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Deborah Milner (born 1964) is a British fashion designer, active since the 1990s. Since 2000, she has focused on ecologically aware design, founding her ecological couture line, Ecoture, in 2005. In the early 2010s, she was head of the
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen (brand), Alexander McQueen label in 1992 and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His ac ...
couture studio.


Career


1990s

Milner studied at
Central Saint Martins Central Saint Martins is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London, a public art university in London, England. The college offers full-time courses at foundation, undergraduate and postgraduate levels, and a variety of short ...
and the
Royal College of Art The Royal College of Art (RCA) is a public university, public research university in London, United Kingdom, with campuses in South Kensington, Battersea and White City, London, White City. It is the only entirely postgraduate art and design uni ...
. Whilst she gained a reputation among fashion insiders as a creative designer who used unusual materials, including a skirt made from
film negative In photography, a negative is an image, usually on a strip or sheet of transparent plastic film, in which the lightest areas of the photographed subject appear darkest and the darkest areas appear lightest. This reversed order occurs because th ...
s and garments using wire and steel mesh filters, and was recognised for the superb cut of her clothing, she was not immediately successful. Eventually, whilst sharing a studio with
Philip Treacy Philip Anthony Treacy (born 26 May 1967) is an Irish haute couture Hatmaking, milliner, or hat designer, who has been mostly based in London for his career, and who was described by ''Vogue (magazine), Vogue'' magazine as "perhaps the greatest ...
, Milner became principally a designer of wedding dresses. Her highest-profile wedding dress was a 1997 beaded lace gown worn by
Estelle Skornik Estelle Skornik (born 4 July 1971 in Paris) is a French actress, known in the United Kingdom for playing " Nicole" alongside Max Douchin ("Papa") in a range of Renault Clio advertisements. Family Her ancestors were Polish Jews, and her grandfa ...
as 'Nicole' in the final instalment of the Papa & Nicole advertisements for
Renault Renault S.A., commonly referred to as Groupe Renault ( , , , also known as the Renault Group in English), is a French Multinational corporation, multinational Automotive industry, automobile manufacturer established in 1899. The company curr ...
, which was estimated to have been seem by 23 million viewers. Renault subsequently donated the dress and accessories to the
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (abbreviated V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and named after Queen ...
. Another of Milner's wedding dresses, an ecclesiastical silk coatdress worn in 1998 by Selina Blow with a huge golden headdress by Treacy, was featured in the Museum's major Wedding Dress exhibition in 2014. In 1997, a purple velvet Milner evening coat was chosen by
Isabella Blow Isabella Blow (née Delves Broughton; 19 November 1958 – 7 May 2007) was an English magazine editor. She was mentor to Philip Treacy, and is credited with discovering the models Stella Tennant and Sophie Dahl, and fashion designer Alexander ...
as part of her selection of garments representing 1997 in the
Fashion Museum, Bath The Fashion Museum (known before 2007 as the Museum of Costume) was housed in the Assembly Rooms in Bath, Somerset, England. The collection was started by Doris Langley Moore, who gave her collection of costumes to the city of Bath in 1963. T ...
's Dress of the Year collection, alongside designs by Treacy,
Hussein Chalayan Hussein Chalayan, (; ; born 12 August 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Designer of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006. Chalayan is currently teaching at HTW Berlin. Ea ...
,
Julien MacDonald Julien Macdonald OBE (born 19 March 1971) is a British fashion designer from Merthyr Tydfil, Wales, who has appeared as judge on the television programme, ''Britain & Ireland's Next Top Model''. In 2001, he was named " British Fashion Designer ...
, and
Lainey Keogh Lainey Keogh (born 1957) is an Irish fashion designer specialising in knitwear. Early life Born in 1957 in Oldtown, County Dublin, Ireland, Keogh grew up on a farm. She studied microbiology, and started out as a lab technician before deciding to ...
. Blow also owned a red velvet coat by Milner that she wore in a photograph that would later be the lead image for a posthumous exhibition of her wardrobe at
Somerset House Somerset House is a large neoclassical architecture, neoclassical building complex situated on the south side of the Strand, London, Strand in central London, overlooking the River Thames, just east of Waterloo Bridge. The Georgian era quadran ...
in 2013.
Daphne Guinness Daphne Diana Joan Susanna Guinness (born 9 November 1967) is an English fashion designer, socialite, actress, film producer, and musician. Early life Her father is Jonathan Guinness, 3rd Baron Moyne, the eldest son of Diana Mitford and Bryan ...
, Blow's friend and organiser of the exhibition, told ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** '' Vogue Adria'', a fashion magazine for former Yugoslav countries ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ' ...
'' that she thought the coat "epitomised Isabella, somehow," hence the decision to use it as the main publicity image.
Women's Wear Daily ''Women's Wear Daily'' (also known as ''WWD'') is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". Horyn, Cathy"Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge" ''The New York Times''. (August 20, 1999). It provides i ...
declared the coat one of the highlights of the Blow exhibition. In 1998, Milner designed a
Dior Christian Dior SE (), commonly known as Dior, is a French Multinational corporation, multinational luxury goods company that is controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH. , Dior controlled around 42% of ...
-inspired purple corset-bodice dress for
Helena Bonham Carter Helena Bonham Carter (born 26 May 1966) is an English actress. Known for her roles in Blockbuster (entertainment), blockbusters and independent films, particularly period dramas, List of awards and nominations received by Helena Bonham Carter ...
to wear to the
Oscars The Academy Awards, commonly known as the Oscars, are awards for artistic and technical merit in film. They are presented annually by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS) in the United States in recognition of excellence i ...
. Bonham Carter later commented "I've never before attached that much importance to what I wear. Now it's monumental," after having her dress praised by ''
Newsday ''Newsday'' is a daily newspaper in the United States primarily serving Nassau and Suffolk counties on Long Island, although it is also sold throughout the New York metropolitan area. The slogan of the newspaper is "Newsday, Your Eye on LI" ...
'' and ''
Vogue Vogue may refer to: Business * ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine ** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine ** '' Vogue Adria'', a fashion magazine for former Yugoslav countries ** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine ** ' ...
''. That same year,
Donatella Versace Donatella Francesca Versace (; born 2 May 1955), sometimes simply referred to mononymously as Donatella, is an Italian fashion designer, businesswoman, socialite, and model. She is the sister of Gianni Versace, founder of the luxury fashion com ...
signed Milner up to head up a design studio at
Versace Gianni Versace S.r.l. (), usually referred to as Versace ( ), is an Italian luxury elite fashion company founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The company produces Italian-made ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as '' haute couture'' under it ...
. The Victoria & Albert Museum showed her work in 1999 as part of the ''Fashion in Motion'' project, describing Milner as a 'leading British designer' in accompanying publicity.


2000s

Growing "disillusioned" with fashion design, Milner took a career break in 2000, and lived in Brazil for a while, while trying to decide how she could become involved in environmental and social issues, eventually realising that she could combine these with her fashion design skills. In 2005, with the financial backing of
Aveda Aveda Corporation ( ) is an American cosmetics company founded by Horst Rechelbacher, now owned by Estée Lauder Companies, and headquartered in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Aveda manufactures skin and body care, cosmetics, perfume (internally call ...
, Milner launched Ecoture, dedicated to the development of couture fashions that combined high end style with sustainability. The first Ecouture show was presented in September 2006 at
London Fashion Week London Fashion Week (LFW) is a clothing trade show that takes place in London, England, twice a year, in June and September. Showcasing over 250 designers to a global audience of influential media and retailers, it is one of the 'Big Four' fash ...
. It presented clothes and accessories made using left-over fabric from other manufacturers, a 'lace' dress where old plastic bags were tied together and melted using heat to create a lacy pattern, textiles dyed using natural dyes and accessories made from wood from sustainable sources. In 2011 Milner designed a bright blue dress for
Tara Palmer-Tomkinson Tara Claire Palmer-Tomkinson (23 December 1971 – 8 February 2017) was an English socialite and television personality. She appeared in several television shows, including the reality programme ''I'm a Celebrity...Get Me Out of Here! (British ...
to wear to the
wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton The wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton took place on Friday, 29 April 2011 at Westminster Abbey in London, England. William was second in the line of succession to the British throne at the time, later becoming heir apparent. T ...
. The outfit drew media attention, with ''The Telegraph'' praising it and the matching Treacy hat and
Nicholas Kirkwood Nicholas Matthew Schneidau Kirkwood (born July 1980) is a British footwear designer. He lives in Bethnal Green, London. Early life Nicholas Matthew Schneidau Kirkwood was born in July 1980. He learned the craft of shoemaking at London-based Cordw ...
shoes as chic, but criticising the 'matchy-matchy' nature of the additional accessories. As of 2012-13, Milner is head of the Alexander McQueen couture studio under
Sarah Burton Sarah Jane Burton (née Heard; born 1974) is an English fashion designer. She worked at the Alexander McQueen (brand), Alexander McQueen fashion house from 1997 through 2023, spending her last 13 years at the company as its creative director. ...
's direction, and had previously collaborated with
Alexander McQueen Lee Alexander McQueen (17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010) was a British fashion designer and couturier. He founded his own Alexander McQueen (brand), Alexander McQueen label in 1992 and was chief designer at Givenchy from 1996 to 2001. His ac ...
before his death.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Milner, Deborah 1964 births Living people Alumni of Central Saint Martins Alumni of the Royal College of Art British fashion designers Wedding dress designers