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Gareth Pugh (born 31 August 1981) is an English fashion designer"Gareth Pugh: Fashion Designer."
Showstudio.com. Retrieved 9 April 2007.
West, Daniel
"Gareth Pugh."
Icon Magazine (December 2006). Retrieved 9 April 2007.
based in London. He is known for his unconventional use of volume and form when designing outfits, and his work is described as performance art. He achieved prominence in the Autumn 2005 Kashpoint's Alternative Fashion Week group show, and he made his solo premiere in London's Fall 2006 fashion week. Due to his focus on experimental fashion, Pugh has had limited success selling wearable clothes. Instead, his projects are funded through
patronage Patronage is the support, encouragement, privilege, or financial aid that an organization or individual bestows on another. In the history of art, arts patronage refers to the support that kings, popes, and the wealthy have provided to artists su ...
by Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy. His designs have been sported by notable performers, including
Kylie Minogue Kylie Ann Minogue (; born 28 May 1968) is an Australian singer, songwriter and actress. She is the highest-selling female Australian artist of all time, having sold over 80 million records worldwide. She has been recognised for reinve ...
,
Beyoncé Beyoncé Giselle Knowles-Carter ( ; born September 4, 1981) is an American singer, songwriter, and actress. Beyoncé's boundary-pushing artistry and vocals have made her the most influential female musician of the 21st century, according to ...
, and Lady Gaga.


Career

At 14, Pugh began working as a costume designer for the
National Youth Theatre The National Youth Theatre of Great Britain (NYT) is a youth theatre and registered charity in London. Its aim is to develop and nurture young people through creative arts and theatrical productions. Founded in 1956 as the world's first youth th ...
. He started his fashion education at
City of Sunderland College Sunderland College, officially City of Sunderland College, is a further education and higher education college based in Sunderland, North East England. The enrolment includes around 6,300 part-time learners and approximately 4,800 full-time stu ...
and finished his degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins in 2003. He interned with Rick Owens in Paris. His final collection at St. Martins, which used balloons to accentuate models' joints and limbs (a technique that would become one of his trademarks), attracted the attention of the senior fashion editor of '' Dazed & Confused'' magazine, who placed one of his designs on the magazine's cover shortly thereafter. Pugh was selected to participate in British reality show '' The Fashion House'' two months after his graduation, which he would later call "horrible" and his "only other option o being onthe dole." The rise of !WOWOW!, a feature in ''Dazed & Confused'', and a debut show at London club Kashpoint's Alternative Fashion Week brought Pugh to the attention of Fashion East "London's breeding ground for cutting-edge new talent," leading them to invite Pugh to participate in its Autumn 2005 group show. Pugh had only four weeks, with no studio, no assistants, and little money, to create the collection. His collection ended up a critical success and attracted significant attention to his designs. Pugh's solo premiere was in London's Fall 2006 fashion week; he has since showed his Spring 2007 and Autumn 2007 collections there.Mower, Sarah. (19 September 2006). Retrieved 9 April 2007.Mower, Sarah. (15 February 2006). Retrieved 9 April 2007.Mower, Sarah. (15 February 2007). Retrieved 9 April 2007. Pugh's shows have continued to draw critical praise. British '' Vogue'', for instance, called his Spring 2007 collection "an incredible, unmissable show" and said that "his genius is undeniable."Jones, Dolly
"Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2007."
''Vogue''.uk (19 September 2006). Retrieved 9 April 2007.
Anna Wintour is a notable supporter of Pugh's designs.
Kylie Minogue Kylie Ann Minogue (; born 28 May 1968) is an Australian singer, songwriter and actress. She is the highest-selling female Australian artist of all time, having sold over 80 million records worldwide. She has been recognised for reinve ...
has used many of Pugh's designs over the recent years, most famously in her
Showgirl - The Greatest Hits Tour Showgirl: The Greatest Hits Tour was the eighth concert tour by Australian singer Kylie Minogue. It was launched in support of her second major greatest hits compilation, ''Ultimate Kylie'' (2004) and visited Europe. It began on 19 March 2005 i ...
and
Showgirl - The Homecoming Tour Showgirl: The Greatest Hits Tour was the eighth concert tour by Australian singer Kylie Minogue. It was launched in support of her second major greatest hits compilation, ''Ultimate Kylie'' (2004) and visited Europe. It began on 19 March 2005 i ...
.
Róisín Murphy Róisín Marie Murphy ( , ; born 5 July 1973) is an Irish singer, songwriter, and record producer. She first became known in the 1990s as one half of the pop duo Moloko alongside English musician Mark Brydon. After the breakup of Moloko, she em ...
recently appeared flamboyantly sporting one of Pugh's distinctive outfits in the videoclip promoting her 2007 album '' Overpowered'', and on the cover of her single " Let Me Know", and on other occasions. Minogue has been seen wearing the same dress in her 2008 video for her single " In My Arms".
Beyoncé Beyoncé Giselle Knowles-Carter ( ; born September 4, 1981) is an American singer, songwriter, and actress. Beyoncé's boundary-pushing artistry and vocals have made her the most influential female musician of the 21st century, according to ...
wore Pugh at the MTV Europe Awards in 2008, and for her " Diva" video. Singer Lady Gaga wore a jacket designed by Pugh at the Wango Tango concert in 2009, another piece on '' X Factor'' and most recently to her ARTPOP premier at ArtRave. Ashlee Simpson wore a leather and clear plastic striped Gareth Pugh dress in her video "Outta My Head." British pop music duo
Pet Shop Boys The Pet Shop Boys are an English synth-pop duo formed in London in 1981. Consisting of primary vocalist Neil Tennant and keyboardist Chris Lowe, they have sold more than 50 million records worldwide, and were listed as the most successful duo i ...
wore Gareth Pugh outfits at their iconic performance at the
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, with a reinterpreted design inspired from their post-modern look during their 1993 ''
Very Very may refer to: * English's prevailing intensifier Businesses * The Very Group, a British retail/consumer finance corporation ** Very (online retailer), their main e-commerce brand * VERY TV, a Thai television channel Places * Véry, a co ...
'' era. Pugh was awarded the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award in 2008. In 2010, Gareth Pugh has opened his first
boutique A boutique () is a small shop that deals in fashionable clothing or accessories. The word is French for "shop", which derives ultimately from the Ancient Greek ἀποθήκη (''apothēkē'') "storehouse". The term ''boutique'' and also ''d ...
in Hong Kong. Pugh was mentioned in a song by Kazaky, a Ukrainian dance music group. In 2014, the fashion journalist and stylist Katie Grand was invited by the
Fashion Museum, Bath The Fashion Museum (known before 2007 as the Museum of Costume) is housed in the Assembly Rooms in Bath, Somerset, England. The collection was started by Doris Langley Moore, who gave her collection of costumes to the city of Bath in 1963. The ...
, to select an outfit to represent that year in their Dress of the Year collection. She chose one of Gareth Pugh's ensembles, a wrapped outfit in calico and plastic sheeting.


Aesthetic

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describes Pugh as the "latest addition to a long tradition of fashion-as- performance-art that stretches back through Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Vivienne Westwood to the eighties club culture of Leigh Bowery." (Pugh, however, dismisses frequent Bowery comparisons as "lazy journalism.") Klaus Nomi has also been suggested as an influence on Pugh. Pugh's collections are autobiographical rather than referential, and draw inspiration from Britain's extreme club scene. Pugh's trademark is his experimentation with form and volume. He often uses "nonsensically shaped, wearable sculptures" to "distort[] the human body almost beyond recognition." Elements in his designs include Polyvinyl chloride, PVC inflated into voluminous coats, black and white patchwork squares, Perspex discs linked like chain mail, and shiny latex masks and leggings;"Gareth Pugh."
Londonfashionweek.co.uk. Retrieved 9 April 2007.
he has used materials including
mink Mink are dark-colored, semiaquatic, carnivorous mammals of the genera ''Neogale'' and '' Mustela'' and part of the family Mustelidae, which also includes weasels, otters, and ferrets. There are two extant species referred to as "mink": the A ...
,
parachute A parachute is a device used to slow the motion of an object through an atmosphere by creating drag or, in a ram-air parachute, aerodynamic lift. A major application is to support people, for recreation or as a safety device for aviators, who ...
silk, foam
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, afro-weave synthetic and human hair, and
electrically charged Electric charge is the physical property of matter that causes charged matter to experience a force when placed in an electromagnetic field. Electric charge can be ''positive'' or ''negative'' (commonly carried by protons and electrons respe ...
plastic in his clothing. Pugh describes his designs as being "about the struggle between lightness and darkness."


Commercial potential

Though he has received significant acclaim in contemporary fashion circles, Pugh claimed in March 2007 that he had yet to sell a single dress and that he struggled to make ends meet.Roe, Louise
"Hard Times."
''Vogue''.uk (19 March 2007). Retrieved 9 April 2007.
(Until his Spring 2007 collection, his clothes were solely catwalk experiments and simply unavailable to purchase.) While constructing his autumn 2005 debut collection, shown in the Fashion East group show, he was
squatting Squatting is the action of occupying an abandoned or unoccupied area of land or a building, usually residential, that the squatter does not own, rent or otherwise have lawful permission to use. The United Nations estimated in 2003 that there ...
in a converted warehouse.Crompton, Erica
"Supernova: Hint seeks out rising stars of design."
Hint Magazine (Aug. 2005). Retrieved 9 April 2007.
(A
court order A court order is an official proclamation by a judge (or panel of judges) that defines the legal relationships between the parties to a hearing, a trial, an appeal or other court proceedings. Such ruling requires or authorizes the carrying out o ...
ultimately forced him to leave the building.) He says his current studio is unheated and has only two electrical outlets. It remains to be seen whether Pugh can be a commercial success as well as a critical one, but he is slowly shifting to more wearable clothing in his runway showsJones, Dolly
"Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2007."
''Vogue''.uk (15 February 2007). Retrieved 9 April 2007.
and he has partnered with Rick Owens and Michéle Lamy, who hold a 49% interest in Gareth Pugh's firm. The husband and wife team now fund all of Pugh's collection development, production and marketing activities.


References


External links

* * *
Biographical films, performance films, catwalk shows
* {{DEFAULTSORT:Pugh, Gareth 1981 births Living people English fashion designers National Youth Theatre members Alumni of Central Saint Martins High fashion brands