Eduard Koblmueller
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Eduard "Edi" Koblmueller (German: Koblmüller) (10 April 1946 – 16 April 2015) was an Austrian mountaineer.


Life

Koblmueller was born in
Linz Linz (Pronunciation: , ; ) is the capital of Upper Austria and List of cities and towns in Austria, third-largest city in Austria. Located on the river Danube, the city is in the far north of Austria, south of the border with the Czech Repub ...
,
Austria Austria, formally the Republic of Austria, is a landlocked country in Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine Federal states of Austria, states, of which the capital Vienna is the List of largest cities in Aust ...
. He studied at the
University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna The University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna, or simply BOKU (derived from its German name, , ), founded in 1872, is an education and research centre for renewable resources in Vienna, Austria. BOKU combines expertise in the field ...
with a degree in forestry. In 1978 he founded with his wife Elisabeth a mountaineering school called ''Bergspechte'' and for that gave up his secure position with the government of
Upper Austria Upper Austria ( ; ; ) is one of the nine States of Austria, states of Austria. Its capital is Linz. Upper Austria borders Germany and the Czech Republic, as well as the other Austrian states of Lower Austria, Styria, and Salzburg (state), Salzbur ...
(he worked in the department of agriculture and forestry and was responsible for environmental matters, at a time when no department for these existed.) In 1991 he was caught by an avalanche in the
Pyrenees The Pyrenees are a mountain range straddling the border of France and Spain. They extend nearly from their union with the Cantabrian Mountains to Cap de Creus on the Mediterranean coast, reaching a maximum elevation of at the peak of Aneto. ...
and rescued by his team, but suffered knee injuries with long-term consequences. In 2005 he was completely buried by an avalanche in
Abruzzo Abruzzo (, ; ; , ''Abbrìzze'' or ''Abbrèzze'' ; ), historically also known as Abruzzi, is a Regions of Italy, region of Southern Italy with an area of 10,763 square km (4,156 sq mi) and a population of 1.3 million. It is divided into four ...
, but located and excavated by friends. In this incident, he suffered no injuries. In 1999, Koblmueller's older son Michael died at the age of 24 during an ascent of the
Diran Diran () is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Bagrot Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. This , pyramid-shaped mountain lies to the east of Rakaposhi (7,788m). Diran was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrian mountaineers: Rainer Goeschl ...
(7,266-meter/23,839 ft) in an avalanche. In 2003, his wife died at age 56 during an exercise in an indoor climbing wall. Both Koblmueller and his wife were licensed mountain guides, as is their younger son Reinhard. Since 1968, Koblmueller participated in expeditions in the
Andes The Andes ( ), Andes Mountains or Andean Mountain Range (; ) are the List of longest mountain chains on Earth, longest continental mountain range in the world, forming a continuous highland along the western edge of South America. The range ...
, in the
Hindu Kush The Hindu Kush is an mountain range in Central Asia, Central and South Asia to the west of the Himalayas. It stretches from central and eastern Afghanistan into northwestern Pakistan and far southeastern Tajikistan. The range forms the wester ...
, in the
Karakoram The Karakoram () is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range is withi ...
and the
Himalayas The Himalayas, or Himalaya ( ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the Earth's highest peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest. More than list of h ...
, and achieved important first ascents. His most important accomplishment was the first ascent of the Southeast Face of
Cho Oyu Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
(8201 m/26,906 ft) in 1978 together with Alois Furtner Koblmueller was considered one of the most successful Austrian expedition mountaineer, and reached five
eight-thousanders The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defi ...
. In the summer of 2014, he sold his shares of the Bergspechte company to a German firm operating in the same field, but remained active as an adviser. On 10 April 2015 Koblmueller led a group of nine participants in a ski expedition to Mount Kazbek (5047 m/16,516 ft) in the
Greater Caucasus The Greater Caucasus, ''Didi K’avk’asioni''; is the major mountain range of the Caucasus Mountains. It stretches for about from west-northwest to east-southeast, from the Taman Peninsula of the Black Sea to the Absheron Peninsula of t ...
. During one leg of the ascent the group encountered a snow storm. Seven members of the mostly Austrian group managed to reach a hut and were unharmed. As guide, Koblmueller aided a 59-year-old Austrian participant. Both were caught in a blizzard, and were found on the afternoon of 16 April 2015 at an altitude of 4700 m having died of hypothermia. Their bodies were retrieved by helicopter.Bergunglück Georgien: Überlebende zurück
ooe. ORF.at April 20, 2015, accessed May 2, 2015.


Mountaineering achievements (selected)

* K6 (7281 m/23,891 ft) 1970, First ascent with Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken and Gerd Pressl * Chogolisa (7668 m/25,157 ft), 1975. First ascent of Chogolisa I. *
Cho Oyu Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
(8201 m/26,901 ft): 1978, First ascent of Southeast Face in
alpine style Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large climbing route, routes (e.g. multi-pitch climbing, ...
*
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...
(8125 m/26,660 ft): 1983, Rupal Face with one partner *
Batura Sar __NOTOC__ Batura Sar (), also referred to as Batura I, is the 25th-highest mountain on Earth. It is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram range. It forms the apex of the Batura Wall, a continu ...
(7785 m/25,574 ft), Karakoram: 1983, First ascent of South Face *
Diran Diran () is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Bagrot Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. This , pyramid-shaped mountain lies to the east of Rakaposhi (7,788m). Diran was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrian mountaineers: Rainer Goeschl ...
(7266 m/23,893 ft), Karakoram: 1985, First ascent of North Pillar *
Rakaposhi Rakaposhi (; ) also known as Dumani () is a mountain within the Karakoram range in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan. It is situated in the middle of the Nagar and Bagrote valleys. The mountain is extremely broad, measuring almost from east to west ...
(7010 m/25,551 ft), Karakoram: 1985, First ascent of North Pillar * K2 (8611 m/28,251 ft): 1989, Attempt of a new route in the East Face, up to 7200 m/23,600 ft *
Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapur ...
(8167 m/26,795 ft): 1996, Reached summit together with son Michael Koblmüller *
Muztagh Ata Muztagh Ata (meaning 'Ice Mountain Father' in English), formerly known as Mount Tagharma and Wi-tagh, is the second highest of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, with an elevation of . It is sometimes regarded a ...
(7546 m/24,636 ft): 1997, Ski ascent *
Shishapangma Shishapangma, or Shishasbangma or Xixiabangma ( zh, s=希夏邦马, p=Xī xià bāng mǎ), is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. The lowest 8,000 metre peak, it is located entirely within Tibet. Name Geologist Toni H ...
(8013 m/26,335 ft): 1998 *
Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
(8047 m/26,414): 1999, Reached summit with son Reinhard Koblmüller * Pik Lenin (7134 m/23,406 ft), Pamir,
Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyzstan, officially the Kyrgyz Republic, is a landlocked country in Central Asia lying in the Tian Shan and Pamir Mountains, Pamir mountain ranges. Bishkek is the Capital city, capital and List of cities in Kyrgyzstan, largest city. Kyrgyz ...
: 2002


References


External links


www.bergsteigen.com - Biografie von Edi Koblmüller (13. April 2006)
{{DEFAULTSORT:Koblmueller, Eduard Austrian mountain climbers 1946 births 2015 deaths Austrian foresters Sportspeople from Linz