Fernside is a generous and luxurious five-bedroom white-weatherboard slate-roofed American Colonial Revival style house with an L-shape plan. It covers approximately 9,000 square feet or less than 1,000 square metres. There are three further bedrooms in the staff wing of the main house. Set by the
Tauherenikau River on the plain below the junction of the
Tararua and
Rimutaka
The Remutaka Range (spelled Rimutaka Range before 2017) is the southernmost range of a mountain chain in the lower North Island of New Zealand. The chain continues north into the Tararua, then Ruahine Ranges, running parallel with the east c ...
ranges Fernside was built in 1924 to replace a house destroyed by fire.
The current building is the work of the educated tastes of client,
Ella, Mrs Charles Elgar and her 29-year-old architect,
Heathcote Helmore
Heathcote George Helmore (1 May 1894 – 21 May 1965) was a notable New Zealand architect.
Early life
Helmore was born in Rangiora, New Zealand, in 1894, the eldest child of Christchurch-born solicitor and former national rugby representati ...
.
The house is near
Featherston down a tree-lined mile-long (1.6 kilometres) drive from
State Highway 2 and surrounded by 12 acres of expertly maintained and landscaped gardens. The gardens have mature features much more than a century old. The associated farmland which gave it the title homestead has been under separate ownership since 1945.
Fernside is one of a small group of similar sized houses. This location let not-quite-absentee owners of remote coastal sheep stations live with easy access to the railway, main roads system and later, at the local
Tauherenikau Racecourse
Tauherenikau Racecourse is a racecourse near, Featherston. It is owned by The Wairarapa Racing Club
It is set in 110 acres of native trees.
Wairarapa Racing Club
The Wairarapa Racing Club was formed on 21 April 1864 and held meetings elsewhere ...
, an airfield.
It has always been and remains a private residence. In the early 1990s before putting it up for sale an owner did offer a then rundown Fernside as an exclusive B & B lodge.
Fernside was the name of the district which is now a part of Tauherenikau.
Fernside railway station
Fernside railway station was a flag station that served the small rural community of Fernside, north-east of Featherston in New Zealand’s North Island. It was located on the Wairarapa Line near the southern bank of the Tauherenikau Rive ...
, accessed from the far side of the railway line, closed in 1975.
Concept
Though built of timber —in view of the
1942 Wairarapa earthquakes
Two 1942 Wairarapa earthquakes shook the lower North Island of New Zealand; on 24 June and 2 August. They were large and shallow with epicentres close together east of Masterton in the Wairarapa region. The June earthquake was sometimes referr ...
, fortunately — it was conceived as a brick building and the working drawings were made on that assumption.
[Michael Fowler. ''Country Houses of New Zealand, North Island'' A.H. & A.W. Reed, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Sydney, Melbourne. 1971 ]
History
The first significant house on this farm was built on Underhill Road in the early 1870s for Henry Bunny. In 1876 it was bought by
Richard John Barton
Richard John Barton II (27 December 1879 – 26 May 1931) was a New Zealand pastoralist, runholder, businessman and author in the early 20th century in Wellington and the Wairarapa.
Life
Early life
Richard John Barton was born on 27 Dece ...
(1846–1879) of White Rock Station
[His White Rock partner and younger brother William Barton (1858–1938) built a house on the same road and called it Fareham. It has Heritage New Zealand List Entry Type —Historic Place Category 2.] and his wife, Pihautea-born Catherine Carne Bidwill. Catherine's father brought the first flock of sheep to the Wairarapa in 1844
We understand that . . . ''Wairarapa Standard'' 12 September 1876 Page 2 but, ill for a long time, he died in 1879. Mrs Barton remarried to G. T. F. Hutton of Ruatuna (Ruakokapatuna), Martinborough in 1881.
Mrs Elgar
Charles Elgar leased Fernside's 1,134 acres or 460 hectares from the Barton trustees about 1886.
He married
Ella Pharazyn in 1890, their only child was born there the following year, and he bought the property in 1888.
[The sometimes slightly adulatory tone of Te Papa items ''Fernside, the Elgar homestead'' and ''Biography of Ella Grace Elgar'' may have been a sign of response to pressure. Te Papa curators decided old European furnishings however fine did not fit with their project. Their unpublicised attempts to liquidate the Elgar bequest were reported in the daily press and subsequently blocked.] Mrs Hutton kept the homestead with a 100-acre
home farm and lived there until the autumn of 1901 and afterwards was known as Algies Farm.
Gardens

The Fernside/Longwood water race was begun in 1890 and Fernside lake is known to have existed by 1899. In the summer of 1908 -1909 there were extensive alterations to the Fernside headworks of their joint
water-race scheme improving the water supply to livestock at Fernside and at Longwood. Seventeen men were employed. Shortly before Christmas 1913 members of The Wairarapa Automobile Association and friends were entertained by Martin Elgar and Mrs Izard, sister of Mrs Charles Elgar, at a garden party at Fernside. ''The Evening Post'' reported: “A large sum of money has been spent on the grounds" and how H. R. Bunny, in his speech thanking host and hostess on behalf of the club's committee, "remarked that a wilderness of fern and manuka had been transformed into a veritable paradise”
Fire
The Elgar's homestead
[National Library]
Reference Number: Pan-0238-F of 20 rooms and its contents were totally destroyed by fire in November 1923. Being heavily insured the Elgars appointed Heathcote Helmore to design a new one and promptly departed overseas to buy antiques and furnishings for their new home.
Heathcote Helmore
Heathcote Helmore
Heathcote George Helmore (1 May 1894 – 21 May 1965) was a notable New Zealand architect.
Early life
Helmore was born in Rangiora, New Zealand, in 1894, the eldest child of Christchurch-born solicitor and former national rugby representati ...
, one of a well-known Christchurch family, was
articled
Apprenticeship is a system for training a new generation of practitioners of a trade or profession with on-the-job training and often some accompanying study (classroom work and reading). Apprenticeships can also enable practitioners to gain a ...
to architect
Cecil Wood in 1912 aged 17. Following the 1914 outbreak of war he was posted to the position of
A-d-c to the current Governor-General and he remained there four years. He is assumed to have returned to Wood to finish his articles after the
Armistice
An armistice is a formal agreement of warring parties to stop fighting. It is not necessarily the end of a war, as it may constitute only a cessation of hostilities while an attempt is made to negotiate a lasting peace. It is derived from the ...
. He won admission to the
Institute of Architects in April 1920. With a younger architect friend,
Guy Cotterill
Guy or GUY may refer to:
Personal names
* Guy (given name)
* Guy (surname)
* That Guy (...), the New Zealand street performer Leigh Hart
Places
* Guy, Alberta, a Canadian hamlet
* Guy, Arkansas, US, a city
* Guy, Indiana, US, an unincorp ...
, he set out to gather overseas experience. They travelled to England in July 1920 on the ship
S.S. Ionic with the retiring Governor-General and when they docked in
Newport News
Newport News () is an independent city in the U.S. state of Virginia. At the 2020 census, the population was 186,247. Located in the Hampton Roads region, it is the 5th most populous city in Virginia and 140th most populous city in the Unit ...
took up his offer to take them in
Liverpool
Liverpool is a City status in the United Kingdom, city and metropolitan borough in Merseyside, England. With a population of in 2019, it is the List of English districts by population, 10th largest English district by population and its E ...
's car to
Yorktown where the young men took a deep interest in the
colonial architecture of Virginia.
[UC Research Repository]
Robert Jonathan Esau. ''Helmore and Cotterill, the formative years'', Thesis, University of Canterbury 1988
In London Helmore maintained social links with well-connected people including Mrs Elgar's son-in-law, an A.d.c. to the previous
Governor
A governor is an administrative leader and head of a polity or political region, ranking under the head of state and in some cases, such as governors-general, as the head of state's official representative. Depending on the type of political ...
. Along with Cotterill Helmore worked for an architectural firm in London on a large private building and in laying out planned new
garden suburb
The garden city movement was a 20th century urban planning movement promoting satellite communities surrounding the central city and separated with greenbelts. These Garden Cities would contain proportionate areas of residences, industry, and ...
s at Portsmouth and at Weybridge but the projects were cancelled and by September 1921 their work had ended. At the suggestion of the same son-in-law
Sir Edwin Lutyens
Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens ( ; 29 March 1869 – 1 January 1944) was an English architect known for imaginatively adapting traditional architectural styles to the requirements of his era. He designed many English country houses, war memoria ...
invited Helmore to work, sometimes directly with him, on the detailing of the interior of
Queen Mary's Dolls' House
Queen Mary's Dolls' House is a dollhouse built in the early 1920s, completed in 1924, for Queen Mary, the wife of King George V. It was designed by architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, with contributions from many notable artists and craftsmen of the ...
.
Gertrude Jekyll
Gertrude Jekyll ( ; 29 November 1843 – 8 December 1932) was a British horticulturist, garden designer, craftswoman, photographer, writer and artist. She created over 400 gardens in the United Kingdom, Europe and the United States, and wrote ...
provided plans for a garden for the Queen’s Dolls’ House. Her niece Barbara
Barbara may refer to:
People
* Barbara (given name)
* Barbara (painter) (1915–2002), pseudonym of Olga Biglieri, Italian futurist painter
* Barbara (singer) (1930–1997), French singer
* Barbara Popović (born 2000), also known mononymously as ...
married Wellington-raised war hero Bernard Freyberg
Lieutenant-general (United Kingdom), Lieutenant-General Bernard Cyril Freyberg, 1st Baron Freyberg, (21 March 1889 – 4 July 1963) was a British-born New Zealand soldier and Victoria Cross recipient, who served as the List of Governors-General ...
in 1922. Expatriates in London tend to flock together. Mrs Elgar’s son-in-law knew architect Edwin Lutyens well enough to ask for and get a job for his friend, Helmore. However there is no record of participation by Gertrude Jekyll in any schemes for Fernside’s gardens. He started with Lutyens at the beginning of October 1921. On at least one occasion Helmore exhibited some of his drawings to Queen Mary. He may have worked on minor buildings near the Viceroy's house in New Delhi. There is no record of when he left Lutyens but by February 1923 he was back in Christchurch and had begun his practice on his own account.
[
]
Their masterpiece
Mrs Elgar was gifted with a "discerning eye and superb taste"[Campbell Moon. Fernside, ''Living with Antiques'', Mallinson Rendel, Wellington 1983 ] and she selected with care. With Heathcote Helmore and his "strong regard for historical precedent"[ Ella Elgar developed the design of the new house and its surroundings. Their creation is admired for being totally at ease and in harmony with itself. Once more the indefatigable Mrs Elgar collected particularly high-quality furniture and furnishings. Her careful documentation of purchases right down to domestic linen (monogrammed) and soft furnishings is in the possession of her family.][ Helmore was to maintain a keen interest in garden design throughout his career.][
]
Charles Elgar died suddenly in the luncheon interval of the Easter Saturday 1930 race meeting at the neighbouring Tauherenikau Racecourse
Tauherenikau Racecourse is a racecourse near, Featherston. It is owned by The Wairarapa Racing Club
It is set in 110 acres of native trees.
Wairarapa Racing Club
The Wairarapa Racing Club was formed on 21 April 1864 and held meetings elsewhere ...
. He owned Clay Creek station near Martinborough and Awa Awaroa station in Kahutara. With his brother Martin, he competed with other woolgrowers to create the ideal breed for New Zealand conditions, their contribution was to Border Leicester
The Border Leicester is a British breed of sheep.
It is a polled, long-wool sheep and is considered a dual-purpose breed as it is reared both for meat and for wool. The sheep are large but docile. They have been exported to other sheep-produ ...
s. An enthusiastic owner of thoroughbred racehorses his obituary claimed "His courage as a buyer of thoroughbred horses was never rewarded in proportion to the extent of his purchases, but from time to time he has had some useful horses carrying his colours."
The second world war broke out in September 1939 and in February 1940 Mrs Elgar offered the use of the house to the Red Cross 'for the duration of the war' as a convalescent home for officers and men of New Zealand Division
The New Zealand Division was an infantry division of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force raised for service in the First World War. It was formed in Egypt in early 1916 when the New Zealand and Australian Division was renamed after the detachme ...
. There had been newspaper reports of Japanese atrocities. In September 1942 at the request of the U.S. Government her paddocks between her house and the main road were taken for a Japanese Prisoner of War camp. 31 prisoners were killed there on 23 February 1943. She took a flat in central Christchurch
Christchurch ( ; mi, Ōtautahi) is the largest city in the South Island of New Zealand and the seat of the Canterbury Region. Christchurch lies on the South Island's east coast, just north of Banks Peninsula on Pegasus Bay. The Avon Rive ...
where she died in the spring of 1945. Fernside's farmland was given to the R. S. A., split into three blocks and sold by ballot to returned servicemen. A dispersal sale of unwanted house contents was held on-site in April 1946. Under her will the Dominion Museum
The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa is New Zealand's national museum and is located in Wellington. ''Te Papa Tongarewa'' translates literally to "container of treasures" or in full "container of treasured things and people that spring fr ...
now the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
The Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa is New Zealand's national museum and is located in Wellington. ''Te Papa Tongarewa'' translates literally to "container of treasures" or in full "container of treasured things and people that spring fr ...
received some of Fernside's furniture. In the Dominion Museum it was displayed in sets of period rooms designed by Heathcote Helmore for the purpose but at Te Papa some items are displayed individually from time to time.
U.S. Government
U.S. Forces won the May 1942 Battle of the Coral Sea
The Battle of the Coral Sea, from 4 to 8 May 1942, was a major naval battle between the Imperial Japanese Navy (IJN) and naval and air forces of the United States and Australia. Taking place in the Pacific Theatre of World War II, the batt ...
and saved New Zealand from Japanese occupation. Postwar the U.S. Government wanted to replace the British and bring New Zealand closer within its ambit. New Zealand's first ambassador from the United States, Robert M. Scotten
Robert McGregor Scotten (1891–1968) was an American ambassador to Costa Rica
Costa Rica (, ; ; literally "Rich Coast"), officially the Republic of Costa Rica ( es, República de Costa Rica), is a country in the Central American regi ...
, appointed in late 1947, arranged his government's purchase of 38 Fitzherbert Terrace (built 1926 to the American Colonial Revival
The Colonial Revival architectural style seeks to revive elements of American colonial architecture.
The beginnings of the Colonial Revival style are often attributed to the Centennial Exhibition of 1876, which reawakened Americans to the archit ...
designs of the same firm, Helmore & Cotterill,[ demolished for the motorway) in Thorndon, Wellington in July 1948 as an official residence. Ambassador Scotten sat in on ]Cabinet
Cabinet or The Cabinet may refer to:
Furniture
* Cabinetry, a box-shaped piece of furniture with doors and/or drawers
* Display cabinet, a piece of furniture with one or more transparent glass sheets or transparent polycarbonate sheets
* Filing ...
meetings. To cultivate people in government and of wider community influence with considerable style, and well away from Wellington, Scotten and his wife also occupied 70 kilometres distant Fernside as their country residence. The United States government
The federal government of the United States (U.S. federal government or U.S. government) is the national government of the United States, a federal republic located primarily in North America, composed of 50 states, a city within a fede ...
later approved the purchase of Fernside from the Elgar trustees as of 31 March 1949. Visiting dignitaries included Helen Keller and Pat Nixon
Thelma Catherine "Pat" Nixon (''née'' Ryan; March 16, 1912 – June 22, 1993) was First Lady of the United States from 1969 to 1974 as the wife of President Richard Nixon. She also served as Second Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 ...
.
The ANZUS Pact
The Australia, New Zealand, United States Security Treaty (ANZUS or ANZUS Treaty) is a 1951 non-binding collective security agreement between Australia and New Zealand and, separately, Australia and the United States, to co-operate on military ...
entered into force in April 1952. Subsequent ambassadors found Fernside too remote for their scaled down objectives and it was offered for sale in 1955. After some time it was bought by a Wellington professional man for family weekends. It has changed hands a number of times since then.
Twenty-first century
Fernside has remained in private ownership and occupation. The current owners bought it in 2007. They have restored the house and its contents to the fine 1920s style and high standards of Mrs Elgar and make a continuing major investment in its surrounding gardens which are sometimes opened to the public.
Fernside's gardens before restoration featured in Peter Jackson
Sir Peter Robert Jackson (born 31 October 1961) is a New Zealand film director, screenwriter and producer. He is best known as the director, writer and producer of the ''Lord of the Rings'' trilogy (2001–2003) and the ''Hobbit'' trilogy ( ...
's 2003 film ''The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King''.Lonely Planet
filming locations in the Wellington area
Notes
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Fernside Homestead
Houses in New Zealand
Gardens in New Zealand
1920s architecture in New Zealand
Buildings and structures in the Wairarapa
Featherston, New Zealand
Georgian Revival architecture