A cordwainer () is a

shoemaker Shoemaking is the process of making footwear. Originally, shoes were made one at a time by hand, often by groups of shoemakers, or '' cordwainers'' (sometimes misidentified as cobblers, who repair shoes rather than make them). In the 18th cen ...

who makes new shoes from new leather. The cordwainer's trade can be contrasted with the cobbler's trade, according to a tradition in Britain that restricted cobblers to repairing shoes. This

usage The usage of a language is the ways in which its written and spoken variations are routinely employed by its speakers; that is, it refers to "the collective habits of a language's native speakers", as opposed to idealized models of how a languag ...

distinction is not universally observed, as the word ''cobbler'' is widely used for tradespersons who make or repair shoes. The

Oxford English Dictionary The ''Oxford English Dictionary'' (''OED'') is the principal historical dictionary of the English language, published by Oxford University Press (OUP), a University of Oxford publishing house. The dictionary, which published its first editio ...

says that the word ''cordwainer'' is archaic, "still used in the names of guilds, for example, ''the Cordwainers' Company''"; but its definition of ''cobbler'' mentions only mending, reflecting the older distinction. Play 14 of the

Chester Mystery Plays The Chester Mystery Plays is a play cycle, cycle of mystery plays originating in the city of Chester, England and dating back to at least the early part of the 15th century. Origin and history Biblical dramas were being performed in Latin acr ...

was presented by the

guild A guild ( ) is an association of artisans and merchants who oversee the practice of their craft/trade in a particular territory. The earliest types of guild formed as organizations of tradespeople belonging to a professional association. They so ...

of ''corvisors'', known to mean shoemakers.This glossary
defines corvisor or corvysor as shoemaker

Etymology

The term ''cordwainer'' entered English as ''cordewaner(e)'', from the Anglo-Norman ''cordewaner'' (from

Old French Old French (, , ; ) was the language spoken in most of the northern half of France approximately between the late 8th cordovan, the leather historically produced in Moorish Córdoba, Spain">Shell cordovan">cordovan, the leather historically produced in Moorish Córdoba, Spain in the Middle Ages, as well as, more narrowly, a shoemaker. The earliest attestation in English is a reference to "Randolf se cordewan[ere]", ''ca.'' 1100. According to the ''OED'', the term is now considered obsolete except where it persists in the name of a trade-guild or company, or where otherwise employed by trade unions.

History

British tradition distinguishes the terms ''cordwainer'' and ''cobbler'', restricting cobblers to repairing shoes. In this usage, a ''cordwainer'' is someone who makes new shoes using new leather, whereas a ''cobbler'' is someone who repairs shoes. Medieval cordwainers used cordovan leather for the highest-quality shoes, but cordwainers also used domestically produced leathers and were not solely producers of luxury footwear.

British Isles

In the historic London guild system, the cobblers and cordwainers formed separate guilds, and the cobblers were forbidden by the Mayor of London in 1395 from working in new leather, and cordwainers similarly forbidden to meddle with old shoes. Historically, cobblers also made shoes, but only using old leather recovered from discarded or repaired shoes. Today, many makers of

bespoke ''Bespoke'' () describes anything commissioned to a particular specification, altered or tailored to the customs, tastes, or usage of an individual purchaser. In contemporary usage, ''bespoke'' has become a general marketing and branding concep ...

shoes will also repair their own work, but shoe repairers are not normally in a position to manufacture new footwear. In

London London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...

, the

of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers historically controlled the occupation of cordwainer. Granted a

royal charter A royal charter is a formal grant issued by a monarch under royal prerogative as letters patent. Historically, they have been used to promulgate public laws, the most famous example being the English Magna Carta (great charter) of 1215, but ...

of incorporation in 1439, the Guild had received its first ordinance in 1272. Historically, most of London's cordwainers lived and worked in the ward of the

City of London The City of London, also known as ''the City'', is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county and Districts of England, local government district with City status in the United Kingdom, city status in England. It is the Old town, his ...

named Cordwainer. Until 2000 a Cordwainers' Technical College existed in London. For over a hundred years, the college had been recognised as one of the world's leading establishments for training shoemakers and leather workers. It produced some of the leading

fashion design Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction, and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by diverse cultures and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion design ...

ers, including

Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo Yeang Keat (born 15 November 1948) is a Malaysian fashion designer based in the United Kingdom. He co-founded Jimmy Choo Ltd, which became known for its handmade women's shoes. Early life Choo was born in 1948 in the Crown Colony ...

(born 1948) and Patrick Cox (born 1963). In 2000 Cordwainers' College was absorbed into the

London College of Fashion The London College of Fashion is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London, a public art university in London, England. The college offers undergraduate and postgraduate study, short courses, study-abroad courses and business t ...

, the shoe-design and accessories departments of which have become "Cordwainers at London College of Fashion". In Scotland, in 1722, the cordwainers petitioned "to be incorporated and separated from the shoe-makers or those who make single-soled shoes".

United States

Settlers who sailed to Virginia in 1607 to settle in Jamestown included cordwainers. By 1616 the secretary of Virginia reported that the leather- and shoe-trades were flourishing. Christopher Nelme, of England, was the earliest recorded named shoemaker in the American colonies; he sailed to Virginia from

Bristol Bristol () is a City status in the United Kingdom, cathedral city, unitary authority area and ceremonial county in South West England, the most populous city in the region. Built around the River Avon, Bristol, River Avon, it is bordered by t ...

in 1619. In 1620 the Pilgrims landed in Massachusetts near the site of modern Provincetown. Nine years later, in 1629, the first shoemakers arrived, bringing their skills with them. In 1984 a group of shoemakers and historians founded the Honourable Cordwainers' Company as a modern guild; they drew up its charter in the following year. In 1987 the Company "incorporated as a non-profit, tax-exempt educational organization in the state of Virginia, the home of America's first shoemakers", and was granted official status through recognition by The Master of The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, London, England.

Canada

The early settlers of Canada also included cordwainers. On 14 June 1749, the newly appointed Lieutenant Governor of

Nova Scotia Nova Scotia is a Provinces and territories of Canada, province of Canada, located on its east coast. It is one of the three Maritime Canada, Maritime provinces and Population of Canada by province and territory, most populous province in Atlan ...

, Edward Cornwallis, arrived off Chebucto Head, Nova Scotia in the sloop-of-war HMS ''Sphinx'' with the objective of establishing the settlement now called Halifax. By 27 June, thirteen transport-ships following the ''Sphinx'' reached the harbour with the initial 2,576 British settlers – among them nineteen cordwainers.

References