
DAKS is a British luxury
fashion house
Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction, and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by diverse cultures and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion design ...
, founded in 1894 by Simeon Simpson in
London
London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...
. It is one of only 15 firms (out of 820) to have held
royal warrants from three members of the
Royal Family
A royal family is the immediate family of monarchs and sometimes their extended family.
The term imperial family appropriately describes the family of an emperor or empress, and the term papal family describes the family of a pope, while th ...
. Officially granted to DAKS' Simpson Piccadilly store in 1956 was the royal warrant of
Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh
Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh (born Prince Philip of Greece and Denmark, later Philip Mountbatten; 10 June 19219 April 2021), was the husband of Queen Elizabeth II. As such, he was the consort of the British monarch from h ...
, followed by that of
the Queen in 1962 and
Charles, Prince of Wales
Charles III (Charles Philip Arthur George; born 14 November 1948) is King of the United Kingdom and the 14 other Commonwealth realms.
Charles was born at Buckingham Palace during the reign of his maternal grandfather, King George VI, a ...
in 1982.
Worldwide, DAKS is exported to 30 countries and sold in over 2,000 speciality shops, major stores and concessions. Since 1991 the company is owned by
Sankyo Seiko Co. Limited.
Name DAKS
The name ''DAKS'' was introduced in 1935 for Simpson's new line of self-supporting trouser, and later expanded to suits.
While the company always used
all caps
In typography, text or font in all caps (short for "all capitals") contains capital letters without any lowercase letters. For example: All-caps text can be seen in legal documents, advertisements, newspaper headlines, and the titles on book co ...
for its
trade mark
A trademark (also written trade mark or trade-mark) is a form of intellectual property that consists of a word, phrase, symbol, design, or a combination that identifies a product or service from a particular source and distinguishes it from oth ...
name, others often wrote it ''Daks''. Various stories for the origin of the name exist.
Ashley Havinden, who worked on the brand's
typeface
A typeface (or font family) is a design of Letter (alphabet), letters, Numerical digit, numbers and other symbols, to be used in printing or for electronic display. Most typefaces include variations in size (e.g., 24 point), weight (e.g., light, ...
, recalled in 1955 that the original name proposed was "Vacs", from
vacation
A vacation (American English) or holiday (British English) is either a leave of absence from a regular job or school or an instance of leisure travel away from home. People often take a vacation during specific holiday observances or for sp ...
wear; the V was changed to D as it sounded stronger, and the C to K because it looked stronger. David Wainwright's 1996 official history says DAKS is a combination of the initials of Alexander Simpson and an initial and final letter of his business associate Dudley Beck, altered from DABS.
[ The company website links the brand to the ]Australian English
Australian English (AusE, AusEng, AuE, AuEng, en-AU) is the set of variety (linguistics), varieties of the English language native to Australia. It is the country's common language and ''de facto'' national language. While Australia has no of ...
slang "daks", meaning trousers or underpants, widely interpreted as a blend of "dad slacks", an association Wainwright ascribes to marketer Bill Crawford.[
]
History
Early years – S Simpson
In 1894 Simeon Simpson, aged 16, rented a room on Middlesex Street, East London
East London is the part of London, England, east of the ancient City of London and north of the River Thames as it begins to widen. East London developed as London Docklands, London's docklands and the primary industrial centre. The expansion of ...
, with the intention of setting up a business in bespoke tailoring
Bespoke tailoring () or custom tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor.
Bespoke garments are completely unique and created without the use of a pre-existing pattern, while made to measure uses a standard-s ...
, focused on high standard craftsmanship. Several innovations of technology at the time were being introduced with machinery
A machine is a physical system that uses power to apply forces and control movement to perform an action. The term is commonly applied to artificial devices, such as those employing engines or motors, but also to natural biological macromolec ...
capable of making buttonholes and electric powered saws to cut many layers of fabric at once; Simpson saw the potential for such equipment for producing garments in higher quantities while still upholding quality tailoring techniques, aiming to improve ready-to-wear
Ready-to-wear (RTW)also called ''prêt-à-porter'', or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual useis the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a partic ...
standards as no male or female professionals considered ready-to-wear to be suitable attire at the time. Simpson's methods proved successful in speeding up the process and he set up several factories within London, which soon required expansion in its early years through popularity of the label.[
Alexander Simpson, his second son, joined the business aged 15 in 1917, and by 1929 had planned and opened a larger factory in Stoke Newington where production could be centralised, this again had to be enlarged a few years later.][
]
20th century – DAKS and Simpsons Piccadilly
With the continued growth of the company Alexander Simpson began to take more control of the business, and in 1935 DAKS tailored the first self-supporting trouser. The trousers were available in many colours and fabrics that weren't generally associated with menswear. Soon after a DAKS womenswear line was released, using the patented waistband for skirting.[
At the turn of the 21st century when the company was acquired by Japanese group Sankyo Seiko Co. Limited in 1991, the S Simpson name was dropped and DAKS became the new brand name.
The ease-of-wear of the trousers and how they allowed movement, as intended from Simpson's invention, led to DAKS being popular in sporting wear: kitting tennis, golf, motor racing and football players, and even for the British Olympic team in 1960.] The company was commissioned by the British Government at the time of the Second World War
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
to produce military uniform
A uniform is a variety of costume worn by members of an organization while usually participating in that organization's activity. Modern uniforms are most often worn by armed forces and paramilitary organizations such as police, emergency serv ...
s for officers in the Army, Navy, Royal Air Force and Women's Services. Despite the semi-destruction of the Stoke Newington factory due to bomb damage and loss of electricity[ seven million garments were made for the military.][
After the war, DAKS started selling to the public again. Queues of people would form along Piccadilly. Simpson tailors would measure them in the line, and present suitable pairs of trousers to them when they arrived in the Simpsons of Piccadilly store.][
]
Simpsons of Piccadilly
Simeon Simpson's son Alexander Simpson founded Simpsons of Piccadilly. The new building was designed by architect Joseph Emberton as a new and revolutionary retail establishment,[ the shop front windows exhibited the first curved glass display in Great Britain and the largest in the world at the time,][ these were designed so that no reflection would be cast to obscure the displays inside. The store opened in April 1936 by Sir Malcolm Campbell, the world-famous motor-racing driver.][ and was known for its visual merchandising and window displays by ]László Moholy-Nagy
László Moholy-Nagy (; ; born László Weisz; July 20, 1895 – November 24, 1946) was a Kingdom of Hungary, Hungarian painter and photographer as well as a professor in the Bauhaus school. He was highly influenced by Constructivism (art), con ...
, a former director from the Bauhaus school. Alexander Simpson died the following year of leukaemia
Leukemia ( also spelled leukaemia; pronounced ) is a group of blood cancers that usually begin in the bone marrow and produce high numbers of abnormal blood cells. These blood cells are not fully developed and are called ''blasts'' or '' ...
aged just 34.[
Simpsons continued to trade in the Simpsons Piccadilly building for several decades more, helping officers and civilians during ]World War II
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
,[ and in later years branched out to sell other clothing by designer labels such as ]Armani
Giorgio Armani S.p.A. (), commonly known as Armani, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in Milan by Giorgio Armani which designs, manufactures, distributes and retails haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, accessories, and ...
and Christian Dior
Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer and founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Dior, Christian Dior SE. His fashion house is known all around the world, having gained promi ...
[ Since 1999 Simpsons stopped trading at the Piccadilly store and moved the renamed DAKS to a new ]flagship
A flagship is a vessel used by the commanding officer of a group of navy, naval ships, characteristically a flag officer entitled by custom to fly a distinguishing flag. Used more loosely, it is the lead ship in a fleet of vessels, typically ...
store and London offices on Old Bond Street
Old or OLD may refer to:
Places
*Old, Baranya, Hungary
*Old, Northamptonshire, England
* Old Street station, a railway and tube station in London (station code OLD)
*OLD, IATA code for Old Town Municipal Airport and Seaplane Base, Old Town, M ...
, whilst moving to another new store on Jermyn Street
Jermyn Street is a One-way traffic, one-way street in the St James's area of the City of Westminster in London, England. It is to the south of, parallel, and adjacent to Piccadilly. Jermyn Street is known as a street for gentlemen's-clothing r ...
which was refurbished in 2012 to focus on selling classic menswear. The original store was sold to bookseller Waterstone's
Waterstones Booksellers Limited, trading as Waterstones (formerly Waterstone's), is a British bookselling, book retailer based in London, England, owned by the American investment group Elliott Investment Management. It operates 311 shops, ma ...
and is now their flagship store.[ Retrieved 27 December 2012]
Royal warrants and house check
HRH The Duke of Edinburgh visited the company's factory at Strutherhill in Larkhall
Larkhall (, ) is a town in South Lanarkshire, Scotland, around southeast of Glasgow. It is twinned with Seclin in northern France.
Larkhall sits on high ground between the River Clyde to the East and the Avon Water to the West. Larkhall ...
, Scotland
Scotland is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It contains nearly one-third of the United Kingdom's land area, consisting of the northern part of the island of Great Britain and more than 790 adjac ...
(now demolished) in recognition of its role in exporting goods worldwide.[
Larkhall was built in 1948 to Simpson's specifications and was opened by ]Harold Wilson
James Harold Wilson, Baron Wilson of Rievaulx (11 March 1916 – 23 May 1995) was a British statesman and Labour Party (UK), Labour Party politician who twice served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, from 1964 to 1970 and again from 197 ...
.[Number 10](_blank)
Retrieved 27 December 2012 The factory since closed in the early 2000s. DAKS was granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment
Royal warrants of appointment have been issued for centuries to tradespeople who supply goods or services to a royal court or certain royal personages. The royal warrant enables the supplier to advertise the fact that they supply to the issuer of t ...
by HRH The Duke of Edinburgh in 1956. Her Majesty The Queen and HRH The Prince of Wales granted the company with royal warrants in 1962 and 1982 respectively.
The company developed a house check in 1976 by Johnny Mengers, the Group managing director of the time and last family chairman.[Telegraph](_blank)
Retrieved 27 December 2012
See also
* Savile Row tailoring
References
External links
*
{{British Royal Warrant holders
Clothing companies established in 1894
Youth culture in the United Kingdom
British brands
High fashion brands
Clothing brands of the United Kingdom
British royal warrant holders