Dorothea Melis
   HOME

TheInfoList



OR:

Dorothea Melis (born Dorothea Voigt: 22 February 1938 – 29 June 2015) was a German fashion journalist.


Life


Early years

Dorothea Voigt was born in
Berlin Berlin ( ; ) is the Capital of Germany, capital and largest city of Germany, by both area and List of cities in Germany by population, population. With 3.7 million inhabitants, it has the List of cities in the European Union by population withi ...
. Her father worked as an architect. She grew up with her family in
Berlin Berlin ( ; ) is the Capital of Germany, capital and largest city of Germany, by both area and List of cities in Germany by population, population. With 3.7 million inhabitants, it has the List of cities in the European Union by population withi ...
's Weissensee quarter, ending up after the war in the
Soviet occupation zone The Soviet occupation zone in Germany ( or , ; ) was an area of Germany that was occupied by the Soviet Union as a communist area, established as a result of the Potsdam Agreement on 2 August 1945. On 7 October 1949 the German Democratic Republ ...
, which would be relaunched in October 1949 as the Soviet sponsored
German Democratic Republic East Germany, officially known as the German Democratic Republic (GDR), was a country in Central Europe from Foundation of East Germany, its formation on 7 October 1949 until German reunification, its reunification with West Germany (FRG) on ...
(East Germany). She studied fashion and design at the Berlin-Weißensee Visual and Applied Arts academy. At the end of the course students were required to submit a dissertation. Voigt completed her degree in 1960 with a dissertation that was savagely critical of
East Germany East Germany, officially known as the German Democratic Republic (GDR), was a country in Central Europe from Foundation of East Germany, its formation on 7 October 1949 until German reunification, its reunification with West Germany (FRG) on ...
's popular fashion magazine, "Sibylle" which had been founded in 1956, a few years earlier: she was repelled by the publication's staid fashions, its pathetic poses and its housewifely approach. Margot Pfannstiel, editor-in-chief at "Sibylle", became aware of Dorothea's dissertation and spotted an opportunity. The women met: "I've read your work: it's most interesting. If you know it all with such clarity, then start here. Do he fashion sectionyourself, and make it better" (''"Ich habe Ihre Arbeit gelesen, ist ja interessant. Wenn Sie alles so genau wissen, dann fangen Sie mal hier an. Und machen das mal, und zwar besser."'') In 1961 the 23-year-old was recruited to the magazine, mandated to create a modern socialist image for women.


''Sibylle''

Dorothea Voigt married the graphic artist and illustrator Axel Bertram in 1957. By the time the marriage ended in 1961 it had produced
a son ''A Son'', also known as ''Bik Eneich: Un fils'' (a combination of the original Arabic and French titles: ; ) is a 2019 film directed by Mehdi Barsaoui in his feature film debut and co-produced between France, Lebanon, Tunisia and Qatar. Starring ...
who stayed with his mother after the parents parted. By the time she died Dorothea would also be a grandmother. It was as Dorothea Bertram that she headed up '' Sibylles fashion department between 1961 and 1970. Recruiting a new generation of photographers such as, most notably, Arno Fischer,
Günter Rössler Günter Rössler (6 January 1926 – 31 December 2012) was a German photographer who made a name for himself especially in the field of nude art photography. A pioneer of nude photography in East Germany and notable fashion photographer, Rössle ...
and Roger Melis, she worked to define a new concept in fashion, based around the theme of a modern, self-assured, educated working woman, integrated into contemporary culture. Sources credit her with having introduced the
mini-skirt A miniskirt (or mini-skirt, mini skirt, or mini) is a skirt with its hemline well above the knees, generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than below the buttocks; and a dress with such a hemline is called a minidress or a miniskirt ...
to the German Democratic Republic in 1967. Despite her iconic status the head of fashion at Easy Germany's fashion magazine was still subject to some of the usual constraints. When she turned up to work wearing an elegant pair of
jeans Jeans are a type of trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth. Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of trousers, called "blue jeans", with the addition of copper pocket rivets added by Jacob W. Davis in 1871 and patented by ...
, the editor in chief asked her firmly not to wear "these American pants ... for work" (''"... bitte nicht im Betrieb, mit diesen amerikanischen Hosen"''). Towards the end of the decade there was a change at the top of ''Sibylle'', when Margot Pfannstiel moved on, succeeded as editor in chief by Yvonne Freyer, "a party loyalist", in October 1968. Ingeburg Lange, as chair of Women's Commission of the powerful Party Central Committee (''"Frauenkommission des Zentralkomitees"'') was by now speaking out in favour of a switch to a "more popular approach" for the magazine, and the pages increasingly prioritised "arts and crafts" and folkloric themes. The "advice column" section expanded. As the fashion photographer Ute Mahler later recalled, there was nothing so simple as state censorship. "We always did what we wanted. The trouble came afterwards, if we had not aligned our ideas of beauty and fashion with those of the Women's Commission of the Central Committee." The result was a growing level of self-censorship and frustration. Dorothea Bertram left "Sibylle" in 1970.


VEB Exquisit

Dorothea Bertram was a huge admirer of the work of the fashion photographer Roger Melis, and in 1970 the two of them were married. Between 1970 and 1990 – now with her considerable reputation secured in the East German fashion world – Dorothea Melis worked for the upmarket clothing retail chain VEB Exquisit. The business had been established in 1962 by order of the
Council of Ministers Council of Ministers is a traditional name given to the supreme Executive (government), executive organ in some governments. It is usually equivalent to the term Cabinet (government), cabinet. The term Council of State is a similar name that also m ...
, through a conviction, they said, that East German citizens should be able to obtain luxury goods without being forced to involve themselves (illegally) in using western money (known colloquially as ''"Westgeld"''). Dorothea Melis was responsible for press and public relations. This also involved organising fashion shows. The company sold high-quality modern clothing, much of it imported, which was differentiated from more mainstream "off-the-peg" fashion products through its sophisticated design concepts and its insistence on high-quality manufacturing. In some ways the business expanded beyond its original niche: sources claim that at its peak, with 44 outlets, it accounted for almost 30% of East Germany's clothing sales by value.


Beyond the change

After several years during which the winds of
Glasnost ''Glasnost'' ( ; , ) is a concept relating to openness and transparency. It has several general and specific meanings, including a policy of maximum openness in the activities of state institutions and freedom of information and the inadmissi ...
blowing across from, of all places,
Moscow Moscow is the Capital city, capital and List of cities and towns in Russia by population, largest city of Russia, standing on the Moskva (river), Moskva River in Central Russia. It has a population estimated at over 13 million residents with ...
, found a growing resonance in East German cities, in November 1989 street protestors broke through the
Berlin Wall The Berlin Wall (, ) was a guarded concrete Separation barrier, barrier that encircled West Berlin from 1961 to 1989, separating it from East Berlin and the East Germany, German Democratic Republic (GDR; East Germany). Construction of the B ...
. It very quickly became obvious that the Soviet troops had received no instructions to intervene, as they had back in
1953 Events January * January 6 – The Asian Socialist Conference opens in Rangoon, Burma. * January 12 – Estonian émigrés found a Estonian government-in-exile, government-in-exile in Oslo. * January 14 ** Marshal Josip Broz Tito ...
, and the self-confidence of the political establishment rapidly crumbled. A succession of further events led, in March 1990, the East Germany's first (and, as matters turned out, last) free election.
reunification A political union is a type of political entity which is composed of, or created from, smaller politics or the process which achieves this. These smaller polities are usually called federated states and federal territories in a federal govern ...
took place a few months later, formally in October 1990. VEB Exquisit failed to compete effectively with western retailers from, which quickly bought up most of its well positioned city centre retail outlets. Some of those who had worked for it proved themselves more adaptable to the changing times, however. Dorothea Melis's East German reputation initially counted for little in the new Germany, but it soon became obvious that not everyone wanted to forget the "socialist" version of Germany. In 1992 the first edition of Dorothea Melis' book "Sibylle. Modefotografien 1962–1994" appeared, and very quickly became acknowledged as the standard work on Fashion Photography in the German Democratic Republic. She was able to organise exhibitions of the work of photographers who had worked with her for "Sibylle", such as Sibylle Bergemann. She gave lectures on fashion in the German Democratic Republic at the art colleges, wrote more books about the past and wryly observed the present. Dorothea Melis was predeceased by her second husband. In June 2015 she herself died, on a Monday, in Berlin aged 77, following a long illness.


Output (selection)

* ''Sibylle. Modefotografie aus drei Jahrzehnten DDR.'' Verlag Schwarzkopf & Schwarzkopf, Berlin 1998. * ''Die Berlinerin. Fotografien und Geschichten.'' Verlag Schwarzkopf & Schwarzkopf, Berlin 2000. * ''Sibylle. Modefotografien 1962–1994.'' Lehmstedt Verlag, Leipzig 2010.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Melis, Dorothea East German journalists 20th-century German women journalists East German women Fashion journalists People from Pankow 1938 births 2015 deaths Journalists from Berlin People from East Berlin