Ganjang-gejang
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''Gejang'' () or ''gejeot'' () is a variety of ''
jeotgal ''Jeotgal'' () or ''jeot'' (), translated as salted seafood, is a category of salted preserved dishes made with seafood such as shrimps, oysters, clams, fish, and roe. Depending on the ingredients, ''jeotgal'' can range from flabby or solid pi ...
,'' or salted fermented seafood in
Korean cuisine Korean cuisine is the set of foods and culinary styles which are associated with Korean culture. This cuisine has evolved through centuries of social and political change. Originating from ancient Prehistoric Korea, agricultural and nomad ...
, which is made by
marinating Marinating is the process of soaking foods in a seasoned, often acidic, liquid before cooking. This sauce, called the marinade, can be either acidic (made with ingredients such as vinegar, lemon juice, or wine), or enzymatic (made with ingredien ...
fresh raw
crabs Crabs are decapod crustaceans of the infraorder Brachyura (meaning "short tailed" in Greek), which typically have a very short projecting tail-like abdomen, usually hidden entirely under the thorax. Their exoskeleton is often thickened and ha ...
in either ''
ganjang Soy sauce (sometimes called soya sauce in British English) is a liquid condiment of Chinese origin, traditionally made from a fermented paste of soybeans, roasted grain, brine, and ''Aspergillus oryzae'' or '' Aspergillus sojae'' molds. It is ...
'' (
soy sauce Soy sauce (sometimes called soya sauce in British English) is a liquid condiment of China, Chinese origin, traditionally made from a fermentation (food), fermented paste of soybeans, roasted cereal, grain, brine, and ''Aspergillus oryzae'' or ''A ...
) or a
chili pepper Chili peppers, also spelled chile or chilli ( ), are varieties of fruit#Berries, berry-fruit plants from the genus ''Capsicum'', which are members of the nightshade family Solanaceae, cultivated for their pungency. They are used as a spice to ...
powder based sauce. The term consists of two words; ''ge'', meaning "a crab", and ''jang'' which means "condiment" in Korean. The crabs selected for the Gejang dish are mainly female crabs with eggs. While ''gejang'' was originally used to refer to crabs marinated in soy sauce, it is now also called ''ganjang-gejang'' () to differentiate it from ''
yangnyeom-gejang ''Gejang'' () or ''gejeot'' () is a variety of ''jeotgal,'' or salted fermented seafood in Korean cuisine, which is made by marinating fresh raw Crab meat, crabs in either ''ganjang'' (Soy sauce#Korean, soy sauce) or a chili pepper powder based s ...
'' (). The latter is a relatively new dish that emerged alongside the boom in South Korea's restaurant industry. Its origins appear to come from the
Chungcheong Chungcheong Province (; ) was one of the eight provinces of Korea during the Joseon Dynasty. Chungcheong was located in the southwest of Korea. The provincial capital was located at Gongju, which had been the capital of the kingdom of Baekje ...
and
Jeolla Jeolla Province (, ) was one of the historical Eight Provinces of Korea during the Kingdom of Joseon in southwestern Korea. It consisted of the modern South Korean provinces of North Jeolla, South Jeolla and Gwangju Metropolitan City as wel ...
provinces, which both have long-standing traditions of mixing raw fish or dried
pollock Pollock or pollack (pronounced ) is the common name used for either of the two species of North Atlantic ocean, marine fish in the genus ''Pollachius''. ''Pollachius pollachius'' is referred to as "pollock" in North America, Ireland and the Unit ...
with a spicy red pepper flake or
gochujang ''Gochujang'' or red chili paste * is a savory, sweet, and spicy fermented condiment popular in Korean cooking. It is made from '' gochugaru'' (red chili powder), glutinous rice, '' meju'' (fermented soybean) powder, ''yeotgireum'' (barley m ...
sauce. People later began preparing crab in a similar fashion, resulting in what is known today as yangnyeom-gejang. "Yangnyeom" means "seasoning" or "seasoned" in Korean, and refers to the spicy sauce of the dish that is made with chili pepper powder. The Gyeongsang, Jeolla, and Jeju regions are famous for their own types of ''gejang''. It is a representative specialty of
Yeosu Yeosu, formerly romanized as Yosu, is a coastal city located on the southern shore of South Korea. With a population of 268,823, Yeosu is the second largest city in South Jeolla Province. In 1998, the Old Yeosu City, Yeocheon City and Yeocheon C ...
in
South Jeolla Province South Jeolla Province (), formerly South Chŏlla Province, also known as Jeonnam (), is a province in the Honam, Honam region, South Korea, and the Provinces of Korea, southernmost province in mainland Korea. South Jeolla borders the provinces of ...
, and a traditional Jeolla cuisine dish. According to Korean traditional medicine, crabs possess a 'cold nature' that can cool one's
body temperature Thermoregulation is the ability of an organism to keep its body temperature within certain boundaries, even when the surrounding temperature is very different. A thermoconforming organism, by contrast, simply adopts the surrounding temperature ...
, and so ''gejang'' is believed to be good for driving away the spring fever. According to a poll of tourists to Korea, gejang is difficult to eat because the dish is too spicy and salty.


Historical records

Historical records on ''gejang'' can be found in books such as '' Sallim gyeongje'' (lit. "Farm Management"), '' Gyuhap chongseo'' (lit. "Women's Encyclopedia"), ''Jubangmun'' (), '' Siui jeonseo'' (lit. "Complete Collection of Corrections and Discussions"), and others written during the
Joseon Joseon ( ; ; also romanized as ''Chosun''), officially Great Joseon (), was a dynastic kingdom of Korea that existed for 505 years. It was founded by Taejo of Joseon in July 1392 and replaced by the Korean Empire in October 1897. The kingdom w ...
period (1392–1910). As a traditional Korean dish, is estimated to have been consumed on the Korean Peninsula since the 1600s. According to ''Sallim gyeongje'' which is written around the end of the 17th century, making ''gejang'' is referred to as ''"johaebeop"'' (), which means "a way of marinating crabs in sediments of liquor". With this method, crabs are marinated in a mixture of ''jaegang'' (재강, sediments of liquor), salt, and an alcoholic beverage. Generally, ''gejang'' spoils if preserved for a long time; however, the ''gejang'' made using ''johaebeop'' can be eaten until the next spring. Additionally, the book records various ways of making gejang such as ''juhaebeop'' (酒蟹法, made with alcoholic beverage), ''chojang haebeop'' (醋醬蟹法, made with soy sauce and vinegar), and ''yeomtang haebeop'' (鹽湯蟹法, made with boiled salted water). It also records methods of crab rearing which are called ''Yukseon chibeop'' (肉膳治法). These records verify that the consumption of ''gejang'' in the Korean diet appeared as early as the 17th century. Historical records such as the "Gyuhap Chongseo," "Jubangmun," and "Shinui Jeonseo" mention gejang. Crabs were easily accessible by simply stepping into the water, and even when food was scarce, households could make soy sauce, making gejang a common dish. At that time, it was referred to as salted crab. The term "ganjang gejang" (soy sauce marinated crab) became popular in South Korea south of the 38th parallel after yangnyeom gejang (spicy marinated crab) gained popularity in the 1980s. There are two main types of gejang that became popular in South Korea from the 1990s, differentiated by their marinades: the soy sauce-based ganjang gejang () and the spicy yangnyeom gejang () made with a chili seasoning. Typically, these dishes are eaten raw without heating. They are often referred to as "rice thieves" () because they pair so well with rice. The most delicious blue crabs are considered to be those caught from December to June for females, and from July to October for males, although the timing can vary by species. Outside these periods, rapidly frozen crabs may be used. Gejang is served in seafood and barbecue restaurants across South Korea, and there are also specialized gejang restaurants. It is sold in department store delis and markets as well. According to the South Korean Ministry of Unification's "Specialist Written Unification Food Recipe" on December 20, 2021, the Korean-style ganjang gejang popular in Japan does not exist in North Korea. Instead, North Korean gejang is characterized by the use of "dry soy sauce." This unique North Korean ingredient is a solid form of soy sauce, which is not yet used in South Korean cuisine. North Korean gejang is not cooked, so it is best to use richly flavored brewed soy sauce to enhance its taste and aroma. Yangnyeom gejang is a seasoned crab dish, and as people began to refer to it as such, the existing gejang became known as ganjang gejang. The commercialization of ganjang gejang began when several Korean celebrities started businesses under their names. Notably, the entertainer
Kim Soo-mi Kim Soo-mi (; born Kim Young-ok (); October 24, 1949 – October 25, 2024) was a South Korean actress who had a prolific career in film and television. Career She debuted in a talent contest in 1970, then shot to fame in ''Country Diaries''. ...
was involved. As Korean celebrities promoted ganjang gejang, interest in the dish grew, leading to the establishment of ganjang gejang restaurants and increased consumption. In the 21st century, ganjang gejang has gained global popularity. It is particularly well-known in
Japan Japan is an island country in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean off the northeast coast of the Asia, Asian mainland, it is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan and extends from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea ...
, where it is highly recognized. The Japanese interest in ganjang gejang stems from the similarities in food culture, such as the use of soy sauce, rice, and seafood. Additionally, it was an unfamiliar type of food in Japan, and after the "
Winter Sonata ''Winter Sonata'' () is a 2002 South Korean television drama series, starring Bae Yong-joon and Choi Ji-woo. It is the second part of the season-themed tetralogy '' Endless Love'' drama series directed by Yoon Seok-ho. Filming primarily took ...
" boom, Japanese tourists visiting Korea often included ganjang gejang in their dining experiences. Consequently, some ganjang gejang restaurants in Seoul specifically target Japanese customers and offer services in Japanese. Since the 21st century, ganjang gejang has also become known in the
United States The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 U.S. state, states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 ...
and Western Europe, and it is now a common dish for visitors to Korea to try.


Crabs and harvest

G''ejang'' was originally made with
freshwater crab Around 1,300 species of freshwater crabs are distributed throughout the tropics and subtropics, divided among eight family (biology), families. They show direct development and maternal care of a small number of offspring, in contrast to marine c ...
s which have become scarce. As a result, ''gejang'' is now commonly made with ''kkotge'' ( horse crab), caught in the
Yellow Sea The Yellow Sea, also known as the North Sea, is a marginal sea of the Western Pacific Ocean located between mainland China and the Korean Peninsula, and can be considered the northwestern part of the East China Sea. Names It is one of four ...
(West Sea) on the west side of the
Korean peninsula Korea is a peninsular region in East Asia consisting of the Korean Peninsula, Jeju Island, and smaller islands. Since the end of World War II in 1945, it has been politically divided at or near the 38th parallel between North Korea (Dem ...
. Among the most popular ''gejang'' made with freshwater crabs are, ''chamgejang'' of the
North Gyeongsang Province North Gyeongsang Province (, ) is a province in eastern South Korea, and with an area of , it is the largest province in the Korean peninsula. The province was formed in 1896 from the northern half of the former Gyeongsang province, and remaine ...
, which can be preserved and eaten after a year, and ''beotteok gejang'', which can be eaten immediately after preparation.


Preparation

To prepare ''ganjang-gejang'', crabs are first thoroughly cleaned using a brush while submerged in a bowl of water. They are then rinsed to remove moisture. Next, the crabs are put in a '' hangari'' (earthenware crock) and are salted for about six hours. To prepare the sauce, a mixture of ''ganjang'' is boiled briefly along with sesame oil, sugar, finely sliced
scallions Scallions (also known as green onions and spring onions) are edible vegetables of various species in the genus ''Allium''. Scallions generally have a milder taste than most onions. Their close relatives include garlic, shallots, leeks, chive ...
, minced garlic, ginger, and finely shredded fresh red
chili pepper Chili peppers, also spelled chile or chilli ( ), are varieties of fruit#Berries, berry-fruit plants from the genus ''Capsicum'', which are members of the nightshade family Solanaceae, cultivated for their pungency. They are used as a spice to ...
. Once the salted crabs are removed from the ''hangari'' and placed in a bowl, the hot sauce is poured onto the crabs. An hour later, the ''ganjang'' is removed from the bowl and reheated to reach its boiling point. It is again poured over the crabs. This procedure is repeated for a third and fourth time. The dish can be eaten once the sauce is chilled. If using boiled ''ganjang'' after it has been chilled, the ''gejang'' can be eaten two weeks after preparation, and can be preserved for even longer periods. A variation involves adding minced beef while the sauce is poured over the crabs, endowing the ''gejang'' with more spices. In present times, some people may choose to add lemon, chili pepper, or traditional medicine when making ''gejang'' to remove its fishy smell and increase its rich flavor.Han Nam-hui (한남희), (Feb. 17, 2006) (in Korean
바람난 바다 봄을 부르다. (The Windy Sea calls in Spring)
Chungcheong Today
As for ''yangnyeom gejang'', the dish is made with raw crabs seasoned with a sweet and spicy sauce of chili pepper powder, ground
Korean pear ''Pyrus pyrifolia'' is a species of pear tree native to southern China and northern Indochina that has been introduced to Korea, Japan and other parts of the world. The tree's edible fruit is known by many names, including Asian pear, Persian pea ...
, onions, ginger, garlic, whole sesame seeds, and
sesame oil Sesame oil is an edible vegetable oil derived from sesame seeds. The oil is one of the earliest-known crop-based oils. Worldwide mass modern production is limited due to the inefficient manual harvesting process required to extract the oil. ...
. The ''gejang'' can be eaten half a day after it is prepared. It is also best to consume the dish within two or three days to keep its sweet, spicy, and sour taste intact. If the crabs are first marinated in a boiled and then chilled mixture of ''eakjeok'' (액젓, filtered ''
jeotgal ''Jeotgal'' () or ''jeot'' (), translated as salted seafood, is a category of salted preserved dishes made with seafood such as shrimps, oysters, clams, fish, and roe. Depending on the ingredients, ''jeotgal'' can range from flabby or solid pi ...
'') and soy sauce before adding in the spicy sauce, the ''yangnyeom gejang'' can be well marinated with the latter sauce, and be preserved longer.


Types

Types are divided by crab species, region, and cooking method. Among varieties, ''beoltteok gejang'' () is a local specialty of the
Jeolla Province Jeolla Province (, ) was one of the historical Eight Provinces of Korea during the Kingdom of Joseon in southwestern Korea. It consisted of the modern South Korean provinces of North Jeolla, South Jeolla and Gwangju Metropolitan City as well as J ...
and is made with live ''
Charybdis Charybdis (; , ; , ) is a sea monster in Greek mythology. Charybdis, along with the sea monster Scylla, appears as a challenge to epic characters such as Odysseus, Jason, and Aeneas. Scholarship locates her in the Strait of Messina. The idiom " ...
'', which are called either ''beoltteokge'' () or ''minkkotge'' () in Korean. The crab has a hard
carapace A carapace is a dorsal (upper) section of the exoskeleton or shell in a number of animal groups, including arthropods, such as crustaceans and arachnids, as well as vertebrates, such as turtles and tortoises. In turtles and tortoises, the unde ...
with a reddish-brown color and is found in the seawater of Korea, according to ''Jasaneobo'' (자산어보 "Fishes of the Huksan Island"), the first Korean
fisheries science Fisheries science is the academic discipline of managing and understanding fisheries. It is a multidisciplinary science, which draws on the disciplines of limnology, oceanography, freshwater biology, marine biology, meteorology, conservation, ...
book written by scholar Jeong Yak-jeon () in 1814. To make the ''gejang'', the crabs are cut into several pieces or used whole if they are not large. One to two days after the ''beoltteokge'' has been marinated in a ''ganjang''-based sauce, one can enjoy the ''gejang'' which has a fresh and sweet taste. However, ''beoltteok gejang'' can not be preserved for a long time, so it is said that the name reflects the fact; ''beotteok'' means "quickly" or "immediately" in Korean. ''Kkotgejang'' () is made with ''kkotge'' ( horse crab) which is the most consumed crab in South Korea. It is also a local specialty of the
Jeolla Province Jeolla Province (, ) was one of the historical Eight Provinces of Korea during the Kingdom of Joseon in southwestern Korea. It consisted of the modern South Korean provinces of North Jeolla, South Jeolla and Gwangju Metropolitan City as well as J ...
and is known for its umami taste. After being cleaned, the live crabs are chopped into several pieces and a mixture of ''ganjang,'' containing sliced scallions, garlic, ginger, chili pepper powder, sesame seeds, and salt is poured over them. It can be eaten one day after preparation. Another local specialty of the Jeolla Province is ''konggejeot'' () which is indigenous to
Gangjin County Gangjin County () is a Administrative divisions of South Korea, county in South Jeolla Province, South Korea. Gangjin county proper was established in 1895. The county office is located in Gangjin-eup. The Gangjin Kiln Sites are a noted area f ...
. The ''gejang'' is made by grinding crabs as small as a bean (''kong'' in Korean) with
millstone Millstones or mill stones are stones used in gristmills, used for triturating, crushing or, more specifically, grinding wheat or other grains. They are sometimes referred to as grindstones or grinding stones. Millstones come in pairs: a s ...
s. The thick ground paste is mixed with salt and gochujang. In
Jeju Island Jeju Island (Jeju language, Jeju/) is South Korea's largest island, covering an area of , which is 1.83% of the total area of the country. Alongside outlying islands, it is part of Jeju Province and makes up the majority of the province. The i ...
, ''gejang'' is called ''gingijeot'' () and is made on the 15th day, 3rd month of the
Korean calendar Throughout its many years of history, various calendar systems have been used in Korea. Many of them were adopted from the Lunar calendar, lunar Chinese calendar system, with modifications occasionally made to accommodate Korea's geographic locat ...
(
lunisolar A lunisolar calendar is a calendar in many cultures, that combines monthly lunar cycles with the solar year. As with all calendars which divide the year into months, there is an additional requirement that the year have a whole number of months ...
) at low tide. Traditionally, ''gingijeot'' is said to be a good cure for many illnesses in the region. ''Chamgejang'' () is a local specialty of the
Gyeonggi Province Gyeonggi Province (, ) is the most populous province in South Korea. Seoul, the nation's largest city and capital, is in the heart of the area but has been separately administered as a provincial-level ''special city'' since 1946. Incheon, ...
. It is made with ''chamge'' (
Chinese mitten crab The Chinese mitten crab (''Eriocheir sinensis''; ; Jyutping: daai6 zaap6 haai5; Shanghainese: ''du6-zaq8-ha5'',  "big sluice crab"), also known as the Shanghai hairy crab (, p ''Shànghǎi máoxiè''), is a medium-sized burrowing cr ...
) which generally live in the rivers of Korea that flow to the
Yellow Sea The Yellow Sea, also known as the North Sea, is a marginal sea of the Western Pacific Ocean located between mainland China and the Korean Peninsula, and can be considered the northwestern part of the East China Sea. Names It is one of four ...
. ''Chamge'' harvested in the
Imjin River The Imjin River (; South Korean spelling) or Rimjin (; North Korean spelling) is the 7th largest river in Korea. It flows from north to south, crossing the Demilitarized Zone and joining the Han River downstream of Seoul, near the Yellow Sea. ...
near the
Paju Paju (; ) is a Administrative divisions of South Korea, city in Gyeonggi Province, South Korea. Paju was made a city in 1997; it had previously been a county (''gun''). The city area of Paju is ,"Paju (Gyeonggi-do Province)." ''Naver Encyclopedi ...
region, is especially famous for its unique taste and less earthy smell. Thus, for many centuries the crabs were presented to the King of Korea as a delicacy. As records on ''chamge'' can be found in several historical documents regarding fisheries and cuisine such as ''Jasaneobo'', '' Gyuhap chongseo'' (Women's Encyclopedia), and the chapter ''Jeoneoji'' () of ''Imwon gyeongjeji'' (), it is clear that the dish has been a long-standing Korean delicacy. In present times, river pollution has decreased the crab's habitat. As a result, ''chamge'' is rarely found except in the Imjin River. ''Chamgejang'' is commonly nicknamed "bapdoduk' (밥도둑, its literal translation being "a meal thief" or "a rice thief") because it is considered a good dish for arousing one's appetite. As this dish is intended to be preserved for long periods of time, the ''gejang'' is typically saltier than other varieties. ''Chamgejang'' is also widely eaten in the
Gyeongsang Province Gyeongsang Province (; ) was one of the Eight Provinces of Joseon Korea. Gyeongsang was located in southeastern Korea. The provincial capital of Gyeongsang was Daegu. The region was the birthplace of the kingdom of Silla, which unified Korea i ...
, and is prepared at every house during autumn to make a ''
banchan ''Banchan'' ( ; ; ) are small side dishes served along with cooked rice in Korean cuisine. ''Banchan'' are often set in the middle of the table to be shared. At the center of the table is the secondary main course, such as ''galbi'' or ''bulg ...
'' (small side dish) for the next summer. The crabs are also caught in rice fields during the harvest season, with female crabs being considered ideal as they contain more roe and fatty
tomalley Tomalley is the hepatopancreas (the organ that fulfills the functions of both the liver and the pancreas) of a lobster, crab or other crustacean when used for culinary purposes. Tomalley found in lobster is also called lobster paste, which can ...
.


Serving

Yeosu Yeosu, formerly romanized as Yosu, is a coastal city located on the southern shore of South Korea. With a population of 268,823, Yeosu is the second largest city in South Jeolla Province. In 1998, the Old Yeosu City, Yeocheon City and Yeocheon C ...
is famous for ''gejang'' as well as ''gat''-kimchi (갓김치). A meal emphasizing ''ganjang-gejang'' is called ''gejang baekban'' (게장백반) that consists of a plate ''ganjang-gejang'', various plates of ''banchan'' (side dishes), and a bowl of cooked rice.Kim Gang-suk (김강숙) (in Korean
''해외 여행이 지겨워진 당신을 위한 국내코스 - 테마여행 (Themed tour - Domestic courses for those who are bored of aboard travel)''
Joins Join may refer to: * Join (law), to include additional counts or additional defendants on an indictment *In mathematics: ** Join (mathematics), a least upper bound of sets orders in lattice theory ** Join (topology), an operation combining two top ...


See also

*
Jeotgal ''Jeotgal'' () or ''jeot'' (), translated as salted seafood, is a category of salted preserved dishes made with seafood such as shrimps, oysters, clams, fish, and roe. Depending on the ingredients, ''jeotgal'' can range from flabby or solid pi ...
, salted fermented seafood *
Jangajji ''Jangajji'' () or pickled vegetables is a type of ''banchan'' (side dish) made by pickling vegetables. * Unlike kimchi, ''jangajji'' is non-fermented vegetables, usually pickled in soy sauce, soybean paste, or chili paste. ''Jangajji'' dish ...
, salted pickled vegetables *
Banchan ''Banchan'' ( ; ; ) are small side dishes served along with cooked rice in Korean cuisine. ''Banchan'' are often set in the middle of the table to be shared. At the center of the table is the secondary main course, such as ''galbi'' or ''bulg ...
, small side dishes *
Korean cuisine Korean cuisine is the set of foods and culinary styles which are associated with Korean culture. This cuisine has evolved through centuries of social and political change. Originating from ancient Prehistoric Korea, agricultural and nomad ...
*
List of crab dishes This is a list of crab dishes. Crabs live in all the world's oceans, in fresh water, and on land, are generally covered with a thick exoskeleton and are arthropoda and have a single pair of claws. Crab meat is the meat found within a crab. It is ...
*
List of seafood dishes This is a list of notable seafood dishes. Seafood dishes are food dishes which use seafood (fish, shellfish or seaweed) as primary ingredients, and are ready to be served or eaten with any needed preparation or cooking completed. Many fish or ...


References


External links


군산 계곡가든 꽃게장
at
The Hankyoreh ''The Hankyoreh'' () is a centre-left liberal daily newspaper in South Korea. It was established in 1988 after widespread purges forced out dissident journalists, and was envisioned as an alternative to existing newspapers, which were regarde ...

참을 수 없는 꽃게장의 유혹
at
Hankook Ilbo ''Hankook Ilbo'' () is a Korean-language daily newspaper in Seoul, South Korea. As of 2017, it had a daily circulation of about 213,200. It was previously published by the Hankook Ilbo Media Group, however following an embezzlement scandal i ...

Recipe
at Patzzi
Yangnyeom gejang recipe
at Patzzi {{Jeotgal Jeotgal Crab dishes Korean seafood dishes Animal-based fermented foods Joseon cuisine