
Milford Haven Waterway () is a natural
harbour in
Pembrokeshire
Pembrokeshire ( ; ) is a Principal areas of Wales, county in the South West Wales, south-west of Wales. It is bordered by Carmarthenshire to the east, Ceredigion to the northeast, and otherwise by the sea. Haverfordwest is the largest town and ...
,
Wales
Wales ( ) is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is bordered by the Irish Sea to the north and west, England to the England–Wales border, east, the Bristol Channel to the south, and the Celtic ...
. It is a
ria or drowned valley which was flooded at the end of the
last ice age.
The
Daugleddau estuary winds west to the sea. As one of the deepest natural harbours in the world, it is a busy
shipping channel, trafficked by
ferries from
Pembroke Dock to Ireland,
oil tanker
An oil tanker, also known as a petroleum tanker, is a ship designed for the bulk cargo, bulk transport of petroleum, oil or its products. There are two basic types of oil tankers: crude tankers and product tankers. Crude tankers move large quant ...
s and pleasure craft.
Admiral
Admiral is one of the highest ranks in many navies. In the Commonwealth nations and the United States, a "full" admiral is equivalent to a "full" general in the army or the air force. Admiral is ranked above vice admiral and below admiral of ...
Horatio Nelson, visiting the haven with the Hamiltons, described it as the next best natural harbour to
Trincomalee
Trincomalee (; , ; , ), historically known as Gokanna and Gokarna, is the administrative headquarters of the Trincomalee District and major resort port city of Eastern Province, Sri Lanka, Eastern Province, Sri Lanka. Located on the east coast o ...
in Ceylon (today's Sri Lanka) and "the finest port in Christendom".
[Wing Commander Ken McKay ''A Vision of Greatness: The History of Milford 1790–1990'', Brace Harvatt Associates, 1989. ] Much of the coastline of the Waterway is designated as a
Site of Special Scientific Interest
A Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in Great Britain, or an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) in the Isle of Man and Northern Ireland, is a conservation designation denoting a protected area in the United Kingdom and Isle ...
, listed as
Milford Haven Waterway SSSI.
History
Early history
From the 790s until the
Norman Invasion in 1066, the waterway was used occasionally by Vikings looking for shelter. During one visit in 854, the Viking Chieftain
Hubba wintered in the Haven with 23 ships, eventually lending his name to the district of
Hubberston. Evidence of metal working in the area was recently excavated, suggesting a level of industrialisation in the period 750–1100.

A Benedictine priory (
Pill Priory) was established at the head of Hubberston Pill in 1170, as a daughter house of
St Dogmaels Abbey. Built on virgin land, it stood alongside the priory on
Caldey Island as part of the
Tironian Order in
West Wales, and was dedicated to
St Budoc. Founded by Adam de Rupe, it stood until the Dissolution under
Henry VIII. In 1171
Henry II designated the area the rendezvous for his Irish expedition. An army of 400 warships, 500 knights and 4,000 men-at-arms gathered in the haven before sailing to
Waterford
Waterford ( ) is a City status in Ireland, city in County Waterford in the South-East Region, Ireland, south-east of Ireland. It is located within the Provinces of Ireland, province of Munster. The city is situated at the head of Waterford H ...
, and on to
Dublin
Dublin is the capital and largest city of Republic of Ireland, Ireland. Situated on Dublin Bay at the mouth of the River Liffey, it is in the Provinces of Ireland, province of Leinster, and is bordered on the south by the Dublin Mountains, pa ...
, which marked the first time an English king had stood on Irish soil, and the beginning of
Henry's invasion of Ireland.
St Thomas a Becket chapel was dedicated in 1180, a structure which looked out over the Haven from the north shore of the town. In later years it was used as a beacon for sailors in foul weather,
[McKay & Springer. ''Milford Haven Waterway & Town'', Tempus Publishing Ltd, 1999. ] and ultimately as a pig sty, until it was reconsecrated in the 20th century.

In his play, ''
Cymbeline'' Act 3, Scene 2 (1611),
Shakespeare
William Shakespeare ( 23 April 1564 – 23 April 1616) was an English playwright, poet and actor. He is widely regarded as the greatest writer in the English language and the world's pre-eminent dramatist. He is often called England's natio ...
remarks:
By 1590, two forts had been constructed to defend the entrance to the haven.
George Owen of Henllys, in his ''Description of Penbrokshire'', claimed in 1603 that Milford Haven was the most famous port of Christendom. The area however was a source of anxiety for the Tudor monarchy. Its location exposed it to attacks from Ireland, potentially leading to an invasion of England via Wales. In 1405, the French landed in force having left
Brest in July with more than twenty-eight hundred knights and men-at-arms led by
Jean II de Rieux, the
Marshal of France
Marshal of France (, plural ') is a French military distinction, rather than a military rank, that is awarded to General officer, generals for exceptional achievements. The title has been awarded since 1185, though briefly abolished (1793–1804) ...
, to support
Owain Glyndŵr's rebellion.
In April 1603,
Martin Pring used the Haven as his departure point for his exploratory voyage to
Virginia
Virginia, officially the Commonwealth of Virginia, is a U.S. state, state in the Southeastern United States, Southeastern and Mid-Atlantic (United States), Mid-Atlantic regions of the United States between the East Coast of the United States ...
. The land comprising the site of Milford, the Manor of Hubberston and Pill, was acquired by the Barlow family following the
dissolution of the monasteries in the mid-16th century. It acquired an additional strategic importance in the 17th century as a
Royalist military base.
Charles I ordered a fort to be built at
Pill by Royalist forces and completed in 1643 to prevent Parliamentarian forces from landing at
Pembroke Castle and to protect Royalist forces landing from Ireland. On 23 February 1644, a Parliamentarian force led by
Rowland Laugharne crossed the Haven and landed at Pill. The fort was gunned from both land and water, and a garrison was placed in
Steynton church to prevent a
Royalist attack from the garrison at
Haverfordwest. The fort was eventually surrendered, and quickly taken, along with St Thomas a Becket chapel. Just five years later in 1649 Milford Haven was again the site of Parliamentarian interest when it was chosen as the disembarkation site for
Oliver Cromwell
Oliver Cromwell (25 April 15993 September 1658) was an English statesman, politician and soldier, widely regarded as one of the most important figures in British history. He came to prominence during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms, initially ...
's
Invasion of Ireland. Cromwell arrived in the Haven on 4 August, meeting
George Monck, before Cromwell and over a hundred crafts left for Dublin on 15 August.
By the late 18th century, the two creeks which would delimit the future town of Milford's boundaries to the east and west, namely
Hakin and Castle Pill, were being used as ports for ships to load and unload coal, corn and limestone., A ferry service to Ireland operated from Hakin around the start of the 19th century, although this ceased in the early 19th century.
Although surrounding settlements at
Steynton,
Thornton, Priory, Liddeston and
Hubberston/Hakin were established, they were little more than hamlets. The only man-made structures on the future site of Milford were the medieval chapel, and Summer Hill Farm, and its accompanying cottages.
Landscape and history

Parts of the Haven are within the
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park () is a National Parks of England and Wales, national park along the Pembrokeshire coast in west Wales.
It was established as a National Park in 1952. It is one of the three National parks of Wales, the others ...
. The northern side is within the Preseli Environmentally Sensitive Area. The area includes: Angle Bay, Carew and Cresswell Rivers, Cosheston Pill,
Daugleddau, Gann Estuary,
Pembroke River, Pwllcrochan Flats and West Williamston Quarries (
Sites of Special Scientific Interest); and the towns of
Carew,
Haverfordwest,
Llangwm,
Milford Haven
Milford Haven ( ) is a town and community (Wales), community in Pembrokeshire, Wales. It is on the north side of the Milford Haven Waterway, an estuary forming a natural harbour that has been used as a port since the Middle Ages.
The town was ...
,
Neyland and
Pembroke, and the
Pembroke Dock (Royal Dockyard) Conservation Areas.
The
littoral landscape of Milford Haven shows evidence of maritime conquest, settlement, commerce, fishing and defence from the 11th century to the 20th century.
Iron Age
The Iron Age () is the final epoch of the three historical Metal Ages, after the Chalcolithic and Bronze Age. It has also been considered as the final age of the three-age division starting with prehistory (before recorded history) and progre ...
promontory forts are sited on several of the headlands at the entrance and along the course of the Haven and the Daugleddau.
Early medieval
The Early Middle Ages (or early medieval period), sometimes controversially referred to as the Dark Ages, is typically regarded by historians as lasting from the late 5th to the 10th century. They marked the start of the Middle Ages of Europ ...
, Christian and
Viking sites are evidenced by place-names, documentary and
epigraphic evidence, such as Early Christian Inscribed Stone monuments. The
Norman conquest
The Norman Conquest (or the Conquest) was the 11th-century invasion and occupation of England by an army made up of thousands of Normans, Norman, French people, French, Flemish people, Flemish, and Bretons, Breton troops, all led by the Du ...
, achieved by coastally sited castle boroughs, is still obvious at Pembroke, at Haverfordwest, and at Carew. Carew did not develop into a borough, but excavations have shown that a
Dark Age stronghold and possible
Romano-British
The Romano-British culture arose in Britain under the Roman Empire following the Roman conquest in AD 43 and the creation of the province of Britannia. It arose as a fusion of the imported Roman culture with that of the indigenous Britons, ...
site preceded the Norman castle.
Around the start of the 19th century, two new towns were constructed: Milford in 1790 by
Sir William Hamilton, and Pembroke Dock in 1802 as the site for a new
Royal Naval Dockyard. Both towns have regular planned layouts, both have experienced a history of boom and slump in shipbuilding, fishing and as railheads and ocean terminals.
These two towns, which could handle the larger vessels then entering service, concentrated trade that had previously been dispersed at quays, jetties and landing places and small settlements such as
Pennar,
Lawrenny,
Landshipping and
Cosheston further up river.
These small ports served the coal mines of the
Pembrokeshire Coalfield
The Pembrokeshire Coalfield in West Wales is one of the smallest Great Britain, British coalfields, but continuously worked from the 14th to 20th centuries. The main coalfield extends across south Pembrokeshire from Saundersfoot on Carmarthen Bay w ...
located on both shores of the Daugleddau, and also the large limestone quarries at West Williamston. The Daugleddau ports flourished in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, but continued to work through the 19th century by changing to using barges to tranship cargoes down river to bigger vessels at the mid-Haven ports.
In the late 19th century, concerns about the potential threat posed by the French Navy prompted the construction of a number of
Palmerston Forts
The Palmerston Forts are a group of forts and associated structures around the coasts of the United Kingdom and Ireland.
The forts were built during the Victorian period on the recommendations of the 1860 Royal Commission on the Defence of the ...
at various strategically important coastal sites, including Milford Haven. Most of the forts are now disused.
The late 20th century brought the jetties, oil terminals and shore processing facilities of the oil and power industries. This industry reached its zenith in the 1970s when Middle Eastern supply difficulties forced oil transport to use ocean routes and
Very Large Crude Carriers for which the Haven, with its deep waters and westerly position, was particularly suited.
Port

Milford Haven is the largest port in Wales, and the third-largest port in the United Kingdom.
Shipping operations in Milford Haven are managed by the independent Milford Haven Port Authority as a trust port. The port authority has responsibility for managing Milford Docks, Milford Marina and Pembroke Port and Ferry Terminal. In 2012, it was announced that the Milford waterway was to be declared an
Enterprise Zone
An urban enterprise zone is an area in which policies to encourage economic growth and development are implemented. Urban enterprise zone policies generally offer tax concessions, infrastructure incentives, and reduced regulations to attract invest ...
by the coalition government, due to its importance to the energy sector.
Petrochemical industry
Milford Haven's association with the
petro-chemical industry started with the opening of the first
oil terminal
An oil terminal (also called a tank farm, tankfarm, oil installation or oil depot) is an industrial facility for the storage of oil, petroleum and petrochemical products, and from which these Petroleum product, products are transported to end u ...
and
oil refinery
An oil refinery or petroleum refinery is an industrial processes, industrial process Factory, plant where petroleum (crude oil) is transformed and refining, refined into products such as gasoline (petrol), diesel fuel, Bitumen, asphalt base, ...
in 1960; unfortunately this coincided with a serious oil-spill from ''Esso Portsmouth'', the first
oil tanker
An oil tanker, also known as a petroleum tanker, is a ship designed for the bulk cargo, bulk transport of petroleum, oil or its products. There are two basic types of oil tankers: crude tankers and product tankers. Crude tankers move large quant ...
to unload there. Since then, there have been numerous spills of varying magnitude, providing the port authority with a great deal of experience. Uniquely at the time, the harbourmaster instituted the principle of cleaning up first and allocating the blame (and the responsibility of paying for it) later. There are two large oil refineries nearby which represent one fifth of the United Kingdom's oil refining capacity.
In 1978 the tanker ''
Christos Bitas'' ran aground off the Haven, spilling a portion of its cargo of oil.
In 1984, a serious explosion on a tanker being repaired in the Haven resulted in three fatalities. In 1996, it was the location of the ''
Sea Empress'' oil spill, initially thought to be one of the most devastating oil tanker disasters the UK has ever seen. In the event, recovery has been surprisingly good, perhaps partly because of the very strong tides. The comparable ''
Torrey Canyon'' spill in 1968, a ship which had been heading to Milford Haven, affected shores further south around southern
Cornwall
Cornwall (; or ) is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in South West England. It is also one of the Celtic nations and the homeland of the Cornish people. The county is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, ...
and northern France, was actually far more damaging.
Liquefied natural gas
In light of the dwindling supplies of
North Sea
The North Sea lies between Great Britain, Denmark, Norway, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, and France. A sea on the European continental shelf, it connects to the Atlantic Ocean through the English Channel in the south and the Norwegian Se ...
gas, Milford Haven has become home to two new
LNG terminals which eventually could provide 25% of the UK's gas requirement. Under construction from 2006,
South Hook is based on the former
Esso refinery facility, while the Dragon LNG terminal is based on a
brownfield site of the
Gulf oil refinery, now also housing SEMLogistics chemicals. The regasified natural gas is fed through
National Grid plc
National Grid plc is a British multinational electricity and gas utility company headquartered in London, England. Its principal activities are in the United Kingdom, where it owns and operates electricity and natural gas transmission networks ...
's
South Wales Gas Pipeline to the distribution point at Tirley,
Gloucestershire
Gloucestershire ( , ; abbreviated Glos.) is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in South West England. It is bordered by Herefordshire to the north-west, Worcestershire to the north, Warwickshire to the north-east, Oxfordshire ...
. The first vessel, the
Q-Flex-class ''
Tembek'' from
Qatar
Qatar, officially the State of Qatar, is a country in West Asia. It occupies the Geography of Qatar, Qatar Peninsula on the northeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula in the Middle East; it shares Qatar–Saudi Arabia border, its sole land b ...
, docked at South Hook on 20 March 2009. The first gas to the Dragon facility was delivered 14 July 2009.
Cruise ship terminal
The port authority started promoting Pembrokeshire as a cruise destination in 2003 and passenger numbers have steadily increased since then. In July 2008, the first
transatlantic liner, the
Maasdam arrived in Milford Haven.
Town
The town of Milford Haven was founded as a
whaling
Whaling is the hunting of whales for their products such as meat and blubber, which can be turned into a type of oil that was important in the Industrial Revolution. Whaling was practiced as an organized industry as early as 875 AD. By the 16t ...
center in the 18th century, and today the town's port is the fourth largest in the United Kingdom in terms of tonnage
[One Wales: Connecting the Nation – The Wales Transport Strategy Welsh Assembly Government, April 2008, page 29](_blank)
Retrieved 17 January 2010 and plays an important role in the United Kingdom's energy sector with several oil refineries and one of the biggest LNG terminals in the world. Milford Haven is the second largest settlement in Pembrokeshire, with a population of 13,100; though its community boundaries make it the most populous in the county, with 13,096 people.
[Settlement Populations, Pembrokeshire County Council 2001 Census](_blank)
Retrieved 17 January 2010 As a community, Milford Haven takes in the town of Milford Haven itself and the villages of
Hakin,
Hubberston,
Liddeston,
Steynton and
Thornton.
Power generation
As a first stage of a
wave power
Wave power is the capture of energy of wind waves to do useful mechanical work, work – for example, electricity generation, desalination, or pumping water. A machine that exploits wave power (physics), power is a wave energy converter (WEC).
W ...
plant, there will be some testing at West Dale Bay.
Contaminants
Organic and heavy metal chemical pollutants accumulating in variety of species including
seaweed
Seaweed, or macroalgae, refers to thousands of species of macroscopic, multicellular, marine algae. The term includes some types of ''Rhodophyta'' (red), '' Phaeophyta'' (brown) and ''Chlorophyta'' (green) macroalgae. Seaweed species such as ...
mussels
Mussel () is the common name used for members of several families of bivalve molluscs, from saltwater and freshwater habitats. These groups have in common a shell whose outline is elongated and asymmetrical compared with other edible clams, whic ...
,
bivalves
Bivalvia () or bivalves, in previous centuries referred to as the Lamellibranchiata and Pelecypoda, is a class of aquatic molluscs (marine and freshwater) that have laterally compressed soft bodies enclosed by a calcified exoskeleton consis ...
and
worm
Worms are many different distantly related bilateria, bilateral animals that typically have a long cylindrical tube-like body, no limb (anatomy), limbs, and usually no eyes.
Worms vary in size from microscopic to over in length for marine ...
s have been measured in Milford Haven Waterway.
This together with information on the sediment concentrations have been assessed in order to aid in the evaluation of the environmental quality of the
ria estuary.
References
Further reading
*''Oil pollution in a major oil port'', Capt. G. Dudley, in Ecological Effects of Oil Pollution (ed. E.B.Cowell), Inst. Petroleum, London, 1971.
External links
Milford Haven Port Authoritywww.geograph.co.uk : photos of Milford HavenCountryside Council for Wales Historic Landscape Map
{{Coord, 51.7, -5.113, display=title
Competent harbour authorities
Geography of Pembrokeshire
Ports and harbours of Wales
Transport in Pembrokeshire
Milford Haven
Bodies of water of Pembrokeshire