Cristina Castagna

Cristina "El Grio" Castagna (23 December 1977 – 18 July 2009) was an Italian mountaineer and the first Italian woman to climb Makalu. She died in 2009 on Broad Peak, after reaching the summit.

Early life

Castagna was born near San Quirico di Valdagno, near Vicenza.Massimo Fontana, Cristina Castagna, L'acchiappasogni, CAI Valdagno e CAI Recoaro Terme
Youngest of four children,El Grio riposa sul Karakorum Valdagno piange Cristina
/ref> during her childhood, she began discovering mountains with her father and her uncle. After a technical degree she became a nurse in the ER hospital in Vicenza, a job she kept for all her life.

During her childhood, Castagna was very active, so her father gave her the nickname "Grio" (Cricket). She liked the nickname so much she kept it in her adult life ("El Grio") often in conjunction with "acchiappasogni" (dreamcatcher). She was also an avid reader and writer. After she became the first Italian woman to climb Makalu,News.html First italian woman on Makalu
/ref> she began to appear on Italian national news and newspapers. Nevertheless, she kept working as a nurse, climbing in her spare time, and initially at her own expense.

After a brief interest in volleyball, in her twenties she began climbing and ski mountaineering with Club Alpino Italiano (CAI). Although she had several sponsors, and was a member of the Salewa AlpineXtrem team,Salewa note about Cristina Castagna death
/ref> she never became a fully professional climber by status. She also worked as a nurse with the Alpini, and was enrolled with the National Alpini Association and Club Alpino Italiano.Cai Valdagno

Climbing achievements

Castagna was the first Italian woman to climb Makalu and at the time of her death, remained the youngest Italian woman to climb an eight-thousander (Shishapangma) at 27 years. In 2003, during an expedition headed by Tarcisio Bellò along with Mario Vielmo], she met Giampaolo Casarotto, who would later be her climbing partner for many expeditions. The Mount Everest attempt ended at

In 2004 she climbed again with Vielmo, this time to the summit of Shishapangma, along with Michele Fait. In 2005 she climbed Gasherbrum II, alongside Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner In 2006 she attempted to climb Lhotse, again with nd Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Confortola and Giampaolo Corona. However, cold weather and frostbite drove her back at . In 2008 came the successful Makalu attempt, with Casarotto. At she was struck by the cold but met Waldemar Nicleviczand Irivan Burda who helped her. On 11 May she became the first Italian woman to reach the summit of Makalu, but suffered seriously frostbitten feet that would leave her in hospital for weeks.

In her last trip, she planned to climb both Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I along with Casarotto, but died during the descent after reaching the summit of Broad Peak. The Italian press agency Agenzia Nazionale Stampa Associata, Ansa mentioned her death in the prominent events of 2009 for Italy.Ansa italian Photostory for 2009
/ref>

Broad Peak incident

Castagna and Giampaolo Casarotto planned to climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I in their 2009 expedition. Before leaving home, in a note later found by relatives, Castagna asked to be left on the mountains in case of severe accident.

The same day Fabrizio Zangrilli, Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag from the Dynafit Gore-Tex-Team were climbing the mountain and spent a few stops with the Italian duo. On 18 July at 3 pm local time, Castagna and Casarotto reached the summit, despite severe weather conditions that had slowed the two climbers for nearly ten hours. During the descent, at , Castagna slipped down, gaining momentum and stopping several metres below in a crevasse. Giampaolo Casarotto eventually managed to reach and try to rescue her, to no avail. Her body is at , making recovery difficult for helicopters. The family, following her last will, decided to not attempt a recovery, thus avoiding risking other mountaineers' and porters' lives.

Castagna was remembered during an Italian Senate meeting by Lega Nord senators Paolo Franco and Gianvittore Vaccari.Commemorazione Cristina Castagna from Paolo Franco Site
A month after Castagna's death, following an Italian expedition in Hindu Kush, Tarcisio Bellò solo-climbed an unnamed peak and named it after her.Pakistan, una cima per la Castagna
/ref>

Notable climbs

* Aconcagua, Argentina, 2003
* Shishapangma, Tibet, 2004, at 27 the youngest Italian woman to successfully climb an Eight thousander
* Gasherbrum II, Pakistan-China, 2005
* Lhotse, Nepal, 2006 (did not reach summit)
* Dhaulagiri, Nepal, 2007
* Makalu, Nepal-Tibet, 2008, first Italian woman to climb Makalu
* Broad Peak, Pakistan-China, 2009 (died during descent)

Humanitarian work

In 1999 Castagna served as a nurse in Valona during Italian government humanitarian mission " Missione Arcobaleno" in Albania.Italian Alpine Club page on Cristina
An eye hospital service, specialized in early cataract treatment, has since been created in Alepe, Ivory Coast to remember Castagna.Cristina Castagna Eye hospital service

Places and routes

*Cristina Castagna peak, Hindu Kush, first ascent by Tarcisio Bellò, August 10, 2009
*Cristina Castagna eye service, Alepè, Ivory Coast, an eye hospital.
*Cristina Castagna mountaineering Center, Gothulti, Pakistan, in progress.
*Via Fragile Esistenza (route in memory of Castagna),Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Muroduro
Via Fragile Esistenza, topos by Rampegoni
/ref> Campanile di Scagina, Piccole Dolomiti, Veneto, Italy. By Mario Brighente, Simone Gianesin, Bottegal, Gino Dal Cero, 2009

Books

On 1, July 2010 CAI Valdagno and Recoaro Terme sections published a biography by Massimo Fontana, on Castagna's life and achievements.

See also

*Nives Meroi
*Edurne Pasaban
*Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
*Iñaki Ochoa de Olza
*Broad Peak

References

External links

Cristina Castagna official pagethe ill-fated summit attempt
and Reinhold Messner's view on the accident
Veneti in the world: Amor di montagna, quando l'alpinismo diventa poesia (from

ANA website
(National Alpini Association)
La nueva espana interviews Rosa Fernández, on Broad Peek at the moment of the accident

La Stampa, Alberto Papuzzi: the last love words


* ttp://issuu.com/sportivissimo/docs/sportivissimo_luglio_agosto/5 Sportivissimo, Luigi Centorno on Cristina Castagnabr>Bepi Magrin on Cristina Castagna

{{DEFAULTSORT:Castagna, Cristina
1977 births
2009 deaths
Italian mountain climbers
Mountaineering deaths
Sport deaths in Pakistan
People from the Province of Vicenza
Deaths on Broad Peak