gauge for a given pattern and yarn. * Finally, the knitter's tension, or how tightly one knits, can affect the gauge significantly. The gauge can even vary within a single

garment Clothing (also known as clothes, garments, dress, apparel, or attire) is any item worn on a human human body, body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin s ...

, typically with beginning knitters; as knitters become more familiar with a stitch pattern, they become more relaxed and make the stitch differently, producing a different gauge. Sometimes the gauge is deliberately altered within a garment, usually by changing needle size; for example, smaller stitches are often made at the collar, sleeve cuffs,

hemline The hemline is the line formed by the lower edge of a garment, such as a skirt, dress or coat, measured from the floor. The hemline is perhaps the most variable style line in fashion, changing shape and ranging in height from hip-high to fl ...

ribbing, or pocket edges.

Knitting gauge in patterns

To produce a knitted garment of given dimensions, whether from one's own

design A design is the concept or proposal for an object, process, or system. The word ''design'' refers to something that is or has been intentionally created by a thinking agent, and is sometimes used to refer to the inherent nature of something ...

or from a published

pattern A pattern is a regularity in the world, in human-made design, or in abstract ideas. As such, the elements of a pattern repeat in a predictable manner. A geometric pattern is a kind of pattern formed of geometric shapes and typically repeated l ...

, the gauge should match as closely as possible; significant differences in gauge will lead to a deformed garment. Patterns for

projects almost always include a suggested gauge for the project. Generally, the gauge should match to better than 5%, corresponding to 1" of ease in a 20" width. Similar concerns apply to the number of ''rows per inch''. The gauge can be adjusted by changing needle size, without changing the pattern, stitch, yarn, or habits of the knitter. Larger needles produce a smaller gauge (fewer stitches per inch) and smaller needles produce a larger gauge (more stitches per inch). If necessary, further adjustments can be made by subtly altering the pattern dimensions, e.g., shortening a vertically aligned pattern. Ribbing can also be used to "draw in" the fabric to the proper gauge.

Measuring knitting gauge

To check one's gauge before starting a project, a sample of knitting (a swatch) is made, ideally in the stitch pattern used in the garment. The edges of the swatch can impact gauge readings, so it's recommended that the swatch be a minimum of 4" square, but preferably 6–8" square for more accurate results. Dividing the number of stitches used by the actual size of the sample gives the stitch gauge of that sample. Similarly, the row gauge is calculated by dividing the number of rows knitted by the length of the sample. Making a swatch also helps familiarize the knitter with the stitch pattern and yarn, which will lead to a more uniform gauge in the final garment.

References

* June Hemmons Hiatt (1988) ''The Principles of Knitting'', Simon and Schuster, pp. 415–432.

External links

knitty.com article on gauge

Measuring Gauge

Needle Conversion Chart
Shows conversion between current and past US and European knitting needle sizes.
Yarn Weight and Gauge Chart
Recommended needle and crochet hook sizes used to achieve gauge with various yarns. {{knitting Knitting methods for shaping