Chogolisa ( derived from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal

mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually higher t ...

located in the

Karakoram The Karakoram () is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range is withi ...

range within the

Gilgit-Baltistan Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative units of Pakistan, administrative territory and consists of the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region, which has b ...

region of Pakistan. It is situated near the

Baltoro Glacier The Baltoro Glacier (; ) is a glacier located in the Shigar District of the Gilgit-Baltistan region in Pakistan. It stretches for in length. It is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. It is home to some of the world’s high ...

in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of 7,665 meters (25,148 feet). On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at 7,654 meters in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892. In 1909, a party led by

Duke of the Abruzzi Duke is a male title either of a monarch ruling over a duchy, or of a member of royalty, or nobility. As rulers, dukes are ranked below emperors, kings, grand princes, grand dukes, and above sovereign princes. As royalty or nobility, they are ...

reached from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and

Somervell Somervell may refer to: People * Alexander Somervell (1796-1854), Texan soldier who led the Somervell Expedition into Mexico * Arthur Somervell (1863–1937), British composer * Brehon B. Somervell (1892–1955), American general * D. C. Somer ...

reached on the

1922 British Mount Everest expedition The 1922 British Mount Everest expedition was the first mountaineering expedition with the express aim of making the first ascent of Mount Everest. It was also the first expedition that used bottled oxygen while climbing Everest. The attempt wa ...

. Austrian mountaineers

Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl (21 September 1924 – 27 June 1957) was an Austrian mountaineer. His accomplishments include the first ascents of Nanga Parbat in 1953 and Broad Peak in 1957. Buhl is the father of Austrian-German writer, publisher, and freelan ...

and

Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. In 2013, ...

attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted

Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...

behind

Marcus Schmuck Marcus Schmuck (18 April 1925 – 21 August 2005) was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Buhl, to climb the world's 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak (8,047& ...

and

Fritz Wintersteller Fritz Wintersteller (21 October 1927 – 15 September 2018) was an Austrian climber who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, and Marcus Schmuck in 1957. Although never a professional climber, he climbe ...

a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big

cornice In architecture, a cornice (from the Italian ''cornice'' meaning "ledge") is generally any horizontal decorative Moulding (decorative), moulding that crowns a building or furniture element—for example, the cornice over a door or window, ar ...

and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found. On August 4, 1958, a

Japan Japan is an island country in East Asia. Located in the Pacific Ocean off the northeast coast of the Asia, Asian mainland, it is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan and extends from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north to the East China Sea ...

ese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club

Kyoto University , or , is a National university, national research university in Kyoto, Japan. Founded in 1897, it is one of the former Imperial Universities and the second oldest university in Japan. The university has ten undergraduate faculties, eighteen gra ...

led by Takeo Kuwabara ( 桑原武夫) made the

first ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...

of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top."Japanese Conquer Mountain", ''The New York Times'', August 20, 1958, p. 7 The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an

Austria Austria, formally the Republic of Austria, is a landlocked country in Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine Federal states of Austria, states, of which the capital Vienna is the List of largest cities in Aust ...

n expedition led by

Eduard Koblmueller Eduard "Edi" Koblmueller (German: Koblmüller) (10 April 1946 – 16 April 2015) was an Austrian mountaineer. Life Koblmueller was born in Linz, Austria. He studied at the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna with a degree i ...

. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

References

External links

Chogolisa on PeakwareChogolisa das Grab Hermann Buhls auf BroadPeak.at (German Language)Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth
Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram {{GilgitBaltistan-geo-stub

See also

References

External links