Dalgarnock Village, Church And Parish
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Dalgarnock, Dalgarno, Dalgarnoc was an ancient parish and a once considerable sized village in the Nithsdale area of
Dumfries and Galloway Dumfries and Galloway (; ) is one of the 32 unitary council areas of Scotland, located in the western part of the Southern Uplands. It is bordered by East Ayrshire, South Ayrshire, and South Lanarkshire to the north; Scottish Borders to the no ...
,
Scotland Scotland is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It contains nearly one-third of the United Kingdom's land area, consisting of the northern part of the island of Great Britain and more than 790 adjac ...
, south of
Sanquhar Sanquhar (, ) is a town on the River Nith in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, north of Thornhill and west of Moffat. It is a former Royal Burgh. It is notable for its tiny post office, established in 1712 and considered the oldest working p ...
and north of
Dumfries Dumfries ( ; ; from ) is a market town and former royal burgh in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, near the mouth of the River Nith on the Solway Firth, from the Anglo-Scottish border. Dumfries is the county town of the Counties of Scotland, ...
that enclosed the parish of Closeburn but was annexed to Closeburn in 1606 following the Reformation, separated again in 1648 and finally re-united in 1697, as part of the process that established the Presbyterian Church of Scotland. It was a burgh of regality bordering the
River Nith The River Nith (; Common Brittonic: ''Nowios'') is a river in south-west Scotland. The Nith rises in the Carsphairn hills of East Ayrshire, between Prickeny Hill and Enoch Hill, east of Dalmellington. For the majority of its course it flows ...
and Cample Water and held a popular market-tryst or fair from medieval times until 1601 when the
Earl of Queensberry Earl () is a rank of the nobility in the United Kingdom. In modern Britain, an earl is a member of the peerage, ranking below a marquess and above a viscount. A feminine form of ''earl'' never developed; instead, ''countess'' is used. The titl ...
had them transferred to Thornhill, commemorated in song by
Robert Burns Robert Burns (25 January 1759 – 21 July 1796), also known familiarly as Rabbie Burns, was a Scottish poet and lyricist. He is widely regarded as the List of national poets, national poet of Scotland and is celebrated worldwide. He is the be ...
, shortly before its demise and now only a remote churchyard remains at a once busy site.


History

No houses remained in the 1790s according to the 'Statistical Account for Closeburn' of the once sizeable village, however its location was still familiar to locals in the 1950s and some traces of it could be made out to the east of the churchyard in a pasture centred on NX 878 936. A ford ran across the
River Nith The River Nith (; Common Brittonic: ''Nowios'') is a river in south-west Scotland. The Nith rises in the Carsphairn hills of East Ayrshire, between Prickeny Hill and Enoch Hill, east of Dalmellington. For the majority of its course it flows ...
towards Keir Mill via Blawplain farm from Dalgarnock that was out of use by 1899. The nearby town of Thornhill was initially named 'New Dalgarnock' by the earl when only a small village, having been built in 1717 on the then
Earl of Queensberry Earl () is a rank of the nobility in the United Kingdom. In modern Britain, an earl is a member of the peerage, ranking below a marquess and above a viscount. A feminine form of ''earl'' never developed; instead, ''countess'' is used. The titl ...
's Estate lands, straddling the main coach road linking
Dumfries Dumfries ( ; ; from ) is a market town and former royal burgh in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, near the mouth of the River Nith on the Solway Firth, from the Anglo-Scottish border. Dumfries is the county town of the Counties of Scotland, ...
to
Glasgow Glasgow is the Cities of Scotland, most populous city in Scotland, located on the banks of the River Clyde in Strathclyde, west central Scotland. It is the List of cities in the United Kingdom, third-most-populous city in the United Kingdom ...
.


The old church and churchyard

Dalgarnock church (NX 8758 9362) stood about a mile south of Thornhill, dedicated to St Michael and granted to
Holyrood Abbey Holyrood Abbey is a ruined abbey of the Canons Regular in Edinburgh, Scotland. The abbey was founded in 1128 by David I of Scotland. During the 15th century, the abbey guesthouse was developed into a List of British royal residences, royal r ...
by Edgar, son of Duvenald of Strathnith and confirmed by
William the Lion William the Lion (), sometimes styled William I (; ) and also known by the nickname ; e.g. Annals of Ulster, s.a. 1214.6; Annals of Loch Cé, s.a. 1213.10. ( 1142 – 4 December 1214), reigned as King of Alba from 1165 to 1214. His almost 49 ...
. Edgar was the grandson of Donegal, a Scots-Irish chief, during the reign of
David I David I may refer to: * David I, Caucasian Albanian Catholicos c. 399 * David I of Armenia, Catholicos of Armenia (728–741) * David I Kuropalates of Georgia (died 881) * David I Anhoghin, king of Lori (ruled 989–1048) * David I of Scotland ...
(died 1153) who is said to have held Nithsdale or Strathnith with a castle at the site of the later
Morton Castle Morton Castle is located by an artificial loch in the hills above River Nith, Nithsdale, in Dumfries and Galloway, south-west Scotland. It lies north-east of Thornhill, Dumfries and Galloway, Thornhill, and once formed part of a chain of castles ...
near
Durisdeer Durisdeer is a small village in Dumfries and Galloway, south-west Scotland, and in the historic county of Dumfries-shire. It lies north of Thornhill, above the Carron Water, a tributary of the Nith. History A Roman road once passed through ...
. The monks held the church until the reformation. The location may have been chosen owing to the rich lands of the holm bordering the
River Nith The River Nith (; Common Brittonic: ''Nowios'') is a river in south-west Scotland. The Nith rises in the Carsphairn hills of East Ayrshire, between Prickeny Hill and Enoch Hill, east of Dalmellington. For the majority of its course it flows ...
. A person just recorded as Andrew is recorded in 1296 as the vicar of Dalgarnock, having sworn fealty to the English king Edward I, despite which in 1296 he had to petition the Sheriff of Dumfries to return the church to him. The church was confirmed to the
Holyrood Abbey Holyrood Abbey is a ruined abbey of the Canons Regular in Edinburgh, Scotland. The abbey was founded in 1128 by David I of Scotland. During the 15th century, the abbey guesthouse was developed into a List of British royal residences, royal r ...
monks by William, Bishop of Glasgow, in 1240, by John Lindsay, Bishop of Glasgow in 1322-3 and by the Pope. From 1568 to 1585 the reader at the church was James Williamson who received a stipend and the use of the church lands of Kirkbog and Kirkland, the glebe of four and a half acres originally being located near Trigony. In 1593 Richard Brown served the church, followed by David Rogers in 1601 and Alexander Fleming in 1612. The income from the church went to the
Bishop of Edinburgh The Bishop of Edinburgh, or sometimes the Lord Bishop of Edinburgh, is the Ordinary (officer), ordinary of the Scottish Episcopal Church, Scottish Episcopal Diocese of Edinburgh. Prior to the Reformation, Edinburgh was part of the Diocese of St ...
and after the reformation were used to help maintain
Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle is a historic castle in Edinburgh, Scotland. It stands on Castle Rock (Edinburgh), Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age. There has been a royal castle on the rock since the reign of Malcol ...
. After the Reformation Dalgarnock was granted to Sir James Douglas of
Drumlanrig Drumlanrig (Scottish Gaelic: ''Druim Lannraig'') is a settlement in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, which is best known for nearby Drumlanrig Castle. The earliest record for Drumlanrig is from 1384, spelled ''Drumlangryg''. There are a number ...
who then passed it in 1594 to Thomas Kirkpatrick of Closeburn. In 1621 King Charles I granted it to Sir John Spotiswoode, however in 1633 the king established the bishopric of Edinburgh and granted them the church of Dalgarnock, with the manse, glebe, church lands and tithes, with a number of other churches which had belonged to the monastery of
Holyrood Abbey Holyrood Abbey is a ruined abbey of the Canons Regular in Edinburgh, Scotland. The abbey was founded in 1128 by David I of Scotland. During the 15th century, the abbey guesthouse was developed into a List of British royal residences, royal r ...
. Kirkpatrick of Closeburn obtained the church and it stayed with that family until 1783 when it was sold to Menteth of Closeburn who in 1852 sold it to Douglas Baird, Esq., however he died in 1854 and is buried in Closeburn parish church cemetery with his wife Charlotte who died in 1864. Annexed to Closeburn in 1606, the church fell out of use in the 18th century when all services were transferred to Closeburn and has entirely disappeared due to robbing for the building of field dykes and near by houses with only the font surviving, preserved in the porch of Closeburn Church at first and then returned to Dalgarnock where it has been given a stand made from sections of possibly pre-reformation gravestone sections. Some ruins remained until the early 1800s. The parish was disjoined in 1648 and rejoined again in 1697. The Category B Listed churchyard contains several 17th and 18th century gravestones and a collective memorial to the
Covenanter Covenanters were members of a 17th-century Scottish religious and political movement, who supported a Presbyterian Church of Scotland and the primacy of its leaders in religious affairs. It originated in disputes with James VI and his son C ...
martyrs of the Nithsdale district. A cross's socket stone stood with a rectangular slot to the left of the churchyard entrance in 1950, however although this had been removed by the 1970s it was present again in 2017. One of the older graves is that of Nicola McMillan, wife of William Ferguson who died aged thirty in 1754, however a grave dated 1694 stands against the west wall with the village name, given as Dalgarnock. Burials were still taking place in the 1850s. A family burial plot of the Menteths of Closeburn dominates part of the burial ground. The oldest recorded grave is that of 'Iohn Smith Barnhil D Ian 1607'. A very unusual grave, given the Presbyterian links, is that of John Nivison, a surgeon who died in 1732, aged 42. His gravestone also commemorates his wife and four of his children. In addition to the traditional elements a figure is carved with arms that form part of a
Green Man The Green Man, also known as a foliate head, is a motif in architecture and art, of a face made of, or completely surrounded by, foliage, which normally spreads out from the centre of the face. Apart from a purely decorative function, the Green ...
on the chest and foliage that reaches to the ground. In pagan religious beliefs such figures are seen as a symbol of rebirth, representing the cycle of growth each season.


Cartographic evidence

Timothy Pont Reverend Timothy Pont () was a Scottish minister, cartographer and topographer. He was the first to produce a detailed map of Scotland. Pont's maps are among the earliest surviving to show a European country in minute detail, from an actual surve ...
's map of 1583-96 clearly marks the 'Kirk of Dalgairnock'. In 1654 the 'Kirk of Daloairnock' is marked, with the same spelling in 1732, however in 1747 it is not show at all, neither the church or the village. In 1804 'Dalgarno' is shown with two buildings and no 'kirk' designation, 1821 and 1828 gives the same details. A gravestone dated 1694 gives the spelling as 'Dalgarnok'.


St Ninian's Well

Although recorded as St Ninian's Well (NX 8762 9365) on the
Ordnance Survey The Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see Artillery, ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of ...
map it is also known as St Michael's Well, the same dedication as the Dalgarnock Church. A small well, it was filled in 1857, but was re-opened and in 1975 was visible with some stones around it, but overgrown. It seems to have been known locally and provided good cool and wholesome water. The well is now located in undergrowth and hard to see.


Covenanters

Claverhouse Claverhouse is a residential area located on the northern outskirts of Dundee, Scotland with the city centre located 2 miles (3.2 km) from the area. Claverhouse is primarily an affluent residential area and is one of the wealthier areas i ...
known as 'Bloody Clavers' summoned the adult parishioners after the ' Enterkin Raid' near
Drumlanrig Castle Drumlanrig Castle is situated on the Queensberry Estate in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. The category A listed castle is the Dumfriesshire home of the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry. As of September 2023, the castle itself is open to t ...
where in 1684 a short battle took place in the Enterkin Pass' at Glenvalentine when
Covenanter Covenanters were members of a 17th-century Scottish religious and political movement, who supported a Presbyterian Church of Scotland and the primacy of its leaders in religious affairs. It originated in disputes with James VI and his son C ...
s ambushed some of Claverhouse's soldiers with the intention of rescuing prisoners on their way to Edinburgh and some troopers were killed with some soon to be martyred Covenanters were released. 'Cruel Lag', as
Sir Robert Grierson, 1st Baronet Sir Robert Grierson, 1st Baronet of Lag (1655 – 31 December 1733) was a Scottish baronet from Dumfriesshire. He is best remembered as a notorious persecutor of the Covenanters, particularly among the people of Galloway, and is still referred ...
was known, is remembered as a notorious persecutor of the
Covenanter Covenanters were members of a 17th-century Scottish religious and political movement, who supported a Presbyterian Church of Scotland and the primacy of its leaders in religious affairs. It originated in disputes with James VI and his son C ...
s who lived at Lag Tower near
Dunscore Dunscore ( , less commonly ) is a small village which lies northwest of Dumfries on the B729, in Dumfriesshire, in the District Council Region of Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland. The village consists of about 150 people and has a chu ...
and held lands in the parish of Dalgarnock at Nether and Lower Dalgarnock. A story is related of the marriage of the Covenanter John Porter and Agnes Milligan at Dalgarnock that was disturbed by the sudden arrival of 'Cruel Lag' resulting in the John trying to escape across the Nith that was in flood using stilts, however some floating debris knocked him into the fast flowing waters at which point Agnes dived in to try and save him. The couple, it is said, were found drowned but in each other's arms at a site still known as ''Porter's Hole''. Some of the memorials are said to be the work of Robert Paterson,
Sir Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott, 1st Baronet (15 August 1771 – 21 September 1832), was a Scottish novelist, poet and historian. Many of his works remain classics of European literature, European and Scottish literature, notably the novels ''Ivanhoe'' (18 ...
's ‘Old Mortality’ himself. The
Covenanter Covenanters were members of a 17th-century Scottish religious and political movement, who supported a Presbyterian Church of Scotland and the primacy of its leaders in religious affairs. It originated in disputes with James VI and his son C ...
Andrew Ferguson of
Moniaive Moniaive ( 'monny-IVE'; , ''"The Holy Moor"'') is a village in the Parish of Glencairn, in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland. It stands on the Cairn and Dalwhat Waters, north-west of the town of Dumfries. Moniaive has been named best o ...
was buried here, together with many other Fergusons, following his death from disease in a Glasgow prison having been taken prisoner at a conventicle held at Glencairn. The following Dalgarnock local inhabitants were declared "''Outlaws and Fugitives''" in May 1684 : The white marble ten and a half foot Northumbrian Cross, the 'Martyrs Cross', that stands in the Dalgarnock burial ground was erected in 1925 and carved by D J Beattie & Son of Carlisle as a memorial to the 57 (54 men and three women) Nithsdale Covenanters who gave their lives for their faith. A letter book relating to the erection of this cross was kept at Hornel Library,
Kirkcudbright Kirkcudbright ( ; ) is a town at the mouth of the River Dee, Galloway, River Dee in Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, southwest of Castle Douglas and Dalbeattie. A former royal burgh, it is the traditional county town of Kirkcudbrightshire. His ...
. In front the 'Martyrs Cross' is a small stone given by Australian sympathisers and admirers. The names of the martyr's are listed with the places and dates of death where known, taken from King-Hewison's book "Dalgarnoc: its Saints and Heroes" : James Harkness was a farmer and is one of 38 members of his family who are buried here. he led the aforementioned 'Enterkin Raid' when he led a band of 40 Covenanters who rescued seven out of nine fellow Covenanters who were being taken to Edinburgh to be sold into slavery in America. He was captured by Claverhouse but escaped and fled to Ulster, only returning after the 'Killing Times' ended. His brother Thomas was hung at the Grassmarket in Edinburgh and his name will be found on the Martyrs Cross. This is the famous Harkness family who were staunch Covenanters with many stories told of their trials and tribulations. His memorial reads : The Parish of Closeburn and Dalgarnock had to pay "Fines and Losses" of £3,671 18s.


Conventicles

On Sunday 25 July 1925 a Conventicle was held in the Dalgarnock Kikrkyard by the Rev. Charles Rolland Ramsay of Closeburn Church, assisted by other local clergy. The intention was to publicly commemorate the sacrifice of the Nithsdale Covenanters and an appeal was made for funds to provide a memorial for the martyrs and to restore the kirkyard and its graves. On 22 July 1928 a second Conventicle was held to unveil and dedicate the Northumbrian style 'Martyrs Cross', Mr John Cunninghame Montgomerie of Dalmore performing the official unveiling. A large number of people were in attendance as were a large united choir and the regimental band of the 7th Battalion of the Cameronian Territorial Regiment, commanded by Lieut. Colonel Vandaluer. A religious service was held and several clergy of other denominations also participated. A number of descendants of the martyrs were present, including several of the Harkness family. A further conventicle was held in the Dalgarnock burial ground in 2013.


Robert Burns

Burns makes reference to Dalgarnock in the 1795 song "Last May a Braw Wooer" in which the lady singer complains that a man who she was playing hard to get with transferred his affections to her cousin "..up the Gateslack".
Ellisland Farm Ellisland Farm lies about 6.5 mi/10.4 km northwest of Dumfries near the village of Auldgirth, located in the Parish of Dunscore, Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland. The complex is a museum in the farm Robert Burns built, lived in and ...
is only a few miles to the south and Burns saw Dalgarnock as a romantic spot beside the
River Nith The River Nith (; Common Brittonic: ''Nowios'') is a river in south-west Scotland. The Nith rises in the Carsphairn hills of East Ayrshire, between Prickeny Hill and Enoch Hill, east of Dalmellington. For the majority of its course it flows ...
.


Place names

Many derivations of the name Dalgarnock have been proposed, such as 'field with the short hill' from the Scots Gaelic ''dail gearr enoc''. The name has been suggested as relating to the sound of the
River Nith The River Nith (; Common Brittonic: ''Nowios'') is a river in south-west Scotland. The Nith rises in the Carsphairn hills of East Ayrshire, between Prickeny Hill and Enoch Hill, east of Dalmellington. For the majority of its course it flows ...
as 'Holm of the cry' from the Scots Gaelic ''Dail gair''. It has even been suggested that the name derives from the Old Norman French ''De la garnoca'' meaning 'a large enclosure for cattle' as used in the 'High and Low Garnes Parks' behind Nethermains Farm and linking with the ancient cattle fairs or trysts held here. Several farms and habitations carry names relating to Dalgarnock such as Kirkbog, Kirkland, Kirkland Cottage, Dalgarnock Gate, Over and Nether Dalgarnock, etc. The name Dalgarnock is in use as a surname and has been shortened to 'Dalgairns'. A 1694 gravestone records the spelling 'Dalgarnok'.


Archaeology

At nearby Rosebank is located the cropmark of a round barrow, circular in plan with a central pit and surrounded by a 1.9m ditch. Possible Roman road quarry pits have been identified close by towards the east. A stone circle (NX 87718384) stood at near by Templeland with only a single stone now remaining. The
Ordnance Survey The Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see Artillery, ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of ...
map marks the ''Gallows Hill'' (see video) near the Cample Water that lies to the north of the Dalgarnock Barony and may have been the
moot hill A moot hill or ''mons placiti'' (statute hill) is a hill or mound historically used as an assembly or meeting place, as a moot hall is a meeting or assembly building, also traditionally to decide local issues. In Early Middle Ages, early mediev ...
location for the barony court and pit and gallows site.


The Buchanites

Elspeth Buchan was the leader of the
Buchanites The Buchanites were the late 18th-century followers of Elspeth Buchan, a Scottish woman who claimed to be the Woman Clothed with the Sun, one of the figures named in the Book of Revelation. History In 1783, Mrs Buchan, in her late 40s and th ...
, an extreme religious sect who in the 1780s settled for a time at the nearby farm of New Cample where they built a dwelling known locally as 'Buchan Ha', the ruins of which still survive (datum 2017). Circa 1785 all forty-six or so of her followers met at a wooden platform they had built on Templand Hill above Dalgarnock, with the hope of ascending to heaven with their leader ''Luckie Buchan.'' They had shaved their hair leaving a central tuft by which the angels would pull them up to heaven. The platform collapsed and the Buchanites left for a new home at Auchengibbert in
Galloway Galloway ( ; ; ) is a region in southwestern Scotland comprising the counties of Scotland, historic counties of Wigtownshire and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is administered as part of the council areas of Scotland, council area of Dumfries and Gallow ...
shortly after.


The McMilligan of Dalgarnock Spectre

At Tynron can be seen the landmark peak of Tynron Doon the spectre of a headless horseman riding a black horse is said to lurk. The legend is "'' The ghost was that of a young gentleman of the family of M‘Milligan of Dalgarnock, who had gone to offer his addresses to the daughter of the Laird of Tynron Castle. His presence was objected to, however, by one of the young lady’s brothers. Hot words followed, and in high wrath the suitor rode off; but mistaking his way he galloped over the steepest part of the hill and broke his neck, and so, with curses and words of evil on his very lips, his spirit was not allowed to pass untroubled to the realms beyond.''"


See also

*
Barburgh Mill, Closeburn Barburgh Mill is a hamlet composed of an old lint mill, later extended as a woollen mill and associated buildings which lies north of Auldgirth on the A76 on the route to Closeburn, Dumfries and Galloway, Closeburn, in Dumfriesshire, Closeburn Pa ...
*
Hallhill Covenanter Martyrs Memorial The Hallhill Covenanter Martyrs Memorial at Irongray (NX 910797) near Kirkpatrick Irongray Church in the old county of Kirkcudbrightshire, now Dumfries and Galloway, is the site of the deaths and burials of Covenanters Edward Gordon and Alexander M ...


References


Bibliography

*Hewison, James (1935). ''Dalgarnoc : Its Saint and Heroes''. Courier Press. *Watson, R. (1901). ''Closeburn (Dumfrieshire). Reminiscent, Historic & Traditional''. Inglis Ker & Co. *Wright, Margaret (2005). ''Dalgarnock Kirkyard Memorial Inscriptions''. Dumfries and Galloway Family Research Centre.


External links


Video and narration on Lag Tower and the GriersonsVideo and narration of Sir Robert Grierson and Lag TowerVideo and narration of Cruel Lag and the Wigtown MartyrsVideo and narration - Dunscore Churchyard and Sir Robert GriersonVideo footage of the feudal Gallows Hill.The Dalgarnock Tragedy - The Killing Times.11th century Dalgarnock Kirk site and burial groundVideo and narration at Hallhill Covenater Martyrs Memorial.
{{DEFAULTSORT:Dalgarnock Village, Church and Parish Robert Burns Nithsdale Districts of Scotland Parishes in Dumfries and Galloway Christianity in medieval Scotland History of Dumfriesshire 13th century in Scotland Dumfriesshire