Eberbach Monastery
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Eberbach Abbey (German: Kloster Eberbach) is a former
Cistercian The Cistercians (), officially the Order of Cistercians (, abbreviated as OCist or SOCist), are a Catholic religious order of monks and nuns that branched off from the Benedictines and follow the Rule of Saint Benedict, as well as the contri ...
monastery in
Eltville Eltville am Rhein (; from ''Alta Villa'', Latin for "high estate, high town", corrupted to ''Eldeville'', ''Elfeld'' and later Eltville ) is a town in the Rheingau-Taunus-Kreis in the ''Regierungsbezirk'' of Darmstadt in Hesse, Germany. It lies on ...
in the
Rheingau The Rheingau (; ) is a region on the northern side of the Rhine between the German towns of Wiesbaden and Lorch, Hesse, Lorch near Frankfurt, reaching from the Western Taunus to the Rhine. It is situated in the German state of Hesse and is part ...
, Germany. On account of its Romanesque and early Gothic buildings it is considered one of the most significant architectural heritage sites in
Hesse Hesse or Hessen ( ), officially the State of Hesse (), is a States of Germany, state in Germany. Its capital city is Wiesbaden, and the largest urban area is Frankfurt, which is also the country's principal financial centre. Two other major hist ...
. In the winter of 1985/86 some of the interior scenes of ''
The Name of the Rose ''The Name of the Rose'' ( ) is the 1980 debut novel by Italian author Umberto Eco. It is a historical fiction, historical murder mystery set in an Italian monastery in the year 1327, and an intellectual mystery combining semiotics in fiction, ...
'' were filmed here. The abbey is a main venue of the annual Rheingau Musik Festival.


History


Abbey

The first
monastic Monasticism (; ), also called monachism or monkhood, is a religious way of life in which one renounces worldly pursuits to devote oneself fully to spiritual activities. Monastic life plays an important role in many Christian churches, especially ...
house at the site was founded in 1116 by Archbishop Adalbert of Mainz, as a house of Augustinian canons. It was then bestowed by him in 1131 upon the
Benedictines The Benedictines, officially the Order of Saint Benedict (, abbreviated as O.S.B. or OSB), are a mainly Christian mysticism, contemplative Christian monasticism, monastic Religious order (Catholic), order of the Catholic Church for men and f ...
. This foundation failed to establish itself, and the successor, ''Kloster Eberbach'', was founded in 1136 by
Bernard of Clairvaux Bernard of Clairvaux, Cistercians, O.Cist. (; 109020 August 1153), venerated as Saint Bernard, was an abbot, Mysticism, mystic, co-founder of the Knights Templar, and a major leader in the reform of the Benedictines through the nascent Cistercia ...
as the first Cistercian monastery on the east bank of the
Rhine The Rhine ( ) is one of the List of rivers of Europe, major rivers in Europe. The river begins in the Swiss canton of Graubünden in the southeastern Swiss Alps. It forms part of the Swiss-Liechtenstein border, then part of the Austria–Swit ...
. Eberbach soon became one of the largest and most active monasteries of Germany. From it a number of other foundations were made: Schönau Abbey near
Heidelberg Heidelberg (; ; ) is the List of cities in Baden-Württemberg by population, fifth-largest city in the States of Germany, German state of Baden-Württemberg, and with a population of about 163,000, of which roughly a quarter consists of studen ...
in 1142; Otterberg Abbey in the Palatinate in 1144; Gottesthal Abbey near
Liège Liège ( ; ; ; ; ) is a City status in Belgium, city and Municipalities in Belgium, municipality of Wallonia, and the capital of the Liège Province, province of Liège, Belgium. The city is situated in the valley of the Meuse, in the east o ...
in 1155; and Arnsburg Abbey in the
Wetterau The Wetterau (, ) is a fertile undulating tract, watered by the Wetter (river), Wetter, a tributary of the Nidda (river), Nidda River, in the western German state of Hesse, between the hilly province Oberhessen and the north-western Taunus mounta ...
in 1174. At its height in the 12th and 13th centuries, the population is estimated to have been about 100 monks and over 200 lay brothers. Eberbach Abbey was also very successful economically, principally as a result of profits from the cultivation of vineyards and the production of wine. At least 14 members of the family of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen were buried in the church. Among them was Count Johann IV of Katzenelnbogen, who was the first to plant
Riesling Riesling ( , ) is a white grape variety that originated in the Rhine region. Riesling is an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling ...
vines, in a new vineyard in the nearby village of Rüsselsheim, when the monks of Eberbach were still growing red grapes such as Grobrot, the earliest grape variety recorded in Eberbach. In about 1525 it is said that in the abbey there was an enormous wine barrel with a volume of between c. 50,000 and 100,000 litres, which in the German Peasants' War of 1525 was heavily used by rebels from the Rheingau, who were encamped just below the monastery. During the
Thirty Years' War The Thirty Years' War, fought primarily in Central Europe between 1618 and 1648, was one of the most destructive conflicts in History of Europe, European history. An estimated 4.5 to 8 million soldiers and civilians died from battle, famine ...
, the abbey was severely damaged, beginning with an attack by the Swedish army in 1631. Many valuable items from the church and the library were looted, and the monks were forced to flee. Only 20 of them returned in 1635 to begin a laborious reconstruction. The 18th century was a period of great economic success: surviving accounts show that the abbey profits were regularly invested on the
Frankfurt Frankfurt am Main () is the most populous city in the States of Germany, German state of Hesse. Its 773,068 inhabitants as of 2022 make it the List of cities in Germany by population, fifth-most populous city in Germany. Located in the forela ...
money market. The final decline set in with the French Revolution. After the ''
Reichsdeputationshauptschluss The ' (formally the ', or "Principal Conclusion of the Extraordinary Imperial Delegation"), sometimes referred to in English as the Final Recess or the Imperial Recess of 1803, was a resolution passed by the ' (Imperial Diet) of the Holy Roman Em ...
'' the abbey was dissolved on 18 September 1803 and with its assets and territory became the property of Prince Friedrich Augustus of Nassau-Usingen.


After secularisation

The lands passed from Nassau-Usingen in 1866 to
Prussia Prussia (; ; Old Prussian: ''Prūsija'') was a Germans, German state centred on the North European Plain that originated from the 1525 secularization of the Prussia (region), Prussian part of the State of the Teutonic Order. For centuries, ...
, from 1918 to 1945 to the
People's State of Hesse The People's State of Hesse () was one of the constituent states of Weimar Republic, Germany from 1918 to 1945, as the successor to the Grand Duchy of Hesse () after the defeat of the German Empire in World War I, on the territory of the curren ...
, and from 1945 have formed part of the State of Hesse. The premises were put to a variety of uses. An asylum was accommodated here until 1873 (the forerunner of the ''Zentrum für Soziale Psychiatrie Rheinblick'') and until 1912 a prison. Management of the vineyards and wine production has continued in state hands. After considerable structural work Eberbach serves inter alia as a venue for cultural events and displays, and as a film location, as for example for
Umberto Eco Umberto Eco (5 January 1932 – 19 February 2016) was an Italian Medieval studies, medievalist, philosopher, Semiotics, semiotician, novelist, cultural critic, and political and social commentator. In English, he is best known for his popular ...
's ''
The Name of the Rose ''The Name of the Rose'' ( ) is the 1980 debut novel by Italian author Umberto Eco. It is a historical fiction, historical murder mystery set in an Italian monastery in the year 1327, and an intellectual mystery combining semiotics in fiction, ...
'' (1985).


Eberbach Abbey Foundation

With effect from 1 January 1998 the State of Hesse transferred the entire abbey complex into the ownership of a publicly owned charitable foundation, the ''Stiftung Kloster Eberbach'' ("Eberbach Abbey Foundation"), which has the goal of conserving the architectural and cultural monument by overseeing its appropriate, controlled and sustainable use as well as of maintaining the historical tradition of wine production. All wine production activities are bundeled since 2003 by Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach.


Description

The buildings date from the Romanesque, Gothic and
Baroque The Baroque ( , , ) is a Western Style (visual arts), style of Baroque architecture, architecture, Baroque music, music, Baroque dance, dance, Baroque painting, painting, Baroque sculpture, sculpture, poetry, and other arts that flourished from ...
periods. A property list, the ''Oculus Memoriae'', survives from as early as the year 1211, giving detailed information on the possessions and premises of the abbey complex. It was edited and published 1981–1987.Heinrich Meyer zu Ermgassen: "Der Oculus Memorie, ein Güterverzeichnis von 1211 aus Kloster Eberbach im Rheingau", Historischen Kommission für Nassau, Wiesbaden 1970 (Band 31). A phil. diss. (Dissertationsschrift) part 1, introduction and analysis of the source: "Teil 1. Einführung und quellenkritische Untersuchungen", 1981, ; part 2, edition: "Teil 2. Edition", 1984, ; part 3, index: "Teil 3. Index zur Edition", 1987, . The buildings include: * The abbey church, a three-aisled Romanesque
basilica In Ancient Roman architecture, a basilica (Greek Basiliké) was a large public building with multiple functions that was typically built alongside the town's forum. The basilica was in the Latin West equivalent to a stoa in the Greek Eas ...
with transept, containing the tombs of some of the Archbishops of Mainz * The cloisters, the south side of which is Gothic, the north side partly Gothic and partly Romanesque, and the remainder a 19th-century restoration * The chapter room, a late Gothic square room with a central pillar, restored with ceiling and wall paintings * The ''Fraternei'', an early Gothic room with heavy vaulting, used since the Middle Ages as a wine cellar. It is also known as the ''Cabinetkeller'', which is the origin of the use of the term ''
Kabinett Kabinett (literal meaning: cabinet), or sometimes Kabinettwein (literal meaning: a wine set aside in a cabinet), is a German language wine term for a wine which is made from fully ripened grapes of the main harvest, typically picked in Septembe ...
'' as a quality description of German wine. * The ''Dormitorium'' (dormitory), an early Gothic room about 70 metres long containing vaulting and short columns with sculptured capitals, and one of the few such rooms of this size and quality remaining in Europe * The north wing, refurbished in the 18th century and containing the refectory, with a Baroque stucco ceiling by Daniel Schenk. It replaced the earlier Gothic refectory to the north * The west wing, accommodating the library, where the abbey museum was set up in 1995. This contains inter alia the oldest surviving Cistercian glass window in Germany (of about 1180), the original capitals from the cloisters, now replaced by modern replicas, various sculptures, portraits of Bernard of Clairvaux and Baroque furnishings * In a separate building to the west of the monastic quarters, the "conversI building" or "lay-brothers' building", containing the lay-brothers' refectory (45 metres long) and the ''Laiendormitorium'' (lay-brothers' dormitory) (at over 80 metres long, the largest surviving Romanesque secular room in Europe), and attached to it a Romanesque wine-cellar and various small domestic buildings from the 17th century * Outside of the inner monastic precinct to the east, the hospital, service buildings and 18th and 19th century wine cellars


Wine production

The vineyards of Eberbach Abbey were, at 300 hectares, the largest in medieval Europe. Most of them are now the property of the state of Hesse and are run by the ''Hessische Staatsweingüter GmbH Kloster Eberbach'', which manages the largest connected area of wine production in Germany, comprising vineyards on the slopes of the Rhine Valley and on the '' Hessische Bergstrasse''. Of the 238 hectares which are under cultivation, three-quarters are planted with
Riesling Riesling ( , ) is a white grape variety that originated in the Rhine region. Riesling is an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet, and sparkling ...
, but
Chardonnay Chardonnay (, ; ) is a green-skinned grape variety used in the production of white wine. The variety originated in the Burgundy wine region of eastern France, but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from England to New Zealand. For new a ...
,
Pinot blanc Pinot blanc () or Pinot bianco is a white wine grape. It is a point genetic mutation of Pinot noir. Pinot noir is genetically unstable and will occasionally experience a point mutation in which a vine bears all black fruit except for one cane wh ...
,
Pinot gris Pinot gris, pinot grigio (, ), or ''Grauburgunder'' is a white wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. Thought to be a mutant clone of the pinot noir variety, it normally has a pinkish-gray hue, accounting for its name, but th ...
,
Pinot noir Pinot noir (), also known as Pinot nero, is a red-wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. The name also refers to wines created predominantly from Pinot noir grapes. The name is derived from the French language, French words fo ...
and
Dornfelder Dornfelder () is a dark-skinned variety of grape of Germany, German origin used for red wine.
are also grown. Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach is a member of the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP).


Burials

The church contains numerous interesting monuments and tombs, notable among them being those of: * , Archbishop of Mainz (died 1371) * Adolph II of Nassau (died 1475).


Today

The abbey has been the principal venue for the concerts of the Rheingau Musik Festival since 1988, with concerts in the Basilika (church), the Dormitorium, the Laiendormitorium and the Kreuzgang (cloisters). It has also been used for other concerts. The public areas can be viewed daily, either with or without guided tours. Rooms can be booked for conferences and events. Wine tastings for groups can also be booked, and twice a year there are wine auctions. On the night of 26 April 2005 the abbey suffered severe damage from flooding. This was due to heavy rain, which caused the Kisselbach river to overflow its banks, and the increased volume of water brought about the collapse of the 18th century storm drain under the abbey.


Restoration

Major restoration of the complex began in 1986, financed by the State of Hesse. Restoration of the interior of the basilica began in March 2018. The project is estimated to cost 130 Million Euro and planned to be completed in 2024. During restoration, new archeological finds have been made, which need to be preserved and documented. For example, parts of the Gothic floor and graves were found in the southern nave of the basilica.


References


Literature

* Wolfgang Einsingbach, Wolfgang Riedel: ''Kloster Eberbach''
DKV-Kunstführer
No. 267, 17. Auflage,
Deutscher Kunstverlag The Deutscher Kunstverlag (DKV) is an educational publishing house with offices in Berlin and Munich. The publisher specializes in books about art, cultural history, architecture Architecture is the art and technique of designing and bu ...
München Berlin 2007. (also available in English and French).


External links

*
Aerial views of Eberbach Abbey

Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach
vdp.de {{Authority control Cistercian monasteries in Germany Monasteries in Hesse 1136 establishments in Europe Christian monasteries established in the 1130s Buildings and structures in Rheingau-Taunus-Kreis Rheingau Monasteries used as prisons