Chogolisa ( ur, from ''Chogo Ling Sa''; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal

mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually higher t ...

in the

Karakoram The Karakoram is a mountain range in Kashmir region spanning the borders of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwest extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under t ...

range in the

Gilgit-Baltistan Gilgit-Baltistan (; ), formerly known as the Northern Areas, is a region administered by Pakistan as an administrative units of Pakistan, administrative territory, and constituting the northern portion of the larger Kashmir region which has ...

region of

Pakistan Pakistan ( ur, ), officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan ( ur, , label=none), is a country in South Asia. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of almost 24 ...

. It lies near the

Baltoro Glacier __NOTOC__ The Baltoro Glacier ( zh, 巴爾托洛冰川, ), at in length, is one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions.The Fedchenko Glacier in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan is 77 km long, the Siachen Glacier which lies sou ...

in the Concordia region, which is home to some of the highest peaks in the world. Chogolisa has several peaks: the highest, on the southwest face (Chogolisa I), rises to ; the second-highest at 7,654 metres on the northeast side (Chogolisa II) was named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892. In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record. Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and

Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. Career ...

attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted

Broad Peak Broad Peak ( ur, ) is a mountain in the Karakoram on the border of Pakistan and China, the twelfth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It was first ascended in June 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger ...

behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27 a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big

cornice In architecture, a cornice (from the Italian ''cornice'' meaning "ledge") is generally any horizontal decorative moulding that crowns a building or furniture element—for example, the cornice over a door or window, around the top edge of a ...

and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found. On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club

Kyoto University , mottoeng = Freedom of academic culture , established = , type = Public (National) , endowment = ¥ 316 billion (2.4 billion USD) , faculty = 3,480 (Teaching Staff) , administrative_staff = 3,978 (Total Staff) , students = 22 ...

led by Takeo Kuwabara ( 桑原武夫) made the

first ascent In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they e ...

of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top. "Japanese Conquer Mountain", ''The New York Times'', August 20, 1958, p. 7 The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an

Austria Austria, , bar, Östareich officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in the southern part of Central Europe, lying in the Eastern Alps. It is a federation of nine states, one of which is the capital, Vienna, the most populous ...

n expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

References

External links

Chogolisa on PeakwareChogolisa das Grab Hermann Buhls auf BroadPeak.at (German Language)Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth
{{Authority control Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan Seven-thousanders of the Karakoram

See also

References

External links