Gandavah is a town that serves as the headquarters of
Jhal Magsi District of
Pakistan
Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...
's
Balochistan
Balochistan ( ; , ), also spelled as Baluchistan or Baluchestan, is a historical region in West and South Asia, located in the Iranian plateau's far southeast and bordering the Indian Plate and the Arabian Sea coastline. This arid region o ...
province.
Located on a small hill in the middle of the
Kach Gandava plain, Gandava is inhabited by a mix of
Sindhi,
Baloch,
Pathan,
Brahui, and
Hindu
Hindus (; ; also known as Sanātanīs) are people who religiously adhere to Hinduism, also known by its endonym Sanātana Dharma. Jeffery D. Long (2007), A Vision for Hinduism, IB Tauris, , pp. 35–37 Historically, the term has also be ...
communities.
The town has a long history and several old architectural monuments including the Moti Gohram tomb, locally known as "the
Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal ( ; ; ) is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the right bank of the river Yamuna in Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. It was commissioned in 1631 by the fifth Mughal Empire, Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan () to house the tomb of his belo ...
of Baluchistan".
Gandava also faces significant difficulties with needs like water, electricity, gas, healthcare, and education.
As of the
2017 Census of Pakistan
The 2017 Census of Pakistan was a detailed enumeration of the Pakistani population which began on 15 March 2017 and ended on 25 May 2017. It was the first census taken in the country in the 21st century, nineteen years after the previous one i ...
, Gandava Municipal Corporation has a population of 7,825 people, in 1,256 households,
rising to 24,130 in
2023
Catastrophic natural disasters in 2023 included the Lists of 21st-century earthquakes, 5th-deadliest earthquake of the 21st century 2023 Turkey–Syria earthquakes, striking Turkey and Syria, leaving up to 62,000 people dead; Cyclone Freddy ...
.
Name
The oldest name associated with the city is Qandabil, which appears in medieval Arabic sources.
Supposedly the name derives from the sweetness of its drinking water.
The present name Gandava first appears in classical Balochi poetry of the 15th century and has been widely used since the 18th century.
A third name, Ganjaba, first appears in sources from the 16th century.
It refers to "an abundance of water".
History
According to legend, pre-Islamic Qandabil was founded by
Bahman Ardashir to mark the boundary between the Indians and the Turks.
Muslim armies first reached Qandabil in 644, but soon withdrew after hearing of the caliph
Umar
Umar ibn al-Khattab (; ), also spelled Omar, was the second Rashidun caliph, ruling from August 634 until his assassination in 644. He succeeded Abu Bakr () and is regarded as a senior companion and father-in-law of the Islamic prophet Mu ...
's death that same year.
Qandabil was then controlled by the
Brahmin dynasty of Sindh
The Brahmin dynasty (), also known as the Chacha dynasty or Silaij dynasty, was a Sindhi Hindu dynasty that ruled the Sindh region, after usurping and overthrowing the Buddhist Rai dynasty of Sindh. Most of the information about its existence com ...
and became a refuge for Arabs fleeing from the
Umayyad
The Umayyad Caliphate or Umayyad Empire (, ; ) was the second caliphate established after the death of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and was ruled by the Umayyad dynasty. Uthman ibn Affan, the third of the Rashidun caliphs, was also a membe ...
government.
In 688, the
Kharijite
The Kharijites (, singular ) were an Islamic sect which emerged during the First Fitna (656–661). The first Kharijites were supporters of Ali who rebelled against his acceptance of arbitration talks to settle the conflict with his challeng ...
rebel
Atiyya ibn al-Aswad al-Hanafi fled to Qandabil pursued by a section of
al-Muhallab ibn Abi Sufra
Abū Saʿīd al-Muhallab ibn Abī Ṣufra al-Azdī (; 702) was an Arab general from the Azd tribe who fought in the service of the Rashidun, Umayyad and Zubayrid caliphs between the mid-640s and his death. He served successive terms as the go ...
's army and they killed him here.
Six years later, members of the '
Ilafi tribe killed
Sa'id ibn Aslam, the Muslim commander of
Makran
Makran (), also mentioned in some sources as ''Mecran'' and ''Mokrān'', is the southern coastal region of Balochistan. It is a semi-desert coastal strip in the Balochistan province in Pakistan and in Iran, along the coast of the Gulf of Oman. I ...
, at Qandabil.
Al-Hajjaj ibn Yusuf
Abu Muhammad al-Hajjaj ibn Yusuf ibn al-Hakam ibn Abi Aqil al-Thaqafi (; ), known simply as al-Hajjaj ibn Yusuf (), was the most notable governor who served the Umayyad Caliphate. He began his service under Caliph Abd al-Malik (), who successiv ...
sent
Mujja'a ibn Si'r to punish the 'Ilafis in 904; they fled before he could reach them but he was able to subjugate "the tribes of Qandabil" who had probably been aligned with the 'Ilafis.
From 704 to 711, Qandabil was held by
Raja Dahir
Raja Dahir (663 – 712 CE) was the last Hindu ruler of Sindh (in present-day Pakistan). A Brahmin ruler, his kingdom was invaded in 711 CE by the Arab Umayyad Caliphate, led by Muhammad bin Qasim, where Dahir died. According to the Chach Nama, ...
, who appointed his nephew Dhol as governor of Budhiya.
In 711, the Muslims under
Muhammad ibn al-Qasim decisively gained control of Qandabil, which became part of Muslim-ruled
Sindh
Sindh ( ; ; , ; abbr. SD, historically romanized as Sind (caliphal province), Sind or Scinde) is a Administrative units of Pakistan, province of Pakistan. Located in the Geography of Pakistan, southeastern region of the country, Sindh is t ...
.
In 720, al-Muhallab's rebelling sons fled to Qandabil, expecting to be given refuge, but their ally Wada' shut the gates and refused them entry and they were killed fighting against their pursuer Hilal ibn Ahwaz al-Tamimi.
In 754 Arab tribes occupied Qandabil but they were driven out by the governor of Sindh, Hisham ibn 'Amr.
Later, in 837, Qandabil was taken by Muhammad ibn Khalil, but 'Imran, governor of Sindh, recaptured the city and restored order.
Medieval Qandabil was the capital of the district called Budha or Budhiya (which was named not because its inhabitants were
Buddhist
Buddhism, also known as Buddhadharma and Dharmavinaya, is an Indian religion and List of philosophies, philosophical tradition based on Pre-sectarian Buddhism, teachings attributed to the Buddha, a wandering teacher who lived in the 6th or ...
s but rather because they belonged to the
Budh ethnic group) and had the town of Kizkanan or
Kikan, possibly the same as present-day
Kalat, as one of its dependencies.
The 9th-century writer
al-Baladhuri
ʾAḥmad ibn Yaḥyā ibn Jābir al-Balādhurī () was a 9th-century West Asian historian. One of the eminent Middle Eastern historians of his age, he spent most of his life in Baghdad and enjoyed great influence at the court of the caliph al ...
described Qandabil as being on an elevated site in the middle of the plain, which matches the present-day description of Gandava.
A century later,
Ibn Hawqal
Muḥammad Abū’l-Qāsim Ibn Ḥawqal (), also known as Abū al-Qāsim b. ʻAlī Ibn Ḥawqal al-Naṣībī, born in Nisibis, Al-Jazira (caliphal province), Upper Mesopotamia; was a 10th-century Arab Muslim writer, geographer, and chronic ...
described Qandabil as a large city standing alone on a plain where no date palms grew.
Also in the 10th century,
al-Istakhri
Abu Ishaq Ibrahim ibn Muhammad al-Farisi al-Istakhri () (also ''Estakhri'', , i.e. from the Iranian city of Istakhr, b. – d. 346 AH/AD 957) was a 10th-century travel author and Islamic geographer who wrote valuable accounts in Arabic of ...
described Qandabil as "the central market-place of the Budha hinterland, where 'the Budh people' sold their produce and obtained their supplies".
By the late 10th century, palm trees had been planted in the area around Qandabil – the anonymous author of the ''
Hudud al-'Alam
The ''Ḥudūd al-ʿĀlam'' (, "Boundaries of the World," "Limits of the World," or in also in English "The Regions of the World") is a 10th-century geography book written in Persian by an anonymous author from Guzgan (present day northern Afg ...
'' wrote that it was "a big city, prosperous and pleasant, producing large quantities of dates."
In the second half of the 15th century, Gandava (as it was now called) became the capital of the
Lashari
The Lashari () is a Baloch tribe, mainly residing in Derajat, Makran, Sindh, and the Kacchi Plain in east of Balochistan.
Introduction
Lashari — One of the main original sections, said to have settled in Gandava after the war with the ...
Baloch confederation under alliance with the
Samma dynasty
The Sammā dynasty () was a medieval Sindhi dynasty which ruled the Sindh Sultanate from 1351 before being replaced by the Arghun dynasty in 1524.
The Samma dynasty has left its mark in Sindh with structures including the necropolis of and ...
.
In 1518,
Shah Beg Arghun occupied Gandava while on his way to conquer Sindh.
The city later came under
Mughall rule in 1574 and formed part of the ''
mahal'' of
Fathpur and was administered from
Bukkur.
Gandava was later ruled by the
Kalhora dynasty
The Kalhora dynasty () was a Sindhi Muslim Kalhora tribe dynasty based in the region of Sindh, present day Pakistan. The dynasty governed much of Sindh and parts of Kutch (present-day Gujarat, India) between 1701 and 1783 from their capital of ...
.
The city walls were repaired in the early 1700s by a Kalhora officer named Murad and were still standing in the 19th century but are now in ruins.
In 1740,
Nader Shah
Nader Shah Afshar (; 6 August 1698 or 22 October 1688 – 20 June 1747) was the founder of the Afsharid dynasty of Iran and one of the most powerful rulers in Iranian history, ruling as shah of Iran (Persia) from 1736 to 1747, when he was a ...
conquered the Kalhoras and transferred Gandava to the
Khans of Kalat
The Khanate of Kalat, also known as the Brahui Confederacy, was a Brahui Khanate that originated in the modern-day Kalat region of Pakistan. Formed in 1666 due to the threat of Mughal expansion in the region,"Baluchistan" ''Imperial Gazet ...
.
It remained under their control until 1955 and served as their winter residence.
Demographics
Population
As of the
2023 census, Gandava had a population of 24,130.
References
{{Reflist
Populated places in Jhal Magsi District
Jhal Magsi District
Populated places in Balochistan, Pakistan