Christopher Shawe
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Christopher Shawe or Shaw (died 1618) was an English embroiderer and textile artist who worked on
masque The masque was a form of festive courtly entertainment that flourished in 16th- and early 17th-century Europe, though it was developed earlier in Italy, in forms including the intermedio (a public version of the masque was the pageant). A mas ...
costume for
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 â€“ 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I. She was List of Scottish royal consorts, Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and List of English royal consorts, Queen of Engl ...
. He was a member of the Worshipful Company of Broderers.


Career

In September 1589, Shawe married Isobel Buttes, originally from
Streatham Streatham ( ) is a district in south London, England. Centred south of Charing Cross, it lies mostly within the London Borough of Lambeth, with some parts extending into the neighbouring London Borough of Wandsworth. Streatham was in Surrey ...
, at St Benet's, Paul's Wharf, the church used by the
College of Arms The College of Arms, or Heralds' College, is a royal corporation consisting of professional Officer of Arms, officers of arms, with jurisdiction over England, Wales, Northern Ireland and some Commonwealth realms. The heralds are appointed by the ...
. Shawe worked on masque costume in December 1603 for the female dancers in '' The Vision of the Twelve Goddesses'', and presumably other masques of the season. Some of the costume was recycled from the wardrobe of
Elizabeth I Elizabeth I (7 September 153324 March 1603) was List of English monarchs, Queen of England and List of Irish monarchs, Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death in 1603. She was the last and longest reigning monarch of the House of Tudo ...
. He also worked on other "parcels" (orders) of embroidery for Anne of Denmark supplied to Audrey Walsingham. "Master Shawe" was paid £106-7s for work on costumes for '' The Masque of Beauty'' in January 1608. He worked on costumes for the masque '' Tethys' Festival'' in 1610 and his bill detailing his work survives. He embroidered cobweb silver lawn with veins of silver and sea green silk, sewed motifs with silver and gold oes, and embroidered a pair of sea green satin dancing shoes. At least one of the costumes he worked on features in an inventory of Anne of Denmark's wardrobe. His bill of 5 June 1610 included:
Item, for inbrathring vij yards of Copwede lane obweb lanewithe vaines of scilver and segrene and scilver oose and Carn ion scilke, for working scilver and scilke vij. li £7br />Item, for inbrawthering xxviij yards of tiffenne vere riche with oose goold, for working, scilke and goold oose xviij. li. £18br>Item, for inbrawthering a peare of shues of segrene satten ea green satinvere riche, for workeng, goold and scilke iij. li. £3/blockquote> The costume and shoes were for Anne of Denmark herself, who played the
Titan Titan most often refers to: * Titan (moon), the largest moon of Saturn * Titans, a race of deities in Greek mythology Titan or Titans may also refer to: Arts and entertainment Fictional entities Fictional locations * Titan in fiction, fictiona ...
sea goddess Tethys with her ladies as rivers personified. A drawing by
Inigo Jones Inigo Jones (15 July 1573 – 21 June 1652) was an English architect who was the first significant Architecture of England, architect in England in the early modern era and the first to employ Vitruvius, Vitruvian rules of proportion and symmet ...
of a costume for Tethys or a nymph with "shoes of satin, richly imbrodered" survives. The seven yards of embroidered cobweb lawn were probably for the queen's veil. Cobweb lawn and net lawn were fine
linen Linen () is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is very strong and absorbent, and it dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. Lin ...
s suitable for
veil A veil is an article of clothing or hanging cloth that is intended to cover some part of the human head, head or face, or an object of some significance. Veiling has a long history in European, Asian, and African societies. The practice has be ...
s. Male performers in Jonson's '' Masque of Hymen'' wore crowns with veils of carnation and silver net lawn. Anne of Denmark owned a number of mantles, made of the lightweight fabrics tiffany,
tinsel Tinsel is a type of decorative material that mimics the effect of ice, consisting of thin strips of sparkling material attached to a thread. When in long narrow strips not attached to thread, it is called "lametta", and emulates icicles. It was o ...
, and cobweb lawn. During the masque Tethys gave Prince Henry an embroidered scarf, figuratively or literally representing Britain, a "zone of love and amity". It is not clear if Shawe embroidered this prop, and some 19th-century writers including Agnes Strickland,
Charlotte Mary Yonge Charlotte Mary Yonge (11 August 1823 – 24 March 1901) was an English novelist, who wrote in the service of the church. Her abundant books helped to spread the influence of the Oxford Movement and showed her keen interest in matters of public h ...
, and Robert Folkestone Williams assumed that Anne of Denmark had made it herself. Shawe was not paid in full and petitioned for payment for work on the masque and other embroidery for the queen. Shawe died on 31 July 1618 and was buried at St Margaret's Chipstead, where an inscription records him as a Citizen of London and "Imbrodorer". The names of other court embroiderers of this period are known, including James Freeland, the queen's embroiderer, Edmund Palmer, described as embroiderer to the queen and Prince Henry, and John Parr (died 1607), John Shepley, and William Broderick (died 1620), were embroiderers to King James. They employed numbers of workmen. Ribbons and passementerie were provided by silkmen, including Benjamin Henshawe.


Charitable bequests

By his will of 5 October 1617 he bequeathed an annuity of 20 shillings from his Chipstead property, Sturrock Crofts, and his tenement in London, the Barge in St Benets, administered by the London Embroiderer's Company, to be given in bread to the poor of the parish of Chipstead, and £3 to the schoolmaster at
Market Harborough Market Harborough is a market town in the Harborough District, Harborough district of Leicestershire, England, close to the border with Northamptonshire. The population was 24,779 at the United Kingdom census, 2021, 2021 census. It is the ad ...
. He left 20 shillings yearly for the churchwardens of St Benets to give to the poor on 5 November in memory of the discovery of the
Gunpowder Plot The Gunpowder Plot of 1605, in earlier centuries often called the Gunpowder Treason Plot or the Jesuit Treason, was an unsuccessful attempted regicide against James VI and I, King James VI of Scotland and I of England by a group of English ...
.


Family and Christopher Shawe junior

He had two daughters and three sons, including Christopher Shawe, younger, who worked with him as an embroiderer for Anne of Denmark and had a house in St Benets at "Audlyn Hill", now Addle Hill. The king's embroiderer William Brotherick lived next door, conveniently sited for the royal Great Wardrobe. The younger Shawe's widow and executrix, Margaret Shawe, petitioned William Juxon and other officials for payment of £439-12s after his death. She mentioned that she had three young children at the time of Christopher Shawe's death. The petitions refer to him as Christopher Shawe, younger, servant of Anne of Denmark. While adjudicating a similar petition, Juxon consulted Zachary Bethell's account book of "Queen Anne's Robes".Thomas A. Mason, ''Serving God and Mammon: William Juxon, 1582-1663, Bishop of London'' (University of Delaware Press, 1985), p. 93.


References


External links


Website of the Worshipful Company of Broderers
{{DEFAULTSORT:Shawe, Christopher 1618 deaths Embroiderers 17th-century English artists Household of Anne of Denmark People from Market Harborough 17th-century textile artists