Fergus Henderson
(born 31 July 1963) is an English
chef
A chef is a professional Cook (profession), cook and tradesperson who is proficient in all aspects of outline of food preparation, food preparation, often focusing on a particular cuisine. The word "chef" is derived from the term (), the di ...
who founded the restaurant
St. John on St John Street in London. He is often noted for his use of
offal
Offal (), also called variety meats, pluck or organ meats, is the internal organ (anatomy), organs of a butchered animal. Offal may also refer to the by-products of Milling (grinding), milled grains, such as corn or wheat.
Some cultures strong ...
and other neglected cuts of meat as a consequence of his philosophy of
nose to tail eating. Following in the footsteps of his parents, Brian and Elizabeth Henderson, he trained as an architect at the
Architectural Association
The Architectural Association School of Architecture in London, commonly referred to as the AA, is the oldest private school of architecture in the UK. The AA hosts exhibitions, lectures, symposia and publications. History
The Architectura ...
in London. Most of his dishes are derived from traditional
British cuisine
British cuisine consists of the cooking traditions and practices associated with the United Kingdom, including the regional cuisines of English cuisine, England, Scottish cuisine, Scotland, Welsh cuisine, Wales, and Northern Irish cuisine, Nort ...
and the wines are all French.
Chefs
Anthony Bourdain
Anthony Michael Bourdain ( ; June 25, 1956 – June 8, 2018) was an American celebrity chef, author and Travel documentary, travel documentarian. He starred in programs focusing on the exploration of international culture, cuisine, and the huma ...
and
Mario Batali
Mario Francesco Batali (born September 19, 1960) is an American chef, writer, and former restaurateur. Batali co-owned restaurants in New York City; Las Vegas; Los Angeles; Newport Beach, California; Boston; Singapore; Westport, Connecticut; and ...
have both praised Henderson for his dishes, which optimise
British food while making full use of the whole animal. The critic
A. A. Gill
Adrian Anthony Gill (28 June 1954 – 10 December 2016) was a British writer, best known for writing about food and travel, and for his work in television. Publications he contributed to included ''The Sunday Times'', wrote for '' Vanity Fair'' ...
retracted his initial hostility to St John in the ''
Sunday Times
''The Sunday Times'' is a British Sunday newspaper whose circulation makes it the largest in Britain's quality press market category. It was founded in 1821 as ''The New Observer''. It is published by Times Newspapers Ltd, a subsidiary of N ...
''.
Fergus is married to fellow chef
Margot Henderson; the couple have three children.
Career
Henderson had no formal training in cooking, and has never worked under any other chef. In 1992 Henderson and his wife, Margot, opened the French House Dining Room at Soho's
French House
French house (also referred to as French touch, filter house, or tekfunk) is a style of house music devised by French musicians in the 1990s. It is a form of Eurodisco and a popular strand of the late 1990s and 2000s European dance music s ...
pub before he left to open the St. JOHN restaurant in 1994.
The menu at St. JOHN changes daily, but almost always includes roast bone marrow and parsley salad. It was awarded a
Michelin star
The ''Michelin Guides'' ( ; ) are a series of guide books that have been published by the French tyre company Michelin since 1900. The ''Guide'' awards up to three Michelin stars for excellence to a select few restaurants in certain geographic ...
in 2009.
In 2003 he opened St. John Bread and Wine in
Spitalfields
Spitalfields () is an area in London, England and is located in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets. It is in East London and situated in the East End of London, East End. Spitalfields is formed around Commercial Street, London, Commercial Stre ...
, London. A second St John restaurant located within the hotel in Chinatown was awarded a
Michelin star
The ''Michelin Guides'' ( ; ) are a series of guide books that have been published by the French tyre company Michelin since 1900. The ''Guide'' awards up to three Michelin stars for excellence to a select few restaurants in certain geographic ...
in 2009. This venue is no longer open.
''Nose to Tail'' Books
In 1999 Henderson published ''
Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking'' in which he provides recipes incorporating
trotters,
tripe
Tripe is a type of edible lining from the stomachs of various farm animals. Most tripe is from cattle and sheep.
Types
Beef
Beef tripe is made from the muscle wall (the interior mucosal lining is removed) of a cow's stomach chambers: th ...
,
kidney
In humans, the kidneys are two reddish-brown bean-shaped blood-filtering organ (anatomy), organs that are a multilobar, multipapillary form of mammalian kidneys, usually without signs of external lobulation. They are located on the left and rig ...
s,
chitterlings
Chitterlings ( ), sometimes spelled chitlins or chittlins, are a food most commonly made from the small intestines of pigs, though cow, lamb, goose and goat may also be used.
They may be filled with a forcemeat to make sausage.''Oxford English ...
and other animal parts.
The book explains the philosophy behind his cooking explaining that "it seems common sense and even polite to the animal to use all of it. Rather than being testosterone-fuelled blood-lust, it actually seems to be a gentle approach to meat eating." In 2007, he published a sequel, ''Beyond Nose To Tail'', and in 2012 ''The Complete Nose to Tail: A Kind of British Cooking''.
Hotel
Henderson opened a hotel in spring 2011 that was described by his business partner Trevor Gulliver as being 'in the St John vernacular'. It was located in
London's Chinatown district near
Leicester Square
Leicester Square ( ) is a pedestrianised town square, square in the West End of London, England, and is the centre of London's entertainment district. It was laid out in 1670 as Leicester Fields, which was named after the recently built Leice ...
1 Leicester Street. However, the hotel went into administration in October 2012, and was sold and subsequently closed.
Diagnosis with Parkinson's disease and recognition
Henderson's stoic approach to
Parkinson's disease
Parkinson's disease (PD), or simply Parkinson's, is a neurodegenerative disease primarily of the central nervous system, affecting both motor system, motor and non-motor systems. Symptoms typically develop gradually and non-motor issues become ...
, with which he was diagnosed in 1998, increased the regard in which he was held and he was appointed
Member of the Order of the British Empire
The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire is a British order of chivalry, rewarding valuable service in a wide range of useful activities. It comprises five classes of awards across both civil and military divisions, the most senior two o ...
(MBE) in 2005. The same year he underwent innovative
Deep Brain Stimulation
Deep brain stimulation (DBS) is a type of neurostimulation therapy in which an implantable pulse generator is stereotactic surgery, surgically implanted subcutaneous tissue, below the skin of the chest and connected by Lead (electronics), leads ...
which improved his mobility.
[
He was appointed ]Officer of the Order of the British Empire
The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire is a British order of chivalry, rewarding valuable service in a wide range of useful activities. It comprises five classes of awards across both civil and military divisions, the most senior two o ...
(OBE) in the 2021 New Year Honours
The 2021 New Year Honours are appointments by some of the 16 Commonwealth realms to various orders and honours to recognise and reward good works by citizens of those countries. The New Year Honours are awarded as part of the New Year celebratio ...
for services to the culinary arts.
Bibliography
*1999 – '' Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking'' (Bloomsbury Publishing
Bloomsbury Publishing plc is a British worldwide publishing house of fiction and non-fiction. Bloomsbury's head office is located on Bedford Square in Bloomsbury, an area of the London Borough of Camden. It has a US publishing office located in ...
)
*2007 – ''Beyond Nose to Tail: A Kind of British Cooking: Part II'' (Bloomsbury Publishing)
*2012 – ''The Complete Nose to Tail: A Kind of British Cooking'' (Bloomsbury Publishing)
References
External links
St John restaurant
'On Authenticity', film by Christian Banfield
{{DEFAULTSORT:Henderson, Fergus
1963 births
Living people
English chefs
English restaurateurs
English cookbook writers
Businesspeople from London
20th-century English writers
21st-century English writers
Officers of the Order of the British Empire
People with Parkinson's disease
Writers from London